Maintaining the finish between details?

[GasDoc]

I had my car detailed the day after I received it by a local place (Burlingame, CA) with a good reputation, Topline.

The owner told me they used Klasse products and I'm glad to see from Artsci's thread, that Klasse is ranking highly.

How should I take care of my finish between details?

Should I add additional coats of Klasse sealant after washing? Or do I use Klasse all in one?

What about detailing sprays such as Pinacle?

 

[shokunin]

I had my car detailed the day after I received it by a local place (Burlingame, CA) with a good reputation, Topline.

The owner told me they used Klasse products and I'm glad to see from Artsci's thread, that Klasse is ranking highly.

How should I take care of my finish between details?

Should I add additional coats of Klasse sealant after washing? Or do I use Klasse all in one?

What about detailing sprays such as Pinacle?

Klasse lasts for several months, you should not need to reapply Klasse after every wash. If you detailer is applying klasse AIO and Sealant, then sound washing practices is all you need. If you want a little more depth or gloss you can always use a wax or detail spray after washing.

Bad washing technique is usually what causes most the damage along with not checking every single microfiber towel, every single time you wash them for debri, leaves, and stuff that gets embedded into the fibers.

 

[GasDoc]

Klasse lasts for several months, you should not need to reapply Klasse after every wash. If you detailer is applying klasse AIO and Sealant, then sound washing practices is all you need. If you want a little more depth or gloss you can always use a wax or detail spray after washing.

Bad washing technique is usually what causes most the damage along with not checking every single microfiber towel, every single time you wash them for debri, leaves, and stuff that gets embedded into the fibers.

Thanks! Any tips on which detailing spray works well with Klasse? I was looking at detailing sites and it looks like you could really go nuts with $40 "supercharging" additives that are supposed to improve upon detailing sprays.

I've got a ton of microfiber towels that I got from Costco. To dry my car, I use a Chamois first and then go through about 6-8 micro fiber towels to get the last of the water.

 

[spatterso911]

I'm using a Meguiars detailing spray in between washes with spray details about every 4 days for my black car. Keeps it looking sharp and no swirl marks so far, as I use pristine microfiber towels and a light touch to "polish" the detailing spray on. She got her first major wash today (Gilmour foammaster, chemical guys maxi suds, lambswool mit), dried with costco microfiber towels then detailed in the garage. Looks brand new all over again

 

[Tacket]

I also have a black car but would have to spray detail almost every day to keep it clean. Oh how I would love to live in CA!

 

[kevincwelch]

I would ditch the chamois. That is an object left over from another era and has less capacity to trap particles that still may be on the paint and potentially drag them across the paint, thus scratching them. The microfibers from Costco are pretty decent, but I would invest in some better quality ones with some thicker naps. I use the Costco ones for the interior, jambs and trunk/frunk.

For drying, consider using a leaf blower, air compressor or some high quality microfiber towels -- not the chamois.

For light dusting, use a quick detailer like Meguiar's, Poorboy's, or Optimum QD. If your car is too dirty to clean with a QD, use a waterless wash such as Optimum Opti-Clean or Ultima Waterless Wash and wipe down with some thick nap (400-600 g/m^2) microfibers. If your car is dirty, but too dirty to use a waterless wash and you don't feel like doing a full two bucket wash, try Optimum No Rinse with some thick nap microfiber towels.

 

[capt601]

You may want to consider a CR Spotless deionized water filtration system for spraying and washing off the car. I put it off for years and finally bought this past summer. Absolutely amazing product. Spray the car and forget it. No water spots. This saves you from drying it off and putting scratches on the car. Most times with dust, I simply need to spray the car and I am done. No soap needed.
I bought the 2 cylinder unit , dic-20, through my detailer who had the best price i could find anywhere on the net.
Somewhat expensive, but very much worth it.

 

[JPP]

I had my car detailed the day after I received it by a local place (Burlingame, CA) with a good reputation, Topline.

The owner told me they used Klasse products and I'm glad to see from Artsci's thread, that Klasse is ranking highly.

How should I take care of my finish between details?


Should I add additional coats of Klasse sealant after washing? Or do I use Klasse all in one?

What about detailing sprays such as Pinacle?

IMHO why not just get OptiCoat Pro and be done with it. No waxing or polishing. Very hard ceramic clear coat. Great protection. My MC Red always looks great.
As you are in the SF Bay Area, you might talk to Joe at Orinda Auto Detail. He has probably done over 200 Model S by now (did mine in August).

 

[Tacket]

IMHO why not just get OptiCoat Pro and be done with it. No waxing or polishing. Very hard ceramic clear coat. Great protection. My MC Red always looks great.
As you are in the SF Bay Area, you might talk to Joe at Orinda Auto Detail. He has probably done over 200 Model S by now (did mine in August).

I'm having my Black S coated with OC Pro right now actually. Looking forward to quicker daily driver maintenance washes and hopefully only the major washings after road trips. Some folks have told me that they can get my with maintenance washes with a soap gun + OC Pro. Sound about right?

 

[JPP]

I'm having my Black S coated with OC Pro right now actually. Looking forward to quicker daily driver maintenance washes and hopefully only the major washings after road trips. Some folks have told me that they can get my with maintenance washes with a soap gun + OC Pro. Sound about right?

Might work. FWIW I get a commercial hand wash twice a week: initial pressure rinse with plain water, then soap scrub with fake lambswool mitts, hand dry with high pressure air assist. No tunnel/automated equipment. Finish looks great and cleans easily. My detailer also did OptiCoat on the wheels inside front and back (deinstalls the wheels) plus the glass and plastic.

 

[MoeMistry]

Paint on MS is extremely soft. We recently worked on our first BLACK MS, and it's the softest paint I've worked on in 20 years.

Just use a quality 100% lambswool mitt, with a proper soap/water concentration. In a 5gal bucket, it should almost be like 1 gal of water and 4 gal of foam. You should be able to pick up with your pinky.

As for spray waxes, I've grown fond of cquartz Reload. Worth every penny and you apply a small coat every 2-3 weeks. Bottle should last you about 6-8 months