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Master Thread: Definitive 14-50 NEMA Outlet Guide

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#341
FYI, for anyone buying the Hubbell 9450A or the Bryant 9450FR receptacles (which is what I did at Grainger, given it's much less expensive for essentially the same part) note that Leviton does make a clone of the SS701 face plate for the larger non-standard 2.465" diameter hole.
SS701-40

Given Home Depot and Lowes does not stock any similar plate, I looked around and found Ace Hardware does stock a version with model number 0S701-040. Just went and bought it and verified it is 2.465". Will install in weekend to know for sure if it fits, but not foreseeing an issue (given the other plates are much smaller and there doesn't appear to be a third type of size).
Leviton Silver 2 gang Stainless Steel Receptacle Wall Plate 1 pk - Ace Hardware

Here's the Amazon listing for what appears to be the same item looking at the pictures (shipped/sold by Amazon):
Amazon.com

They also sell a plastic version (and a 430 SS version called the SL701).
Amazon.com
And an aluminum finish:
https://www.amazon.com/Leviton-S701-GY-001-0S701-0Gy-Receptacle-Standard/dp/B000HEHF0W

So actually a lot of inexpensive options in a whole lot of finishes that doesn't have to be the actual Hubbell branded one (which is not as available). I'm going to use that Leviton plate with a 5/8" raised mud ring to give plenty of box volume (a minimum amount apparently is required to meet NEC even though a lot of DIY 14-50 installs don't even mention this). I'm going to be going with surface mount (given my subpanel is surface mounted), so the differences in depth don't really matter, but if you are installing in drywall then it may matter for you.

I was going to buy a raised 4"x4" exposed work cover instead of a stainless steel cover, but the Home Depot/Lowes local to me don't appear to stock the sizes that have the larger hole (they only have the ones for more standard 2-5/32" / 2.156" diameter holes) and I don't want to drive out of the way to get it. But for people interested in ones with larger holes, the Rayco 813C and Steel City RS14-10R appear to have the larger hole.
RACO 30-60 Receptacle Exposed Work Cover-813C - The Home Depot
Steel City 4 in. Pre-Galvanized Metal Square Electrical Box Surface Cover-RS14-10R - The Home Depot

Note if you are using a larger 4-11/16" box you would need to find a different work cover, probably the Raco 888:
888 | Raco
 
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#342
this thread has been great. I have a cheaper 14-50 that was put in the house from the builder, but I want to have my electrician swap it out for a Bryant (which he doesn't carry). Just want to verify what I need to purchase for this to fit in the wall replacing the current cheap one. Besides the Bryant 9450A, I need the SS701 cover for the larger plug. What kind of wall box works? Does the Hubbel 4" box work with the Bryant?
 
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#343
DLAv8r said:
this thread has been great. I have a cheaper 14-50 that was put in the house from the builder, but I want to have my electrician swap it out for a Bryant (which he doesn't carry). Just want to verify what I need to purchase for this to fit in the wall replacing the current cheap one. Besides the Bryant 9450A, I need the SS701 cover for the larger plug. What kind of wall box works? Does the Hubbel 4" box work with the Bryant?
Click to expand...
The specified install depth is 1.8 inch for the Bryant and the wires come from the side, so the standard 2-1/8" depth in most 4"x4" boxes will fit (assuming you don't have other wires in the box passing through), but you can double check the spec on your box. You can also make more depth by using a 1/2" or 5/8" deep mud ring, but if you are installing in drywall, your choices in depth will be limited by what you need to make the cover flush with your wall.

Note your electrician will also have to do a box fill calculation if you intend to meet NEC.

Luckily the 9450FR is still considered a single gang receptacle. It has the center screw holes for single gang mounting and the specs by retailers say it's single gang:
Bryant's catalog page A-25 says it can be mounted in single and two gang boxes (can be referenced in case inspector does not trust retailer specs):

Single gang allows it to only count for 2 conductors instead of 4, so the receptacle takes 5 cubic inches * 2 = 10 cubic inches. If inspector insists it is a two gang device this number doubles, which will cause problems.

Each 6 AWG conductor counts as
5 cu in, each 10 AWG counts as 2.5 cu in.

Means if you use four 6 AWG = 4*5= 20 cu in for conductors or 30 cu in total required in box volume. Most 4"x4"x2-1/8" boxes are just barely over 30 cu in, but you need to check the specs. A mud ring can add some more volume (how much would be listed in spec sheets), but using one depends on your final finish.

If you use a 10 AWG ground wire instead of 6 AWG, then you save 2.5 cu in, for total of 27.5 cu in required.
 
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#344
stopcrazypp said:
The specified install depth is 1.8 inch for the Bryant and the wires come from the side, so the standard 2-1/8" depth in most 4"x4" boxes will fit (assuming you don't have other wires in the box passing through), but you can double check the spec on your box. You can also make more depth by using a 1/2" or 5/8" deep mud ring, but if you are installing in drywall, your choices in depth will be limited by what you need to make the cover flush with your wall.

Note your electrician will also have to do a box fill calculation if you intend to meet NEC.

Luckily the 9450FR is still considered a single gang receptacle. It has the center screw holes for single gang mounting and the specs by retailers say it's single gang:
Bryant's catalog page A-25 says it can be mounted in single and two gang boxes (can be referenced in case inspector does not trust retailer specs):

Single gang allows it to only count for 2 conductors instead of 4, so the receptacle takes 5 cubic inches * 2 = 10 cubic inches. If inspector insists it is a two gang device this number doubles, which will cause problems.

Each 6 AWG conductor counts as
5 cu in, each 10 AWG counts as 2.5 cu in.

Means if you use four 6 AWG = 4*5= 20 cu in for conductors or 30 cu in total required in box volume. Most 4"x4"x2-1/8" boxes are just barely over 30 cu in, but you need to check the specs. A mud ring can add some more volume (how much would be listed in spec sheets), but using one depends on your final finish.

If you use a 10 AWG ground wire instead of 6 AWG, then you save 2.5 cu in, for total of 27.5 cu in required.
Click to expand...
Thank you very much for the informative reply and information!

I'm new to all this, curious why the Bryant plus is more affordable compared to the Hubbell? Should I just be done with it and go with the Hubbell? Bryant is going for around $45 currently on Grainger, while the Hubbell is around 80-100 on amazon and other places. I've been reading this thread and it appears the Bryant is equal quality so I'm wondering about the price disparity?
 
#345
DLAv8r said:
Thank you very much for the informative reply and information!

I'm new to all this, curious why the Bryant plus is more affordable compared to the Hubbell? Should I just be done with it and go with the Hubbell? Bryant is going for around $45 currently on Grainger, while the Hubbell is around 80-100 on amazon and other places. I've been reading this thread and it appears the Bryant is equal quality so I'm wondering about the price disparity?
Click to expand...
Bryant is owned by Hubbell. You should be fine with the Bryant.
 
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#346
DLAv8r said:
Thank you very much for the informative reply and information!

I'm new to all this, curious why the Bryant plus is more affordable compared to the Hubbell? Should I just be done with it and go with the Hubbell? Bryant is going for around $45 currently on Grainger, while the Hubbell is around 80-100 on amazon and other places. I've been reading this thread and it appears the Bryant is equal quality so I'm wondering about the price disparity?
Click to expand...
I was beat to it, but Hubbell owns Bryant and you will notice the Bryant catalog I linked is actually hosted on Hubbell's website. There doesn't appear to be any practical difference between the two (only difference as per first post in this thread appears to be the Allen screws sizes are slight different). I don't see any need to spend more money for the brand, so I personally just bought the Bryant at Grainger.
 
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#347
DLAv8r said:
Thank you very much for the informative reply and information!

I'm new to all this, curious why the Bryant plus is more affordable compared to the Hubbell? Should I just be done with it and go with the Hubbell? Bryant is going for around $45 currently on Grainger, while the Hubbell is around 80-100 on amazon and other places. I've been reading this thread and it appears the Bryant is equal quality so I'm wondering about the price disparity?
Click to expand...
Hubbell may be more expensive because they had to bring it back from the orbiting telescope? :)
 
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#350
In case of interest, here is a DIY charging box for our EV. The requirement was to prevent casual tampering, protect from snow and ice formation, and also to be easy to access (no key/thumprint/passcode). So the approach used was to secure just the cable to the wall, rather than try to have a locked enclosure. A Hiplok Ankr (wall anchor) was used which is removeable if/when we sell the house. There is a cutout bottom right to allow the door to be closed while charging. I plan to paint it and add a sloping roof later on.
 

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#351
Defender_Mk3 said:
In case of interest, here is a DIY charging box for our EV. The requirement was to prevent casual tampering, protect from snow and ice formation, and also to be easy to access (no key/thumprint/passcode). So the approach used was to secure just the cable to the wall, rather than try to have a locked enclosure. A Hiplok Ankr (wall anchor) was used which is removeable if/when we sell the house. There is a cutout bottom right to allow the door to be closed while charging. I plan to paint it and add a sloping roof later on.
Click to expand...
You have roving bands of Tesla charging cable thieves in your area? :)
 
#355
Defender_Mk3 said:
In case of interest, here is a DIY charging box for our EV. The requirement was to prevent casual tampering, protect from snow and ice formation, and also to be easy to access (no key/thumprint/passcode). So the approach used was to secure just the cable to the wall, rather than try to have a locked enclosure. A Hiplok Ankr (wall anchor) was used which is removeable if/when we sell the house. There is a cutout bottom right to allow the door to be closed while charging. I plan to paint it and add a sloping roof later on.
Click to expand...
Can you share what plug enclosure you're using?
 
#360
CosmosMpower said:
I bought the Bryant 1450R outlet but the standard levitron cover plate my electrician had did not fit. Any idea where to find the plate that fits the Bryant outlet?
Click to expand...

I found the Hubbell Plate unfortunately it was about 15 bucks which is a rip off. Looks like there are Levitron alternatives that fit the Hubbell/Bryant larger diameter outlet for 6-7 bucks but I saw it after I already picked this one up.

 
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