If it's 8 AWG that would be even better for OP, the issue is his is thinner than 10AWG.
So that ground wire must be 10AWG as I had bought some 8AWG and it wasn’t much bigger. I did find the Issue though and it was alluded in an earlier post. I got the Bryant working by installing the ground wire behind the wire clasp instead of where I thought to put it. It’s tightened by loosening the Allen nut, thus pushing the wire clasp towards the outlet front. Not sure if I need to do the same to the main 3 wires but it’s all working now.
This level of power is not something to have installed wrong. Is there some reason you think the four wire connection methods are not intended to be the same? Yes, I know that on common house outlets the ground is frequently a different look, but I believe on the bryant/hubbell they are all the same.
Got this fixed just now. All 4 wires going into the Bryant are now “squeezed” into the terminals. Very odd to be tightening the terminals by turning counter clockwise, but my charger is still happy.
What is the diameter of the ground wire? Solid round 10 AWG wire should be 0.102 inches (slightly larger than 3/32 inches) (2.59mm) in diameter.
I think I was wrong about that. For Bryant and Hubbell 14-50 outlets, the screws don't move in and out. They only turn. Here's a video showing the operation (for a Hubbell. The Bryant is identical):
Yes, excellent example. Clockwise is indeed the right direction for tightening. The conductors strands are supposed to be captured inside the triangle of brass, not outside the angled brass pieces.
Doing that though causes my lost ground issue. I can put the 3 main wires in the triangle of brass but if I do that with the ground wire it acts like it’s not there. I’ve even tried the pigtail with 8AWG and inside the brass triangle it gives a lost ground error. It works if I put the ground on the other side and push the triangle out.
I wonder if its a defective outlet. If nothing else, I'd put all four conductors on the correct (in)side of the triangle, and if you need it to be tighter for the ground, fold the last half inch of the ground conductor over once or twice to give it extra diameter. You shouldn't really have to do that though, if its at least 10 AWG.
I presume you did it like here starting at 14:10?
Yes, I did that initially and the ground wire was snug and would not come out. It still gave the lost ground issue. It only worked when I inserted the ground behind the triangle and turned the locking nut counterclockwise.
It seems to me that your 14-50 outlet may be damaged. If the ground connection is tight when installed the proper way, you shouldn't get an error that way but not when installed incorrectly.
It would be better to use 6-50 for that, rather than 14-50 with no neutral, since 14-50 with no neutral might be an annoyance to someone plugging something other than an EVSE into it and expecting it to be fully functional.
It will work in terms of functioning (I have tested with a multimeter and the neutral pin on the 14-50 adapter is not connected to any pin on the Mobile Connector side), but would likely be a code violation.
Thanks for confirming. 14-50 outlets would be more widely available to use at a friend's or elsewhere compared to 6-50; hence make sense to have the 14-50 adapter to use. Have seen electricians struggling to run 6-3 wires on conduits on many videos. We can still mark the outlet as EV charging only so that any other wont be used
