M3P - Impacts to Cornering & Handling with Smaller & Narrower Wheels

[M3Papi]

Hello,

I’ve seen a lot of posts discussing the improvements in 0-60 times, range, noise, ride softness, and protection against hazards with smaller wheels.

I need to switch to Ultra High Performance A/S tires once my M3P is delivered since we see below freezing temps in Delaware in the winter.

I decided to get 18x8.5s with 235x45 Pilot Sport AS 4s but I’m debating if I should run a setup with wider tires and larger wheels.

I specifically want to know:

(1) What degradation did you see in cornering and overall handling after switching to smaller diameter, narrower wheels on the M3P?

(2) If you went with wider wheels and tires what improvements did you see in cornering and handling?

(3) Did the improvements in range, 0-60, and ride comfort outweighs the reductions in cornering and handling? Or vice versa if you opted for a setup that didn’t favor range and comfort.

All this is assuming that smaller and narrower wheels do in fact reduce cornering and overall handling.

Like I said , I pulled the trigger on 18x8.5s with 235x45 tires recently and I’m debating if I should cancel my order because I enjoy sportier handling more than I want efficiency and comfort. I’m thinking about getting 19 or 20s with wider wheels and tires.

 

[Sophias_dad]

Just FYI, unless its changed, the 18" tesla wheels won't fit over P'erformance brakes. Maybe the 2020 year and beyond does.

 

[tm1v2]

@M3Papi It's all about the tire. The tire you pick matters way more for grip and responsiveness than 18" vs 19" vs 20". The tire also much matters more than any small change in width.

The OEM PZ4 tires were pretty disappointing. I wanted a bit more grip than the car had stock, and I got it when I switched to 18" with a better tire, even though I switched to narrower wheels. If you're feeling the same way with the stock tires don't fret about wheel size, it's the tire that's the problem and the solution.

At 1k miles I switched my 2021 M3P from the stock 20x9" wheels with 235/35R20 Pirelli PZ4, to 18x8.5" wheels with 245/45R18 Bridgestone Potenza Sport. Grip increased in the dry and wet. It was obvious from seat of the pants, not even close. No loss of responsiveness at all that I could feel while still on the mushy stock suspension (since upgraded). Obviously it's the better tires that deserve credit for the increased grip, but the 18" wheels didn't get in the way of that at all.

(Note, while I'm certainly no pro driver, I used to do occasional track days in a past life, and I drive the M3P pretty hard on the back roads and around empty ramps. I'm reasonably familiar with pushing a car's limits, and I specifically went out exploring the limits and overall handling of the M3P when fully stock, and again after each upgrade. If switching to 18" wheels had messed up the handling, I would've noticed.)

Now because you're switching to UHP allseasons, obviously those won't have the grip or at-the-limit responsiveness of a good summer tire, but that will be true regardless of 18" vs 19" vs 20". The OEM PZ4 is not a good summer tire, it's a mediocre one, but probably you'll still feel a downgrade in responsive and warm weather grip going to UHP allseasons. That won't be the fault of 18" sizing though! It's the tire that's key.

The only performance reasons to get 19" over 18" are:

• If you want to run tires that don't come in Model 3 friendly 18" sizes. This is *not* an issue for most tires you might want to run on a Model 3, however for some "extreme performance" track friendly tires, sizing is limited, and 19" opens up more options in that category like Goodyear SC3 and Conti ECF (last I checked).
• If you want to go super wide, the shape of the front knuckle gives a bit more room inside for 19" rim than 18".
• If you want a big brake kit that won't fit under 18" wheels.

Basically if you're buying wheels with track use in mind, 19" is probably worthwhile. Otherwise, for street use 18" makes more sense. Cheaper tires, cheaper wheels, more wheel protection, and better ride. The only downside is finicky wheel weight placement, mainly because of the annoying integrated parking brake.

(Rant: Integrated parking brakes are obnoxious cost-cutting that have no business on a "performance" model with "performance" brakes. Sadly they seem to be ubiquitous these days, Tesla is far from the only carmaker using them.)

@Sophias_dad The Tesla OEM 18" Model 3 wheels won't fit, but many aftermarket 18" wheels will. It is a snug fit though and the wheel weights need to be placed carefully, only on the outside of the barrel, to avoid the path of the parking brake in the rear.

 

[Sophias_dad]

The Tesla OEM 18" Model 3 wheels won't fit, but many aftermarket 18" wheels will. It is a snug fit though and the wheel weights need to be placed carefully, only on the outside of the barrel, to avoid the path of the parking brake in the rear.

Yes, I know that there were aftermarket options that work, but I wanted to make sure OP knew that the Tesla Aero 18's were likely not an option. Thanks for the clarification.

 

[M3Papi]

Yes, I know that there were aftermarket options that work, but I wanted to make sure OP knew that the Tesla Aero 18's were likely not an option. Thanks for the clarification.

Thanks for looking out! And yes, the OEM 18” Aeros will not fit.

I actually bought these:

FlowForm RF05RR _ Matt Black

RRMotorsport Competition Design, Enhanced Features Distinctive 5 Split Spoke Competition Model with Max Weight Reduction and Bead Knurling features. Size range from 18" to 20", the RF05RR is designed for true performance with modern sports car applications. #SuperspeedWheels #RacingConcept...

store.superspeedwheels.com

 

[M3Papi]

Now because you're switching to UHP allseasons, obviously those won't have the grip or at-the-limit responsiveness of a good summer tire, but that will be true regardless of 18" vs 19" vs 20". The OEM PZ4 is not a good summer tire, it's a mediocre one, but probably you'll still feel a downgrade in responsive and warm weather grip going to UHP allseasons. That won't be the fault of 18" sizing though! It's the tire that's key.

Thank you for the very detailed response.

I wish I lived in a warmer area so I could run summer tires year round. But since I need the A/Ss for the winter I think my next best option is the UHP A/Ss and I’ve also heard a lot of good things about the Michelin PS AS 4s over other A/Ss.

Now if wheel diameter does not matter as much, will wider wheels and tires matter yield more noticeable improvements in cornering?

This car will probably never be tracked but like you mentioned, I too like to drive hard on back roads and empty ramps and am wondering if I’ll regain some of the lost grip with A/S tires by running 255+ tires on 9.5” wide wheels.

Another option I’m considering is running 15 and/or 20mm spacers so that the wider stance reduces body roll on corners but I’m not sure that the 2cm will actually make a big difference.

 

[tm1v2]

Thank you for the very detailed response.

I wish I lived in a warmer area so I could run summer tires year round. But since I need the A/Ss for the winter I think my next best option is the UHP A/Ss and I’ve also heard a lot of good things about the Michelin PS AS 4s over other A/Ss.

Now if wheel diameter does not matter as much, will wider wheels and tires matter yield more noticeable improvements in cornering?

This car will probably never be tracked but like you mentioned, I too like to drive hard on back roads and empty ramps and am wondering if I’ll regain some of the lost grip with A/S tires by running 255+ tires on 9.5” wide wheels.

Another option I’m considering is running 15 and/or 20mm spacers so that the wider stance reduces body roll on corners but I’m not sure that the 2cm will actually make a big difference.

@M3Papi 255 UHP allseasons aren't going to grip like a good 245 summer tire in warm weather. That 10mm difference is pretty minimal. You might as well just get 8.5" wide wheels and run 245s, I doubt you'll feel any grip difference between 255 vs 245 of the same tire. (I'm mostly ignoring 235s because with an 8.5" wide wheel you might as well run 245s!)

Now if you're considering very wide fitments for the UHP allseasons, I just don't have the experience to say, but it seems like overkill to me.

Also, 255mm 18s don't really make sense on this car last I checked, for a combo of reasons. For one, if you're going to run 18x9.5" wheels - which is a fairly common wider-than-stock fitment - you might as well run 265/40R18. That gives you more width, and is very close to stock diameter. With 255s you would either have to run 255/45R18 or 255/40R18 and each of those has issues. In 255/45R18 there just isn't much performance tire availability, last I checked. Not worth it. And 255/45R18 is very tall for this car, I actually like a tall tire for this car BUT that is pushing the limits of what will fit under the front knuckle. Depending on the tire it might rub. Especially for allseasons with their deeper tread (vs summers, on average). 255/40R18 would definitely fit but that's a lot smaller-than-stock diameter, it will work but personally I wouldn't want that. (Also I have not checked tire availability in that size.)

Now if you go 19x9" wheels then there is reasonable availability of 255/40R19 last I checked. Just be mindful it's pushing the diameter limits of what will fit, many tires will fit, but some might rub.

That said, if your goal is extra width for max grip, I would agree with 9.5" wide as a nice easy fitment with potentially useful extra width - and then you might as well run 265s. E.g. with 18x9.5" run 265/40R18, or with 19x9.5" run 265/35R19. Those are common fitments on this car, with good tire availability, and close-to-stock outer diameter.

Now for my actual recommendation...if you want the feeling and grip of a good summer tire, there is no substitute. Swap wheels for the seasons.

For your "winter" set with UHP allseasons, I would suggest 245/45R18 on 18x8.5" wheels. (Or if you want 19" then 245/40R19.) 245 on 8.5" wide wheels is a very normal fitment. The 245/45R18 size is just slightly taller than stock but not much, no risk of rubbing. It gives you a slight bit of extra diameter and sidewall and width vs 235/45R18, and I think those are all good things for this car. I just don't think it makes sense to run extra wide allseasons. Save that for the summers.

Also, 245/45R18 UHP allseasons is what's on my M3P right now. Basically I've turned my 18x8.5" wheels into "winter" wheels (mild winter here), which I was pretty much planning to since I first bought them (even though I did run one set of summers on them first). TBD what size wheels I get for my future summer set - might just do another 18x8.5" because it's so practical and efficient and priced right. But yes wider is tempting!

For summer it's really up to you. I wasn't quite satisfied with the stock grip, but after upgrading to better summer tires in 245/45R18 I became happy with the grip. Would you be happy with that grip, or want more? I can't say. My guess is you would with a good summer street tire (e.g. Potenza Sport, PS4S) but if you want to go 18x9.5" or 19x9.5" for your summer set and run 265/40R18 or 265/35R19, go for it. It'll cost you more for the wheels and tires and energy consumption, but if that's not a problem for you, then sure why not? I would not bother going any wider than 265s on 9.5" wide wheels on this car for just street use, no matter how aggressive your back road shredding is.

 

[tm1v2]

As far as "is swapping wheels worth it, when my winters are mild and I could run UHP allseasons year round?" Well that's exactly the position I'm in now, and if you're also into pushing your car's limits and really tearing up the back roads, I think yes, swapping wheels is worthwhile. Today's UHP allseasons are pretty darn good on pavement, a lot better than the ones from 15-20 years ago, but today's summer tires are still easily better.

On that car I tracked I *had* to swap wheels, I was doing track days in the summer, and literally chasing snowstorms in the mountains in the winter. No one tire could handle both properly. So I had a summer street+track set, and a winter set (with proper studless snow & ice winter tires - they were awesome for the winter driving I was doing back then).

I don't chase snowstorms anymore, in fact for many years I got away with running summers year round, but as of last year I'm spending more time just slightly further north, plus the weather's been getting more extreme in general, so this winter I started encountering freezing temps and icy spots overnight and that is too sketchy with summers. Plus I got a nail in my summers and they were pretty beat & almost done anyways - so I ditched them for UHP allseasons. I may just run these UHP allseasons all next summer and through next winter to save money, but I still have that itch for proper summer tires, so either this spring, or spring 2024, I will get another set of wheels for this car, and get back into swapping between summer & "winter" wheels (now UHP allseasons for winter for me), like I was doing years ago.

 

[gearchruncher]

@tm1v2 has done a good job here, but it can be boiled down even more:
Narrow tires are good for snow and rain. Wide is good for dry.
Switching to a UHP all season because you need the snow performance, then making that tire wider and giving up snow traction (and range), is just a weird thing to do.

Your handling is already going to be shot with an all season compared to a summer tire. That's just the way it works. You can't get that back with a few mm of width. If you care about handling at all, you'll put "summer" tires on anytime you can.

That being said, is it SNOW that makes you believe you need an all season or TEMPERATURE? There are good "summer" tires that work well below freezing.

 

[tm1v2]

@tm1v2 has done a good job here, but it can be boiled down even more:
Narrow tires are good for snow and rain. Wide is good for dry.
Switching to a UHP all season because you need the snow performance, then making that tire wider and giving up snow traction (and range), is just a weird thing to do.

Your handling is already going to be shot with an all season compared to a summer tire. That's just the way it works. You can't get that back with a few mm of width. If you care about handling at all, you'll put "summer" tires on anytime you can.

That being said, is it SNOW that makes you believe you need an all season or TEMPERATURE? There are good "summer" tires that work well below freezing.

I used to live in the mid-Atlantic area, kinda near DE where @M3Papi is. I wouldn't run summer tires through the winter there, unless I had another car I could take anytime I needed.

Edit: Winter weather varied wildly there, but the more extremes could be pretty extreme, with temps way below freezing and pretty serious snow & ice storms at times. And extreme weather is becoming more and more common everywhere these days.

 

[tm1v2]

One more thing worth considering...are you simply after max grip, or highest cornering speeds? Are you on stock suspension? Is your M3P a 2021+ model? (Older Model 3's came with somewhat firmer, sportier suspension tuning - though my seat time in older 3's is very minimal.)

On rough bumpy back roads with 100% stock suspension and tires, tire grip was NOT the limiting factor for my cornering speeds or overall pace. It was the suspension. I would absolutely chicken out and get scared well before reaching the limit of grip with the PZ4's on such roads.

Now on smooth ramps I could use all the tire's grip no problem, though even around the longest ramps with the smoothest pavement, the stock suspension never quite fully settled down or locked in. But I could reach the limit of grip on such pavement, and that's the driving where I most wanted more grip than the stock PZ4 gave.

On rough back roads however the car was just a sloppy mess. Get going fast enough and the dampers seemed to give up completely. The car's weight transfers would get completely out of sync with the steering inputs and pavement shape under the car. Mid-corner steering response would turn to mush. Coming out of a big dip the car would crash HARD into the rear bump stops and then feel like it might bounce off the road. The only solution was to slow down. The car was absolutely still fun to drive 100% stock, but a sporty performance suspension it was not, and I couldn't keep up with well-setup sporty sedans in the twisties.

The M3P and M3LR we test drove felt exactly the same way, so I don't think it was anything wrong with our car. (M3LR tires had less grip of course, but otherwise the handling / suspension felt about the same.) Believe me I put the demo car through its paces on our test drive.

That's 100% fixed now with good coilovers and some bushing upgrades. Depending on the limits of your modding budget, would suggest saving money on wheels and tires by sticking with 245/45R18 on 18x8.5", even for your summer setup, and putting that savings towards suspension upgrades, if you haven't upgraded your suspension already. And the first thing to upgrade on this car should be the dampers. Nothing else is worth considering until those are upgraded. (If you want to do some bushing upgrades at the same time, go for it of course, that's what I did. But don't bother with changing out springs or sways on the stock dampers, if you care about handling performance.)

 

[M3Papi]

@tm1v2 has done a good job here, but it can be boiled down even more:
Narrow tires are good for snow and rain. Wide is good for dry.
Switching to a UHP all season because you need the snow performance, then making that tire wider and giving up snow traction (and range), is just a weird thing to do.

Your handling is already going to be shot with an all season compared to a summer tire. That's just the way it works. You can't get that back with a few mm of width. If you care about handling at all, you'll put "summer" tires on anytime you can.

That being said, is it SNOW that makes you believe you need an all season or TEMPERATURE? There are good "summer" tires that work well below freezing.

If I happen to get caught in a snow storm when I'm driving somewhere I'd like to be able to make it safely.

However, I won't be taking this car out if it is icy or if there is a lot of snow already on the ground.

I'll do some googling as well but are there tires as good as Michelin PS4Ss that can be driven in below freezing temperatures?

 

[M3Papi]

Also, 255mm 18s don't really make sense on this car last I checked, for a combo of reasons. For one, if you're going to run 18x9.5" wheels - which is a fairly common wider-than-stock fitment - you might as well run 265/40R18. That gives you more width, and is very close to stock diameter. With 255s you would either have to run 255/45R18 or 255/40R18 and each of those has issues. In 255/45R18 there just isn't much performance tire availability, last I checked. Not worth it. And 255/45R18 is very tall for this car, I actually like a tall tire for this car BUT that is pushing the limits of what will fit under the front knuckle.

Did not know that! I just said 255+ as an arbitrary number because I couldn't remember if 265s were too large for the M3P. But now that I know 265s would work I think that's what I'd go with for the summer set.

For summer it's really up to you. I wasn't quite satisfied with the stock grip, but after upgrading to better summer tires in 245/45R18 I became happy with the grip. Would you be happy with that grip, or want more? I can't say. My guess is you would with a good summer street tire (e.g. Potenza Sport, PS4S) but if you want to go 18x9.5" or 19x9.5" for your summer set and run 265/40R18 or 265/35R19, go for it. It'll cost you more for the wheels and tires and energy consumption, but if that's not a problem for you, then sure why not? I would not bother going any wider than 265s on 9.5" wide wheels on this car for just street use, no matter how aggressive your back road shredding is.

Now the question I have is regarding staggered fitment, should I run 265s on all 4 wheels? Or is it better to get different width tires AND wheels for the front?

 

[M3Papi]

One more thing worth considering...are you simply after max grip, or highest cornering speeds? Are you on stock suspension? Is your M3P a 2021+ model? (Older Model 3's came with somewhat firmer, sportier suspension tuning - though my seat time in older 3's is very minimal.)

On rough bumpy back roads with 100% stock suspension and tires, tire grip was NOT the limiting factor for my cornering speeds or overall pace. It was the suspension. I would absolutely chicken out and get scared well before reaching the limit of grip with the PZ4's on such roads.

Now on smooth ramps I could use all the tire's grip no problem, though even around the longest ramps with the smoothest pavement, the stock suspension never quite fully settled down or locked in. But I could reach the limit of grip on such pavement, and that's the driving where I most wanted more grip than the stock PZ4 gave.

On rough back roads however the car was just a sloppy mess. Get going fast enough and the dampers seemed to give up completely. The car's weight transfers would get completely out of sync with the steering inputs and pavement shape under the car. Mid-corner steering response would turn to mush. Coming out of a big dip the car would crash HARD into the rear bump stops and then feel like it might bounce off the road. The only solution was to slow down. The car was absolutely still fun to drive 100% stock, but a sporty performance suspension it was not, and I couldn't keep up with well-setup sporty sedans in the twisties.

The M3P and M3LR we test drove felt exactly the same way, so I don't think it was anything wrong with our car. (M3LR tires had less grip of course, but otherwise the handling / suspension felt about the same.) Believe me I put the demo car through its paces on our test drive.

That's 100% fixed now with good coilovers and some bushing upgrades. Depending on the limits of your modding budget, would suggest saving money on wheels and tires by sticking with 245/45R18 on 18x8.5", even for your summer setup, and putting that savings towards suspension upgrades, if you haven't upgraded your suspension already. And the first thing to upgrade on this car should be the dampers. Nothing else is worth considering until those are upgraded. (If you want to do some bushing upgrades at the same time, go for it of course, that's what I did. But don't bother with changing out springs or sways on the stock dampers, if you care about handling performance.)

Yes, the car is compeltely stock. My delivery date is Friday 2/17 (knock on wood). Again, I'm not going to be taking this car on the track but I've owned a M3LR and have rented an R8 Spyder and I'm trying to do the low hanging fruit improvements that I can to reduce the roll on the Tesla so it's more like those "well-setup" sporty cars that you mentioned. I'm not sure if roll is the right measure here but I want more stability, and mainly comfort, hitting corners at high speed.

Yes, I agree that with increased grip from the new tires you can make turns at higher speeds but does it feel like you're hanging on for dear life because you're still on stock suspension?

Honestly, I didn't even think about the suspension until you brought it up. However, if I were to mod the suspension, it would be after getting a summer set of wider wheels and tires. What exact mods did you make to your dampers and what would you have made looking back?

 

[tm1v2]

If I happen to get caught in a snow storm when I'm driving somewhere I'd like to be able to make it safely.

However, I won't be taking this car out if it is icy or if there is a lot of snow already on the ground.

I'll do some googling as well but are there tires as good as Michelin PS4Ss that can be driven in below freezing temperatures?

No summer tire is good for freezing weather. Full stop, none is. If a tire is appropriate for freezing weather it won't be categorized as a summer tire. (I'll get into why more below.) The whole point of the "summer" category is to not make tradeoffs for freezing weather.

Now some summer tires are better at cold-but-not-freezing temps than others. That is an important difference. I think they all lose some grip as it gets closer to freezing but some lose more than others. Typically, in my experience, "max performance" summer tires (approx 300-ish TW), which is the top category of street-focused performance tires, are perfectly usable anywhere above freezing. They'll lose some grip but not become hockey pucks just cause it's 40F... they'll still outgrip plenty of non-performance allseasons at those temps.

I suspect part of my issue with the OE PZ4 is that they're more sensitive to cold temps than some other tires in the category. Those 1k miles I used them for were in fairly cold (not freezing) late fall weather. The Potenza Sport I switched to were easily better at those temps than the PZ4. I believe in warm temps the Potenza Sport are still better, but I suspect the difference might be lesser. Just a suspicion, as I never used the PZ4 in warm weather. Regardless, cold-ish (above freezing) performance is important to me for a summer tire, so even if the PZ4 stack up better in the middle of summer, that's not good enough for me.

I think what @gearchruncher is saying about the PS4S is that they're also one of the better summer tires at colder - but still above freezing - temps. Which I fully believe.

Now as for summer tires in true freezing weather...

Summer street tires (like the "max performance" 300-ish TW category) won't turn into hockey pucks on dry pavement just from the temp dipping to 30F in my experience. They will still grip okay on completely dry pavement if you don't go nuts, and you drive appropriately knowing you have the wrong kind of tires on for the weather.

However they will be absolutely horrid on any snow and ice. Just as importantly, I've seen manufacturer warnings that driving on their summer tires in freezing temperatures can permanently damage them. They won't dramatically fall apart or anything like that, but afterwards they may never grip as well as they used to.

I personally used summer tires in snowy mountains once - don't ask why, I knew better - and they were every bit as awful on any amount of snow as you might expect. I didn't die or crash the car, I knew exactly what I was getting into and drove with extreme caution. But it was risky and I would never recommend that as a plan.

If it's freezing you might encounter ice, even if there hasn't been any precipitation. Even an overnight freeze with some nice moist air can be enough for ice patches to form. Don't risk it with summers, and don't risk messing up their compound so that they don't grip as well the next summer. Save them for the warmer seasons when they're in their element.

 

[tm1v2]

Did not know that! I just said 255+ as an arbitrary number because I couldn't remember if 265s were too large for the M3P. But now that I know 265s would work I think that's what I'd go with for the summer set.



Now the question I have is regarding staggered fitment, should I run 265s on all 4 wheels? Or is it better to get different width tires AND wheels for the front?

While this car can fit much wider wheels in the back, I don't think there's any functional reason to go staggered on the M3P. If you do on this car it's just for looks, and you'll probably just get some extra understeer without improving max cornering grip / speeds.

The stock suspension had a healthy (not excessive) amount of steady-state understeer. More rear tire would just add to the understeer I think. My aftermarket coilovers feel wonderfully neutral but again I don't think adding rear grip alone would help my cornering speeds. It would just add back some understeer most likely.

More importantly, from what I've read here from those who actually track their Model 3's, they don't recommend staggered.

Even for straight line acceleration I don't think a staggered ultra wide rear fitment is of much use. From the drag data I've seen posted here (I'm not into drag racing myself), in the 1/4 mile you'll be overall quicker (ET) and faster (trap speed) by focusing on very light wheels with low rolling resistance tires. Whatever you lose in launch, you more than make up for at higher speeds. Maybe 0-30 or so a really beefy grippy rear setup would be worthwhile, but not for longer drag races, apparently. (This despite the rear motor being more powerful than the front.)

Feel free to go staggered for looks of course, just don't bother for performance I think.

 

[Lindenwood]

100% agree with @tm1v2 on upgrading the dampers. I daily my M3P on 275-width all-seasons as well (mildish SW winters), have almost annoyingly high traction on anything but black ice, and can still yank 1g on the corners.

Specifically, on the same daily on-ramp with the same tires, I went from a sustainable 53mph with the stock dampers before things got squirrelly to 58mph on my MPP Comforts before the tires started squealing. That is a 15% increase in lateral gs just from the car staying more planted. (Granted, I can do 65ish on my race tires, which I hardly have the guts to do…).

 

[Coletrickle]

Thanks for looking out! And yes, the OEM 18” Aeros will not fit.

I actually bought these:

FlowForm RF05RR _ Matt Black

RRMotorsport Competition Design, Enhanced Features Distinctive 5 Split Spoke Competition Model with Max Weight Reduction and Bead Knurling features. Size range from 18" to 20", the RF05RR is designed for true performance with modern sports car applications. #SuperspeedWheels #RacingConcept...

store.superspeedwheels.com

@M3Papi - those wheels look great! Did they fit your Performance hubs without modifications, or did you have to run a spacer? Could you use the stock Tesla lugs? Did you order them from the Canadian web site or a different vendor? Thanks!

 

[M3Papi]

@M3Papi - those wheels look great! Did they fit your Performance hubs without modifications, or did you have to run a spacer? Could you use the stock Tesla lugs? Did you order them from the Canadian web site or a different vendor? Thanks!

Have not checked if they fit yet. It ended up being warm enough here that I don't need to switch out my summer set until next winter.

I ordered from their website and the wheels shipped from Canada, no extra cost or fees so if I were you I'd just order from their Canadian website too.

I guess these wheels will sit in the boxes they shipped in until next winter lol.

 

[Coletrickle]

Have not checked if they fit yet. It ended up being warm enough here that I don't need to switch out my summer set until next winter.

I ordered from their website and the wheels shipped from Canada, no extra cost or fees so if I were you I'd just order from their Canadian website too.

I guess these wheels will sit in the boxes they shipped in until next winter lol.

I bought the Superspeed RF05RR in 18x8.5"and installed them a couple months ago on my Model 3 Performance. Ordered directly from the Canadian web site. Used Muteki 73mm hub centering rings. Re-used the stock TPMS and lug nuts. Everything bolted right up. Bought some cheap matte black center caps and lug nut caps from Amazon. Wrapped the outer diameter of the caps in tape to make them fit the larger center hole of the new wheels. Mounted Michelin PS4S in 245/45/18. I'm happy with the change - the card rides a little less rough than it did with the stock 20" wheels which is what I hoped to accomplish. And the slightly wider tires give me some protection agains curb rash. I don't notice much (if any) difference in handling or acceleration. Hope this helps!