What I’ve been trying to tell people is my honest opinion is that if your on the fence and your tight on cash it’s not worth it. To me it feels like another 5% free bump. It’s noticeable at 30-60+ mph but nowhere near the exhilaration and gut wrenching feeling you feel off the line 0-20 you get from a performance model. You naysayers and haters can disagree with me all you want but I’m trying to help people decide if it’s worth $2k if they have a budget and priorities like Urban. It’s worth it to me because I have the $2k to burn but I could live without it. My 2 cents.
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"Acceleration Boost" option, discussion as to which models and how much quicker
- Thread starter ModelNforNerd
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- Model 3 Tesla Inc.
Knightshade
Well-Known Member
I can't speak to how you feel- but it objectively measures as much quicker than one of the 5% bumps.
Each of those was 1-2 tenths of a second quicker 0-60. This is a full half second quicker.
Knightshade
Well-Known Member
I imagine same as any car-side software feature (including lifetime connectivity for those who have it)
It goes with the car in private party sale.
If you sell it back to Tesla they can remove it or not as they wish.
M109Rider
Active Member
Lots of controversy around Tesla removing software if they buy the car.
I don’t see the issue at all though.
If I buy a car from someone, and decide to remove any physical items or software, then re-sell it, that’s my option since it’s now my car.
Why should that be different for Tesla.
Once you buy a car from anyone, you can do what you want to it, then re-sell it.
The problem was Tesla went back after the sale and removed AP. You wouldn't want the former owner changing the 19" Sport wheels for the 18"s after you bought it.
As long as they do it while they have the car and disclose it fine. However there can be a problem if the original window sticker is left in the car since it would list FSD.
Knightshade
Well-Known Member
I expect what happened is they flagged the car for removing FSD when they owned it on the back end of their systems...but it didn't push that TO the car immediately because Tesla internal IT is a dumpster fire of systems that don't talk to each other.
The car was sold on a Friday (Nov 15) and FSD car-side was removed on Monday (Nov 18)
That either means it was done on the back end BEFORE the sale, or there's some very organized conspiracy of malice at Tesla.
Any theory that requires high organization from Tesla is clearly wrong.
So do you have draggy or Vbox results? I certainly don't think you're a troll but it doesn't make sense that the car is accelerating faster but you feel less push in the back. I suppose it's possible there's some adjustment or modulation of launch by the new firmware and that you were closer to the traction limits of the tire on launch and now somehow that's been backed off. But it's inconceivable to me that that's a single case result in other words that would have to be system-wide and that doesn't make sense either.
So this is a real head-scratcher.
Hence my question about Vbox and draggy. Always good to get objective data and they do measure launch Gs or at least I know for a fact that draggy does and plots it so you can actually see it.
After I bought Acceleration Boost and didn't sense much difference and thought it was inconsistent. I bought a Dragy and found that I was getting sub 3.9 constantly. Subjective feelings don't necessarily reflect objective facts.
jebinc
Well-Known Member
I noticed wet and/or cold roads/tires cause the traction control system to limit power as well. SoC has some, but not as much effect as traction control kicking in. YMMV.
I finally pulled the trigger after hemming and hawing for a while, and then I carried away testing...
Bottom line: Like most everyone, I can definitely feel a difference. The difference was more pronounced if I consciously tried not to tense up before hitting the pedal. It's a harder pull for sure and definitely feels more exhilarating. No regrets here!
I don't have a Dragy, so I did my testing with the Science Journal app on my Pixel phone which let's you record data from the accelerometers on the phone. The phone was clipped via USB into the charger during testing.
Testing setup:
I started at 90% charge and it was about 40 °F outside. I drove around a bit on local roads before testing, but still had 5 or so dots when starting testing, but by the last couple runs, there were no dots for both pre and post testing. With both pre and post, I started around 87% and ended testing around 81%.
I didn't have a great area to test, so I tested from a full stop at red lights on a local 4 lane road. Often, I was nervous about getting all the way to 60 and let off the pedal some towards the end.
I did my runs pre boost, charged to 90, bought the upgrade and did the runs post. I ended up with 5 runs pre and 11 post.
Results:
This is a box and whisker plot of the peak acceleration of my 5 pre, 11 post, and single run from a friend's P3D run.
This is the acceleration averaged across the runs. Again, 5 runs pre, 11 post.
Same data with the raw individual runs. Average for each are the thicker lines.
My takeaway is that AWD+ is closer to P3D than it is the AWD. After the boost, it accelerates with more force, hits the peak force faster, and maintains a lot like the P3D. Caveat here is that all I got was a single run on the P3D. Of note, there was no difference in the runs from 5 dots to 0 and no difference from 87% SoC and 81% Soc, but who knows what role the cold roads, battery warming and losing charge all played.
Hopefully this helps people make a decision. Stealth wasn't an option when I bought and this is the next best thing. Definitely happy with the purchase.
Bottom line: Like most everyone, I can definitely feel a difference. The difference was more pronounced if I consciously tried not to tense up before hitting the pedal. It's a harder pull for sure and definitely feels more exhilarating. No regrets here!
I don't have a Dragy, so I did my testing with the Science Journal app on my Pixel phone which let's you record data from the accelerometers on the phone. The phone was clipped via USB into the charger during testing.
Testing setup:
I started at 90% charge and it was about 40 °F outside. I drove around a bit on local roads before testing, but still had 5 or so dots when starting testing, but by the last couple runs, there were no dots for both pre and post testing. With both pre and post, I started around 87% and ended testing around 81%.
I didn't have a great area to test, so I tested from a full stop at red lights on a local 4 lane road. Often, I was nervous about getting all the way to 60 and let off the pedal some towards the end.
I did my runs pre boost, charged to 90, bought the upgrade and did the runs post. I ended up with 5 runs pre and 11 post.
Results:
This is a box and whisker plot of the peak acceleration of my 5 pre, 11 post, and single run from a friend's P3D run.
This is the acceleration averaged across the runs. Again, 5 runs pre, 11 post.
Same data with the raw individual runs. Average for each are the thicker lines.
My takeaway is that AWD+ is closer to P3D than it is the AWD. After the boost, it accelerates with more force, hits the peak force faster, and maintains a lot like the P3D. Caveat here is that all I got was a single run on the P3D. Of note, there was no difference in the runs from 5 dots to 0 and no difference from 87% SoC and 81% Soc, but who knows what role the cold roads, battery warming and losing charge all played.
Hopefully this helps people make a decision. Stealth wasn't an option when I bought and this is the next best thing. Definitely happy with the purchase.
SteveS1979
Member
I did this... Bought the upgrade as I drove off the lot. BUT Apparently the software on my (brand new 2020 LR) car does not support the accel boost. So they took my money, but 2 weeks later, I still haven't gotten the software update yet, so I still don't have the accel boost!
The service center basically just told me that I have to wait until the latest software is rolled out to my configuration... But no info was provided as to what m"configuration" means, or when that will be.
How odd. What version are you on? Did you go into the car software settings and click advanced? If you have, go to where your car has a WiFi connection for a while, go back to standard and then back to advanced. For me the instant I clicked purchase my car rebooted for the upgrade. It was wild. Good luck
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