Did you manage to get more camber in the end? I'm also getting less than expected with the MPP arms.
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MASTER THREAD: Comprehensive Road-Course Modification Guide — Optimizing the 3 for the track
- Thread starter MasterC17
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Did you manage to get more camber in the end? I'm also getting less than expected with the MPP arms.
Sadly we couldn't make the FUCA's any shorter without compromising suspension travel and contacting the chassis under full compression! You can try slotting the holes on the strut towers that the upper suspension assembly bolts to, but you need to keep an eye on the clearance of the arm at full compression. We removed the springs from the dampers and did full sweeps during development to make sure we maximized the travel of the arm. Imagine if the arm wasn't curved, it would contact the chassis much sooner!
That's understandable, but how do get the figure of -3.5 with no shims in your installation guide? Is that actually possible or was that based on a prototype arm?
That is the number we got when running our track ride height using a camber gauge with the production arm.
We usually stay around 100mm, but it depends on the track we are going to!
From the ground to the battery at each corner near the jack point
Anyone ever looked into a staggered setup with track mode v2?
Probably can't fit more than 275, 285 up front even with flared fenders/offset, but certainly could get real wide tires in the back (315? 335?). With track mode v2 letting you change power distribution to compensate for the oversteer, would it overall provide a performance increase with the increased grip budget?
Probably can't fit more than 275, 285 up front even with flared fenders/offset, but certainly could get real wide tires in the back (315? 335?). With track mode v2 letting you change power distribution to compensate for the oversteer, would it overall provide a performance increase with the increased grip budget?
Not a performance increase over square setup with a full power on both motors. You realize that this power ratio is done by decreasing power on one of the motors, right? And in your case you want to decrease rear motor power...
One tires of what diameter at what tire pressures? Is there a table somewhere how to translate this measure to a fender-to-hubcenter measurements reliably? I'm lowered about 1.25in and fitting the arms some time next week. Would like to hear more about clearances.
It only changes power distribution in turns right? At least for autocross, speed is grip. Most of the courses you can't fully utilize the performance from both motors anyway before you hit grip limit. Changing the ratio would be just to balance the oversteer, the question is with the increased grip the larger tires gave you would it be offset by the oversteer issues of running staggered?
TexasTeslaRacing
Member
MPP Master Cylinder Brace Install was very easy less than 15 minutes if you know what you’re doing and have the exact tools available. Brake feel is the same on the street but under harder braking on the track its maybe 2-3% more firm. Be sure not to overly preload the adjuster against the master cylinder.
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How much DID you get? I just installed mine and barely getting 2.4 degrees with no shims (and with OEM fuca mount bolts shoved all the way in toward the center). I'm also lowered about 1.25" (measured fender to the center of the wheel). The battery-to-ground measurement is not a good way to uniformly measure the ride height, but I'm around 112mm up front, on 265/40/18 tires at 40psi.
I would double check the FUCA Mounts (adjust them with the tire off/no load on the mounts) and the FLCA Bolts. There is about .5 degree in the mounts, and maybe .25 degrees in the FLCA. If you adjust both of these, you should be able to get -2.75 degrees with no shims.
TexasTeslaRacing
Member
I think everyone agrees the most negative camber you can get is about -2.9 with a ride height of about 100-105mm. There is just no way to get more camber.
I finally had my first crack in tracking this car. Let me start by saying this car is bloody fast and you really don’t feel it given how quiet it is. There is a lot of grip and a lot of braking power available. You can run a really fast lap without much effort.
Here is the bad part. What I said above is true for maybe 2 laps, above that everything from brakes motor power and tires just overheat and ruin it. I went from going 100mph going 80mph as the battery temps turns orange. Also driving to supercharger to charge After each session gets old.
Here is the bad part. What I said above is true for maybe 2 laps, above that everything from brakes motor power and tires just overheat and ruin it. I went from going 100mph going 80mph as the battery temps turns orange. Also driving to supercharger to charge After each session gets old.
Half a degree from the fuca mount bolts seems optimistic, it's more like 0.2, there's only a couple of mm of play tops w/o enlarging bolt holes. And it has been done already.
I have not played with the lower lateral link, mostly because it's already a pain to tighten stuff at ride height. Where is the play? At the hub side or the subframe side?
Also, having trouble making sure the tires don't rub on the sensor wire. I'm supposed to pass some of the slack in the wire due to narrower FUCAs toward the body, correct?
It's on the subframe side. Loosen the bolts up slightly, push the arm towards the outside of the car, and tighten.
On the mounts, I think it's about half a degree from full in to full out, so about a quarter degree from center. It's not much, but better than nothing.
Definitely pass the wire through and zip tie after the part where it would normally be attached to (the rubber sleeve) is through. I ate one of the wheel speed sensors trying to attach to the factory location and had to do some emergency surgery.
What was the ambient temperature? I've found under 60f the car does not seem to overheat at all. My event last weekend was about 90f and I was overheating after about 3 full laps.
What pads are you running? The Carbotech's in my wife's car held up fine to the abuse, despite triggering the overheating warning multiple times, I never felt like I was going to lose them. Tires are of course going to act the same on any car, though I am curious which you are running.
As far as charging is concerned, it sucks, but it is what it is. VIR had a Chademo onsite which was awesome, I could fully charge between sessions, then it broke and they never fixed it. I've been running a hacked up HPWC at 48 amps on a NEMA 14-50 and it gets me through the weekend.
EDIT: Also, just to be sure, you turned the cabin HVAC OFF while on-track? I forgot once and the battery overheated almost immediately.
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