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Range Loss Over Time, What Can Be Expected, Efficiency, How to Maintain Battery Health

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Do whats right for you but a counterpoint is that the one time I need it for a long drive and my battery is at 55%, i can top off at a Supercharger for 10 min and not worry about it.
That might work for you, but it doesn't work for everyone. (Not everyone lives where there are lots of Superchargers in every direction.) For example the closest Supercharger to me is ~30 minutes away, and is normally in the opposite direction that I would need to go. So that top-off would add over an hour to my trip.
 
so sounds like you have perhaps a bit more juice than what the car suggests.

I arrived from the 240km drive from my new work yesterday night.
25% SOC at arrival, which had been more or less the same daily value retirning from my old work( 55 to 20-35% depending on how cold etc.).
I did a full charge wehen I left for the triå one week ago. Before I had NFP = 80.4-80.5 but now it climbed to 80.9.

Doesnt seem really plausible, even if one can suspect that the big cycle with a 100% charge ”showed” the capacity to the BMS.
It clear from before that my battery has a greater capacity than modt others, but I put 99% of the cudos to the charging habits, and not the battery lottery.
My battery should be down to about 79.5 or so by now. A full cycle test will tell us.
 
That might work for you, but it doesn't work for everyone. (Not everyone lives where there are lots of Superchargers in every direction.)

The nearest supercharger for me is 1hr away. It’s nearly in the right direction when I need to head to England. But based on the past year I’m sure that will be fine as long as we have a minimum of 50 mile range (emergency). That will get us to a major hospital and back with some room to spare.
 
It’s kinda like the same argument that ICE owners have about EVs where the EV doesn't meet their one a year roadtrip requirement so they refuse to look at EV ownership.
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I was the same until I read an article where the CEO of Polestar said that we’ll look back and wonder why we were so obsessed with huge mileages for EVs especially as charging is getting better. It got me thinking to why I was so concerned with having a 500 mile range. The challenge is making them affordable for people that usually spend or lease a £25k on a new car and having a decent range.
 
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I arrived from the 240km drive from my new work yesterday night.
25% SOC at arrival, which had been more or less the same daily value retirning from my old work( 55 to 20-35% depending on how cold etc.).
I did a full charge wehen I left for the triå one week ago. Before I had NFP = 80.4-80.5 but now it climbed to 80.9.

Doesnt seem really plausible, even if one can suspect that the big cycle with a 100% charge ”showed” the capacity to the BMS.
It clear from before that my battery has a greater capacity than modt others, but I put 99% of the cudos to the charging habits, and not the battery lottery.
My battery should be down to about 79.5 or so by now. A full cycle test will tell us.
battery lottey is the main reason your battery is doing well.
 
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@DrChaos This is the basics about calendar aging:
View attachment 777406
Calendar aging ”eat” about 5% the first year for most people. It is quite temperature dependant but most people either can affect the ambient temperature or know about this part so to be tactical with the SOc is the only remaining option.

Calendar aging is worst in the begining but lessens with (about) the square root of time. If first year causes 5% you will not reach 10% until four years( square root of four = 2 —> doubled the first years aging after four years).

Worst case scenario for cyclic aging is that the battery holds upp for about 500-1000 cycles before the degradstion reaches 20%( thats the industry standard, so research tests use 20% degradation) if its used 100 to 0% each time.
Lets call that 750 cycles @ 350km =262.500 km, for a cyclic loss of 20%.
Most people do not use those full cycles so the battery wear is much less / cycle pr km driven.
The average car in sweden is driven about 12000km a year, so we are looking at about 1% (or much less) each year for a average driven car.

In average we probably have some 5% calendar aging the first year but less than 1% cyclic aging.
I had a question regards how NMC and NCA battery chemistry properties compare. I think my battery (EU MIC E5CD) is based on NMC chemistry. Looking at the graphs you show here, although I can see a difference in terms of high temperature/high SoC, there doesn't appear to be so much difference between these two at lower temperatures and SoCs. My M3 was delivered 30/09/21 and I started to use SMT 12/01/22, I also started to apply your recommendations in terms of storage and charging at that time. At that second date I saw NFP of 74 kWh. Since then it dropped to 73.9. For the moment it seems to go up and down around 73.6-73.8, often as a function of charging (or so it seems). Range seems fairly constant around 533-540 Km. Do you know of any other major differences? Would you expect a similar degradation profile as for NCA?
 
I had a question regards how NMC and NCA battery chemistry properties compare. I think my battery (EU MIC E5CD) is based on NMC chemistry. Looking at the graphs you show here, although I can see a difference in terms of high temperature/high SoC, there doesn't appear to be so much difference between these two at lower temperatures and SoCs. My M3 was delivered 30/09/21 and I started to use SMT 12/01/22, I also started to apply your recommendations in terms of storage and charging at that time. At that second date I saw NFP of 74 kWh. Since then it dropped to 73.9. For the moment it seems to go up and down around 73.6-73.8, often as a function of charging (or so it seems). Range seems fairly constant around 533-540 Km. Do you know of any other major differences? Would you expect a similar degradation profile as for NCA?
To be very clear before answering:
Despite using the ”latest” data from recent research reports we can not be sure about the exact behaviour of the current batteries that Tesla use in the cars. One example is the reduction of cobalt and increase of lithium to increase the capacity that might change the behaviour. I havent dug deep into this but Im quite sure cobalt is stabilizing to the battery. Reducing cobalt could make the battery life shorter, for example.
We still can adopt the basics as a specific chemistry probably behave about the same. The rate of change might differ but the mechanism mist probably is there.

In general NCA have been slightly better at resisting calendar aging and NMC had been clearly better at resisting cyclic aging. Most research do not go into the exact chemistry of the tested cells( for example if the NMC is 5-3-2 parts of N + M + C or if it is 8-1-1) and Tesla do not speak open about exact chemistry.
The first Panasonic 2170 cells has about 59% less cobalt than the initial 18650 used in early Tesla Model S.
2170L has got even more reduction but the number is not exposed.


I would guess that we probably will see about the behavior we see in research reports.
NMC batteries probably have about the same calendar aging. If any difference, slightly more calendar aging, specially if people leave the car with 90% SOC or more.

My guess is that you would have a higher loss/degradation if you had used higher SOC. As you say, at low SOC and normal temperature the calendar aging probably is about as low as for NCA.
The low degradation you have had for about 5-6 months points to this.

(The range and the capacity follows strict as each 137Wh (I think it is) is the same as 1km range.)
 
Not sure what my batter code is - and also not quarter 3
82 kWh lr delivered in March. NFP 77.
Mostly charged to 60%, for the past few months 50. 10k miles, maybe 10 superchargers use. Stays in Arizona where ambient temperature in the summer is 100f+
In Europe the 82 kWh is called 3L, variant code = E3LD. Anyway, it is the new Panasonic, battery cell called 2170L. NCA chemistry.

Most 2170L/ ”E3LD” begin at about 80-8-kWh for the performance at least. Unsure for the US LR as the LR’s in seem to be ”capped” at least on the screen.

So you probably lost about 3kWh since new?
3.75-4% or so in one year? Not bad for a hot climate.
 
I bought a 2020 Tesla model 3, dual motor. My range at 100% is 274 miles. This is odd as I thought the dual motor was long range? This is my 4h Tesla too, so I absolutely love the company. Either way, the car is still a keeper... just curious if I missed something. When I do a VIN look up on teslatap, it shows: Dual Motor - Standard Model 3

I honestly did not know that they made standard models with AWD.

Am I missing something? lol
TIA
 
I bought a 2020 Tesla model 3, dual motor. My range at 100% is 274 miles. This is odd as I thought the dual motor was long range? This is my 4h Tesla too, so I absolutely love the company. Either way, the car is still a keeper... just curious if I missed something. When I do a VIN look up on teslatap, it shows: Dual Motor - Standard Model 3

I honestly did not know that they made standard models with AWD.

Am I missing something? lol
TIA

How many miles are on the car? The EPA rating was 322 miles for a 2020 AWD LR. At 274 miles that is a 15% battery degradation compared to the original 322, which is not out of the ordinary. The BMS could also need calibration.

Thats probably one of the reasons (15% degradation, 46k Miles on a 2020) the OP found the car for sale used in the first place, would be my guess. I doubt any calibration would change anything. Some cars have more degradation than others.
 
46k miles
Is the calibration something I can do in a setting or requires a trip to the service center? Thank you
No, the service center will do nothing. It may or may not help as results vary, but if the previous owner kept the state of charge at around the same percentage a lot, the BMS never “saw” a varied range of charging percentages and thus its estimation accuracy isn’t as good.

What you can do is let your battery sit at different states of charge (aka percentages like 25, 50, and 75) with no sentry mode on and no querying from the app for at least 4 hours each time. Once you do that at varying states of charge over a few days or a week, charge it to 100% until it says “charging complete“ and see if it changed the total miles.

It can also simply be a case of battery degradation over time and the 274 miles is correct.