Why not just go with 265/40/18's? I actually prefer the Federal 595RS-PRO's over the Hankook RS4's, FWIW.
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MASTER THREAD: Comprehensive Road-Course Modification Guide — Optimizing the 3 for the track
- Thread starter MasterC17
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Why not just go with 265/40/18's? I actually prefer the Federal 595RS-PRO's over the Hankook RS4's, FWIW.
I meant to paste this, but forgot when I compare a second hotlap to first hotlap
This is my issue with the car. If I don't get a clear track on lap 1, I know my power would be compromised (Red is 2nd hotlap green is 1st). With a car as fast as the Model 3, it's way too easy to catch up and be blocked by people. It's like playing Russian roulette, you just don't know what you are going to get. I remember pacing myself for a lap to get space and lower battery temp later in the session, but the battery turned orange as soon as I got on the front straight and I was down 30% in SOC. There was no point.
This is the 2nd lap vs 6th lap. I spent 2 laps prior cooling the car/brakes and avoiding traffic. I need to dig up the SOC info, but I bet I was at about 50-60%
This is my issue with the car. If I don't get a clear track on lap 1, I know my power would be compromised (Red is 2nd hotlap green is 1st). With a car as fast as the Model 3, it's way too easy to catch up and be blocked by people. It's like playing Russian roulette, you just don't know what you are going to get. I remember pacing myself for a lap to get space and lower battery temp later in the session, but the battery turned orange as soon as I got on the front straight and I was down 30% in SOC. There was no point.
This is the 2nd lap vs 6th lap. I spent 2 laps prior cooling the car/brakes and avoiding traffic. I need to dig up the SOC info, but I bet I was at about 50-60%
In addition to the SoC data for those two laps, it would be interesting to know the battery and inverter temperatures for them as well.
More sidewall flex compared to a 35 is bad for my preferred autosport (autocross)
Also due to the extra rubber feel like 265-40-18 would be heavier than 265-35-19. Tirerack has the 265-35-19 RE71R listed at 27 lbs, but the 265-40-18 RS4 listed at 28 lbs
For autocross, certainly. It's trivial to cause traction control to kick in and not let you apply power. Still fun.
For a road course, the main issue the lack of over clocked cooling making the motor overheat.
I believe MPP is making a party box to disable traction control, not sure about the cooling part.
It will probably start overheating after 2 or 3 laps. You can drive in to pit lane and let it cool down for a minute and that should get you another 2 to 3 laps before it begins to overheat again.
You just drove better at the later laps. The car simply has more HP at high SOC, it will be faster as long as you drive the same. I don't know if the big power drop was from battery temp or lower SOC, but the difference is there.
To put it in visually, you can see on my phone what the gap is between my first lap vs my second lap. Every time I hit a straight away, my gap shrinks even though I drove better through the corners.
Hmm, it looks like the battery was orange almost immediately into the lap. Power should be pretty consistent from 100%-70%, I'm pretty sure your power loss was attributed to overheating. What was ambient temp and humidity?
Also, are you "pre-cooling" the battery by turning Track Mode on 10 minutes before your session? If not, I bet that will help you quite a bit.
it was about 80F, 40 humidity, I did leave my AC on, yes I did precool the battery in track mode. I am sure I can get more power back by having the temp down. Still, 20HP is 20HP, all things equal, it's nearly impossible to make up that time difference unless you drive better
AtomicNucleus
Member
Thanks for the info! Did you lower the suspension on your car? If so, was there a notable improvement in efficiency and handling? Thanks!
Here are my fastest LR RWD laps with and without the MPP Partybox. Disabling the nannies makes a significant difference.
I installed the dorman 610-490 extended wheel studs all around in preparation for 18x11 wheels. The fronts are super easy, the rears were tricky. It seemed like there was only one spot where you can get the longer ones in and out and I had to grind a flat onto them as well. The picture shows the correct orientation for the hub. To start the stud it has to go up into that pocket angled down into the hub.
Yeah the rear was a pain. I was able to sneak them through without angling them down, but it wasn't easy. A stud that is 5mm shorter would be a much more simple installation.
If someone is looking for a project one thing the community could use would be a directory of race tracks and what plugs are available there. Like plugshare but race track specific. Not what is nearby but what's actually at the track and where. Recently I came across some nonstandard plugs at Bristol and COTA.
Are you sure that is true? They offer RV camping with 30 amp electrical hookups. So yeah if you plugged in without asking then that makes sense they would unplug you. But I am sure you could pay for an RV spot.
In general don't plug in at a track without asking.
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