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MASTER THREAD: Comprehensive Road-Course Modification Guide — Optimizing the 3 for the track

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Is that 10 to 12 lb a corner or combined?
I installed them yesterday and it was exactly 6lbs savings per side

Stock arms + MPP coilover springs: 26.4lbs total
MPP arms + MPP narrow springs: 14.4lbs total
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I installed them yesterday and it was exactly 6lbs savings per side

Stock arms + MPP coilover springs: 26.4lbs total
MPP arms + MPP narrow springs: 14.4lbs total
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View attachment 517254

Nice! Was that a fairly easy install? Did you notice any increase in noise vibration or harshness? I've got to install the trailing and traction arms but I may wait until I can do the whole thing.
 
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Nice! Was that a fairly easy install? Did you notice any increase in noise vibration or harshness? I've got to install the trailing and traction arms but I may wait until I can do the whole thing.
About 1 hour per side, pretty easy. Feels exactly the same as before, however I stuffed some packing foam under each spring to avoid metal on metal contact and hopefully reduce NVH.
 
Not much to do today so why not install the Maier Racing 7” rear spoiler? Easy install with the enclosed adhesion promoter and 3M double sided tape. About an hour from start to finish. Once it’s on it will not come off. You got one chance so make it right. Can’t wait to get back on the track/course.
 

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Not much to do today so why not install the Maier Racing 7” rear spoiler? Easy install with the enclosed adhesion promoter and 3M double sided tape. About an hour from start to finish. Once it’s on it will not come off. You got one chance so make it right. Can’t wait to get back on the track/course.
I understand that this is the same spoiler that MPP was using on their car and now they moving to a full wing, right?
Tesla-Model-3-MPP-Wing-Rear.jpg
 
I understand that this is the same spoiler that MPP was using on their car and now they moving to a full wing, right?
Tesla-Model-3-MPP-Wing-Rear.jpg
Model-3-Carmel-By-The-Sea.jpg


We tested it first at BRP without the gurney flap, then at Laguna with the flap. The car was quite balanced with the Maier front lip and spoiler. The wing will require a proper front splitter now.
 
Model-3-Carmel-By-The-Sea.jpg


We tested it first at BRP without the gurney flap, then at Laguna with the flap. The car was quite balanced with the Maier front lip and spoiler. The wing will require a proper front splitter now.
Great info. Did you also try UPP aero? I'm puzzled why Maier never did CFD to properly compete with UPP?

It's very important to add that full wing must be accompanied with frontal downforce increase, otherwise, it pushes car disproportionately out of balance at speed. And needless to say that while it's possible to live daily life with a large rear wing, it requires horribly impractical front splitter and ride height.

Also, high downforce aero makes track racing more dangerous. Not by few times, but danger increase is there. Losing a high downforce wing is not very hard - it's under a lot of stress - 2000 pounds of force breaks *sugar*. And more often when not it instantly makes car dangerously unstable and ending up in a crash.

So I would even question whether it is sane to be used in amateur racing. But, then, racing is not about sanity altogether. If I had an option to put splitter, wing, tires, pads all within 30 minutes working alone in the paddock only with the stuff I brought there, I would go for that. Otherwise, it has to be a fully dedicated race car where my Evo would just beat model 3 anyway.
 
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Great info. Did you also try UPP aero? I'm puzzled why Maier never did CFD to properly compete with UPP?

It's very important to add that full wing must be accompanied with frontal downforce increase, otherwise it pushes car disproportionate out of balance at speed. And needless to say that while it's possible to live daily life with a large rear wing, it requires horribly impractical front splitter ride height.

Also, high downforce aero makes track racing more dangerous. Not by few times, but danger increase is there. Losing high downforce wing is not very hard - it's under a lot of stress. And more often when not it instantly makes car dangerously unstable.

So I would even question whether it is sane to be used in amateur racing. But, then, racing is not about sanity altogether. If I had an option to put splitter, wing, tires, pads all within 30 minutes working alone in the paddock only with the stuff I brought there, I would go for that. Otherwise it has to be a full dedicated race car where my Evo would just beat model 3 anyway.

That's why I went with the UPP products. They have data to back it up, they aren't over the top, and look good too. I think it's a reasonable middle ground. Personally, the Maier stuff is just too much for a car that is still street driven considering they cannot be easily removed.
 
Hope everyone is safe out there. We've added quite a few things to our website in recent months that would be useful to the discussion. Here's a recap of some of it.
1. We released our more affordable racing coilovers that come in below $3000. We wanted a more affordable set of coilovers that can set lap records and we found that our Penske external reservoir 2 way adjustable set was just more money than most people wanted to spend (fair enough). So we developed this lower cost set which is just as fast and put them on two record setting cars to validate. We've set lap records on them (along with our sway bars and adjustable suspension arms) with a 1:54.6 run at Buttonwillow Raceway and a 1:03.3 run on street tires at Tsukuba Circuit in Japan. Oh, and to round out our coilover offerings on the high end we also released a (very expensive) 3 way Penske external reservoir set.
Coilover info:
Race Spec Coilover Suspension Kit for Tesla Model 3
Lap record info:
Buttonwillow: Tesla Model 3 with Unplugged Performance parts breaks twin track records in CA speedway
Tsukuba: Watch Tesla Model 3 modded by Unplugged Performance beat McLaren F1's time at famous racetrack - Electrek

Other racing related news from UP
- More CFD testing has been completed and tooling machined for more dry carbon aero parts (downforce focused items)
- Our bolt in track day harness bar/roll bar system is now up on the website for sale with first round of inventory arriving this month. After the initial install it can bolt in/out in less than 5 minutes with one person and stores flat in the garage between track days. It is a pretty neat product and a result of 3D scanning and modeling the interior of the car and months of CAD development and prototype testing to get it dialed in perfectly. It also pairs well with our Willans collaboration FIA approved racing harnesses and our upcoming bucket seat program.
Unplugged Performance Bolt-In Harness Bar for Model 3
- Finally we've received limited inventory of our racing rear wing we developed in CFD and had our longtime partners at Voltex Japan produce for us. This is our "medium" level for downforce and is suitable for daily driving with adjustable attack angle and not a drastic hit on range. This will pair well with modest front aero that can be left on for street use. We are in development of our race only in CFD now that'll be coming later and that will not be something advised for street use.
Unplugged Ascension-R Carbon Fiber Rear Wing for Tesla Model 3 by Voltex for Tesla Model 3 - Unplugged Performance
- Some new stuff is in the works with our tire partner Michelin that we are testing with them. More on that later.
 
Has anyone ran races without the frunk installed? The MCS coilovers would require holes in the frunk liner or taking it in / out to adjust the fronts. Figured I would just run without the frunk (keeping the air vents plastic though)
Yeah, you can, I plan to take out frunk tray, rear seats for weight savings on track.
 
Has anyone ran races without the frunk installed? The MCS coilovers would require holes in the frunk liner or taking it in / out to adjust the fronts. Figured I would just run without the frunk (keeping the air vents plastic though)

You can adjust MPP coilovers without drilling holes. You'll need to only remove the air duct cover and gently lift the frunk top ends. Found this out after the fact.