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Range Loss Over Time, What Can Be Expected, Efficiency, How to Maintain Battery Health

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@AlanSubie4Life is trying to help you, but in order for him to give you any information you will need to do the calculations shown in the MANNER in which they are shown, in this thread:


But there is almost positively nothing wrong with your car. The calculation would just let you know what the energy capacity of your vehicle is. There is nothing you are going to do to change the wh/km numbers other than driving slower, or over less terrain, etc.
Oh cool will do the calculations tomo when i am in the car. Thank you. I just dont get how all people saying they do 300km plus woth this cars but with mine 250 is already and achivment!
 
Did you do this right away? Did you stop? I'd be surprised if you charged to 77%, immediately started driving and didn't stop until you got to 31%, and that somehow used just 20.6kWh.

I'd expect if you, with 466km on the display at 100%, started at 77% and went to 31%, driving continuously without any stops (NOT LOOKING AT THE SINCE LAST CHARGE DISPLAY - use the trip display), would use (466km*(0.77-0.31) * 230Wh/rmi(displayed)/1.6093rkm/rmi) = 30.6kWh. (You used 234/230*30.6kWh = 31.1kWh)

Car doesn't show use while in park, which is considerable if you use the features. 10kWh is entirely reasonable usage for a couple days (or less) with certain features enabled.

Anyway, your battery contains 466km*152Wh/km = 71kWh, of which 68kWh are usable. And you'll see a max of about 67.5kWh on the trip meter if you drive from 100% to 0% in one continuous journey without stopping.
I see. The car was parked for 2days and dis small drives duringthe day but sentry mode was off when parked during day and night.
 
I see. The car was parked for 2days and dis small drives duringthe day but sentry mode was off when parked during day and night.
Yeah, lots of possibilities. If you have cabin overheat protection with A/C on that'll really suck it down like a champ. It'll time out after 12 hours but if you're doing little day trips and parked in the sun you'll really use a bunch of energy.
 
Yeah, lots of possibilities. If you have cabin overheat protection with A/C on that'll really suck it down like a champ. It'll time out after 12 hours but if you're doing little day trips and parked in the sun you'll really use a bunch of energy.
So you think is normal to have this consumption? I am just a lot frustrated as I thought i will be able to do 300-350 miles per charging easly. Do you k ow is long range new model or performance does way more miles?
 
So you think is normal to have this consumption? I am just a lot frustrated as I thought i will be able to do 300-350 miles per charging easly. Do you k ow is long range new model or performance does way more miles?
Yep, totally normal. Turn off the features if you don't like them. (Cabin overheat protection - OFF. Sentry Mode - OFF. Smart Summon - OFF.).

The new models behave the same way for these issues.

You'll never be able to do 300-350 miles. 300-350km should be possible if you charge to 100%.
 
Yep, totally normal. Turn off the features if you don't like them. (Cabin overheat protection - OFF. Sentry Mode - OFF. Smart Summon - OFF.).

The new models behave the same way for these issues.

You'll never be able to do 300-350 miles. 300-350km should be possible if you charge to 100%.
Thank you so mich for the time you spent for the reply! Two more questions and i am done haha. Is ok to fastcharg on other charging station than tesla. I have one close is charging 250km/h. And is it ok to super charge few times a week? I found many diff answers to that but you seems a guy who knows a lot. Thank you
 
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Thank you so mich for the time you spent for the reply! Two more questions and i am done haha. Is ok to fastcharg on other charging station than tesla. I have one close is charging 250km/h. And is it ok to super charge few times a week? I found many diff answers to that but you seems a guy who knows a lot. Thank you
Personally I'd limit supercharging to when you need it. But a 38kW charge rate at a fast charger (what ~250km/hr works out to be) is going to be pretty gentle on the battery relative to supercharging (for SOCs below 60% anyway).

I'd just charge from an AC source if you can. I don't base this on anything specifically from Model 3s - it's more from the history of Tesla which has limited supercharging on prior vehicles. We just don't know. May as well keep it for when you need it. If you're going to dump the car in a couple years, just use the fast chargers to your heart's content. EVs are supposed to be easy to use and if fast chargers are important to you, you should use them.
 
Personally I'd limit supercharging to when you need it. But a 38kW charge rate at a fast charger (what ~250km/hr works out to be) is going to be pretty gentle on the battery relative to supercharging (for SOCs below 60% anyway).

I'd just charge from an AC source if you can. I don't base this on anything specifically from Model 3s - it's more from the history of Tesla which has limited supercharging on prior vehicles. We just don't know. May as well keep it for when you need it. If you're going to dump the car in a couple years, just use the fast chargers to your heart's content. EVs are supposed to be easy to use and if fast chargers are important to you, you should use them.
Ok thank you!!! Have a great day!
 
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I dont think @Sophias_dad dad was missing the point. Your complaint is, basically "why have I lost 8 miles off my 90% range number?", which is the same basic question being asked by almost everyone else. Weather doesnt impact RATED range (at least not till it gets so cold the battery locks out part of the capacity). Weather impacts ACTUAL range.

Your total battery capacity is reduced, which has nothing to do with how efficiently you drive or not.
ok so maybe I am being a bit thick here. If I drive a petrol or diesel car which I have both and I drive more efficiently the next time I fill up my range will have increased. This is with the same amount of fuel but driving every where at full pelf and then driving very economically will give 2 very different ranges when I refill. This is what I am getting at. I am not complaining about losing 8 % . The battery has a capacity so surely driving it at the two extremes would result in range going up when driven like a baby and range going down when driven hard. If I drive to work nicely I use 47 Tesla miles for a 50 mile journey. If I drive it hard I use 75 miles for that same journey. Therefore in my logic excluding the 8% loss surely your range is bigger driving slowly than driving quickly. Therefore my issue was not the loss of the 8% but why I lost 8% whilst driving the car slowly for the last 5000 miles
 
ok so maybe I am being a bit thick here. If I drive a petrol or diesel car which I have both and I drive more efficiently the next time I fill up my range will have increased. This is with the same amount of fuel but driving every where at full pelf and then driving very economically will give 2 very different ranges when I refill. This is what I am getting at.
The Tesla range estimate is not a guess-o-meter that is based on your past driving. It is a fixed calculation based on the model of your car, the wheels selected, and the estimated amount of energy in your battery. So the way you drive over time does not influence the range estimate like it does on your petrol or diesel car.
 
Therefore my issue was not the loss of the 8% but why I lost 8% whilst driving the car slowly for the last 5000 miles

Think of the % SoC display as a very accurate fuel gauge which displays your remaining energy ("fuel"), relative to the "full" value.

The only slight twist here is that unlike a fuel tank, the size of your energy tank when full reduces over time, particularly for the first year or two, as the battery capacity is reduced. (If you want to avoid this complication, just switch to "distance" display.) I believe this was the issue you were encountering in your original post (???). Anyway, the energy your battery holds is not really related to how you've driven in the past (to first order - exceptions might exist if you're REALLY abusing the battery, since that might lead to accelerated capacity loss, but probably not).

Your battery has just lost a bit of capacity, that is all. Perfectly normal. Your vehicle started at something around 340rmi (~75kWh, it's hard limited to that in "Europe" ( ;) ) rather than ~353 miles) and now it's down to 71kWh (322rmi) or thereabouts.
 
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Think of the % SoC display as a very accurate fuel gauge which displays your remaining energy ("fuel"), relative to the "full" value.

The only slight twist here is that unlike a fuel tank, the size of your energy tank when full reduces over time, particularly for the first year or two, as the battery capacity is reduced. (If you want to avoid this complication, just switch to "distance" display.) I believe this was the issue you were encountering in your original post (???). Anyway, the energy your battery holds is not really related to how you've driven in the past (to first order - exceptions might exist if you're REALLY abusing the battery, since that might lead to accelerated capacity loss, but probably not).

Your battery has just lost a bit of capacity, that is all. Perfectly normal. Your vehicle started at something around 340rmi (~75kWh, it's hard limited to that in "Europe" ( ;) ) rather than ~353 miles) and now it's down to 71kWh (322rmi) or thereabouts.
Ok now I am with you. So no matter how I drive the total range will not be impacted when I recharge and it’s just a complete coincidence that the range reduced as I drove slower which is what has confused me. Thanks for this.
 
Hello to all.
I will normally receive a TM3 SR+ LFP next month. I would like to know your expert opinion about best practices in order to keep the battery in good health. I read that we can charge the battery to 100% regularly unlike Li-Ion. Is that true?
 
Been trending down for a while ... finally went sub-200 wh/mile lifetime, with over 30,000 miles. 2018 LR RWD with 18" aero wheel caps. Mostly solo commuting with relatively little freeway driving. Not a hypermiler, but I do try to stay off the brake pedal and rely on regenerative braking Not much need for A/C or heating in San Diego.
Mine is now at 205 miles at full charge. Model 3 standard range 2020(bought January). Close to 47 miles degradation. Due to the pandemic , I hardly drive(~9K miles) Less than 500 miles/month. Is this what other are observing too? I am not sure would be good to know. Looks like you have had better luck with your car. If this is the case with other model 3s then its bad news.
 
Mine is now at 205 miles at full charge. Model 3 standard range 2020(bought January). Close to 47 miles degradation. Due to the pandemic , I hardly drive(~9K miles) Less than 500 miles/month. Is this what other are observing too? I am not sure would be good to know. Looks like you have had better luck with your car. If this is the case with other model 3s then its bad news.
Could you provide a picture? That seems pretty extreme for that low a mileage and sort-of-new vehicle. It's not the case with other Model 3s (generally appear to be about half of your value).
 
Bolt EV offers an EPA-estimated 259 miles of range,† on a full charge,
owners are advised to keep the car outside and avoid overnight charging. Also, users should only charge the car to 90 percent full and keep the battery above 70 miles of remaining range.

That gives 137 miles. Lets say real world is less, maybe 100 miles.
Great little car.
 
Just realized that having a car parked for days affects your displayed range. It drops over the time but it has nothing to do with degradation. It seems like a car just divides its total mileage to total battery usage and uses that number in calculations. Having it parked with AC or Sentry mode results in severe power loss with zero mileage increase resulting in higher average number. I.e. at 3k miles I got a maximum range of 236 miles and in three months at 4k miles I have it at 206 while the predicted range is much higher - about ~250 miles. My average consumption is about 200 Wh/mile while the car total average is now more than 250 Wh/mile and rising without any meaningful reason so I assume it counts even when it's standing parked. I'll try to have it connected to the wall charger all the time to see if anything changes.
 
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Just realized that having a car parked for days affects your displayed range. It drops over the time but it has nothing to do with degradation. It seems like a car just divides its total mileage to total battery usage and uses that number in calculations. Having it parked with AC or Sentry mode results in severe power loss with zero mileage increase resulting in higher average number. I.e. at 3k miles I got a maximum range of 236 miles and in three months at 4k miles I have it at 206 while the predicted range is much higher - about ~250 miles. My average consumption is about 200 Wh/mile while the car total average is now more than 250 Wh/mile and rising without any meaningful reason so I assume it counts even when it's standing parked. I'll try to have it connected to the wall charger all the time to see if anything changes.
This is really odd.

You are correct that your displayed range changes based on available kWh which drops as power is used.

However, this power usage is not counted in your Wh/mile odometer display.