Dolemite
is my name
I’m lowered about 1.5” on MPP coilovers and have no clearance issues using the short blocks on the 5000SLX. It’s close but not problematic in any way. It’s close enough to where it actually makes alignment easier.
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MASTER THREAD: Jack Points — location, use, damage, pads, etc.
- Thread starter Tam
- Start date
JCtx
Member
Hey gang, are these jack pads a good buy? https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07YKK7LKH/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A2LMJ2R55J79AB&psc=1. I like that they should stay in place, like when going for service. I wouldn't drive with them on, but you can install them right at the shop, and remove them before leaving the parking lot.
Have an unrelated question, but folks who have jacked up their car should know: Which suspension type do our cars have front and rear? I think rear is multi-link, but no idea in the front. Hopefully not struts. Thx.
Have an unrelated question, but folks who have jacked up their car should know: Which suspension type do our cars have front and rear? I think rear is multi-link, but no idea in the front. Hopefully not struts. Thx.
JRP3
Hyperactive Member
These look the same but a few dollars cheaper https://www.amazon.com/CPROSP-Tesla-Model-Lifting-Adapter/dp/B08NSFSPXZ/
Ludalicious
Active Member
I bought 2 of these Murphy's Law Jack pads.... Both broke.. Complete garbage
It's already been mentioned, but I can understand not everyone wants to read the entire thread (especially after it was annoyingly merged): you don't need extra jack pads. Furthermore, if your car is lowered, it will be pretty much impossible to fit a jack under with an extra pad installed. For home use, just get a jack with a proper pad. I use this one to get things started, as my car is lowered. I can't fit my "regular" jack with Jackpoint adapter until I get things a bit up in the air.
As far as installing extra pads for service, you're likely to just annoy the techs.
As far as installing extra pads for service, you're likely to just annoy the techs.
That jack doesn't look like it has the proper pad... have you destroyed the little circle cut outs where the jack pads normally go?
That jack is fine. It will do no damage to the chassis. You can jack it up with no pad and not do damage. People are way too concerned about this.
SK360
Member
Just throwing these here... borrowed a set of QuickJack 5000SLX from a buddy. We used them both ways on 2 different cars and had no problems using the included lift blocks.
HankLloydRight
No Roads
SK360
Member
JCtx
Member
SK360
Member
Nope, they come with their own self contained hydraulic pump and you can get it either in 120v or 12v.
JRP3
Hyperactive Member
JRP3
Hyperactive Member
Jack up the car, pull one wheel, use blocks under the lower suspension arm and repeat. A good source of blocks can be cutoffs from a local landscaping company, they often have short pieces of pressure treated 4x4, 6x6, 6x8 and 8x8 which would otherwise go to a landfill.
100% agree with this. I wasted money on these things at the beginning because everyone was making a big fuss about it.
If you think about what these "lift pads" are trying to accomplish, they're essentially just aligning the hole for you and reducing the amount of clearance for your jack. Invest in a low profile hypdraulic jack with a large rubber jack pad area, align it to the hole and you're golden.
Our car is lowered than most Model 3s and we jack it up and down more than most Model 3 owners for testing. We stopped using these lift pads months ago and we haven't experience any issues. As you can see, we just barely have enough clearance with our lower profile hydraulic jack, without the need to use wood blocks.
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