plusonechoi
Member
Glad you're able to get that repaired under warranty! Now, I feel like I should just take delivery in Fremont instead of having it transported to San Francisco...
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MASTER THREAD: Jack Points — location, use, damage, pads, etc.
- Thread starter Tam
- Start date
super20g
Member
Hopefully yours goes a little better than mine. In case you didn't read mine, they had the car for 7 weeks. Gave me a loaner that had damage and tags that expired 4-5 months prior. Gave my car back dirty (sap, bird crap, 7 weeks of dust and debris both inside and out) and damaged with a bogus repair order. A lot of interior plastic panels were scratched, carpet not reinstalled correctly, back seat damaged, new battery doesn't fully charge, wouldn't show me the battery health report, new battery makes banging sound intermittently now that it is cold out (perhaps new old stock that hasn't had the TSB for the breather replacements installed), etc... Service offered to create an estimate for me to pay to fix the damage myself... They replaced 1 interior part as goodwill some reason. I asked their general council if they would take care of it and they told me to file an arb case if I wasn't happy... I did. And now I wait.
Same problem just happened to my M3. Tried “POWER OFF” under ‘Safety & Security’. Waited for 5 minutes - might not even need 5 minutes. Tried ‘Camera’ again, and it worked - purple and green lines are all gone now!
Here is a jack adapter for Tesla’s
BASENOR Tesla Model 3 Jack Pad Pucks Jack Lift Pad Adapter Tool (Protects Battery & Chassis) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07QM6RNRH/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_WtF0Db0D6FQRY
BASENOR Tesla Model 3 Jack Pad Pucks Jack Lift Pad Adapter Tool (Protects Battery & Chassis) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07QM6RNRH/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_WtF0Db0D6FQRY
There is just way too much Tesla FUD with lifting point discussions.
Lifting / swapping wheels on Model 3 is brain-dead-simple.
If own a jack, and EVER lifted ANY car, you can lift Model 3 safely.
Same goes for any shop.
If they have not screwed up lifting other cars before (no car will withstand placing lifting jack points under the passenger floor! ), they wont harm your Model 3.
No special tools or pads required, as long as you jack has a nice flat saddle.
Putting a $2.50 hockey puck into that saddle, or buying Model 3 - specific lifting pads ($30-$100), would make the job slightly easier.
I just installed winter wheels+tires the other day. There was nothing remotely interesting to the job to justify taking pictures.
It is.
We do not.
Design oversight.
abwmma
Member
Burrito
Member
so, since lowering my car i can fit my floor jack and puck under the car anymore. my floor jack has a 3" flat square as a jack point, harbor freight 3 ton something or other... any harm in just lining up the "puck hole" with the center of the pad and jacking the car up?
You can drive onto a 2x4 to allow the jack to fit under the car.
Rothgarr
Active Member
That's exactly what I do. You can see them in my videos. For example, skip to 3:47 in the video below.
I actually made a little "ramp" out of some spare 2x4 material. Screwed the pieces together.
None.
But I would upgrade from HF to a quality low-profile jack for future use and convenience anyway.
I've seen far too many HF jacks fail at auotX/DE events, occasionally with damage to the car. They are light weight, but not very stable, nor excessively strong.
As an alternative, I've just seen a beefy looking and wide-based 3-ton jack at Costco:
https://www.costco.com/3-ton-profes...and-steel-service-jack.product.100222458.html
Burrito
Member
understood about the 2x4s but is there any reason a flat jackpoint on the "puck hole" would be bad?
Yes, some of the bolts from the pack go are installed from the inside. (A pack swap takes ~4.5 hours as they have to pull the interior apart and put it back together again.)
My repair is complete. The estimate included 9.5 hours of labor. I'm a bit shocked on the amount of interior items they need to remove for the battery replacement, seems like it could have been made easier. Anyway car is all good, it took 5 months but at least not it's resolved.
That’s interesting. I worked on a project with Tesla back in 2014 with a goal to replace the Model S battery pack in 3 minutes. That pack was completely removable from under the car. The most difficult part was moving a lift assist device in and out to carry the weight of the ~1500lb battery. The second most difficult take was lining up the power and coolant connectors when putting the new battery in so they didn’t get damaged. (They weren’t designed to be quick connect)
Project went live at Harris Ranch, CA for a few months, but ultimately there was less interest in it than Tesla had imagined. I think it was canned.
All that to say, I’m surprised the design on the 3 is so different.
I have this exact same problem! Someone on the Canadian Facebook page pointed this link out to me. I took it to the service centre in Oakville, ON Canada yesterday for them to take a look and they said they are going to send to head office and do investigation. They said they wanted to see if this had happened to anyone else - and now I know someone that did have this happen!
We also noticed this the first time the car was lifted in order to put on winter tires. I have also never had my car towed so it had to be prior to delivery at the Service Centre. Lesson learned (?) but I did not crawl under my car at the delivery which took approximately 15 minutes and they were practically shoving us out the door due to the amount of deliveries that day.
Interesting that I took delivery of my car May 30 - two days before you took delivery of your car.
We also noticed this the first time the car was lifted in order to put on winter tires. I have also never had my car towed so it had to be prior to delivery at the Service Centre. Lesson learned (?) but I did not crawl under my car at the delivery which took approximately 15 minutes and they were practically shoving us out the door due to the amount of deliveries that day.
Interesting that I took delivery of my car May 30 - two days before you took delivery of your car.
super20g
Member
Can you include pictures of your jack point damage? And update this thread when you hear back? Tesla told me I did the damage myself to try to wiggle out of responsibility. I have never jacked up the car or had it towed and have time stamped pictures from a few days after delivery... Having people like you and others with this issue report their experience, repair invoice, and last 6 of your vin help show that this is not something consumers are doing but rather a pre-delivery issue... If there is anything you don't want to post here, if you can PM me, it would be helpful. Thanks in advance.
burningchrome
Member
Got my M3P yesterday, drove it home, swapped out the 20s for some 18s. I'd done the googling and saw people pushing the hockey pucks as the only way to jack up the car. I just used some hard rubber jack pads and placed them under the jack points. Now, thinking forward to tire rotation, how am I going to put the car on jack stands? The jacking points are raised from the floor panel, and they bulge out from a ridge that runs the length of the side. I'm guessing that whole ridge is load bearing, but can anyone out there confirm?
How could you possibly do anything other than what Tesla recommends!?!? I came from a 2004 BMW M3. There are five recommended jacking points on the car. Everyone now knows that the four side points collapse after some time and are worthless. Just because there's a procedure for the service center to do something doesn't mean it's the only way to do it.
How could you possibly do anything other than what Tesla recommends!?!? I came from a 2004 BMW M3. There are five recommended jacking points on the car. Everyone now knows that the four side points collapse after some time and are worthless. Just because there's a procedure for the service center to do something doesn't mean it's the only way to do it.
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