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M3SR+ or M3LRAWD

Discussion in 'The UK and Ireland' started by Subevo, Nov 8, 2019.

  1. TMThree

    TMThree Active Member

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    Not quite. There's a number of advantages of having the larger battery pack even if you aren't driving long distances:

    1. Faster supercharging.
    2. Degradation over time won't shave off precious miles you might need.
    3. Longer lifespan. The cells are rated for 1500 charge cycles. With more cells, you have many more miles the pack is capable of. e.g; 1500*240 vs 1500*310. Additionally, your discharges will have less depth, which also aids in decreasing degradation.

    There are some cons, cost and weight being the main ones.
     
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  2. Glan gluaisne

    Glan gluaisne Supporting Member

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    For me, the reason for opting for the LR over the SR+ was as much to do with AWD, better interior etc, as the increase in range. We'll probably use the additional range capability on holiday, plus it will be a useful way of taking advantage of days when we generate a fair bit of excess electricity. Being able to store more of it in the car battery, rather than export it to the grid, seems sensible.
     
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  3. TMThree

    TMThree Active Member

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    Interior is identical
     
  4. Glan gluaisne

    Glan gluaisne Supporting Member

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    Not here in the UK it isn't. The SR+ has the "partial premium" interior and the LR has the "premium" interior.
     
  5. Joelly

    Joelly Member

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    The interior is identical, the software is not. It’s minor. Some May be able to say it’s worth the extra cost, I suspect the majority just think it’s a bonus along with the extra range.
     
  6. TMThree

    TMThree Active Member

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    Yeah, they have the same interior. They don't include a few minor things in the car, like the trunk bass.
     
  7. gangzoom

    gangzoom Active Member

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    #27 gangzoom, Nov 9, 2019
    Last edited: Nov 9, 2019
    We are nearly always the last to arrive and first to leave too in our 75D X, that's even travelling with a toddler.

    I suspect 'Free" Supercharging has more impact on dwell time at Superchargers than need for range. What people forget ofcourse when soaking up the 'Free' DC charging is every kWh they take is getting them closer to the DC charging taper limit.

    Our X is a longterm keeper so I try to DC SuperCharge as little as possible - as soon as the predicted destination arrival SOC is over 10% I unplug. Our average SC stop is around 20 minutes if you take the toddler out of the equation.
     
  8. gangzoom

    gangzoom Active Member

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    #28 gangzoom, Nov 9, 2019
    Last edited: Nov 9, 2019
    So are you saying your 100% sure you will only need to do over 150 miles 12 times in 3 years?

    If so the numbers are easy to work out, based on those lease costs each of those 12 trips will in effect cost you £300 for the extra range you might need.

    When we ordered our 60D X I did a similar calculation. Luckily we live in Leicester so a 150 mile one way trip covered nearly the whole of England.

    [​IMG]

    At the time the price difference between a 60D X and 100D was something nuts like £18k, ofcourse everyone wants more range, but I also like value for money, and paying for something you hardly ever going to use is not good value for money.

    Circumstances out of my control meant I was 'forced' to upgrade to 75D. I've now done over 40K in the X and for our use the cheaper battery option has been no problems. If Tesla offered me £4k in return to put the software lock on our 75D and turn it back to a 60D I would do it in a heart beat. We just don't use/need the range.

    To some people spending £100/month extra on a LR vs SR is a trivial amount to worry about, for others its alot of cash. Only you can decide whats works best for you interms of cost versus range.
     
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  9. Glan gluaisne

    Glan gluaisne Supporting Member

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    #29 Glan gluaisne, Nov 10, 2019
    Last edited: Nov 10, 2019
    Or the floor mats that only come with the premium interior, or the lack of heated rear seats in the partial premium, or some of the software...
     
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  10. Joelly

    Joelly Member

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    It’ll be 12 times a year. I live in the south, so will be over 150 miles on a number of occasions.

    not sure how you’ve calculated £300 for the trips? Is that £100*12*3 then divide by number of trips?

    I am expecting to save some money by not having to charge a LR at home as much (charge at work), and less supercharging. If LR means no stopping on a 200m journey, whereas a Sr would require a top up.

    It is all theoretical at this point, but I suspect that puts the cost down to around an extra £70 a month from £100. Be interesting to get your thoughts on that though.
     
  11. Glan gluaisne

    Glan gluaisne Supporting Member

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    I suspect that the slightly higher residual on the LR may well compensate in part for higher initial cost, too, so the true cost of the additional range, better interior features, AWD vs RWD, better performance etc may be a bit less than it seems. Only time will tell if this is the case, though.
     
  12. WannabeOwner

    WannabeOwner Well-Known Member

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    It will depend, somewhat, on whether you can charge at destination. Relies etc. and a 13AMP plug is fine, Hotel / Business meeting, with no charging available, is a nuisance and means you have to arrive with enough juice to make it back to a charger (for me that is where LR scores ... I never want to have to charge outbound to Client, as charging time is unpredictable, on the way back is fine, I just do Emails that I would have to do when I got home anyway, so time-neutral for me)

    I suggest you try the specific journey example(s) in ABRP and compare whether you can "get there" in SR+ / LR

    Even if you do have to stop you only need enough to reach destination (not "fill up" as you would with ICE), so a stop may only be a few minutes ...

    ... but that is if you are not "paired", don't find all stalls occupied or have to wait. Conversely if you would need a bite to eat / pit-stop for kids/pets anyway then it may be evens.
     
  13. gangzoom

    gangzoom Active Member

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    #33 gangzoom, Nov 10, 2019
    Last edited: Nov 10, 2019
    I've seen this man logic been used many times to justify speccing up cars.....If you look at who moans most about poor residual value on these cars its nearly always the people who opted for the biggest spec cars. If your after 'value for money' the base spec cars is always best value, thats true for any brand not just Tesla.

    In any case if your leasing/PCP it makes no difference, its the monthly cost people look at.
     
  14. gangzoom

    gangzoom Active Member

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    Yes, so if your doing x12 trips a year, than its £100 extra per trip.

    I really wouldn't stress over saving what will be 2-3p per mile in 'fuel' costs for the connivence of charging at home versus doing at work. As you say at most that's £30/month saved, to be frank if you're going to that much hassle to save that amount than spending £500/month on a lease car may not be the best idea?

    Our 2015 Lexus IS300H is currently costing us 10p per mile in fuel, £10 a year VED, and £200 service a year, so over 30k that's £3600 for running costs, deprecation on the Lexus has been sub £500 for the last 12 months, and with the ongoing cities banning diesels residuals will only stay strong. But lets go nuts and assume £2000/year depreciation over next 3 years, that's £9600 to own/run over 3 years - 30K, versus £14,440 for a SR Model 3 lease or £18,000 for LR Model 3.

    Put it another way, for £14K you can buy a top spec used Lexus IS outright, and at the end of 3 years keep it for as long as you like AND have very minimal ongoing costs, versus having to continue to fund £400-500/month on a leased EV........and speaking from experience a 5 year old Lexus IS will be far more reliable and trouble free than any brand new Tesla!

    I love EVs, but they are not cheap cars to own/buy.
     
  15. WannabeOwner

    WannabeOwner Well-Known Member

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    I agree, in my case I charge at work but in practice I have charged from home about 50% . Total annual electricity has been around £800 (25,000+ miles a year), so £400 from home. maybe I could move £100 of that to "work" ... but the time and effort of figuring out how to do that (e.g. charging to 100% at work on Fridays ...) is just not worth the hassle, to me.

    If you had to replace it, tomorrow, what would you buy? :)

    most of my Eco-Moves have been "Its bust, got to replace it, don't want to replace it with something that will have Junk 2nd hand price in 3-5 years as market moves away from fossil fuels" (plus, personally, some Eco-responsibility on my part)

    Auto makers seem to be moving away from "Range extenders" / PHEV with at least 100 mile range, but personally I think that would be a good option. I have a 100kWh battery in my car the bottom 50% of which I use a couple of days a month ... that battery could provide 2x 50kWh cars with range extenders and widen ownership ...

    Range Extended has all the complication of adding an ICE under the bonnet and increased maintenance of course ...
     
  16. Glan gluaisne

    Glan gluaisne Supporting Member

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    I guess there will be differences between those who don't want to own a car and those that do. I've always bought cars outright, and usually keep them for several years (last Prius Plug-in was typical, owned it from new for just over five years). There's a bit depreciation hit in the first year or so, but then it tends to even out over the next few years (the last Prius cost me about £210/month in depreciation). I've always taken the view that if I've bought the car and am happy with it, then the price doesn't really matter. Money sat in the bank has been earning next to sod all for years anyway, and I'd rather have something tangible that I can enjoy than a bit more money sat in an account. For years I owned aeroplanes, and they are far worse than cars for soaking up money, worse even than yachts, I think, but damned good fun. As the old saying goes, you can't take it with you...
     
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  17. tess19

    tess19 Member

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    I can totally agree with you. We did couple return trips to London (200ish miles) comfortably in the kona 64kw in motorway speed and rain but did not managed/dare it on the m3p+. Had to stop at SC to top up a bit on the way home.
     
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  18. MidhurstNigel

    MidhurstNigel Member

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    And don't forget that if you own the car you'll probably want to follow the advice and not charge to above 80% - 90% for day to day driving. I charge my LR AWD to 85% normally and at this it shows a range of 259 miles. In the real world and in reasonable wether that probably means no more than 200 miles. Seems a long way but if I visit my daughter who lives 90 miles away and has no top -up facility, and then drive back, I'm getting pretty twitchy by the end. And that's in good weather and before any range degradation. If you can afford it go for the LR - the extra range and the AWD together make an attractive package
     
  19. tess19

    tess19 Member

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    Having mentioned that the Kona is super efficient, we sold the kona a week ago. The M3P is in a different league in terms of refinement. The performance is also better with the 4wd compared with the Kona. The kona wheel spins very easily and not very confident in the wet. It would be worse in winter
     
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  20. Joelly

    Joelly Member

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    So many things to consider. I plan to charge at work for 90% of my charging. Set limit to 80-90% at work and 50-60% at home. I have access to about 16 ev chargers at work and they’re thinking of putting more in so it’s no hassle.
    I am looking at a lease, therefore residual value doesn’t matter, only monthly repayments. Assuming all goes well, I would look to purchase the car at the end (this is often offered, I have checked) and I don’t think I would be as keen to spend that money on a 3 year old SR+, but I would be happier paying a bit extra and paying for a car with longer range and AWD.
    It’s mad, but this is an opportunity to drive a very nice car, compared to a polo or similar. I don’t have a deposit and there is no deposit required with the lease. It’s a business car therefore 0% BIK if BEV. The lease includes insurance, servicing and tyres and therefore the 3 year cost for the SR+ is almost identical. The extra is the LR v SR and I’m almost looking at it as a gamble if I decided to purchase the car in 3 years.

    One thing that is touched on here is that if I went SR+ and decided from the outset that I would not be purchasing at the end of the lease then I could charge to 90-100% every day. This would probably offer the range I’m after but then leave me a bit stuck in 3 years as BIK rates may mean it’s not as feasible as it is now.
     
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