M3P or Long Range

[Nayston]

Hey guys. I have an M3P (blue with white interior) on order and I'm not sure if I should change to long range. I really liked the pre-refresh rims, compared to the uberturbines. I also need all-season in Chicago, instead of summer tires. While I really want the performance edition, my brain just tells me to get the long range with the 19" all-season tires, add the acceleration boost and buy these rims aftermarket: Tesla Model 3 Wheels-19" TS5 Flow Forged Tesla Wheel (Set of 4) - T Sportline - Tesla Model S, 3, X & Y Accessories

I wouldn't lower the car, but I'd find a shop to paint the calipers. So if I did that, I'd be saving a big chunk of change. What would I be missing? The spoiler? Anything else?

Anyone else in the same boat? Which direction did you go?

 

[Apprunner]

Hey guys. I have an M3P (blue with white interior) on order and I'm not sure if I should change to long range. I really liked the pre-refresh rims, compared to the uberturbines. I also need all-season in Chicago, instead of summer tires. While I really want the performance edition, my brain just tells me to get the long range with the 19" all-season tires, add the acceleration boost and buy these rims aftermarket: Tesla Model 3 Wheels-19" TS5 Flow Forged Tesla Wheel (Set of 4) - T Sportline - Tesla Model S, 3, X & Y Accessories

I wouldn't lower the car, but I'd find a shop to paint the calipers. So if I did that, I'd be saving a big chunk of change. What would I be missing? The spoiler? Anything else?

Anyone else in the same boat? Which direction did you go?

Track mode and better brakes. You can get the Performance and sell the larger wheels to get nicer forged wheels you quoted above too or use it for dedicated snow tires.

 

[jjrandorin]

Here are a couple threads already on this same topic. Its pre refresh, but the difference in the cars has nothing to do with refresh.

Performance or LR-AWD
LR-AWD or Performance
Performance or LR AWD

 

[Knightshade]

If you plan to genuinely track the car, get the P. There's no good replacement for Track Mode in that situation.

If you don't- get the AWD+Boost. There'll be basically 0 useful difference in daily driving (unless you routinely find yourself stoplight racing 6-figure exotics) and you'll have more options for aftermarket wheels and avoid the boat anchor 20s on the P that'll not get along well with northern city winters or potholes.

 

[jschmitt3]

I too had the same dilemma 3 months ago as I was ordering; for me it was simple, Im not taking the car to the track, I'm not a consistent hard driver (every once in a while tho - and Im not a fan of needing BOTH summer and winter tires; I went LR - have not regretted it, saved the 8K - threw some of that into a ceramic coating, a spoiler - and if you want to get the acceleration boost - you are still well ahead of the cost curve; the 19 inch tires are very solid - and they will hold up better in the long run!

 

[Nayston]

Thanks for the opinions. I would never track it. Ever. But the difference is close enough after the few things I’d do to it where I’m just like eff it, I’m getting the performance edition. It’s $8K difference, but then it costs $1500 for the 19” wheel upgrade. Then $2000 for boost. So now the difference is $4500. I just hate the rims on the long range so much that I would want to upgrade them to the ones I posted in the OP. With TMPS, they cost $2300. So that’s $2200 plus install of rims. So for that $2000 or so realized difference I get: more speed, lowered car, spoiler, colored calipers, bigger brakes, maybe 1-2 more things. Yeah I’d need 20” all seasons for about $1000 (or winter tires). So the difference is about $3000 technically.

 

[Knightshade]

If not tracking the car the bigger brakes do absolutely nothing for you other than cost more if you ever need replacement parts... but I think the degree to which you're trying to talk yourself into spending the extra $ for the P answers your question for you.

 

[Marius A]

I've had both, and I'm now getting another LR.
If you don't race then the P is only for vanity.
LR has better range, can get a tow hitch, rides a bit smoother (unless you put 20" on) and is cheaper.
The P isn't just more expensive out of the factory, it's also more expensive over time. The 20" cost a lot more to replace, those racing brakes are more expensive to service, and if you, like me, are tempted to floor it at every opportunity then the tire wear is noticably higher on the P.

There's nothing wrong with vanity, though. Life is too short not to enjoy yourself.
Just don't trick yourself into thinking there's no practical difference.

 

[mikey_bs]

I too am in the EXACT same position as you as we speak. I ordered mine on October 16th and have an estimated delivery date of Nov 12 - Dec 18th.

My order is for a PM3 and I too and contemplating if its worth the 8k difference. I think the LR3 is already very fast in comparison to the average car on the road. For me the 8k swing is the difference between a 72 month loan or downgrading to LR and doing a 60 month loan (5yr vs 6yr and the payment is also $35 cheaper per month and 1 year shorter).

As things stand at this very moment I am going to change my build to a LR. I do like the idea of having a Performance model, with the small details that signifies the Performance model...but the more I think about it and the more I read other peoples comments above I think this really helped me solidify my decision.

Also, I too HATE the uberturbines and LOVE the 20'' Gray Performance wheels so I was going to have to make that change regardless. As of now I don't see any need for getting the speed boost either...maybe after I drive the LR for a while and want to add it...Ill cross that bridge when / if I ever get there....

The "refreshed" Model 3 already has the Chrome delete and makes the car look very aggressive and sporty. IMO with the Chrome Delete it makes it even harder to tell the difference between a P and non P.

 

[Eddie1218]

Thanks for the opinions. I would never track it. Ever. But the difference is close enough after the few things I’d do to it where I’m just like eff it, I’m getting the performance edition. It’s $8K difference, but then it costs $1500 for the 19” wheel upgrade. Then $2000 for boost. So now the difference is $4500. I just hate the rims on the long range so much that I would want to upgrade them to the ones I posted in the OP. With TMPS, they cost $2300. So that’s $2200 plus install of rims. So for that $2000 or so realized difference I get: more speed, lowered car, spoiler, colored calipers, bigger brakes, maybe 1-2 more things. Yeah I’d need 20” all seasons for about $1000 (or winter tires). So the difference is about $3000 technically.

I did the same math as you when I was choosing between the M3 or M3P. Like you, in the end the cost difference was 2K. That 2K, in my mind, is put toward a "2nd" Acceleration Boost to get to 3.0 secs. I am not sure if that is a coincidence or me just finding any reason to stay with the P.

 

[Eddie1218]

I too am in the EXACT same position as you as we speak. I ordered mine on October 16th and have an estimated delivery date of Nov 12 - Dec 18th.

My order is for a PM3 and I too and contemplating if its worth the 8k difference. I think the LR3 is already very fast in comparison to the average car on the road. For me the 8k swing is the difference between a 72 month loan or downgrading to LR and doing a 60 month loan (5yr vs 6yr and the payment is also $35 cheaper per month and 1 year shorter).

As things stand at this very moment I am going to change my build to a LR. I do like the idea of having a Performance model, with the small details that signifies the Performance model...but the more I think about it and the more I read other peoples comments above I think this really helped me solidify my decision.

Also, I too HATE the uberturbines and LOVE the 20'' Gray Performance wheels so I was going to have to make that change regardless. As of now I don't see any need for getting the speed boost either...maybe after I drive the LR for a while and want to add it...Ill cross that bridge when / if I ever get there....

The "refreshed" Model 3 already has the Chrome delete and makes the car look very aggressive and sporty. IMO with the Chrome Delete it makes it even harder to tell the difference between a P and non P.

I am 50/50 on the Uberturbines but since it is exclusive to the M3P, I think, it would be easy to sell and get what would want with minimal to not out of pocket expense. I been lurking the MY forum to get a general idea of what to expect with color options and I hope it translates to the M3.

 

[Nayston]

I am 50/50 on the Uberturbines but since it is exclusive to the M3P, I think, it would be easy to sell and get what would want with minimal to not out of pocket expense. I been lurking the MY forum to get a general idea of what to expect with color options and I hope it translates to the M3.
View attachment 604645

I'm 50/50 on the uberturbine as well, TBH. But if I'm going Performance, I'm just going to keep them. While I prefer the pre-refresh Performance rims (or the ones linked in the OP), the ubers aren't horrible by any stretch.

This is probably a dumb question, but what's the MY forum?

 

[valaeyron]

I'm 50/50 on the uberturbine as well, TBH. But if I'm going Performance, I'm just going to keep them. While I prefer the pre-refresh Performance rims (or the ones linked in the OP), the ubers aren't horrible by any stretch.

This is probably a dumb question, but what's the MY forum?

model...y...

 

[itzKris]

Hey guys. I have an M3P (blue with white interior) on order and I'm not sure if I should change to long range. I really liked the pre-refresh rims, compared to the uberturbines. I also need all-season in Chicago, instead of summer tires. While I really want the performance edition, my brain just tells me to get the long range with the 19" all-season tires, add the acceleration boost and buy these rims aftermarket: Tesla Model 3 Wheels-19" TS5 Flow Forged Tesla Wheel (Set of 4) - T Sportline - Tesla Model S, 3, X & Y Accessories

I wouldn't lower the car, but I'd find a shop to paint the calipers. So if I did that, I'd be saving a big chunk of change. What would I be missing? The spoiler? Anything else?

Anyone else in the same boat? Which direction did you go?

Had the Performance 3 for a week returned it for the LR 3. It's a more comfortable ride, the acceleration is not that much more - you can always pay for the upgrade if you want. I plan to paint my calipers. Wheels can be changed down the line.

 

[fuddy]

I sold my stealth recently and ordered a P3. I think once you get used to a P3 you can't go back. I have winter wheels ready to mount the day I get it

 

[airbrett]

Had the Performance 3 for a week returned it for the LR 3. It's a more comfortable ride, the acceleration is not that much more - you can always pay for the upgrade if you want. I plan to paint my calipers. Wheels can be changed down the line.

Would changing out the wheels and tires have been an easier move? Or does the suspension make that much of a difference in ride quality?

 

[itzKris]

Would changing out the wheels and tires have been an easier move? Or does the suspension make that much of a difference in ride quality?

Ultimately I don’t think the price hike justifies the performance version of the 3, this is made worse by knowing they’re both the exact same car with the motors being software unlocked to provide the acceleration. The low and stiffer suspension is what made for a more uncomfortable ride with the difference being extremely pronounced when swapping cars for a ride.

If you have the cash and acceleration is paramount - go Performance. In every other use case LR is the smarter choice.

 

[hellocar]

Agree with the majority of the posters here - LR AWD is a fantastic car, and you can always get the acceleration boost. If you aren't going to track it, save the money, and enjoy the longer range and greater pothole resilience.

This might depend on what the roads are like where you live, but here in NJ/NYC area, I wouldn't want the car to be any rougher-riding than my LR AWD with 18".