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Range Loss Over Time, What Can Be Expected, Efficiency, How to Maintain Battery Health

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I'm a new m3lr owner and I'm sure I have some setting wrong somewhere so any help would be appreciated.

I charge my car to 267 miles, I think thats about 80% I drive 25 miles to work but the remaining miles will be down to about 220. I'll precondition the car while its plugged in at home. Its cold out and ill have the temp set to 70° and I have the music turned up but should it really drop that much?

I do have sentry on at work but when I get back to my car it will be down to about 190 miles left which seems like a lot of loss.

Then another 25 miles back home but could be anywhere from 160 to 150 miles left on the battery.

I have noticed that when I get out of work there is always a 60 min clip so I know I have some setting wrong somewhere but it still doesn't make sense to me on how much I'm losing while driving

Your post was moved to this thread because it is (like many before it) a post about "Why does my car use more miles than are on the screen"?

In short, miles will almost never roll off at 1:1 because the car does not store miles, it stores energy, and energy use is higher in the winter. You are also doing a bunch of things that use energy (leaving sentry mode on, pre conditioning etc).

The biggest mistake people make with these cars is something along the lines of "I only drive 25 miles a day, this car has 300 mile range, I should be able to charge once every 8-9 days and have plenty left over. It will never (ever) work like that.

There isnt anything wrong with your car. To minimize your energy usage:

1. Stop using sentry mode (will use 1-2 miles of range per hour, or somewhere around 20 miles every 24 hour period).
2. Ensure cabin overheat protection isnt on
3. Ensure standby summon isnt on
4. Only pre condition the car when its plugged into a circuit that can provide enough energy to cover the pre conditioning (a standard 15amp outlet doesnt provide enough to cover that in winter)
5. Come to grips with the fact that in winter the car will likely use approximately 20-30% more energgy than when its warmer
6. Dont expect miles to roll off 1:1 unless you drive like the epa tests which is the same as ICE vehicles.
 
its just that its much less heard about with the S than with the 3.

Perhaps that's simply because the Models S and X only represent 2.6% of Tesla's sales (as of 2021)? The vast, overwhelming majority of Teslas out there now are 3s and Ys so it makes sense that the majority of battery issues heard about are from the 3 and Y.

As another data point, my early 2018 Model 3 had 0% degradation the first year, and slightly less than 8% degradation after 4 years (45 months) 30k miles.
 
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Your post was moved to this thread because it is (like many before it) a post about "Why does my car use more miles than are on the screen"?

In short, miles will almost never roll off at 1:1 because the car does not store miles, it stores energy, and energy use is higher in the winter. You are also doing a bunch of things that use energy (leaving sentry mode on, pre conditioning etc).

The biggest mistake people make with these cars is something along the lines of "I only drive 25 miles a day, this car has 300 mile range, I should be able to charge once every 8-9 days and have plenty left over. It will never (ever) work like that.

There isnt anything wrong with your car. To minimize your energy usage:

1. Stop using sentry mode (will use 1-2 miles of range per hour, or somewhere around 20 miles every 24 hour period).
2. Ensure cabin overheat protection isnt on
3. Ensure standby summon isnt on
4. Only pre condition the car when its plugged into a circuit that can provide enough energy to cover the pre conditioning (a standard 15amp outlet doesnt provide enough to cover that in winter)
5. Come to grips with the fact that in winter the car will likely use approximately 20-30% more energgy than when its warmer
6. Dont expect miles to roll off 1:1 unless you drive like the epa tests which is the same as ICE vehicles.
My only thing with that is I'm losing more than 20 miles in 10 hours with sentry on
 
Perhaps that's simply because the Models S and X only represent 2.6% of Tesla's sales (as of 2021)? The vast, overwhelming majority of Teslas out there now are 3s and Ys so it makes sense that the majority of battery issues heard about are from the 3 and Y.

As another data point, my early 2018 Model 3 had 0% degradation the first year, and slightly less than 8% degradation after 4 years (45 months) 30k miles.

I have over 25k miles and my mileage when full is about 290 miles. I guess thats about 6-7% degradation which is similar to yours.
 
Perhaps that's simply because the Models S and X only represent 2.6% of Tesla's sales (as of 2021)? The vast, overwhelming majority of Teslas out there now are 3s and Ys so it makes sense that the majority of battery issues heard about are from the 3 and Y.

As another data point, my early 2018 Model 3 had 0% degradation the first year, and slightly less than 8% degradation after 4 years (45 months) 30k miles.

wow, really? <3% are S/X?


Does anyone here have teslafi on their S and can show us what the actual degradation curve is? then we will see. average vs average
 
Hi. I took delivery of a Tesla 3 SR+ in October. I have been mainly charging it to 80 percent with my home charger, and a few days a week on my work level 2 charger. This seems to be what Tesla advises (slow charging over fast charging). Never used a supercharger. Anyway I looked to see what my 100 charge limit is now and it says 244 miles, which is about 10 percent lower than the 263 it said a few months ago when I got it. I've driven a bit over 5000 miles if that matters. That seems like very high degradation. Should I be concerned? Or rather, I AM concerned but is it normal?
 
...few months ago when I got it...
Make sure when you compare, the temperature should be the same: Summer for Summer, and not Summer vs Winter.
...Should I be concerned?...
You can work yourself up all you want but Tesla is not going to fix the problem if your car still has 70% capacity.

You should enjoy your car and should only be concerned when it can only retain less than 70% capacity and you are out of battery warranty

..but is it normal?
I would say it is normal because your data doesn't indicate that there's something wrong.

The lower range could be because it's a cold winter.

It could be because the calculation from the Battery Management System (BMS) is off.

It sounds like your car is Lithium Iron Phosphate (LFP), so your daily setting the charge at 80% is wrong which can get the BMS miscalculation worse. It should be 100%.

If your battery is traditional Lithium, then 80% is not conducive to the calculation for the BMS either. Please read what the Service Center wrote on the receipt: Should be 90%.

Even when the BMS calculation is wrong, it doesn't mean your battery is bad. You just need to obey what Tesla instructs you and the BMS accuracy will gradually be corrected.
 
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Hi. I took delivery of a Tesla 3 SR+ in October. I have been mainly charging it to 80 percent with my home charger, and a few days a week on my work level 2 charger. This seems to be what Tesla advises (slow charging over fast charging). Never used a supercharger. Anyway I looked to see what my 100 charge limit is now and it says 244 miles, which is about 10 percent lower than the 263 it said a few months ago when I got it. I've driven a bit over 5000 miles if that matters. That seems like very high degradation. Should I be concerned? Or rather, I AM concerned but is it normal?
Low end of normal range.
 
Make sure when you compare, the temperature should be the same: Summer for Summer, and not Summer vs Winter.

You can work yourself up all you want but Tesla is not going to fix the problem if your car still has 70% capacity.

You should enjoy your car and should only be concerned when it can only retain less than 70% capacity and you are out of battery warranty


I would say it is normal because your data doesn't indicate that there's something wrong.

The lower range could be because it's a cold winter.

It could be because the calculation from the Battery Management System (BMS) is off.

It sounds like your car is Lithium Iron Phosphate (LFP), so your daily setting the charge at 80% is wrong which can get the BMS miscalculation worse. It should be 100%.

If your battery is traditional Lithium, then 80% is not conducive to the calculation for the BMS either. Please read what the Service Center wrote on the receipt: Should be 90%.

Even when the BMS calculation is wrong, it doesn't mean your battery is bad. You just need to obey what Tesla instructs you and the BMS accuracy will gradually be corrected.
Not an LFP battery so per my manual it shouldn't be charged to 100 percent. My issue is that 100 percent, or 90 percent is suddenly less than it was but maybe it's just been cold. Seems like a quick drop thought and it's been cold for several months.
 
ETA: I'll charge to 90 percent consistently from now on to see if it adjusts. Thx for the info.
You're at 7% down in 4 months. Normal seems to be about 5% in 6 months, so you're not that far off the norm, just on the low end of the normal range. Typically, the curve flattens and then range drop slows. 10% after 2yrs seems fairly common.

Having said that, some range loss is calendar aging, and some seems to be usage. Usage is typically fast charging and fast discharging and keeping your battery at high SOCs. You're not supercharging, so there's minimal fast charging losses, but keeping your battery at lower SOCs is better than higher. What you choose to use, is a tradeoff between convenience, higher SOCs, and battery longevity, lower SOCs.
 
I have 4700 miles on my 2021 LR model 3. I use to up until 3 weeks ago get 315 on 90 percent charge. I am now getting 306 range on 90 percent charge. If I go to full charge it reads 342. I charge at 40v and fill up daily what I use, the app was already setup to charge to 90 percent I figured since the app was set that way why not. This seems like to soon to lose this much range loss. I sent a mobile request to have service come out they canceled my appointment and said they did a diagnostic and found nothing wrong. How hell can nothing be wrong when I have only had the car for a few months. At this range loss I will be out of battery within a few years.
 
I sent a mobile request to have service come out they canceled my appointment and said they did a diagnostic and found nothing wrong. How hell can nothing be wrong when I have only had the car for a few months. At this range loss I will be out of battery within a few years.

The warranty is for 70% capacity, at 8 years or 120k miles. Unless or until you hit those marks, there is absolutely zero point in contacting tesla (which is why they canceled your appointment).

You can search through this thread I moved your post to for more information, but for a very cliff notes version (very very), expect approximately 6-10% loss the first year, tapering off some after that.
 
Hi, im trying to figure out battery degradation on my model 3.
I've used the calculation that i found on here somewhere and get the following (see screenshot): 174*318/0,79 = 70.04.
calculation used: (wh/km)*(projected km)/SoC percentage.

Stats:
Tesla model 3 LR from march 2021. (EU car, type E3CD).
49.000 km on it (30447 miles).
If i slide the charge bar in the app to 100% it says 511 km.

I am trying to figure out:
1. What is my degradation.
2. What is the max capacity of my battery.

With my own calculation i get a battery capacity of 70.04 kWh, and according to the chart from TomaGo, the capacity should be 77,8 kWh. Seems to be a degradation of 10% in less than a year? Did i make some mistake in calculating this?
 

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Hi, im trying to figure out battery degradation on my model 3.
I've used the calculation that i found on here somewhere and get the following (see screenshot): 174*318/0,79 = 70.04.
calculation used: (wh/km)*(projected km)/SoC percentage.

Stats:
Tesla model 3 LR from march 2021. (EU car, type E3CD).
49.000 km on it (30447 miles).
If i slide the charge bar in the app to 100% it says 511 km.

I am trying to figure out:
1. What is my degradation.
2. What is the max capacity of my battery.

With my own calculation i get a battery capacity of 70.04 kWh, and according to the chart from TomaGo, the capacity should be 77,8 kWh. Seems to be a degradation of 10% in less than a year? Did i make some mistake in calculating this?

You have the E3CD in Europe, so your Panasonic battery was/is soft locked to ~75kWh when new (mostly accurate reference chart here). All capacity loss is relative to that (the 2.8kWh "buffer" doesn't give you a "buffer" against capacity loss; there is a portion of the battery which will never be accessible to you which scales in proportion to the capacity loss).

Your calculations seem largely correct. This is normal; the car is a year old and has quite a few cycles on it. You have a capacity of 70kWh, usable about 66.9kWh, with a starting capacity of 75kWh (71.5kWh usable). If there were no soft lock, you'd have about 72.6kWh capacity, usable 69.5kWh, from a starting point of 77.8kWh.

Keep enjoying the car! Your battery looks to be in excellent shape, performing normally with just ~6.5% capacity loss after nearly a year and a good amount of use. Again, it's not 10%; your range at 100% never exceeded ~547km (not 568km).