MASTER THREAD: Comprehensive Road-Course Modification Guide — Optimizing the 3 for the track

[Vines]

Mine is a 2018 Model 3 Performance with about 29K miles.

I'm planning to do a HPDE at Grattan Raceway in Michigan in late April. I will Supercharge only at lunchtime, which will require ~2 hours including drive time. So, I'll probably get 3 20-minute sessions each day. I can run 1, 2 or 3 days - it's my call on that.

I'm not willing to completely demolish the OEM PS4 tires, meaning I'll stop running if I see they're about to chunk.

I'm getting stainless steel brake lines and will install new Castrol SRF fluid.

Those of you who have actually run on the track, do you think I can get by with the OEM brake pads given the above conditions?

Keep the PS4 pressures at 36 at the lowest, they do not like low pressures and will chunk fast.
The stock pads are ok on the track but are not track pads they are EV pads and if you are replacing fluid I'd do pads too. If you use them hard you will cook them, though you will get warnings. I recommend the Unplugged pads a good street/track combo. There are also many other compounds that may be cheaper. Its $600 well spent imo.

The rears are actually quite stressed simply because of how hard they work as the E-diff.

Have a blast and know that if you engage track mode you absolutely can lose control. Be ready for that and slowly find the limits if you don't have much track experience. At Laguna Seca I forgot that the last time I used track mode I put it on "Drift Mode"

When I engaged track mode I missed that the sliders were set to -10 TC and full rear bias. I promptly spun and puckered myself.

 

[Dangerous Fish]

The stock pads are a waste of time. I wouldn't bother with Unplugged pads.
Get some tried and tested compounds such as RB XT970 or Carbotech, otherwise you're going to waste your day.

 

[Mash]

Mine is a 2018 Model 3 Performance with about 29K miles.

I'm planning to do a HPDE at Grattan Raceway in Michigan in late April. I will Supercharge only at lunchtime, which will require ~2 hours including drive time. So, I'll probably get 3 20-minute sessions each day. I can run 1, 2 or 3 days - it's my call on that.

I'm not willing to completely demolish the OEM PS4 tires, meaning I'll stop running if I see they're about to chunk.

I'm getting stainless steel brake lines and will install new Castrol SRF fluid.

Those of you who have actually run on the track, do you think I can get by with the OEM brake pads given the above conditions?

Stock pads and tires are going to be a problem. 4S is very soft and gets hot fast. But stock size of it is miserable for the weight and power. I destroyed them way faster than stock pads. It sounds tempting to be careful, but I don't see it's possible to be that careful enough. I was getting them +20psi vs hot - it's too low cold and too high hot within the same session with cool down laps.

 

[SK360]

265/35/19 RE71R are an absolute steal right now on tirerack so that’s the direction I’m going this season. Also just ordered 19x10 +35 MRR M600’s (same wheel @Rexpelagi runs, flow formed 24lbs) which are also on closeout due to the style being discontinued by MRR. Should be a good upgrade over my 255/40/18 on 18x8.5

With the wheels and tires both being on closeout I’m $1580 out of pocket for the setup. Figured I couldn’t beat that.

 

[MarcG]

265/35/19 RE71R are an absolute steal right now on tirerack

Saw that, but it says “2018 production”. Any clue what that means?

 

[SK360]

Saw that, but it says “2018 production”. Any clue what that means?

Probably are 3 years old. But stored properly (Tirerack does this I’m sure) and not being heat cycled I wouldn’t worry about it.

 

[mcbarnet007]

the ones I got have DoT of 2018 49th week. Not too bad.

 

[Mash]

Unfortunately, rubber is losing felixibility not only from temperature, but from oxygen as well. Especially very soft rubber. Unless it's stored without oxygen access, it will become harder over time. I had barely used R888 and they became zero grip bricks after 5 years.

 

[mcbarnet007]

If it's brand new, it will last longer because of the mold release that's on top of the rubber coming out of the factory.

 

[MasterC17]

The Hankook RS4's I bought last year were a 2018 production date that I used in 2020. I didn't think it would be a big deal, but either the RS4's are basically like driving on a rock until they are HOT (like 2-3 laps) or their age was showing - maybe a little bit of both; I was NOT impressed with that tire. I'm normally one to look for a deal, but I don't think I would buy old DOT tires again. Just my two cents.

 

[SK360]

Luckily a tire engineer from Bridgestone is hidden among us here and told me before I ordered....

“Ya should be fine, it becomes more of an issue if it's heat cycled first”

Not too worried about it, will be fine for parking lots

The Hankook RS4's I bought last year were a 2018 production date that I used in 2020. I didn't think it would be a big deal, but either the RS4's are basically like driving on a rock until they are HOT (like 2-3 laps) or their age was showing - maybe a little bit of both; I was NOT impressed with that tire. I'm normally one to look for a deal, but I don't think I would buy old DOT tires again. Just my two cents.

I think that’s normal for RS4’s. A local guy runs 265 RS4’s on wider wheels and I beat him easily all season on 255 RE’s on my skinny wheels. Then he got a codriver/tire warmer for the last event and gapped me by a good amount.

 

[superflyrolla]

Tire Rack had the same deal on 2017 245/40/19 RE71Rs last year, so I ran those. They were awesome for autocross, so I didn't hesitate to jump on those 2018 265/35/19s this year. I don't have a direct comparison to the 2020, so take my comment for what it's worth.

 

[SK360]

Date code 5118 and 4618. Not bad.

 

[MarcG]

Ok I’ve been convinced! New set of RE71Rs ordered (even though my current set only has 2 track days in them..)

 

[mcbarnet007]

Looks like they're out

 

[Ravire]

Quick question what rear pads should I get that would be a good combo for the mpp track pads I have in the front? Mostly street driving on twisty roads but I want it to be usable on the track as well. Seen a lot of options people use and don’t know what to go with.

 

[MoreAgain]

Quick question what rear pads should I get that would be a good combo for the mpp track pads I have in the front?

I've had good results with UnPlugged rear pads with MPP front track pads and rotors.

 

[Ravire]

I've had good results with UnPlugged rear pads with MPP front track pads and rotors.

That’s what I was thinking because I’m going to unplugged on Monday anyways

 

[Vines]

That’s what I was thinking because I’m going to unplugged on Monday anyways

I'm quite happy with my unplugged pads, except the small rattle due to lack of spring clips. I plan on using high temp double side tape to stick them to the pistons and the calipers, next time I go into the brakes that far.

 

[Lunares]

Unplugged pads are almost twice the price of carbotech (XP12/XP10). Do they actually perform worth the price?

Any other pad the consensus for best track pad lately?