Master thread: Model 3 12v Battery issues, monitoring, Aftermarket replacement

[elptxjc]

There is a whole thread on this issue. There are plastic supports under that trim piece that break really easily.

No wonder I couldn't lock the damn thing. Ha ha. But mine doesn't lock below AND above; just the 3 clips at each side, which is more than enough IMO. At least that extra part would solve the issue below the cover. Hey, do you happen to have a link to that thread? Couldn't find it. Hopefully somebody is making that part, and I can just buy it, since I don't know anybody with a 3D printer. I'm sure somebody messed with my car, since the 12V positive (red) cover was broken, the frunk flimsy (those broken parts), and a white pin missing. Not a big deal, but no sense in trying to make Tesla fix that, no? They probably wouldn't even know what the hell I'm talking about. Ha ha.

 

[KenC]

I would guess that it is even safer to leave the old battery connected. Even if it has a shorted cell in the old battery, it most likely won't be a dead short and the voltage will still come up to the voltage of your GB40 when properly connected. But it is somewhat of guesswork, as batteries can fail in different ways.

Another guess I have is the DC2DC converter is activated as soon as the car is ready to drive. Perhaps a foot on the brake pedal or putting the car in gear.

I received my new 13 volt lithium battery today, but I don't have an error message or any problem yet with my stock 12 VDC battery. I have the new battery in the Frunk along with a 10 MM open end wrench. I have not yet decided if I should replace the battery with the new one or just wait until there is an indication that I have a bad 12V battery.

But even if I do NOT replace it, within a few days I will do some testing with the 12V battery just to find out when the DC2DC comes on and to see if the neg side uses the frame ground, if there is a frame ground in there that I can get to.

I have a few other projects to work on first.

-Don- Auburn, CA

Pre-emptive replacement is obviously the safest approach; however, in the name of science, waiting for a failure, would add to the knowledge for others to benefit from.

 

[DonTom]

There are 3D printed parts that fix it and work amazingly well. I do not have a 3D printer so I used an online service to print mine. Worked great. Here is a video of the fix —

Is this also a fix for that?

-Don- Auburn, CA

 

[jmbloom_m3p]

Is this also a fix for that?

-Don- Auburn, CA

I don’t think so. That looks quite different than the replacement. If you watch the YouTube video you can see exactly what breaks and what the 3D printed part replaces to fix it.

 

[jmbloom_m3p]

Let me see if I can find the thread. I could not find someone making it. Just the models so I had it printed. It was not cheap to print with the highest quality heat resistant plastics but it was a perfect repair. I wonder if you can find someone on the site with a printer who would be willing

No wonder I couldn't lock the damn thing. Ha ha. But mine doesn't lock below AND above; just the 3 clips at each side, which is more than enough IMO. At least that extra part would solve the issue below the cover. Hey, do you happen to have a link to that thread? Couldn't find it. Hopefully somebody is making that part, and I can just buy it, since I don't know anybody with a 3D printer. I'm sure somebody messed with my car, since the 12V positive (red) cover was broken, the frunk flimsy (those broken parts), and a white pin missing. Not a big deal, but no sense in trying to make Tesla fix that, no? They probably wouldn't even know what the hell I'm talking about. Ha ha.

 

[elptxjc]

Let me see if I can find the thread.

Thank you. Somebody with a printer should make them and sell them here, or on eBay/Amazon. I don't plan to call Tesla since a replacement would crap out again the first time you push on the damn thing. I want that design in black, and made with good plastic, like ABS. You don't need anything special for that IMO.

 

[DonTom]

I don’t think so. That looks quite different than the replacement. If you watch the YouTube video you can see exactly what breaks and what the 3D printed part replaces to fix it.

I did watch the video, and that was what made me ask. It looks like the entire bar is replaced, not just the little cheap plastic thingies. But I still am not sure.

If the ebay thingy isn't for that, what is it?

-Don- Auburn, CA

 

[elptxjc]

If any of you find those clever parts for sale anywhere, please post a link . I'd like to buy a pair, to at least engage the clips next to the frunk. Thank you.