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MASTER THREAD: 2021 Model 3 - Charge data, battery discussion etc

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Regadring battery and range. I believe I rad a couple of times that the 2021 refresh M3 can have some issues with the heat pump so it reduce range by using energy? Not sure it is the right thread to post this in. But how do a non-expert detect that ?

For me, it used less energy when the heatpump stopped working.
Also, some days the heat was weak/flucturating= still lower energy use.
I had a few days where I suspect that the heatpump worked on full emergency power and the consumption was some 25% higher than a regular day with the same ambient temps. These days the heatpump made more noise and I also could feel a vibration in the steering wheel(that felt coupled to the hestpump sound).

I dont think you should worry about this.
 
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The pack went up to 62ºC but I dont know how to add that to the graph. @eivissa how did you add it?
You need to stream the SMT data to Teslalogger to get this reading. Have you setup the token in SMT?
Also interesting nominal full pack has gone from 77.6kWh up to 78.2 kWh in 900km.
That is exactly what we expect to happen. The capacity should rise to 79,#kWh and maybe even as high as 80,4kWh. We will see it in the next weeks on the high mileage cars.
Full charge indicating 570 km.
That is a cap, that is starting from 77,8kWh so, not saying much in regards to your actual capacity. We are waiting for an update to lift this number a little futher with a new degradation theshold obviously.
Regadring battery and range. I believe I rad a couple of times that the 2021 refresh M3 can have some issues with the heat pump so it reduce range by using energy? Not sure it is the right thread to post this in. But how do a non-expert detect that ?
This was an issue with some early Refresh 2021 models. @AAKEE was affected too, my Model 3 Performance which was built within days of his, didnt have the issue. Also none of the three Teslas with heat pump, that I bought afterwards were having any heat pump issues. There was some discussion about it in Germany, but the amount of people affected seemed pretty low and from Q2/2021 I never heard from any car/user again. Wouldnt worry about it at all, to be honest.
 
M3 LR battery degeneration. What are facts/statistics really saying?
In a forum here 2 M3 owners agree that their 2019 M3 have lost a lot of efficiency.
The one saying his 2019 M3 LR lost 18% in 88.000 km (54.000 miles). And the other backing him up with similar observation on his own M3.
Tesla should have said it is normal. Maybe a little to the high side but not surprising.
(They both say their BMW i3 does not do that)

So I googled and it seems that should not be the case, but I also saw this

What is normal battery degradation on Tesla Model 3?

In a prior extensive test, a Tesla Model 3 battery degraded only 2% after 50,000 miles (80,468 km) of use. But that's not always the case. Some owners have experienced sudden range degradation only after driving the car for a few thousand miles.25. jun. 2021


Are there any difference in the battery types. I am about to sign on a M3 with the e3ld battery that is 82 kwh. That is good I learned, but only I guess if it does not degenerate faster than e.g. the LG's ?
I am sure this must have been discussed here ?

What to expect and how to miniize?

Thanks !!
 
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M3 LR battery degeneration. What are facts/statistics really saying?
In a forum here 2 M3 owners agree that their 2019 M3 have lost a lot of efficiency.
The one saying his 2019 M3 LR lost 18% in 88.000 km (54.000 miles). And the other backing him up with similar observation on his own M3.
Tesla should have said it is normal. Maybe a little to the high side but not surprising.
(They both say their BMW i3 does not do that)

So I googled and it seems that should not be the case, but I also saw this

What is normal battery degradation on Tesla Model 3?

In a prior extensive test, a Tesla Model 3 battery degraded only 2% after 50,000 miles (80,468 km) of use. But that's not always the case. Some owners have experienced sudden range degradation only after driving the car for a few thousand miles.25. jun. 2021


Are there any difference in the battery types. I am about to sign on a M3 with the e3ld battery that is 82 kwh. That is good I learned, but only I guess if it does not degenerate faster than e.g. the LG's ?
I am sure this must have been discussed here ?

What to expect and how to miniize?

Thanks !!
As it seems, Model 3 shows generally more degradation than model S? (I dont have very much knowledge about the model S degradation and thresholds etc).

Its well known( knowledge from research) how lithium batteries behave. Just read my posts, I do not make anything up. It is ”facts” from research about lithium batteries, mist often NCA.( panasonic cells for tesla).

The lithium battery degradation is not hokus pokus at all. It is pure physics and ”we” and Tesla know how it works.
The research is very consistent.
Some claim ”battery lottery” but I dont buy that at all. There might be a slight difference between different cars but in the long run it will be the usage that sets the degradation and this will follow the physics shown in the research.

For the question about what to expect and how to minimize, read this forum. If you havent got any other preferences, search for my posts.

If you keep your battery at 90% (except when driving) in a hot climate, you pobably loose some 10% the first year from calendar aging only. After two years you have lost 14% and after three, 17.5%. After nine years you have lost 30%. This is not not normal. This is the way it works.
Still, you will be above 30% the day the warranty expires.

If you keep the battery below 57% when the car sleeps and do mostly shallow cycles the degradation will be well below half probably on third even in a hot climate.
 
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One user in Germany sharing his LG 5C SuC V3 charging results with Update 2021.40.6

Tesla seems to have (unexpectedly) increased the charging speed!

Credits to user @ehrmoa of TFF Germany:
5797ec4e64a096a2181f2186776c0bd452e96f56.jpeg


Ladekurve.jpg
 
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As it seems, Model 3 shows generally more degradation than model S? (I dont have very much knowledge about the model S degradation and thresholds etc).

Its well known( knowledge from research) how lithium batteries behave. Just read my posts, I do not make anything up. It is ”facts” from research about lithium batteries, mist often NCA.( panasonic cells for tesla).

The lithium battery degradation is not hokus pokus at all. It is pure physics and ”we” and Tesla know how it works.
The research is very consistent.
Some claim ”battery lottery” but I dont buy that at all. There might be a slight difference between different cars but in the long run it will be the usage that sets the degradation and this will follow the physics shown in the research.

For the question about what to expect and how to minimize, read this forum. If you havent got any other preferences, search for my posts.

If you keep your battery at 90% (except when driving) in a hot climate, you pobably loose some 10% the first year from calendar aging only. After two years you have lost 14% and after three, 17.5%. After nine years you have lost 30%. This is not not normal. This is the way it works.
Still, you will be above 30% the day the warranty expires.

If you keep the battery below 57% when the car sleeps and do mostly shallow cycles the degradation will be well below half probably on third even in a hot climate.
I understand what you are saying but I can’t find many people saying they have that level degradation. Especially 29% the day their guarantee expires. I appreciate that 8 years is a long time in Tesla ownership and maybe there isn’t enough data.
 
I understand what you are saying but I can’t find many people saying they have that level degradation. Especially 29% the day their guarantee expires. I appreciate that 8 years is a long time in Tesla ownership and maybe there isn’t enough data.
I am not saying that many will have 29% after 8 years.
I say that some will have high degradation, specially the ones that normalky charge to 90% in a hot climate.
Teslas “Dont’s” does for sure aim to make sure as many as possible dont need to use the warranty. It does not try to make everyone having the least degradation.
To make owning a Tesla easy and fun, Tesla would not like to give very hard and precise rules with a lot of “not allowed to-rules”.
As loose rules as possible with minimal use of the warranty would be the aimingpoint. Hence “90-100% for trips only”.

There is an expectation after the tesla battery survey showing that a model S only looses about 10% until the end of time.

For Model 3 there is a lot of(relatively) owners that is worried because they have lost some 10-15% range after two or three years. It is “normal” because that is the way the physics of NCA lithium batteries used in that way. Thats also what Tesla say when they ask about it.

There will not be many owners that use low SOC and charging just in time before departure that will have high degradation.
The physics make all research test cells behave in a certain way, and the cells mounted in Tesla cars will so the same.
There will be a minimal part of “battery lottery”( if any at all).
 
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I am not saying that many will have 29% after 8 years.
I say that some will have high degradation, specially the ones that normalky charge to 90% in a hot climate.
Teslas “Dont’s” does for sure aim to make sure as many as possible dont need to use the warranty. It does not try to make everyone having the least degradation.
To make owning a Tesla easy and fun, Tesla would not like to give very hard and precise rules with a lot of “not allowed to-rules”.
As loose rules as possible with minimal use of the warranty would be the aimingpoint. Hence “90-100% for trips only”.

There is an expectation after the tesla battery survey showing that a model S only looses about 10% until the end of time.

For Model 3 there is a lot of(relatively) owners that is worried because they have lost some 10-15% range after two or three years. It is “normal” because that is the way the physics of NCA lithium batteries used in that way. Thats also what Tesla say when they ask about it.

There will not be many owners that use low SOC and charging just in time before departure that will have high degradation.
The physics make all research test cells behave in a certain way, and the cells mounted in Tesla cars will so the same.
There will be a minimal part of “battery lottery”( if any at all).
So what are the dos and donts to conserve the battery?

Correct me if I'm wrong, but its dont leave a car with high SOC for long periods and dont run the car to low SOC. So keep it in that 50-60% point right?
 
There will be a minimal part of “battery lottery”( if any at all).

I don’t doubt what you say about best practices, and in fact I have started following them when possible (a bit late!), however, I think it is hard to make definitive statements like this without knowing something about the consistency and quality control for the battery cell lines.

Every manufacturing process has variability. We don’t know how much for Tesla’s/Panasonic’s.

So we can’t easily quantify what proportion of observed capacity loss in any particular case is due to battery charging practices, and how much is due to random chance.

As an example, I think it’s pretty clear that individual vehicles can start at 1-2% different (real) initial capacity.

But yes, following your practices will likely lead to relatively excellent results compared to an all 90% charging practice, all else being equal. But will it result in less than 10% capacity loss after three years? Less clear, in any particular case.
 
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If you keep your battery at 90% (except when driving) in a hot climate, you pobably loose some 10% the first year from calendar aging only. After two years you have lost 14% and after three, 17.5%. After nine years you have lost 30%. This is not not normal. This is the way it works.
Still, you will be above 30% the day the warranty expires.

If you keep the battery below 57% when the car sleeps and do mostly shallow cycles the degradation will be well below half probably on third even in a hot climate.
Sorry, but is hot climate a good thing for the battery or the opposite? I cant figure out the point on this? What if in Colder climate like Denmark (since you are Swedish, you know what that imply :) ......-5 dregree celsius + +20 mostly)
 
Sorry, but is hot climate a good thing for the battery or the opposite? I cant figure out the point on this? What if in Colder climate like Denmark (since you are Swedish, you know what that imply :) ......-5 dregree celsius + +20 mostly)
Hotter = worse for calendar aging capacity loss
High SOC = worse for calendar aging capacity loss

Keep the battery as cold as possible (but keep it above freezing) and at a low as SOC as possible for the lowest rate of capacity loss.
 
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Hotter = worse for calendar aging capacity loss
High SOC = worse for calendar aging capacity loss

Keep the battery as cold as possible and at a low as SOC as possible for the lowest rate of capacity loss.
Sorry to be a bit pedantic but as cold as possible isn't quite right. If it's too cold you will spend energy warming to usable temperatures and therefore increase battery usage and cycles. Somewhere it was written that lithium batteries are like humans - so think 60f/15c
 
Sorry to be a bit pedantic but as cold as possible isn't quite right. If it's too cold you will spend energy warming to usable temperatures and therefore increase battery usage and cycles. Somewhere it was written that lithium batteries are like humans - so think 60f/15c
Well, it all depends on your goals - yeah, you probably want to keep the battery above freezing (quick search reveals that if the electrolyte freezes this can create other causes of capacity loss) - but honestly, 5C vs 15C will result in less capacity loss over time - about half as much just using Arrhenius' equation.

The increase in cycling as a result of having to spend a bit more energy warming the battery is probably negligible.
 
As low as possible? I though it was best to keep it around 50% and charge often?
Theres many missunderstandings in the thread. The “absolute best” for the battery isnt always the same as best practice.

I hope you already saw the picture of calendar aging i posted earlier?

The less SOC, the less the battery degrade.
The lowest calendar aging happens at 0% SOC( still with safe voltage, above the minimum limit). But zero % isnt very practical, the car stops charging the small 12V battery and when that goes empty, the car wont even start.
The big difference happens below the central graphite peak, at about 57% true SOC(which equals about 55% on the screen).
If the car has 55% or less during the most part of the day(or night acually as most hours of the car standing often is after the day), the calendar aging will be low.
Again: it halfs just by going below 55-60%.

So by practical means, 0% isnt wanted even if it is slightly better for the battery.
If you use the car with as low SOC as possible(with safe margins to range anxiety) and dont set the charging to commence until it need to, to be finished just before the car is to be used, youre fine.

There seem to be a missunderstanding about 50% SOC being the best for minimizing aging.
Lithium battery chargers set the “storage charging” at a specific voltage that is slightly below the graphite peak.( my chargers target is 3.7 and 3.75V, but they isnt NCA specific).
This is a compromize to make the calendar aging less, but still not need to charge all the capacity when the battery is needed. Also, for long time storage theres a good margin until the battery goes completely empty(below safe margins, and get damaged).
 
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I don’t doubt what you say about best practices, and in fact I have started following them when possible (a bit late!), however, I think it is hard to make definitive statements like this without knowing something about the consistency and quality control for the battery cell lines.

Every manufacturing process has variability. We don’t know how much for Tesla’s/Panasonic’s.

So we can’t easily quantify what proportion of observed capacity loss in any particular case is due to battery charging practices, and how much is due to random chance.

As an example, I think it’s pretty clear that individual vehicles can start at 1-2% different (real) initial capacity.

But yes, following your practices will likely lead to relatively excellent results compared to an all 90% charging practice, all else being equal. But will it result in less than 10% capacity loss after three years? Less clear, in any particular case.
I would think that there would be minor differences between the cells and that it probably isnt that common with big differences due to that we get an average from 4416 cells in a M3 LR.

I would guess that the differences we see is more dependent on the fact that the BMS changes the estimation quite much depending on the charging schedule etc.
It looks for me like the difference in estimated capacity is about 1kWh or more just from different charging schedules( with my own car, same battery etc).

But anyway, I did not mean plus or minus 1 kWh or so as the battery lottery. I have seen a lot of posts stating that it is the battery lottery that made them loose 15% in a couple of years etc.

We can accept that there can be a difference in the BMS estimated capacity of one kWh or so ? If its the manufacturing process or the BMS calc or a
combination probably doesnt matter?
Plus/Minus 1kWh is much less than the loss if the degradation has reached 15% or so.

In the research reports there doesnt seem to
be some cells keeping all Capacity in the same time as other cells loose 15% when they are exposed to the same wear.
In single research reports the cells that get the same threatment loose the same amount of capacity, with very small differences.
Between research reports, the loss of capacity is similar for similat threatment.
The only thing that really can differ is the conclusions, and after reading many reports its actually possible to “see” the misstakes that did lead to the (suspected) faulty conclusion.

So if every single cell in a lot of research
actually behaves in a predictable manner, is ot then wise to think that a lot of battery cells put in a controlled environment like a Tesla battery pack could start behave in a non predictable way?
Of course there could be brake downs and faulty BMS:es, but besides that I guess we can predict the battery capacity quite well by looking at how it is cycled, charged and what SOC it ha in average during rest etc.

The research does more or less agree that calendar aging is lessening with the inverse square root of time. I have seen some tries to make a better formula but still it basically was the same curve, just other maths.

If my cars first year causes about 2.5% calendar aging, then if used the same way, after two years it will reach 2.5 x square root(2)= 3.5%. It will reach 5% after 4 years.
The cyclic aging is very small for
My kind of use, about 0.5% for 30000km.
(1500 FCE cycles ”costs” about 10% = about 10% for 600.000km).
We ad cyclic aging to the calendar aging and get:
3% after one year.(30.000km)
4.5% after two years.(60.000km)
5.5% after four years.(90.000km)
I will not have 10% degrdation after three years, if no other things change.
Research is qiute clear with that the batteries keep the predictable ”straight lines” until about 20% degradation. After that the lithiation causes the degradation to
happen more fast. Thats the reason researchers often only test until 20% capacity loss.

I will retire from my old work soon, and start working on another job. This means start to drive 240km single way once each third week. There is no charger close where I will stay for one week each working session so my very nice small cycles with low sleeping SOC will change( for deeper cycles and maybe the need to sleep with higher SOC)
I dont know about the charging possibillities at the new work and the car will be parked outside for one week( north of the artic circle so some times really cold( we have -30C right now at my home).
The new situation will affect the battery degradation but I think it will be a minor difference. I have no guesstimation as I do not know the prerequisites yet.
 
So what are the dos and donts to conserve the battery?

Correct me if I'm wrong, but its dont leave a car with high SOC for long periods and dont run the car to low SOC. So keep it in that 50-60% point right?
Low SOC is not a problem. Lithium batteries likes low SOC.
They like to sleep with low SOC.
They like to cycle with low SOC.
And they like small cycles.

The low limit is going (well) below 0% so the car shuts down. The small 12v Lead
Acid battery do not like to get empty. And it will if the car *sugar* down and stop charging the 12v battery. Still, the lithium battery wont get hurt.