Given the length of this thread, I can only conclude there is a Tesla DashCam software bug. Mine quit working a day ago, and I the high endurance MicroSD with a USB adapter. I don't even get an icon. I've rebooted the car, reformatted the disk, etc. My prior high quality USB drive that I used works and gives me the DashCam icon, but then I get error messages about needing higher write speeds. And this USB drive is rated VERY high.
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jrweiss98020
Tessa's Tesla
High ratings may not guarantee that individual units will last the MTBF or TBW. Try sending it back under warranty, along with a description of the problem.
BTW, have you tried writing to it when attached to a PC, to verify whether it will actually accept data at a reasonable rate?
BTW, have you tried writing to it when attached to a PC, to verify whether it will actually accept data at a reasonable rate?
The problems described in this thread (any many others) is a problem solved many
years ago with the TRIM command, see Trim (computing) - Wikipedia
To have TRIM work, you need:
A storage device that supports the command set
(I've never seen a thumb drive that does)
A transport that supports it as in the ATA-usb bridge.
A file system that supports TRIM (I've never seen at FAT32 implementation)
File system support for TRIM in the host operating system
(does Tesla do this ?).
Any one of those missing means no TRIM, and you get :
"progressive performance degradation of write operations"
To find more information google "TRIM file system support"
jp
years ago with the TRIM command, see Trim (computing) - Wikipedia
To have TRIM work, you need:
A storage device that supports the command set
(I've never seen a thumb drive that does)
A transport that supports it as in the ATA-usb bridge.
A file system that supports TRIM (I've never seen at FAT32 implementation)
File system support for TRIM in the host operating system
(does Tesla do this ?).
Any one of those missing means no TRIM, and you get :
"progressive performance degradation of write operations"
To find more information google "TRIM file system support"
jp
linux-works
Active Member
TRIM is good stuff and for some reason, lots of people (even in tech) still don't know about it.
# fstrim -v /
I don't have it on cron, but I do it before builds and when I want the disk 'cleaned up'.
if you let it go too long, your disk does slow down, for sure.
but again, its not on all filesystems and all 'transports'. sata and ssd is 100% though, and so is native nvme (not sure about nvme-over-usb).
# fstrim -v /
I don't have it on cron, but I do it before builds and when I want the disk 'cleaned up'.
if you let it go too long, your disk does slow down, for sure.
but again, its not on all filesystems and all 'transports'. sata and ssd is 100% though, and so is native nvme (not sure about nvme-over-usb).
XLR82XS
D M C
I thought it was a software issue as well but turned out it wasnt. I tried many drives recommended but finally went with the Pure Tesla drive and have not had ANY issues since. Flawless operation working as designed.
Shaun5
Member
How long have you been using the Pure Tesla drive? I went with the Sandisk 128 GB high endurance memory card and adapter route - both of which were listed in this thread as working. Worked fine for several months. A few weeks ago, it just stopped working. No dashcam icon and the car did not recognize that a storage device was plugged in. I have two Teslas and have two memory cards and adapters. This problem happened in both Teslas (Model S and Model 3). Reformatting the cards didn't work.
I figured I might have damaged the card by unplugging it before turning off the dashcam, even though the card still works in my computer, so I bought a new card - same type. Plugged it in and it worked for one day. Parked the car in my garage overnight and the next morning, no more dashcam icon.
linux-works
Active Member
this may be useful to some of you, out there, who want to KNOW if your card is ok and what kind of performance it gets.
only catch is: it runs on linux. but, you can always download a bootable thumbdrive .iso and run from that, not even having to change your hard-disk at all.
here's the link:
AltraMayor/f3
its open source and may build on windows. I've used it on linux on a work-based project to validate an industrial grade sd-card and it was a great tool to have. hard to find if you search for it, so I'm posting the link here.
and while I'm on the subject, here's a windows util that may help, it resets the default config (there are 'hidden' areas on sd-cards that normal format does not change, but if the card is corrupted, its best to use the proper 'init' tool and this is the de-factor one BY the sd-card association; the ones that certify the sd-card standard).
home page: Home - SD Association
download: SD Memory Card Formatter 5.0 for SD/SDHC/SDXC
note, it does NOT format fat32 ;( sadly, they buy into that ex-fat nonsense. but it still has value; it will reset the hidden areas in your sd-card and THEN you can use a fat32 format util to put a proper format on that card. I don't know of any formaters that reset the card like this sd-card-association util does, so its handy to know about.
only catch is: it runs on linux. but, you can always download a bootable thumbdrive .iso and run from that, not even having to change your hard-disk at all.
here's the link:
AltraMayor/f3
its open source and may build on windows. I've used it on linux on a work-based project to validate an industrial grade sd-card and it was a great tool to have. hard to find if you search for it, so I'm posting the link here.
and while I'm on the subject, here's a windows util that may help, it resets the default config (there are 'hidden' areas on sd-cards that normal format does not change, but if the card is corrupted, its best to use the proper 'init' tool and this is the de-factor one BY the sd-card association; the ones that certify the sd-card standard).
home page: Home - SD Association
download: SD Memory Card Formatter 5.0 for SD/SDHC/SDXC
note, it does NOT format fat32 ;( sadly, they buy into that ex-fat nonsense. but it still has value; it will reset the hidden areas in your sd-card and THEN you can use a fat32 format util to put a proper format on that card. I don't know of any formaters that reset the card like this sd-card-association util does, so its handy to know about.
Recent text thread with Tesla service dept:
TESLA:
The 4 MB/s sustained sequential write speed is for USB 2.0 measurements. The 5MB/s listed for the USB listed is for Peak write speeds using USB 3.0. This may be why you are still receiving the message for a slow USB drive.
We can advise on a brand but if you do a search on line, you can find what other Model 3 owners are having success with. For know I do not see any errors with the hardware in the vehicle, I would like to close the ticket. You can always open another one if you feel something might be wrong with the car. Thank you
*We can not advise on a brand.
ME:
No. I am using a usb 3.0 drive.
Do not close the ticket
Just cancel. Typical customer no service. I'm on my second USB 3.0 drive that does not work on a consistent basis which make sentry mode and my drive cam inoperable which is a feature of the car. Tesla should have just provided either internal storage or their own drive to avoid your excuses.
TESLA:
The 4 MB/s sustained sequential write speed is for USB 2.0 measurements. The 5MB/s listed for the USB listed is for Peak write speeds using USB 3.0. This may be why you are still receiving the message for a slow USB drive.
We can advise on a brand but if you do a search on line, you can find what other Model 3 owners are having success with. For know I do not see any errors with the hardware in the vehicle, I would like to close the ticket. You can always open another one if you feel something might be wrong with the car. Thank you
*We can not advise on a brand.
ME:
No. I am using a usb 3.0 drive.
Do not close the ticket
Just cancel. Typical customer no service. I'm on my second USB 3.0 drive that does not work on a consistent basis which make sentry mode and my drive cam inoperable which is a feature of the car. Tesla should have just provided either internal storage or their own drive to avoid your excuses.
linux-works
Active Member
its kind of funny, in a way; I recommend higher priced industrial grade sd-cards and I get pounced upon, saying its overkill. but do you have any idea how much it would cost for a true auto-grade ssd to be built into the car, that will have enough wear that it can do the job and last for, say, 4 years of cam usage?
people complain about 'expensive' sd-cards, but real car grade ssd is super expensive.
I do basically agree with you on that, though; if they embedded enough local storage, we would not need a user-supplied hack. the usb slot is GREAT for music and other non-critical things. but it was never really meant for video, where we really WANT it to be there if/when that accident or break-in happens. I think its much more than asil-b level, myself - its that important to many of us, that it should be properly architected and redundant.
people complain about 'expensive' sd-cards, but real car grade ssd is super expensive.
I do basically agree with you on that, though; if they embedded enough local storage, we would not need a user-supplied hack. the usb slot is GREAT for music and other non-critical things. but it was never really meant for video, where we really WANT it to be there if/when that accident or break-in happens. I think its much more than asil-b level, myself - its that important to many of us, that it should be properly architected and redundant.
kkillebrew
Banned
If the drive works when you first use it then it's likely that many problems perceived to be memory stick failures are actually corrupted partitions resulting in low performance and lost space. A low level re-partitioning will bring them back and uncover lost space when a format fails. This can be done using many programs - OSX Disk Manager or DOS Fdisk for instance.
There seems to be a lot of potential for this with Sentry - pulling the stick at the wrong time is the obvious culprit, but it could also be something within the software that fragments or corrupts the disk partition.
In any case I have been using a PNY 128GB USB 3.0 stick since I got the car eight months ago. I have had to resurrect it twice in the above manner, but never replace it.
There seems to be a lot of potential for this with Sentry - pulling the stick at the wrong time is the obvious culprit, but it could also be something within the software that fragments or corrupts the disk partition.
In any case I have been using a PNY 128GB USB 3.0 stick since I got the car eight months ago. I have had to resurrect it twice in the above manner, but never replace it.
Knightshade
Well-Known Member
Because it provable and factually is.
You've been shown the math several times now.
Did you miss where it was shown to you, repeatedly, how utterly unneeded "high grade" anything is to last 4 years?
A 128GB drive, even with relatively average consumer-grade flash, is going to last significant more years typically. And 256GB one double that.
Because, again, basic math:
A decent consumer grade flash drive from Samsung or somebody using TLC is gonna be rated for 3000-5000 complete write cycles. Let's go with the lowest end of that range, 3000 write cycles.
Teslacam is writing ~7.2 gigs an hour... so 9 hours a day common use (8 hours at work, 1 hour drive to/from) you're writing 64.8 GB a day.
A 128GB key would use 1 full cycle every 1.975 days. Let's call it once every 2 days for easy math (and you're probably using it less on weekends anyway).
3000 cycles times 2 days= 6000 days... or about 16.4 years to use 3000 write cycles.
Over 32 years on a 256GB key.
Even running dashcam 24/7/365 works out to using up 1.35 cycles per day... (3000/1.35)/365= just over 6 years of 24/7/365 use on a 128GB key.
Over 12 years on a 256GB one.
And again that's using the low end expected life of the drive.
I mean, it's your money- waste it however you like.... meanwhile my 128GB Samsung USB key has continued to work flawlessly for 16 months now, no issues.
Once every 3 months or so I pull it, clear out unneeded saved stuff (because all flash tends to slow down if you let it get really full), and put it back in.
linux-works
Active Member
KS triggered again.
why you keep following me, man? its like a religion to you or something? sheesh. give it a rest!
why you keep following me, man? its like a religion to you or something? sheesh. give it a rest!
Knightshade
Well-Known Member
You keep using that word. I do not think it means what you think it means.
Err... I've been in the thread (and on the forum) way longer than you have dude. So again your facts appear to be backward.
I'm sorry math disproving your claims makes you so angry though.
linux-works
Active Member
for the majority of time on earth, man thought the world was flat and that the earth was the center of the universe.
your time on this forum is not relevant to the facts.
I'd prefer not to have to put you on ignore, but please stop trolling on my posts. its not needed and you are not adding any value by doing this crap in public. if you have an issue with me, lets take it privately, ok?
Knightshade
Well-Known Member
My time on the thread is relevant to your (now debunked) claim I 'followed' you to this topic though.
I know you dislike facts, but there ya go.
Correcting your nonsense claims with actual facts and math, in a thread I was already posting in before yuo even got here, is kinda the opposite of trolling man.
I don't have any issue with you- I have issue with you repeatedly making claims that don't stand up to a smell (or fact) check- like the amount of years you'll get out of consumer grade flash with the (relatively) low amount of data Teslacam is writing to it.
See again the math above debunking your "you need commercial grade to get for years" claim you keep making in the face of all evidence to the contrary.
I dunno why you keep taking facts and math so personally.
What model is your Samsung drive? (Sorry if you already mentioned it)
I got a 128GB SanDisk cruzer last year, but it hasn't worked at all for me. The car only wrote about 3GB of data onto it, and then decided that the drive was too slow (sometimes it also says that the drive is full). Tried formatting a couple of times but no luck. Granted I did get the cheapest 128GB USB stick available, so maybe I cheaped out too much.
Knightshade
Well-Known Member
I have the 256 GB USB 3 version of the same drive and have had no issues with it in 7 months of continual use.
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