P3D-R
Closed
Comprehensive track attack compliments of @MountainPass and Aspira. Should make for some good times. Coupled this with some Goodyear SC3's based on MPP's tire review and some testing at Tesla Corsa. Can't wait to see this one rip.
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MASTER THREAD: Comprehensive Road-Course Modification Guide — Optimizing the 3 for the track
- Thread starter MasterC17
- Start date
Lindenwood
Active Member
I am happy to report the wing is actually surprisingly effective at increasing stability when braking hard at speed. With the autocross setup (1mm rear toe-out and UP sway bar at full-stiff), the car would get a bit dancy when braking hard from 100+. The wing so far has eliminated all of that, allowing me to keep the rotation-biased setup for lower-speed cornering without sacrificing higher-speed stability.
Also because #racecar
Also because #racecar
Lindenwood
Active Member
My car is set up for both AutoX and Road Course use.
My current mod list:
(SUSPENSION)
-MPP FUCAs
-MPP Camber / Toe Arms
-MPP Compression Rod Bushing Inserts
-MPP Comfort Adjustable Coilovers
-MPP Master Cylinder Brace
-UP Rear Anti-sway Bar (full-stiff)
(BRAKES)
-Girodisc 370x34mm front rotors w/ Brembo 6-piston calipers and Powerstop Track Day Pads (not enough I think, with some glazed spots).
-XT910 rear pads
-MPP Braided lines
-Motul RBF600 Fluid
(TIRES)
-275/35R19 Federal 595RS-Pros on 19x9.5s
(SAFETY)
-HANS Device
-Schroth Quick-Fit Pro E90 Harnesses
-…..Plus the wing which is 50% to flex on the ‘Gram and 50% which has successfully mitigated some minor instability when braking from higher speeds.
Two questions:
1) Next best improvement for the car (including the ubiquitous “more track time”)? LCA Bearings?
2) I am considering adding a 5th point to my Schroth. I have this fear of submarining that I can’t shake. (I would likely build a bar that mounts between the two front seat mounting bolts and run the strap over the front of the seat or even through the center). I have found various “5th point” straps, but I s there a specific type of buckle I need, or are these things relatively universal?
Tinks!
My current mod list:
(SUSPENSION)
-MPP FUCAs
-MPP Camber / Toe Arms
-MPP Compression Rod Bushing Inserts
-MPP Comfort Adjustable Coilovers
-MPP Master Cylinder Brace
-UP Rear Anti-sway Bar (full-stiff)
(BRAKES)
-Girodisc 370x34mm front rotors w/ Brembo 6-piston calipers and Powerstop Track Day Pads (not enough I think, with some glazed spots).
-XT910 rear pads
-MPP Braided lines
-Motul RBF600 Fluid
(TIRES)
-275/35R19 Federal 595RS-Pros on 19x9.5s
(SAFETY)
-HANS Device
-Schroth Quick-Fit Pro E90 Harnesses
-…..Plus the wing which is 50% to flex on the ‘Gram and 50% which has successfully mitigated some minor instability when braking from higher speeds.
Two questions:
1) Next best improvement for the car (including the ubiquitous “more track time”)? LCA Bearings?
2) I am considering adding a 5th point to my Schroth. I have this fear of submarining that I can’t shake. (I would likely build a bar that mounts between the two front seat mounting bolts and run the strap over the front of the seat or even through the center). I have found various “5th point” straps, but I s there a specific type of buckle I need, or are these things relatively universal?
Tinks!
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@Lindenwood Any of:
- Drivetrain cooling improvements for longer sustained track sessions
- Firmer coilovers. Something with "sport" or even "race" in the name.
- Could look into getting your MPP Comforts revalved into MPP Sport spec, with an associated spring swap. I'm not sure if that would work out any cheaper than selling what you have + buying new, but it might.
- Sport/racing buckets ($$$$ if you want street-friendly heated Recaro Sportster CS)
P3D-R
Closed
1. 100% you need higher rates. The comforts are not gonna do what you need. Depending on your pace and frequency at track you might even need more than the sport rates.
2. FLCAB should have been one of the first mods to sharpen you steering response. There's a lot of deflection in that bushing when cornering.
3. Better tires imo. The 595 RS-Pro, albeit cheap, are not gonna get you your best lap times. Do they overheat or get greasy on you quickly?
Lindenwood
Active Member
Yeah I’ll be adding the LCABs to the short list! I also do want a rear motor cooler for sure.
The 595s have been great for AutoX, though the fronts definitely overheat by the end of full-bore sessions and I could feel them getting a little slick.
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Here's an interesting video we made about the front lower control arm compression link bushing upgrade to spherical joints.
Kind of shocking how much the wheels move fore and aft with the Tesla Model 3's weight and the sheer grip of modern tires.
This displacement will affect the toe heavily, and under cornering loads, will alter the caster significantly too.
I suppose this will have more of an effect when we have stiffer arms and joints elsewhere, as the compliance/shift becomes more isolated to this spot...
_____________
Moto Miwa
Kind of shocking how much the wheels move fore and aft with the Tesla Model 3's weight and the sheer grip of modern tires.
This displacement will affect the toe heavily, and under cornering loads, will alter the caster significantly too.
I suppose this will have more of an effect when we have stiffer arms and joints elsewhere, as the compliance/shift becomes more isolated to this spot...
_____________
Moto Miwa
I support harder springs and flcab.
And don't do 5 points. Especially don't do it over the seat edge.
First of all you really want 6 point or 4 for a reason.
Second - those points are not to prevent you slipping away from your seat. They are made to make sure your pelvis doesn't move at all, because if it moves - it ends up doing much more damage to the body during a crash. So you need it to be tight and that 5th point sticking too far away would do nothing beyond destruction of nuts.
Lindenwood
Active Member
Yeah, I specifically meant the 5th point only to keep the belt from riding up above my pelvis in a hard forward collision! Can a 5th point not prevent this (and also be mounted in such an orientation that it prevents upward belt movement without being unnecessarily close to the crotch)?
One more question: can the comfort dampers handle sport coils? @MountainPass
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Collutio
Member
I, too, am now curious to know the answer to this question. I might email them if they don't respond here soonish.
@Lindenwood @Collutio
You can indeed run the Sport springs with either of the Comfort kits, but since the damper valving is not the same, you shouldn't expect identical performance! We keep spares on hand in case anyone does want to switch spring setups for their coilovers, and we have had people do this swap in both directions. I'd say they usually ask for Comfort springs for a Sports kit
You can indeed run the Sport springs with either of the Comfort kits, but since the damper valving is not the same, you shouldn't expect identical performance! We keep spares on hand in case anyone does want to switch spring setups for their coilovers, and we have had people do this swap in both directions. I'd say they usually ask for Comfort springs for a Sports kit
Lindenwood
Active Member
From a pure performance and feedback perspective, given my above mod list, do you think Sport coils on my comfort damper would provide more overall improvement than your FLCA Bearings?@Lindenwood @Collutio
You can indeed run the Sport springs with either of the Comfort kits, but since the damper valving is not the same, you shouldn't expect identical performance! We keep spares on hand in case anyone does want to switch spring setups for their coilovers, and we have had people do this swap in both directions. I'd say they usually ask for Comfort springs for a Sports kit
Honestly I really do like the ride quality of the Comforts at full-soft so I don’t necessarily want to give that up if I don’t have to…
P3D-R
Closed
I do not think these two are related. They are totally independent of each other. You need FLCAB regardless of which route you go if you are going to continue putting those arms through the aggressive loads you are with racing whether it be circuit or autox. IMO, it's compulsory. If you don't do it you're just going to see premature failures anyway so nip it in the bud. In fact I advise that you inspect the bushings if you haven't already. I have changed hundreds of these bushings on normal people's cars and all within the 25-35K range on a dual motor vehicle. This is one of the least terrible examples. I can dig through my boxes to find you various grades or wear. Everytime you rotate or put your track tires on I think you should inspect these bushings and stay ahead of the failures.
Not the way you described it. You need a hole in the seat for 2 bottom straps. Potentially you can do it with the stock seat, but you need to be creative and careful to make it look right. I opted for just keeping 4pts for now.
Dark Hemet 2.0 Shatters EV Record at Buttonwillow Raceway -
Unplugged Performance Model S Plaid 1:43...
again
The longitudinal G's are incredible with these loaded with downforce.
Craig kart pedaling the car too.
Lindenwood
Active Member
SorryMy MPP Black Friday cart is getting pretty deep
Had to share this nice photo from Palmer!
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