House garbage bags don’t work. Just go to discount tire and ask nicely for 4 bags or pay for them. They’ve always given me bags.In the future just put your tires in garbage bags before placing them in the car.
You can install our site as a web app on your iOS device by utilizing the Add to Home Screen feature in Safari. Please see this thread for more details on this.
Note: This feature may not be available in some browsers.
House garbage bags don’t work. Just go to discount tire and ask nicely for 4 bags or pay for them. They’ve always given me bags.In the future just put your tires in garbage bags before placing them in the car.
Congrats on kicking butt Tony! Hustling that car around as usualWas out at Gridlife Alpine Fest last weekend and took the win in Street Class. I got more aggressive with my alignment for this even and learned some things.
1. I don't like toe out in the rear. There are quite a few guides that say to give the car a bit of tow out in the rear and maybe with a rear wing that would work, but with no non factory aero it makes the car super unstable and turn in at speed. I dialed in a bit more positive toe this time than I had been and the car was great at speed. Not wild oversteer on entry.
2. I started to play around with a larger split in camber between the front and rear axles. I had my front camber up to 4.5 and my rear at 3. This felt really good although at low speed I could still use a bit more front grip. Tire temps were also in check for what I would expect. This is a bit of a strange track though in that it is a roval with lots of banking.
3. Playing around with the power split in track mode only consistently made me slower. 50/50 is best it seems at least based on how I drive.
Anyway here's the vid from the fastest lap. Set this on my second timed lap of the week and the second timed lap I have ever had on this track. Too much autoxer in me I guess.
So, I'm trying to assess how much of a rear sway bar I want, and the question I've ran into is if these OEM rates are remotely accurate.Car looks great and this is great info. Where did you happen to find the OEM Performance rear sway bar rate?
When purchasing sway bars, I made a comparison chart of the aftermarket options. If the OEM P bar is about 103 lbs/in, this makes me realize the MPP rear bar is actually pretty similar to UPP. I'm sure they would tell us the actual spring rate because they're awesome.
Tube diameter (mm) Spring rate (lbs/in) Increase in stiffness from LR AWD non-P OEM front 29 650 0 OEM rear 16 40 0 OEM P rear 19.6 103 256%
The stock bars on the 3 when we weighed them were 10.2lb front and 6.7lb rear. They must be hollow because they are similar in weight to ours!I could go measure the weight of my factory bars. Would tell me if they are hollow, but won't tell me the wall thickness
To see if they're hollow? You don't need to do that. The weight tells you they have to be hollow.I'm tempted to cut mine apart now.
Well, if you don't plan on installing them again, maybe cut up the front bar and then sell the rear bar to an SR owner who wants to have a rear bar!I'm tempted to cut mine apart now.
If someone's bored, they could go over pics of wrecked model 3s on copart and see if they can find one with a broken front sway.To see if they're hollow? You don't need to do that. The weight tells you they have to be hollow.
I can confirm that the quick fit will fit both sides. If you are going as far as buying a racing seat you might as well build a harness bar also and do a proper 6 point. There some universal harness bars out there that might fit, I am planning on building my own.Racing Seats!
Okay, ever since I got my 200tw race tires, staying in the seat is honestly a chore. Literally the most sore part of my body was my left leg from either pushing against the door or jamming against the dead pedal. Riding passenger and leaning against the door at 1.2-1.3g feels like the door is going to pop open and I’m going to get dragged around by the seatbelt.
Anywho,
1) Can someone confirm Schroth SCH-16 for the E90 M3 Fits on both the passenger side and drivers side (assuming I get one of each)?
2) Can someone confirm, then, if the next best option is $4000 in Unplugged Performance seats + some 4-points?
A) Could I use the UP Seats with the Schroth quick fits? Or do I indeed need removable roll bar? I will do the bar if it makes for a better and or safer seatbelt mount, though I am really not worried about the roof collapsing in a rollover.
Thanks!
-Lindenwood
@Mash @MasterC17 et. al.
The two main desires driving racing seat consideration are 1) bolstering and 2) weight. Everything I have read suggests a 4-point will largely do the job of keeping me in the seat.I can confirm that the quick fit will fit both sides. If you are going as far as buying a racing seat you might as well build a harness bar also and do a proper 6 point. There some universal harness bars out there that might fit, I am planning on building my own.
I didn't buy passenger side, so not sure if it's the same SKU or different one.I can confirm that the quick fit will fit both sides. If you are going as far as buying a racing seat you might as well build a harness bar also and do a proper 6 point. There some universal harness bars out there that might fit, I am planning on building my own.
I'm not very concerned about seat collapse. Doesn't look probable. Yes, it's somewhat steeper angle than recommended, but they certified those belts on very similar cars. Harness bar is very very heavy and very questionable in terms of added safety. And it's tons of prep work.The two main desires driving racing seat consideration are 1) bolstering and 2) weight. Everything I have read suggests a 4-point will largely do the job of keeping me in the seat.
However, main concern with the Schroth belts in factory seats is that they rely heavily on the strength of the seat back to avoid spinal compression in a hard frontal collision.* That pushes me toward the Bar (and I agree it seems like a lot to spend $2500 on a UP bar just to mount seat belts), and then back to racing seats to at least offset the weight and for belt pass-throughs.
I do know they are DOT-approved and that the ASM makes them act somewhat like a 3-point during a frontal collision. But still, it is a concern…
Looking at the UP 4 point I wouldn't want to use it. The harness bar is in the wrong place and the angle of the rear tubes are too steep. I don't understand this design at all. It also appears to rely on the sheer strength of bolts for the lower b pillar point which is is no way legal for basically anything.The two main desires driving racing seat consideration are 1) bolstering and 2) weight. Everything I have read suggests a 4-point will largely do the job of keeping me in the seat.
However, main concern with the Schroth belts in factory seats is that they rely heavily on the strength of the seat back to avoid spinal compression in a hard frontal collision.* That pushes me toward the Bar (and I agree it seems like a lot to spend $2500 on a UP bar just to mount seat belts), and then back to racing seats to at least offset the weight and for belt pass-throughs.
I do know they are DOT-approved and that the ASM makes them act somewhat like a 3-point during a frontal collision. But still, it is a concern…
UP is here to help if you have any questions. Shoot us a DM and we'll be happy to have one of our customer reps assist you.Looking at the UP 4 point I wouldn't want to use it. The harness bar is in the wrong place and the angle of the rear tubes are too steep. I don't understand this design at all. It also appears to rely on the sheer strength of bolts for the lower b pillar point which is is no way legal for basically anything.