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Making homelink work In equipped model s/x

Discussion in 'Australia & New Zealand' started by paulp, Nov 25, 2018.

  1. paulp

    paulp Active Member

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    Fantastic that you were able to convince tesla to activate that. Bad luck about the frequency issue. You should be able to buy any brand of reciever on the homelink list at the correct frequency and wire it into your door. Just watch the power voltage and power frequency when powering the reciever, US voltage is different than ours.
     
  2. trajcem

    trajcem New Member

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    FAB4ED99-68F7-401E-A2BE-1960B122A6B6.jpeg
    Hi, I was wondering if you can show me a better photo of the B&D circuit board green connector with the Merlin receiver wiring. I’m trying to get mine connected, however struggling a little. Attached is a photo of my connector.
     
  3. paulp

    paulp Active Member

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    Looking online, the two connections you need are OSC and 0V. These are the two normally used for a key switch connection, which is what it thinks your merlin reciever is. Make sure you use a transformer of the correct size to power up your merlin reciever.
     
  4. trajcem

    trajcem New Member

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    Cheers. I will need to buy a power supply, although I noticed that my opener has a 24v dc connector sitting free, must be for some other add-on on the B&D opener. Do you know if I can use that spare supply to hard wire straight into the +/- of the receiver?
     
  5. paulp

    paulp Active Member

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    #45 paulp, Jan 27, 2019
    Last edited: Jan 27, 2019
    You can if it meets the voltage and amps required for the merlin reciever. Unfortunately they are a bit vague on that. My security guy strongly recommended I use a 12v DC power supply for longevity. I didn’t question why as I had one laying around.
     
  6. MMinehan

    MMinehan Member

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    If you get a multimeter with fine tiped probes you should be able to measure the DC supply voltage between V+ and 0V. You have to poke it into the connector so the probes touch the metal connectors in side. I think most garage door openers supply 24VDC for accessories. I know that the Garador GDO series do.

    BE CAREFUL as the garage door will have a mains 240VAC live supply!!! Do not touch any other parts of the circuit board. Only connect the wiring with the garage door powered off and disconnected!!

    Check the specs on the Merlin. If I recall correctly it does support +24VDC as a power source.

    In that case you need to wire as follows:
    Garage Opener - > Merlin Reciever (wire colour convention, just to make things easier diagnose)
    V+ -> +AC/DC (use a red wire)
    0v - > -AC/DC (use a black wire)
    0v - > COM Ch1 (use a white wire or green wire)
    OSC -> NO Ch1 (use a blue wire or yellow wire)

    Just for reference: NO = normally open on a switch, COM = common on a switch, NC = normally closed on a switch. So in a resting state COM and NC are connected, and in an activated switch COM and NO are connected.

    OSC stands for Open, Stop. Close. On a garage door this is where the internal wall switch is connected as momentary push button.

    SB1 and SB2 are used for Safety Beams. I'm pretty sure the two 0V connectors are the same and are the ground for power, safety beams, OSC and AUX output. So you should be able to use either/both for your wiring.

    As usual, all care no responsibility on my part. Check you manuals to be sure.

    Hope this helps with your install.

    Marty.
     
    • Informative x 1
  7. smithy

    smithy Member

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    I have the B&D controller and connected the Merlin directly as above, so the B&D power supply is powering the Merlin via the V+/0V connection. No need for an external power supply. All works perfectly.
     
    • Informative x 1
  8. MMinehan

    MMinehan Member

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    One minor correction on my part. On the Garador GDO series the +V terminal is only powered while the door is in motion. This means it does NOT work for the Merlin/LiftMaster receiver as there is no power when the door is idle.

    I had to use an external 12VDC power supply. But I got it all working with the US Homelink module in the Tesla, a LiftMaster 860LM receiver and a LiftMaster 893MAX 3 button remote to do the HomeLink learning. The LiftMaster gear came from Amazon in the US.

    Yippie!!
     
  9. Dilz

    Dilz Member

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    May i ask how you convinced them to get it recoded?

    I asked my service center the other day, and the response i got was, due to it not being standard, they cannot help.
     
  10. MMinehan

    MMinehan Member

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    I asked them very nicely.
    Basically I turned up to the service center with the HomeLink module in my hand and asked if they would fit it. They said it was not standard practice and gave no guarantees it would work. Obviously I had to pay for the labor. They also had to re-code the car itself. I then had to wait for the firmware to be pushed out again, after they called Sydney and talked to some sort of advanced technician who has the ability to modify the firmware profile for individual cars.
    They were very clear that the HomeLink module would not be covered under any warranty.
     
    • Like x 1
  11. trajcem

    trajcem New Member

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    Champion
     
  12. trajcem

    trajcem New Member

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    Hi, thanks again. I checked the voltage and unfortunately got a higher reading. Reads approx 33v. There is seperate add-on connector(refer photo), seems to be fitted for some sort of expansion. That reads 27v. Do you think I’m running the risk of exceeding the Receivers capacity and potentially burning it out?
     

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  13. paulp

    paulp Active Member

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    The recievers instructions have a table addvising the minimum and maximum voltage, as well as the amps. Shouldn’t be any issues if you are within this specification.
     
  14. MMinehan

    MMinehan Member

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    You should be fine. According to the E8003 manual it can handle up to 34VDC:
    "Power. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9-30V AC or 9-34V DC, 50mA"
    The expansion connector you mention is probably for a backup battery. So best not to use this. But check the manual for what it is for.
    Often you will get a higher voltage reading from a power supply when it is not under load. I wouldn't be surprised if after you connect the Merlin to the opener, as described above, and measure the voltage again (across the +AC/DC and -AC/DC connectors of the Merlin) that it's closer to 24VDC.
     
  15. Dilz

    Dilz Member

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    I was at the SC again today, and asked the guys again if they could do this for me, with me willing to pay for it to be done.

    The response I was kindly given, was that Homelink had advised Tesla that they didn't want the cars that didn't have Homelink originally, to be able to come in and get it set up.

    So basically, I have a Homelink device (in the car, which I bought from the US) that cannot be set up over here, even though I was told that it is only a software update/coding required to have it enabled. Very disappointed, as that would have made my car complete. Oh well... If anyone finds a way to get this done, please let me know.
     
  16. MMinehan

    MMinehan Member

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    That's a real shame. I don't understand how it's any skin off their nose. Homelink (Gentex) have already made money when they built and sold the module. I don't think they any ongoing licence fees from Tesla.

    I'm not certain but some people have mentioned the Homelink icon appearing after a major firmware update....without the need for any special coding. I doubt that it is that easy but it is possible. Have you had any major updates since the module was installed?
     
  17. paulp

    paulp Active Member

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    Sounds like a bit of a made up excuse from tesla. It makes no commercial sense for the manufacturer of homelink modules to refuse use in a market that is now open for them. Sounds more like a case of tesla hoping you will buy a new car to get homelink.
     

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