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Range Loss Over Time, What Can Be Expected, Efficiency, How to Maintain Battery Health

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There have been a few instances of these batteries temporarily getting the wrong BMS read (really wrong - temporarily showing over 20% capacity loss which nearly entirely recovered).

So you could try some of the deep discharge techniques here, make sure your car is sleeping, etc.

And since cooler weather is coming, consider charging to only 60-75% or so if that can work for your needs. It’s better from a regen perspective, worse from a performance standpoint. It may not make much difference to aging, but some people have success with it (it’s hard to establish causation though).
Thanks. I bought the performance to drive fast so charging lower would definitely not work for me. I've read that all these short trips may impact this somehow. I've put in a ticket with tesla. I don't even drive enough to do a lot of deep discharges. Any other ideas? Showed 260 at 90 percent after the charge. If this keeps up ill probably sell the car while the market is hot. Or maybe im overreacting? Is this range meter dependant on anything other than battery (eg weather driving habits etc)
 
Thanks. I bought the performance to drive fast so charging lower would definitely not work for me. I've read that all these short trips may impact this somehow. I've put in a ticket with tesla. I don't even drive enough to do a lot of deep discharges. Any other ideas? Showed 260 at 90 percent after the charge. If this keeps up ill probably sell the car while the market is hot. Or maybe im overreacting? Is this range meter dependant on anything other than battery (eg weather driving habits etc)
If you’re never deep discharging it is a lot harder for the BMS to keep a proper estimation. So hard to say whether what you are seeing is real or not.

In the end you at least need to try a bit of a change in habits to see if you get a recovery.

It could well be real (8% loss). But it’s hard to say without investigating.

Tesla will say your battery looks great most likely but you never know.
 
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My baseline assumption has been that 2020 vehicles have the same battery as earlier vehicles, and only in late 2020 did we see the 82.1kWh packs start to roll out in the 2021 models (and those may behave differently).

But maybe there were subtle changes between 2017/2018 and 2020 in the exact chemistry and manufacturing of the cells, which will impact calendar aging.
Yes, it's possible (and more likely than not, IMO) that 2020 batteries are the same as 2018-2019 batteries, but who knows given how often Tesla changes things.

Per @GigaGrunt’s very well informed post below from early 2020, we’re on at least the 3rd iteration of chemistry for Model 3. How degradation has changed with these iterations is not (publicly) known.

The battery tech in Model 3 sold today is more advanced than a Model 3 from 2018. The Y will have newer battery tech than a 2018 Model 3. Cell chemistry has advanced. 3/Y are about see 3rd iteration of cell tech by end of year easily.
 
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If you’re never deep discharging it is a lot harder for the BMS to keep a proper estimation. So hard to say whether what you are seeing is real or not.

In the end you at least need to try a bit of a change in habits to see if you get a recovery.

It could well be real (8% loss). But it’s hard to say without investigating.

Tesla will say your battery looks great most likely but you never know.
I tried to avoid this rabbit hole but the mobile app shows you miles now. 8 percent in 10 months at 6k miles is beyond unreasonable if true.
 
Per @GigaGrunt’s very well informed post below from early 2020, we’re on at least the 3rd iteration of chemistry for Model 3. How degradation has changed with these iterations is not (publicly) known.
Yes, there may well have been subtle changes as I said.

However the degree of change required for the 82.1kWh cells probably is at a different level than those prior iterations. Required new cell lines, etc., so more substantial changes would have been possible to bring up off line without fear of disrupting the manufacturing line.

In the end no one outside of Tesla knows how the different generation may behave and we just have to see what the data says.
 
I tried to avoid this rabbit hole but the mobile app shows you miles now. 8 percent in 10 months at 6k miles is beyond unreasonable if true.
I know people who had that experience with the 2018 generation of cells (and it was real - it hasn’t budged much in the subsequent two years). We have very limited such reports for 2021 vehicles.

Whether you want to investigate is up to you. It seems fine to have Tesla tell you all is well (or not), so your strategy seems fine.
 
I know people who had that experience with the 2018 generation of cells (and it was real - it hasn’t budged much in the subsequent two years). We have very limited such reports for 2021 vehicles.

Whether you want to investigate is up to you. It seems fine to have Tesla tell you all is well (or not), so your strategy seems fine.
When you say hasn't budged do you mean the range loss continues at a high rate or that it has stayed stable? I mean it it stays at 8 percent ish I suppose I could live with it.
 
Thanks. I bought the performance to drive fast so charging lower would definitely not work for me. I've read that all these short trips may impact this somehow. I've put in a ticket with tesla. I don't even drive enough to do a lot of deep discharges. Any other ideas? Showed 260 at 90 percent after the charge. If this keeps up ill probably sell the car while the market is hot. Or maybe im overreacting? Is this range meter dependant on anything other than battery (eg weather driving habits etc)
If you need higher SOC for range or performance, use what needed but try to avoid having the car standing for long time with high SOC.
It is the Time x SOC x Temp that cause the most degradation and you can use high SOC, large DOD without causing very high degradation from these conditions.

Use the setting to have the charge to be finished not too long before you leave with the car. Then the car will not have many hours standing with high SOC.
 
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Also, the app in the phone does not show the real full charge range every time, at least it doesnt for me.
Most often it shows a much lower range than the car does at full charge. Some time it show the same number but not that often.
So using the app as a degradation meter is not that good.
 
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Also, the app in the phone does not show the real full charge range every time, at least it doesnt for me.
Most often it shows a much lower range than the car does at full charge. Some time it show the same number but not that often.
So using the app as a degradation meter is not that good.
Yes. On this front, @clerks , you could take a picture of your energy screen as detailed elsewhere (sticky post here). If you post that picture, taken specifically as outlined in that thread, we would be able to see better what the issue is, if any.

you mean the range loss continues at a high rate or that it has stayed stable?
Stayed stable. It’s quite common for capacity loss to be initially fast and then slow down a lot.
 
ScanMyTesla has also single cells info now.
Do you know what means the greenish bar under the cells voltage value ?
Cells are well balanced but greenish bars lenght is not the same.
My battery has 69.6 kwh at the moment.
Those readings are at 83% SOC.
 

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When you say hasn't budged do you mean the range loss continues at a high rate or that it has stayed stable? I mean it it stays at 8 percent ish I suppose I could live with it.
I add a little to @alansubie4ever’s post:

Calendar aging is highest initially and lessens further on. But it is very dependent on the SOC and temperature.
Of you use low SOC and st low ambient temps it quite quickly revert to a straight line, virtually horizontal. On the other hand, high SOC and high temps will cause a much higher degradation and the leveling out will not occur, and the slope will be clear.

In the picture below 3.45v = about 20-25% SOC. 3.7V = about 50% SOC. 4.1V = about 90% SOC.
If you are at the left picture, 20-25% SOC and 10-25 degrees you start level of after the first 200 days and after 2 years the degradation will be low, onfly a few percent.
If you are at 4.1V/ 90% and 40 degrees you still are going down rapidly after two years.

28FF01F5-9008-4C3A-929A-D0C6318DD324.jpeg


This picture refers to Panasonic 18650 NCA cells( quite close to Model S and Model 3 for chemistry).
Taken from this very good research report:
https://mediatum.ub.tum.de/doc/1355829/file.pdf
Its way more than 100 pages so its *Battery nerd level reading* :)

I know which road I would choose, and I have already gone that way, since day one with my M3P
 
Dave's recent post reminded me that I wanted to ask about this graphic that AAKEE posted. It seems to show a sharp break between aging about 55% and lower, versus aging at 60% and above. The text to the right of the graphic seems to address this a little, but, it's hard to read since it's cut off.
image.jpeg

Can anyone explain what is happening in this region?
...
If you want to maximize battery life, keep the average SOC as low as possible, keep the discharges as shallow as possible and keep the battery as cool as possible. I believe that for your average commuting use of 20-30 miles a day, if you don't want to plug in every day, you are better off charging to 70-80%, then recharging at around 30% after 3-5 days. This will lower your average SOC which I believe to be a bigger driver of capacity loss than cycling loss for most people. I currently cycle between 25-55% for most of my use - above 55% appears to be a threshold where calendar loss accelerates according to data that @AAKEE has posted.
...
 
Dave's recent post reminded me that I wanted to ask about this graphic that AAKEE posted. It seems to show a sharp break between aging about 55% and lower, versus aging at 60% and above. The text to the right of the graphic seems to address this a little, but, it's hard to read since it's cut off.
View attachment 721862
Can anyone explain what is happening in this region?
This is because the main cause of degradation is having a low anode
potential.
Central graphite peak

This ”step” is present in all research reports but in some research it is hidden by the fact that in these tests they setup the tests with few datapoints, for example only measure degradation at 0, 25, 50, 75 and 100% SOC.
The line drawn between the datapoints do not represent the reality and hide the step.
I guess this is deep enough described?

To go deep into this I recommend:
https://iopscience.iop.org/article/10.1149/2.0091701jes
Not that many pages and not too hard to read/understand.(still *Nerd level warning*)
 
I add a little to @alansubie4ever’s post:

Calendar aging is highest initially and lessens further on. But it is very dependent on the SOC and temperature.
Of you use low SOC and st low ambient temps it quite quickly revert to a straight line, virtually horizontal. On the other hand, high SOC and high temps will cause a much higher degradation and the leveling out will not occur, and the slope will be clear.

In the picture below 3.45v = about 20-25% SOC. 3.7V = about 50% SOC. 4.1V = about 90% SOC.
If you are at the left picture, 20-25% SOC and 10-25 degrees you start level of after the first 200 days and after 2 years the degradation will be low, onfly a few percent.
If you are at 4.1V/ 90% and 40 degrees you still are going down rapidly after two years.

View attachment 721847

This picture refers to Panasonic 18650 NCA cells( quite close to Model S and Model 3 for chemistry).
Taken from this very good research report:
https://mediatum.ub.tum.de/doc/1355829/file.pdf
Its way more than 100 pages so its *Battery nerd level reading* :)

I know which road I would choose, and I have already gone that way, since day one with my M3P
Appreciate the replies. Yeah I would say my car has largely say at 80 ish percent since delivery on average. I live in Pittsburgh so it's not in hot weather all that much. Looks like I need to keep the car at a lower SOC although that's a bummer because it takes away the performance. I'll run the screen test but im a little afraid.
 
New question - will modifications to the car affect the screen calculation? I am running wider 20s, lowering springs, a front splitter and wheel spacers. As a result of these modifications I regularly get lower range than projected. I assume those are affecting my average consumption calculations? If so wouldn't that alter the calculation? Edit and mudflaps
 
New question - will modifications to the car affect the screen calculation? I am running wider 20s, lowering springs, a front splitter and wheel spacers. As a result of these modifications I regularly get lower range than projected. I assume those are affecting my average consumption calculations? If so wouldn't that alter the calculation? Edit and mudflaps
No. The remaining range estimate is not a guess-o-meter like other manufacturers.
Thanks. I probably wasn't clear. Not referring to the range estimator at the top left. I am referring to the energy app, consunption tab and the references to historical avg wh/mi and projected range. My car requires more wh/mi because of these modifications so wouldn't that throw off the calculation of projected range?