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MASTER THREAD: Comprehensive Road-Course Modification Guide — Optimizing the 3 for the track

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curious what CST is? is it a made up class - cali street tire? think ASP or SM (booster brace puts you there) are our classes (besides SS/SSR)

-interesting bolsters, I'd think your harness isn't tight enough if your legs are sliding though?(/ use both feet! you'll be quicker )
MPP arm locks will never move. ..glad you had some concern and sold them though ;)
Front Sway bars - Eibach front has 3 holes too /same adjustability and size as UP. Rear - UPP makes the biggest bar.
the front Eibach does not really walk but definitely replace end links- stock are junk and don't last.
cheap 18"x10.5" - Koni dekagram 19lb (pretty sure they fit over P caliper? think there are some in this thread or the AM wheel threads))
Zextraterrestrial,
CSP- It's a catch all that requires no better than 200TW tires. It'll be gone this year and we'll move to XA.
Thanks for the info about the booster brace, I didn't know that.
That bolster gets some funny looks. But it works well! I like my harness to be tight around the waist, a little loose on the shoulders. The issue I had was not being able to anchor my knee against the door. The bolster cures that.
My MPP arm locks never moved and they were slightly easier to adjust than my UP's. Those were just my thoughts.
My Rear Eibach swaybar only had two holes for adjustment, UP's rear had three. Eibach & UP's both had three holes in the front bar. Thanks for the tip on the front links. (Do the White line links hold up? Do you have a suggestion?).
The Koenig Dekagrams you mentioned in 18x10.5 offer a 35-40 offset? AM wheel thread?

Thanks again for the info.
 
@mparsons very cool write up. Thanks for spending the time to do it. I should be seeing you around soon. I'm up in Vegas and what you are building is close to the one I'm spreadsheet building right now. I was surprised to read your experience with the UP race coil overs to the MPP ones. Do you still daily drive the car or is it more of a dedicated AX/weekend car? My car gets here in June and will promptly get a few mods right off the bat. I'm assuming XA will become a bonafide class next year? Are you headed to Nationals in ASP?
To be clear, I'm currently running mostly UP equipment. Yes, it's my daily driver. Yes, I'll be switching to the XA class next year. Yes, I'm doing the Fontana Champ Tour this weekend. Unfortunately, I'll be running AO52's since I didn't plan on entering the ASP class but that's where I ended up.
 
@mparsons
sry/ Aftermarket wheels thread
but here is where I probably saw them -
+25Et.
I got SPP sway bar links. they probably go best aesthetically with all the UP stuff too ;)
 
If we do see a true Rally Sport model 3 with tri Motors and in a different League of performance I'm pretty sure that won't be until 2024 or 2025
It won't be same as Model S Plaid+ straight line performance, but there is no better way to shift 4680 tech down to Model 3 rather than doing new flagship. So I believe it's 3-6 month after Plaid+
 
Well we'll see. I think that's optimistic but I hope you're right. I'm skeptical in part because its release right after a plaid Model S tri-motor would take sales away from the flagship and I don't think they're going to do that. I do think it's probably at least a year after that that the technology might migrate downward to model 3. But who knows
 
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Zextraterrestrial,
CSP- It's a catch all that requires no better than 200TW tires. It'll be gone this year and we'll move to XA.
Thanks for the info about the booster brace, I didn't know that.
That bolster gets some funny looks. But it works well! I like my harness to be tight around the waist, a little loose on the shoulders. The issue I had was not being able to anchor my knee against the door. The bolster cures that.
My MPP arm locks never moved and they were slightly easier to adjust than my UP's. Those were just my thoughts.
My Rear Eibach swaybar only had two holes for adjustment, UP's rear had three. Eibach & UP's both had three holes in the front bar. Thanks for the tip on the front links. (Do the White line links hold up? Do you have a suggestion?).
The Koenig Dekagrams you mentioned in 18x10.5 offer a 35-40 offset? AM wheel thread?

Thanks again for the info.
18x10.5 with 35 won’t fit
 
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To be clear, I'm currently running mostly UP equipment. Yes, it's my daily driver. Yes, I'll be switching to the XA class next year. Yes, I'm doing the Fontana Champ Tour this weekend. Unfortunately, I'll be running AO52's since I didn't plan on entering the ASP class but that's where I ended up.

How was the MPP to UP switch? I have thought about it, since UP has more adjustment range and looks like it could be nicer. But really don't want to eat the cost to do the switch
 
Yes even with aftermarket rotors which push the wheel outboard about 5 mm from the stock performance rotors there's just not enough clearance.
Yikes I special ordered my wheels on the fact that MPP had a 19x10 +35 fitting and with the others at 18x10.5 +25. I thought with brakes I'd push it out enough. Looks like I'll need to do extended studs and a spacer on top of the rotors.
 
Yikes I special ordered my wheels on the fact that MPP had a 19x10 +35 fitting and with the others at 18x10.5 +25. I thought with brakes I'd push it out enough. Looks like I'll need to do extended studs and a spacer on top of the rotors.
10 inch wide w/35 mm offset with aftermarket rotors might just clear the front spindle.
 
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Maybe I'm not looking in the right areas but I'm still looking for the offset of the 18x10.5 UP-03 wheels. They don't look pushed out like a +25 + rotors. So I assuming that are +30 or +29mm + the rotors which puts them at effetely a +25 offset without rotors.
Yes if they're selling those for tracking you would have to assume that they clear the front spindle if you've got aftermarket rotors or brakes. You probably will also need significant negative camber to clear the Bodywork particularly if you're running a 295.
 
Yes if they're selling those for tracking you would have to assume that they clear the front spindle if you've got aftermarket rotors or brakes. You probably will also need significant negative camber to clear the Bodywork particularly if you're running a 295.
You need at least 10mm spacers in front for UP-03 and a052 295 tire at -3 camber if you have aftermarket brake rotors and therefore you need longer studs or spacers with own studs.

They marked as ET38, but I have a feeling that this is not true. I didn't measure true ET, unfortunately. They fit rear with aftermarket brake rotors and -2 camber.

They weight 47.4 lbs with a052 295x35 r18 where tire is 27 lbs and have 300x31.6 real size.
 
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2021 Model 3 Performance Autocross Build

MasterC17 Great write up! I could have used this info when I started developing my M3P for Autocross (AX). I'm adding my build and thoughts into the mix.

Dealer test drive:
Confession...I taxed the stock brakes on the dealer demo M3P on my test drive. I hated the lack of bolstering in the seat, the suspension didn't have what I was looking for to be competitive in the CST class for AX. But, the car was an absolute blast to drive! I LOVE the 0-60 that's quiet and super useful in AX and on the street. I should also mention we were in COVID mode at the dealer so the test drive with no sales person was convenient.

Brakes:
MPP rotors, SS lines, SRF brake fluid, MPP master cylinder brace, Carbotech X8 pads. The brakes are almost spot on. I'm going to try UP's PFC compound for Fontana Champ Tour National next week. The Carbotech pads have a little bit too much bite and I'm hoping the new UP PFC pads will have a little more modulation before lockup.

Front Upper Control Arms (FUCA):
If you are planning on AX or tracking your M3P then UP's FUCA is absolutely the best choice in my opinion. I tried the MPP first because of their simple clean design and the fact that I wasn't interested in adjusting castor. In the end I wasn't able to achieve enough camber at the ride height suitable to everyday driving (The lower you go, the greater the camber) and I wanted to experiment with castor adjustment. The UP FUCA was a solid design that allowed huge amounts of camber & castor adjustment So that's what I have on the car now.

Rear Camber & Toe Arms:
I run the UP rear camber & control arms. Their newest design allows more camber adjustment. They're also the strongest design. They're so robust Eddy of UP told me he uses a couple cresent wrenches to adjust them. Since my personality is a little on the OCD side I ordered a 28mm & 32mm wrench and cut them down to fit in the area well. The MPP camber & Toe Arms are slightly easier to adjust on the car but I was worried about the small pinch bolts. I never had an issue with them so I put it out of my head.

Swaybars:
I started out with Eibach swaybars since they appeared to have a similar diameter as UP's although less adjustability. MPP didn't offer any and I could save a couple bucks over getting the UP's. Rishie (Rishie owner of "autornd" is a great resource for everything Tesla) advised me to order lockings to bolt on the Eibach swaybars to avoid the bars "walking" side to side. The swaybars worked and I had no issues with walking thanks to Rishie. When I switched to UP coilovers I was advised that the UP swaybars worked better with them than than Eibach, so I switched to UP's swaybars and have them on the car now. The UP bars came with lockings welded on them as well as more adjustability holes.

Coilovers:
I run UP's Race spec one way adjustable coilovers and unless I come across an amazing deal for UP's two or three way adjustable set I will be running these indefinitely. Simply put, they were a game changer. I had MPP's sport coilovers and they were a huge difference from stock but they were a little too soft for the CST class. At AX events I was hesitating for the car to stabilize before turning (Body roll). On threshold braking, the front end was diving a little causing me to wait a little before turning. Here's a pic of the UP coilovers pushing over 1g in a corner. There were three large men in the car (260lbs, 205lbs, 200lbs the two big ones were on the passenger side). Look at the composure under such a load.
View attachment 654763


Sliding in the seat:
Schroth had the only harness I knew of that would allow me to run the stock seat and snap in & out easily for events. That's what I have in the car now. The next issue was the lack of bolstering by the legs. I saw a pretty fast guy in a stock Tesla (Tim) wedging a Sparco seat cushion in-between the door and his leg. I liked the concept but wanted a cleaner solution. Since I couldn't find one, I made a rubber & foam pad that Velcro's on to the door handle. I got some very funny looks from my co-driver and Tom who helps us develop the car but at the end of the day, both said they loved it.
View attachment 654762

Rear Spring Arms:
Regardless of your application, if you're replacing your rear spring arms, UP is hands down the best choice! The MPP spring arms are solid and good looking and I never had a mechanical issue with them. They collected asphalt and tire rubber in the spring seat cup but that's trivial. That being said the UP's are a dream to use. When you want to adjust ride height, all you have to do is using a socket wrench, reach under the car and turn it up or down! Seriously, it's a corner balancer's dream. No more jacking up the car, pulling off the wheel, adjusting the spring adjuster with a spanner wrench, putting the wheel back on, lowering the car off the jack, rolling the car back and forth taking a measurement and repeating until ride height is achieved.

Wheels:
I started out with Apex EC-7 18x9.5 and they work fine for 275 tires. When I made the jump to 295's I bit the bullet and sprung for UP's UP03 Race spec wheels 18x10.5" which I was able to get 295's on. I love the wheels, they're light, strong and give me a little sense of pride when They're on the car. I will use the Apex wheels until I've chewed through the 275's sitting under my house but when they're gone, I'll replace them with a set of off brand 18x10.5" wheels... Does anybody recommend an affordable practice wheel 18x10.5" that will fit over the Tesla M3P brake calipers?

Summary:
I've spent a lot of time & money developing my M3P for the CST class (Soon to be the XA class). Thank you to all the trusted sources that I've leaned heavily on (Rishie of Autornd, Ben & Eddy of UP, Jesse & Sasha of MPP, Tom, Kyle). I feel I have a very solid car and can now focus on my driving for the rest of the season. In the latest configuration we were able to finally get our first win in the CST class (**disclaimer- Tom Berry decided to race a different class that day).View attachment 654764 Next weekend we will be racing the SCCA National Champ Tour in Fontana. The class we were hoping to run had no entrants so we will be running in the ASP class. The ASP class allows for Hoosiers... we will be running Yokohama AO52's (Since we have two sets under my house) and hoping for a miracle. I hope sharing my development helps as much as I learned from reading other peoples contributions.

thanks for the write up! I’m very curious about the cheap cleaner solution for body sliding. I’m trying to custom cut something like you have in the picture in between my leg and the door so my body doesn’t have to fight the slide during cornering (I use left foot braking so it’s even more important to have body not sliding or my left leg will have no choice but to help keep the body balanced). What material did you use for this smart solution? Is it EVA form (like the ones used for yoga brick) ?

questuon for the Scroth quick fit harness. If you have it fastened tight enough, will your body still slide during cornering ? Thanks :)
 
You need at least 10mm spacers in front for UP-03 and a052 295 tire at -3 camber if you have aftermarket brake rotors and therefore you need longer studs or spacers with own studs.

They marked as ET38, but I have a feeling that this is not true. I didn't measure true ET, unfortunately. They fit rear with aftermarket brake rotors and -2 camber.

They weight 47.4 lbs with a052 295x35 r18 where tire is 27 lbs and have 300x31.6 real size.
So does UP clearly disclose that the fronts need spacers? Would be pretty disconcerting if they didn't
 
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So does UP clearly disclose that the fronts need spacers? Would be pretty disconcerting if they didn't
It's a racing wheel and they quite clear about it being not recommended for street use and requiring fitting. You can't have same ET at front and rear with 10.5 wheels and without spacers on Model 3.

But I agree, that would be helpful to have it clearly stated and maybe even sell those spacers.

Alternatively one can order them with different ET.
 
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It's a racing wheel and they quite clear about it being not recommended for street use and requiring fitting. You can't have same ET at front and rear with 10.5 wheels and without spacers on Model 3.

But I agree, that would be helpful to have it clearly stated and maybe even sell those spacers.

Alternatively one can order them with different ET.
Thank you for clearing that up in your earlier post. I looked everywhere to try and find the ET for them to no avail. Even the very good write up that was just reposted a few comments up doesn't have the ET listing on them. I watch their Pikes peak video and saw a fair amount of pulling on the fenders. On their website it seems like the wheels are bolt on but with no ET specs I wanted to verify.

I check my wheel order and it is 18x10.5 +25 so I'm good from the looks of it. I went with Gold Advan RGIII wheels. Can you run a 295 A052 without the rotors pushing out the extra 4mm? I was always planning on running 275s but if I can I'd rather buy the right size first. I've order the supporting mods for this fitment already. Can't wait for the boxes to start showing up.
 
Thank you for clearing that up in your earlier post. I looked everywhere to try and find the ET for them to no avail. Even the very good write up that was just reposted a few comments up doesn't have the ET listing on them. I watch their Pikes peak video and saw a fair amount of pulling on the fenders. On their website it seems like the wheels are bolt on but with no ET specs I wanted to verify.

I check my wheel order and it is 18x10.5 +25 so I'm good from the looks of it. I went with Gold Advan RGIII wheels. Can you run a 295 A052 without the rotors pushing out the extra 4mm? I was always planning on running 275s but if I can I'd rather buy the right size first. I've order the supporting mods for this fitment already. Can't wait for the boxes to start showing up.
If ET marking on UP-03 wheel is correct, I think that you will fit with standard performance rotors, but it will be very close. 295 a052 is the right size for 10.5. I will be somewhat more concerned about rear fender, but I need to check the calculator. Unplugged is using wide front fenders on their cars and I believe they just add 20mm spacers at the front with integrated studs.
 
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