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MASTER THREAD: Comprehensive Road-Course Modification Guide — Optimizing the 3 for the track

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Ahhh,

I was supposed to head there that Friday, but I got pulled into work.

What's our current setup? I recall you changed quite a bit recently.

No major changes.

White 3 (2021 Performance):

Suspension
MPP Sports Adjustable Coilovers
MPP.R Super Sport Spring Kit
MPP.R Caster Adjustable Compression Bearings
MPP Lightweight Rear Spring Arms
MPP Rear Toe Arms
MPP Rear Camber Arms
MPP Cyber Rear Trailing Arms
MPP Front Upper Control Arms
MPP Front Lower Control Arm Bushings
MPP Cyber Rear Traction Arms
MPP Front Sway Bar
MPP Rear Sway Bar
MPP Rear Subframe Inserts
Cooling
MPP Rear Oil Cooler
MPP Cooling Party Controller
Brakes
MPP StopTech 380mm Front Big Brake Kit
MPP Master Cylinder Brace
MPP.R Performance Rear Big Brake Kit
Raybestos ST45 Front Brake Pads
MPP/Pagid Rear Brake Pads
MPP Stainless Steel Brake Lines
ATE TYP200 Brake Fluid
Wheels/Tires
19x10.5 ET40 Martian MW03 Wheels
305/30/19 Falken RT660
Dorman Wheel Studs
Titanium Lug Nuts
Interior
OMP Champ-R Driver Seat
MPP Lightweight Lithium Battery Kit
Exterior
Factory Rear Spoiler
Maier EV Front Lip Spoiler
MPP.R Rear Wing
MPP Smash Me Front Aero Shield
Miscellaneous
MPP PartyBox
MOTEC C125 Display for Model 3

Grey 3 (2018 LR RWD):

Suspension
MPP Sports Adjustable Coilovers
MPP.R Super Sport Spring Kit
MPP.R Caster Adjustable Compression Bearings
MPP Lightweight Rear Spring Arms
MPP Rear Toe Arms
MPP Rear Camber Arms
MPP Cyber Rear Trailing Arms
MPP Cyber Rear Traction Arms
MPP Front Upper Control Arms
MPP Front Lower Control Arm Bushings
Cooling
MPP Rear Oil Cooler
MPP Cooling Party Controller
Brakes
OEM Performance Brake Calipers
MPP Page Mill Two-Piece Front Brake Rotors
OEM Rear Brake Rotors
MPP Master Cylinder Brace
G-LOC R10 Front Brake Pads
G-LOC R10 Rear Brake Pads
MPP Stainless Steel Brake Lines
ATE TYP200 Brake Fluid
Wheels/Tires
19x9.5 ET40 Konig Oversteer
275/35/19 Michelin Pilot Sport 4S
Interior
MPP Lightweight Lithium Battery Kit
Exterior
Factory Rear Spoiler
Miscellaneous
MPP PartyBox
MOTEC C125 Display for Model 3
 
It's still the middle of winter, but is your car ready for spring and summer warmer months?
Tesla cars perform really well in warmer climates and are best enjoyed in the summer for travels and local trips.

But one of the stress points of a Tesla is the drive unit. It's basically the equivalent of a gearbox in a traditional car, it is a one-speed gearbox.
While there is no gear shifting taking place in a Tesla car, there are still reduction gears to make the electric motor rotation speeds, something more compatible with rolling tires.
As these drive units actually saturate with a lot of heat and can become problematic for folks on raceways and streets alike.
Hot drive units will cook the fluid inside it, potentially increasing wear and reducing efficiencies in the gearbox.

On the raceway, the advantages are clear since it is the same principle as having a transmission cooler in a race car.
Unlike a standard transmission, the Tesla drive unit contains one set of gears that are constantly used, in both directions.
Therefore, keeping it at ideal temperature ranges is critical even in mundane road use. Regenerative braking does save the brakes from doing much work, but it also puts that same load on the driveline so that the motors can make electricity... So unlike ICE cars, there is a large duty cycle in both forward acceleration and deceleration modes...

UP's Enduro Drive Unit Oil Cooler Magnetic Filter greatly helps the cooling and increases the efficacy of cleaning this fluid.
A much larger dwell volume and duration mean more fluid can be carried to resist heat saturation too.

Installation is as easy as changing the filter too.
I think anyone who lives in warmer climates or abuses the Model Y and 3 should have one.
____
Moto Miwa
Unplugged Performance
Tesla Specialist / Sales and Communications
[email protected]

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  • Funny
Reactions: buckets0fun
It would be interesting to see some back to back data comparing oil temps with and without these installed over a ~15 minute period on a racetrack.

Frankly, I doubt there is any real difference since there's almost no airflow getting to that area, and the increase in oil volume is negligible.

In addition, there's absolutely no reason at all to install these or any other oil cooling solution for street use. The oil will never get anywhere hot enough to degrade anything.
 
Let's see the temperature data. Claiming that street driving requires a drivetrain oil cooler is the scam red flag for me.

I just read the product info on the UP website.
"Challenge: Aluminum levels are elevated. Solution: A magnetic filter is integrated into the oil filter to catch and easily remove the metal shavings"
See anything wrong with that solution?
 
Let's see the temperature data. Claiming that street driving requires a drivetrain oil cooler is the scam red flag for me.

I just read the product info on the UP website.
"Challenge: Aluminum levels are elevated. Solution: A magnetic filter is integrated into the oil filter to catch and easily remove the metal shavings"
See anything wrong with that solution?
I noticed that exact conflict and figured I didn’t want to say anything…….but yeah…… :/
 
I'll pile on to say that when I read post 1027 above I thought it was a rather hard sell, making broad, unsubstantiated claims, without supporting data, for a company that I think of as reputable. Wondering if UP might chime back in to this thread to comment?
May take time but now that I am at UP, I will start to validate things like this more often and bring you results :D
I'm seeing more and more things like Model Y's towing things and Model 3's on raceways, little things do add up. Trust me as I have been in motorsports from SCCA to Japan's Super GT, to other things in between...
 
May take time but now that I am at UP, I will start to validate things like this more often and bring you results :D
I'm seeing more and more things like Model Y's towing things and Model 3's on raceways, little things do add up. Trust me as I have been in motorsports from SCCA to Japan's Super GT, to other things in between...
Trust me. My dad’s a tv repair man.

The average user that would be in this thread, would be fine changing their DU fluid around 40k miles(it’s cheaper than the oil pump+ tow home). Or keeping a few drive unit oil pumps on hand with the needed tools & fluid to do it track side.

A set of external heat exchangers with fan(s) of whatever variety will keep the temps in check enough to prevent breakdown of the oil for the hArdKor users.
 
I am definitely starting to appreciate how much pitch and roll the Comfort springs allow. I expect to do ~8-12 Autocross events and probably 4-6 track days in 2023.

My options for improving my Comforts, in order of overall improvement value on the track:

1) Swap to Sport coils ($500ish)
2) Swap to MPP.R coils in my Comfort dampers, including the requisite rear spring arms (Around $1200ish)
3) Swap to a full Sport kit to get the more aggressive dampers (probably around $1750 after selling my Comforts)
4) Swap to a full Sport kit plus MPP.R coils / spring arms (around $3000)

Separately, for a smaller road coarse (max speeds of around 105) that still turns my rotors blue but has yet to result in any brake fade, would it be worth upgrading to the MPP rear Big Brakes? I will probably move to to Xt970 rear pads either way.

I will also be adding a rear Oil Cooler and Compression Rod Bearings.

Thanks!
 
sway bars install will void warranty? i understood that coil overs do that.
what about brake hose?
Nothing will universally void the warranty; they have to prove that your modifications caused the failure.

If the end links fail, they might blame you. If the inverter at the other end of the car fails, it would be hard for them to prove it was your fault.
 
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Nothing will universally void the warranty; they have to prove that your modifications caused the failure.

If the end links fail, they might blame you. If the inverter at the other end of the car fails, it would be hard for them to prove it was your fault.
I will just chime in and say that Bogdan's profile says he is from Romania, so we should give this warranty advice with the caveat that this is how it legally works in North America, but it may not be how it works in Romania.
 
It would be interesting to see some back to back data comparing oil temps with and without these installed over a ~15 minute period on a racetrack.

Frankly, I doubt there is any real difference since there's almost no airflow getting to that area, and the increase in oil volume is negligible.

In addition, there's absolutely no reason at all to install these or any other oil cooling solution for street use. The oil will never get anywhere hot enough to degrade anything.
Another reason to be very skeptical of this guy's claims is that in fact the energy lost in Tesla's one gear "transmission" is markedly less than the energy loss associated with the 90° torque translation in traditional differentials and drive shafts. This is part of the reason (but not the whole reason) why Teslas accelerate faster than their power to weight ratio would suggest they could (and why their WHP ratings show less % drop than ICE vehicles, relative to engine/motor BHP) – they're losing only a few percent (vs. 14-20% in some 4 wheel drive systems) because you're never changing the plane of rotation from the motor to the wheels. That 90° Torque translation in a traditional transmission with many gears plus a differential costs way more energy, which is of course lost in terms of extra heat, whereas in the gear reduction in a Model 3 it's probably a few percent. That probably just means there's just a whole lot less heat to worry about in the transmission. This claim that our cars need this finned oil filter, as you said especially for street, is nonsense. I'm even skeptical that it's necessary on the track. I doubt even tracking gets the oil temp high enough to start breaking it down but without Data who knows. Obviously different story around the motor and battery.