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MASTER THREAD: Jack Points — location, use, damage, pads, etc.
- Thread starter Tam
- Start date
I use two scissor jacks to rotate tires on my S75D. No jack pad/puck needed. Each jack is rated for 2 tons. I would never put myself (or anything) under the car in that situation though.
Teedub21
Member
Dolemite
is my name
I received my Rennstands a few days ago & used them a couple of times so far. Noticed that after using them twice, my jack points are dented into the shape of the adapters - is anyone else's experience the same?
I don't think this is a big deal - I believe the battery case is aluminum, so there's no concern about corrosion. I've also *heard* that aluminum gets stronger as its dented... don't know about this one. But I'm trying to understand if my experience is unique or if I'm doing something wrong. I don't think I am.
In this video, it appears that his are also dented @ 5:18:
I don't think this is a big deal - I believe the battery case is aluminum, so there's no concern about corrosion. I've also *heard* that aluminum gets stronger as its dented... don't know about this one. But I'm trying to understand if my experience is unique or if I'm doing something wrong. I don't think I am.
In this video, it appears that his are also dented @ 5:18:
I have used the safejack with the same adapter as the one in the video from i1Tesla. I've had half the weight of the car on one jackstand for 24 hrs while i was installing lowering springs (got stuck because i didn't have a specific tool). I do not see any deformation on the jack points. I take my time to make sure the cylinder part correctly goes into the hole before jacking up. If it does not go into the hole fully it will snap into it at a certain point and possibly cause a dent.
Dolemite
is my name
Since my thread was pointlessly merged into this one, nobody will see my specific question, so I'm quoting you guys directly... any similar experiences?
That's an important thing to look out for, but a non-issue in my case. I found another video where the jack points are dented - see @ 3:13, it looks like the square has imprinted a bit into the jack point:
I think partly what may be going on is that 1) the legs slip a little bit as they "expand" on my epoxy garage floor. This is even AFTER I make an effort to "push out" the legs 2) I may be the only one who's already raised it to maximum height? That inevitably requires a higher "angle of attack" - may be best to do in 2 stages, should you want to raise the car as high as possible.
I always go for the minimum height i can where i can get the legs under. I guess there will be quite a bit of twisting force on the jack point if the car is lifted to maximum height. At that point, the inside part of the jack pad will hold most of the weight in a smaller area. Regardless, the jack point should not be deforming.
PianoAl
Active Member
I want to be able to jack up the car to remove a tire to repair it. I figure I only need one jack pad. Is that correct?
I'll probably get this one: https://www.amazon.com/BASENOR-Adapter-Protects-Battery-Chassis/dp/B07QM6RNRH
I'll probably get this one: https://www.amazon.com/BASENOR-Adapter-Protects-Battery-Chassis/dp/B07QM6RNRH
jdcollins5
Member
For DIY home tire repair or rotation, yes.
If you take your car for service and need to put it on a lift, and they do not have the jack pads, you will need 4.
If you take your car for service and need to put it on a lift, and they do not have the jack pads, you will need 4.
You actually don't need any jack pads! Just use a flat lifting surface and you're fine, Tesla themselves don't use pads.
Lots of people use the harbor freight racing jack which has a flat lifting surface: 1.5 Ton Aluminum Rapid Pump® Racing Floor Jack
I've personally used that without a jackpad at least 20 times, no problems.
Lots of people use the harbor freight racing jack which has a flat lifting surface: 1.5 Ton Aluminum Rapid Pump® Racing Floor Jack
I've personally used that without a jackpad at least 20 times, no problems.
PianoAl
Active Member
Thanks.
I will note that I've rotated tires many times with no jack stands, and it only requires one extra jacking (five instead of four). That is, spare on, move tire, jack, move tire, ... spare off.
I agree, if the car is not perfectly level, it will shift and fall even on a BMW. It would be worse on the M3 because there is no pin to hold the jack in place. Also, this jack set cost more than the Harbor Freights 1.5 ton aluminum floor jack on sale a poster just listed. Even with one jack pod, it costs less than the unsafe BMW scissor jack. Every car, from Toyota to Mercedes scissor jack will shift with the slightest off axis pressure. To use it on a Tesla is absolutely not wise. I got the 2 ton version because the wheel is slightly wider and a full set of pucks.
PianoAl
Active Member
My rear jack points are being damaged just by driving. They stick out a bit and the areas facing the front of the car are being eaten up, likely by dirt projections. Lots of sand on the roads in winter around here.
I asked service how to stop this and they had nothing to say. I sprayed gravel guard but it wears off rapidly too, not very effective. Maybe I’m not applying it properly?
I asked service how to stop this and they had nothing to say. I sprayed gravel guard but it wears off rapidly too, not very effective. Maybe I’m not applying it properly?
jdcollins5
Member
JRP3
Hyperactive Member
Winter roads with salt and sand?
Note that it’s not the lowest part that’s damaged, which would be if it were scraped by touching the ground - it’s the surfaces facing the front of the car, that is, the sides of the jack point protrusion facing forward. Also the inside of the hole, that faces the front.
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