if you tell people it's $2000 for half a second, that sounds like nothing, but if you tell them the car picks up what, 75 horsepower? it sounds like more. that's like going from the 4 to the 6 cylinder on a BMW.
MASTER THREAD: "Acceleration Boost" option, discussion as to which models and how much quicker
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scubastevo80
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I think many people new to Tesla have never worked on a car much less understand what some people will do for 5hp. I remember adding cold air intakes and headers to my D series Honda for all of 10hp in my late teens. On a 125hp engine it was noticeable. On a 400hp+ car the 50hp is unnecessary for most.
Do you think draggy is more or less accurate then measuring zero to 60 from CAN bus data? Refresh rate on CAN bus is quite a bit faster than 10hz. But the CAN bus speed data is presumably coming from wheel sensors of unknown accuracy.
I've seen many videos that provide the validity of how good a Draggy is at the strip. I haven't seen the same level of scrutiny from CANbus data.
Knightshade
Well-Known Member
Yeah, and in testing I've seen draggy even beats vbox for accuracy when both are tested against timing lights at a "real" drag strip... (and vbox is what most car mags use)
jebinc
M3 LR AWD w/FSD and white premium interior
I'm hoping someone will please tell me that the battery needs to sufficiently warm up before doing a 0-60 sprint. This morning I tested it again (I haven't really been able to test it much), but still using an app called drag racer...I know it's not that accurate, but I got a 4.5s time. It was about 2 minutes after I pulled out of my garage. It was a completely level road.
It's not only that, it definitely felt slower. I know, the butt dyno isn't always accurate, but this time I'm sure - it felt like 4.5s...which of course is ridiculous because I have the boost, and that's even slower than if I DIDN'T have the boost! So, I'll try not to be too upset about it, I'll chalk it up to the battery not being warmed up.
Now I'll just have to do a good bit more testing 0-60... I'm hoping it was just a fluke.
we'll see!
It's not only that, it definitely felt slower. I know, the butt dyno isn't always accurate, but this time I'm sure - it felt like 4.5s...which of course is ridiculous because I have the boost, and that's even slower than if I DIDN'T have the boost! So, I'll try not to be too upset about it, I'll chalk it up to the battery not being warmed up.
Now I'll just have to do a good bit more testing 0-60... I'm hoping it was just a fluke.
we'll see!I'm hoping someone will please tell me that the battery needs to sufficiently warm up before doing a 0-60 sprint. This morning I tested it again (I haven't really been able to test it much), but still using an app called drag racer...I know it's not that accurate, but I got a 4.5s time. It was about 2 minutes after I pulled out of my garage. It was a completely level road.
It's not only that, it definitely felt slower. I know, the butt dyno isn't always accurate, but this time I'm sure - it felt like 4.5s...which of course is ridiculous because I have the boost, and that's even slower than if I DIDN'T have the boost! So, I'll try not to be too upset about it, I'll chalk it up to the battery not being warmed up.
Now I'll just have to do a good bit more testing 0-60... I'm hoping it was just a fluke.
If you're really particular about the metrics of your 0-60 launches, you might as well just get the dragy. The app you're using is already inaccurate and it's already reinforcing whatever thoughts you have about the speed of your car.
I'm hoping someone will please tell me that the battery needs to sufficiently warm up before doing a 0-60 sprint. This morning I tested it again (I haven't really been able to test it much), but still using an app called drag racer...I know it's not that accurate, but I got a 4.5s time. It was about 2 minutes after I pulled out of my garage. It was a completely level road.
It's not only that, it definitely felt slower. I know, the butt dyno isn't always accurate, but this time I'm sure - it felt like 4.5s...which of course is ridiculous because I have the boost, and that's even slower than if I DIDN'T have the boost! So, I'll try not to be too upset about it, I'll chalk it up to the battery not being warmed up.
Now I'll just have to do a good bit more testing 0-60... I'm hoping it was just a fluke.
If your battery is in 70 degree ambient temps, it shouldn't be that slow. I could understand it being slower if its 40 degrees but summer temps don't seem to affect 0-60 that much. SoC is much more impactful to feel...were you fully charged?
That's the stupid thing - I'm only particular about it because I just want to be sure I actually got what I paid for. But yes, I'm also picky in general...so even if I did test it and got ~3.9s, but then got ~4.4s again at some point under similar conditions, it would really bother me. I bought the boost because I always want it to be that fast. It's not even really being picky, it's just asking for consistency in what I paid for.
I haven't charged fully since I bought it - the most I've gone is 90%, but in this case I was about 85%.
Last week I tried to get a more accurate time, so I literally opened up the stopwatch app on my phone, came to a complete stop and jammed it right as I hit the start timer...then of course, right when I hit 60 I stopped the timer. I know, not incredibly accurate, but that time it was 3.78s.
The inconsistency is what's annoying me right now... but then I'm being inconsistent myself with how I'm measuring too. All I know is this morning it felt noticeably slower.
Knightshade
Well-Known Member
Buy a consistent and accurate measuring device.
Unless or until you do so you're just wasting a lot of time and worrying without any basis for doing so.
Unless or until you do so you're just wasting a lot of time and worrying without any basis for doing so.
I agree with you. I guess the only reason why I haven't bought one already is because of all the bad reviews I've read about how it just stops working after a month or two. I don't care at this point - I'm just gonna buy one and take my chances.
Do you guys recommend the dragy over other devices?
For those considering the “undetectable” Ingenext Boost 50, it looks like Tesla can remotely detect it on the latest firmware.
Source: Any Boost50 buyers here? Just updated to 2020.32.2 and saw this message after the update. Other than the alert that hasn’t gone away I haven’t had any problems with driving - still am yet to visit a Supercharger though. : TeslaModel3
Source: Any Boost50 buyers here? Just updated to 2020.32.2 and saw this message after the update. Other than the alert that hasn’t gone away I haven’t had any problems with driving - still am yet to visit a Supercharger though. : TeslaModel3
Urbancowboy
Member
Knightshade
Well-Known Member
Oh look, turns out they could easily detect it.
IF ONLY SOMEONE HAD MENTIONED THAT AT THE TIME
IF ONLY SOMEONE HAD MENTIONED THAT AT THE TIME
Yeah, I don't care if it was even $50... you don't take your chances voiding the warranty or damaging a $50k+ car. Anyone that has done this mod literally wasn't thinking.
Was it even a question they would be able to?
Tesla can slow and obstruct now, but in the future there will be a large market for 3rd party management, service, and performance. Too much money to made once EVs are as numerous as ICE, and Tesla’s limited parts and service infrastructure will only expedite it.
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Android vs Apple. You see tons of Android phones hacked and changed but soon as something is vulnerable in Apple, they lock it down. Tesla is the same...they are going to lock it down every time. There is never going to be a large 3rd party option on software because they completely control the software and it’s always connected to their system. Future software builds are only going to lock it down even more.
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