The FUCA's will certainly help with front end grip. You will actually be using the whole tire, not just the outer edges
The coilovers are magic though. My vote is for both haha!
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MASTER THREAD: Comprehensive Road-Course Modification Guide — Optimizing the 3 for the track
- Thread starter MasterC17
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The FUCA's will certainly help with front end grip. You will actually be using the whole tire, not just the outer edges
The coilovers are magic though. My vote is for both haha!
Stock suspension is painfully slow for autox. Not enough damping to stop inertia, not enough spring force to change direction.
Even MPP Sport is slow for that, but it's a good compromise for dual use. Too much springs and damping and you lose traction on regular bad roads. And before that you hate that spring based seat without support is not holding you connected to the car. And before that you just feel annoyed by bad roads. So it's a good compromise that you can damp more for the event. Or buy harder springs and change that every time, but then you need to change valving, because you will run out of range. And now with sport valving you need to rebuild them yearly. And it will be not optimal for street now.
MPP has super sport springs now. Not sure if there were any reviews, but apparently it can fit sport dampers. Should be streetable.
Tesla should do active voice coil suspension to make true dual use car. There is enough power and capacity to do it now. Come on, how long we need to wait for perfect suspension? And super capacitors buffer with better motors cooling to eat megawatts of regen and suspension travel.
Anyway, suspension is the main effect.
But if budget is tight, start with arms, because coilovers won't stop the destruction of tires.
Even MPP Sport is slow for that, but it's a good compromise for dual use. Too much springs and damping and you lose traction on regular bad roads. And before that you hate that spring based seat without support is not holding you connected to the car. And before that you just feel annoyed by bad roads. So it's a good compromise that you can damp more for the event. Or buy harder springs and change that every time, but then you need to change valving, because you will run out of range. And now with sport valving you need to rebuild them yearly. And it will be not optimal for street now.
MPP has super sport springs now. Not sure if there were any reviews, but apparently it can fit sport dampers. Should be streetable.
Tesla should do active voice coil suspension to make true dual use car. There is enough power and capacity to do it now. Come on, how long we need to wait for perfect suspension? And super capacitors buffer with better motors cooling to eat megawatts of regen and suspension travel.
Anyway, suspension is the main effect.
But if budget is tight, start with arms, because coilovers won't stop the destruction of tires.
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You tell me for the seat ^^. I have race bucket seats on my Corvette, it is mega to feel connected to the car... I agree with your comments vs stock suspensions for AutoX. Need to take in consideration the car is 1850kg... Need a LOT of spring and damping for such weight... It's not really that the budget is tight, it is more than it is still a lot of money for a daily car. If I do that I'll have to make sure that before selling the car I remove all the parts... Another option to reduce roll is sway bars. But it looks like MPP/UP are not so keen on sway bars. Eibach is doing a sway bar kit to go with my springs, it would be a cheap try...Issue is that every time I do moderate/cheap parts on my builds I end up being disapointed and I end up buying the expensive parts anyway...
MPP advise doing Sways last, and strongly advise against them for a car seeing mostly road use.
If steering feel is what you’re after, you should do the MPP solid front lower control arm bearing, along with sports coils. Do rear camber arms along with FUCA to sort out your tire wear issue.
I know it’s expensive, but what’s the point in being the richest man in the graveyard
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emotiveeng
Former Vendor
Very late to the party, but G-LOC recommends R12 front and R10 rear.
Finished up 5th track day with the R12/R10 combo over the weekend and have run it in the past on other vehicles as well. Love the modulation, but you already know that from using Carbotechs.
MPP advise doing Sways last, and strongly advise against them for a car seeing mostly road use.
If steering feel is what you’re after, you should do the MPP solid front lower control arm bearing, along with sports coils. Do rear camber arms along with FUCA to sort out your tire wear issue.
I know it’s expensive, but what’s the point in being the richest man in the graveyard
Any preferences between MPP Sport Coilovers and UPP Race spec coilovers ?
UPP Race Spec Coilovers look like they are the equivalent of the MPP with the super sport springs. Their sport coilovers are a little cheaper than the MPP sports but they are out of stock.
Crap I can't decide between the camber kit I need and the coilovers
. I clearly need both but still can't swallow the bill. I have a 2017 V8 6.2 Gen 5 LT1 engine to sell for parts for the same amount, but it is not sold yet, this would help making the cost acceptable...I don’t think you can go wrong with either brand; both are reputable and you don’t hear a bad word about either of them.Any preferences between MPP Sport Coilovers and UPP Race spec coilovers ?
UPP Race Spec Coilovers look like they are the equivalent of the MPP with the super sport springs. Their sport coilovers are a little cheaper than the MPP sports but they are out of stock.
Crap I can't decide between the camber kit I need and the coilovers
I think you need to just stomach the cost, bite the bullet and do both camber arms and coilovers. You never regret doing things correctly at the outset.
TacoSteve
Closed
If you still street drive your car I think you'll be much happier on the MPP Sports, but your concern originally was tire wear and being fast. The camber arms are the better place to spend your money if the choice is between arms or coilovers.Any preferences between MPP Sport Coilovers and UPP Race spec coilovers ?
UPP Race Spec Coilovers look like they are the equivalent of the MPP with the super sport springs. Their sport coilovers are a little cheaper than the MPP sports but they are out of stock.
Crap I can't decide between the camber kit I need and the coilovers
I had both coilovers and dyno tested them as well. UP 2-way are harder springs (except rear) and non digressive valving (not decreasing damping with speed). UP fits better for tracks with low elevation changes. MPP/KW 2-way is better fit for dual use.
Ohlins R&T is coming this month and it will be a great option.Any preferences between MPP Sport Coilovers and UPP Race spec coilovers ?
UPP Race Spec Coilovers look like they are the equivalent of the MPP with the super sport springs. Their sport coilovers are a little cheaper than the MPP sports but they are out of stock.
Crap I can't decide between the camber kit I need and the coilovers
Depending on the amount of lowering, you may or may not need camber arms.
Brake ducts for you track junkies. Not sure where the feed would come from in the front
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emotiveeng
Former Vendor
Those look well made. Does anyone have any hard data on rotor, caliper, or pad temps they're seeing on track - other than "percent of hot" provided by Track Mode?
TM-Spy shows temps, I wasn’t sure if they are they accurate though?
Wonder where it pulls the temp data from, I don’t believe there’s a sensor?
I believe the reported brake temps are modeled from something other than actual temp sensor readings. With any aftermarket brake parts the model will be wrong and the reported temps won't be anywhere close to accurate.
Yes that does mean the brake temp feature seems mostly useless, since anyone tracking their car will presumably use track pads at a minimum, throwing off the model. It's a neat idea though.
Total armchair speculation ahead....maybe if you take your own temperate readings and compare with what the car is reporting, you could build a conversion formula and do quick mental math to determine your actual brake temps, or at least memorize a reported temp that corresponds to some actual threshold temp where you'd want to back off. I've no idea if the model is actually consistent enough to make that worthwhile though.
Yes that does mean the brake temp feature seems mostly useless, since anyone tracking their car will presumably use track pads at a minimum, throwing off the model. It's a neat idea though.
Total armchair speculation ahead....maybe if you take your own temperate readings and compare with what the car is reporting, you could build a conversion formula and do quick mental math to determine your actual brake temps, or at least memorize a reported temp that corresponds to some actual threshold temp where you'd want to back off. I've no idea if the model is actually consistent enough to make that worthwhile though.
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