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MASTER THREAD: Comprehensive Road-Course Modification Guide — Optimizing the 3 for the track

I just bled my brakes in this order: RR - LR - RF - LF (used almost 2L of ATE200) - pedal feels firm, but should I go back and bleed them in the opposite direction? LF - RF - LR - RR? Used a pressure bleeder system around 15-20 psi.

Installed stainless lines and unplugged pads. 2021 Model 3 Performance.
Nope, sounds like you did it right the first time.
 

Mash

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I just bled my brakes in this order: RR - LR - RF - LF (used almost 2L of ATE200) - pedal feels firm, but should I go back and bleed them in the opposite direction? LF - RF - LR - RR? Used a pressure bleeder system around 15-20 psi.

Installed stainless lines and unplugged pads. 2021 Model 3 Performance.
Engage abs few times on the road since you don't have an access to the service toolbox. Just in case.
 
Hi everyone, I am tracking my M3P 2020, after few heavy track events my Drive shafts CV joints started to make weird clicking noise during turns. Tesla has replaced them once with new. Now after another GP track event i have experienced same issue with brand new drive shaft.

CV joints drive shaft noise
Getting CV oil in the hub, clicking noise under side load from both front hub or drive shaft CV bearings.
Running:
275/35R19 Michelin Cup2
MPP FUCA and Camber Arms, sealed bearings for lower control and trailing arms.
Eibach Lowered springs and Swaybars.
GyroDisk brakes on Carbotech XP10 pads.
Car runs solid but appeared excessive noise from DriveShafts made it uncomfortable to push to the limit.
Anyone faced with this issue?

P.S checked hub nut and suspension with motor brackets , all torqued within specs.
Could be worn wheel bearings - the Corvette guys only get 1-2 event out of their front wheel bearings
 
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Hi all, I'm looking at upgrading my M3P for regular track duty with a full set of parts from either UP or MPP (still sorting through some of the details). What would you recommend for wheel/tire size? I'd like to be able to swap the track wheels and the stock 20" uber turbines without having to reset the whole suspension.. not sure if that is a realistic expectation. One recommendation I got was 265/35R19's on 19x9.5 wheels. Thoughts?
 
Definitely interested in laptimes. What would you recommend in that case and what additional mods would be required?
This very much depends on your previous track experience and what you are willing to spend. If money is no object 275/40r18 A052's with the camber arms to go with them is probably the easiest way to drop seconds, But if you are not confident that you can drive at the limit these tires would be wasted. I've heard good things about the Goodyear supercar3 tires for longer life and decent lap times.

So, what do you want to do? Are you the type to buy it all at once or steadily upgrade as your skills progress?
 

Mash

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This very much depends on your previous track experience and what you are willing to spend. If money is no object 275/40r18 A052's with the camber arms to go with them is probably the easiest way to drop seconds, But if you are not confident that you can drive at the limit these tires would be wasted. I've heard good things about the Goodyear supercar3 tires for longer life and decent lap times.

So, what do you want to do? Are you the type to buy it all at once or steadily upgrade as your skills progress?
With camber arms you can fit 295x35 r18 a052.
 
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With camber arms you can fit 295x35 r18 a052.
I figured that was a little more than what he's asking for when he mentioned not wanting to mess with it much. 18x10.5's are not exactly plug and play and definitely need a ton of camber that will not be street tire friendly. The 275 A052 is probably the easiest thing to throw on and set fast laps, even with stock suspension.
 
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Mash

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I figured that was a little more than what he's asking for when he mentioned not wanting to mess with it much. 18x10.5's are not exactly plug and play and definitely need a ton of camber that will not be street tire friendly. The 275 A052 is probably the easiest thing to throw on and set fast laps, even with stock suspension.
As soon as you propose a052 - it's not street friendly by any means. And if you also add camber arms (which you absolutely need with a052), then go for 295 35 18 already, because it's proven proper solution.

And, yeah, at this point you already looking for adjustable suspension, because otherwise its ridiculously soft for those tires. I don't see a point of different size a052 for this car with stock front fenders.

Anything higher traction than 4s rubber is very seriously not street friendly. 275 is a good size for 4s.
 
As soon as you propose a052 - it's not street friendly by any means. And if you also add camber arms (which you absolutely need with a052), then go for 295 35 18 already, because it's proven proper solution.

And, yeah, at this point you already looking for adjustable suspension, because otherwise its ridiculously soft for those tires. I don't see a point of different size a052 for this car with stock front fenders.

Anything higher traction than 4s rubber is very seriously not street friendly. 275 is a good size for 4s.
He asked for a track specific tire that he would be swapping to with minimal changes from street. This was the basis for my recommendation. 295's are not exactly a bolt on solution, sure it is the optimal but maybe he doesn't want to go that far with modifications. He'll need to elaborate more on his needs.
 
He asked for a track specific tire that he would be swapping to with minimal changes from street. This was the basis for my recommendation. 295's are not exactly a bolt on solution, sure it is the optimal but maybe he doesn't want to go that far with modifications. He'll need to elaborate more on his needs.

Wanted to circle back and thank everyone for the help. I'm leaning
He asked for a track specific tire that he would be swapping to with minimal changes from street. This was the basis for my recommendation. 295's are not exactly a bolt on solution, sure it is the optimal but maybe he doesn't want to go that far with modifications. He'll need to elaborate more on his needs.
Thanks everyone for the help. I’m leaning toward just doing it right the first time. Changing camber for a track day doesn’t look like a big deal. I’ll probably go with 275’s for now.
 
Its tough cuz the ideal end-game for M3P is going to be 305's on 19" wheels with BBK and motor cooling mods.
Will take some time to get there so you're doing it right.
Except this isn't really the ideal either, just depends on ones budget, time, and willingness to cut up their tesla into a race car. 315's I are the endgame, but need wide fenders. The endgame for everyone is different, the sooner you figure out where the end should be the more time and money you'll save :p
 
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Damn 315's, haven't come across that setup yet.
At what point do the fenders need modding?
295's need some pulling already, but depends on the model of tire. Not all 295's are the same width, just like any other tire. I believe 305's and larger are starting to require a modified wide fender or cut the fender and add flares. @MasterC17 or @Mash would probably know better. I'm still on 275's.
 
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295's need some pulling already, but depends on the model of tire. Not all 295's are the same width, just like any other tire. I believe 305's and larger are starting to require a modified wide fender or cut the fender and add flares. @MasterC17 or @Mash would probably know better. I'm still on 275's.
295 A052's should bolt on without any fender modifications, given you have -2.5+ degrees of camber and are running extremely tight clearances with the knuckle. 305's will need the fenders slightly tugged on and likely spaced out slightly by adjusting the 10mm bolts, and possibly some small knuckle grinding.

That being said, not all tires are the same width despite what the manufacturer stamps. Ultimately, look at tread width as the most important factor. The aforementioned 295 A052 has 11" of tread width.
 

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