TexasTeslaRacing
Member
My rear WhiteLine endlinks (KLC174) are beginning to squeak and so I will contact WhiteLine for replacement or refund. SPL makes a set I may try. Anyone else using Whiteline and hearing noise from the rear?
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My rear WhiteLine endlinks (KLC174) are beginning to squeak and so I will contact WhiteLine for replacement or refund. SPL makes a set I may try. Anyone else using Whiteline and hearing noise from the rear?
It might be too late now, but you can loosen those top 4 bolts for the upper suspension assembly and push it towards the center of the car for additional negative camber. The holes for those bolts are quite big. The 3 nuts for the dampers looked centered in their holes, which would indicate you can push the assembly in further!
Can anyone point to these bolts in a pic?
Thank you
Can anyone point to these bolts in a pic?
Thank you
For those people wanting to run SCCA ASP class I found a solution for the rear camber adjustment by slotting out the hole in the rear upper control arm. I used a mill to drill the second hole and then finished everything out with hand files. But you could probably just pay a machine shop $100-200 to replicate this if you didn't have the ability on your own. I also switched out the fastener to a 4" long 9/16-18 grade 18 bolt with extra thick grade 8 washers (actually 1/2 instead of 9/16). I can actually torque those much higher up to 170ft/lbs which gives about 18,000lbs of clamping force. I plan on marking the washer location and routinely checking for slippage. If it does slip I'll just weld the washer in place.
For the front there is a shop working on offset delrin bushings. When I get the prototypes from them I will post pics.
Here is a pic of the stock rear arm and my modified one:
View attachment 510266
Question. What are people seeing as far as time difference between 90% charge vs 50%
For any of you who need to add a rear tow hook for certain events like SLB, GTA, or Optima USCA we came up with an elegant solution. We are going through the right rear reflector. You do have to remove the bumper which only takes about 10 minutes and you have a really sturdy mounting point on an Aluminium post. Tuck the tow strap in when you're daily driving and then punch out the reflector when you're at the track!
Very nice, do you have any photo's with the bumper on?
How do you actually “punch out” the reflector? Pry it out from a particular edge? Then how to do you fish out the strap through the opening?Good thing about this install location is no need to drill. You reuse the bolt on the crash structure adapter plate. Easy peasy.
How do you actually “punch out” the reflector? Pry it out from a particular edge? Then how to do you fish out the strap through the opening?
New MPP spring arms arrived. Going on tomorrow sometime. I’ll report back on how the install goes.
Also 285/30/18 Hoosier A7’s arrived so maybe I can get them on the car in time for Sunday’s AutoX session. They look mean and fast.
Yes I'm particularly interested in those rear spring arms. Apparently they save about 12 pounds? Can you confirm that?
yes they save about 10-12lbs. I didn’t weight them but the new arms and springs were noticeably lighter.