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MASTER THREAD: Comprehensive Road-Course Modification Guide — Optimizing the 3 for the track

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My rear WhiteLine endlinks (KLC174) are beginning to squeak and so I will contact WhiteLine for replacement or refund. SPL makes a set I may try. Anyone else using Whiteline and hearing noise from the rear?

I use WhiteLine end links. No noise from the rear, but I get a clicking sound from the front when one side changes height suddenly like going over my driving on/off my sloped driveway to the street at an angle.
 
It might be too late now, but you can loosen those top 4 bolts for the upper suspension assembly and push it towards the center of the car for additional negative camber. The holes for those bolts are quite big. The 3 nuts for the dampers looked centered in their holes, which would indicate you can push the assembly in further!

Can anyone point to these bolts in a pic?
Thank you
 
Can anyone point to these bolts in a pic?
Thank you

It's the 4 bolts that hold the upper strut mount to the car.
Here's a pic of the overall assembly:
Front-Left-Shock-Absorber-Spring-Coil-Strut-RWD-1044090-00-A-Tesla-Model-3-2018-303203307760-4.JPG
 
For those people wanting to run SCCA ASP class I found a solution for the rear camber adjustment by slotting out the hole in the rear upper control arm. I used a mill to drill the second hole and then finished everything out with hand files. But you could probably just pay a machine shop $100-200 to replicate this if you didn't have the ability on your own. I also switched out the fastener to a 4" long 9/16-18 grade 18 bolt with extra thick grade 8 washers (actually 1/2 instead of 9/16). I can actually torque those much higher up to 170ft/lbs which gives about 18,000lbs of clamping force. I plan on marking the washer location and routinely checking for slippage. If it does slip I'll just weld the washer in place.

For the front there is a shop working on offset delrin bushings. When I get the prototypes from them I will post pics.

Here is a pic of the stock rear arm and my modified one:
20200210_204612.jpg
 
For those people wanting to run SCCA ASP class I found a solution for the rear camber adjustment by slotting out the hole in the rear upper control arm. I used a mill to drill the second hole and then finished everything out with hand files. But you could probably just pay a machine shop $100-200 to replicate this if you didn't have the ability on your own. I also switched out the fastener to a 4" long 9/16-18 grade 18 bolt with extra thick grade 8 washers (actually 1/2 instead of 9/16). I can actually torque those much higher up to 170ft/lbs which gives about 18,000lbs of clamping force. I plan on marking the washer location and routinely checking for slippage. If it does slip I'll just weld the washer in place.

For the front there is a shop working on offset delrin bushings. When I get the prototypes from them I will post pics.

Here is a pic of the stock rear arm and my modified one:
View attachment 510266

How much extra negative camber do you believe this will provide?
 
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New MPP spring arms arrived. Going on tomorrow sometime. I’ll report back on how the install goes.

Also 285/30/18 Hoosier A7’s arrived so maybe I can get them on the car in time for Sunday’s AutoX session. They look mean and fast.
 

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For any of you who need to add a rear tow hook for certain events like SLB, GTA, or Optima USCA we came up with an elegant solution. We are going through the right rear reflector. You do have to remove the bumper which only takes about 10 minutes and you have a really sturdy mounting point on an Aluminium post. Tuck the tow strap in when you're daily driving and then punch out the reflector when you're at the track!
 

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For any of you who need to add a rear tow hook for certain events like SLB, GTA, or Optima USCA we came up with an elegant solution. We are going through the right rear reflector. You do have to remove the bumper which only takes about 10 minutes and you have a really sturdy mounting point on an Aluminium post. Tuck the tow strap in when you're daily driving and then punch out the reflector when you're at the track!

Very nice, do you have any photo's with the bumper on?
 
PSA, the coils which came with my sport coilovers are are too large and will not fit the new Spring Arms. You MUST order new rear coils AND pads for the MPP Spring Arms. The new springs are same spring rate as the old ones, 110nm or 628lbs.
 

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Very nice, do you have any photo's with the bumper on?

Good thing about this install location is no need to drill. You reuse the bolt on the crash structure adapter plate. Easy peasy.
 

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How do you actually “punch out” the reflector? Pry it out from a particular edge? Then how to do you fish out the strap through the opening?

you can pry it out going left to right with any soft plastic tool. The bumper is so close to the adapter plate I don’t believe you can tuck this style strap behind the reflector. For right now the strap hangs out.
 

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New MPP spring arms arrived. Going on tomorrow sometime. I’ll report back on how the install goes.

Also 285/30/18 Hoosier A7’s arrived so maybe I can get them on the car in time for Sunday’s AutoX session. They look mean and fast.

Yes I'm particularly interested in those rear spring arms. Apparently they save about 12 pounds? Can you confirm that?