Winter driving advice, winter tire choices, etc.

[Penguinology]

Thanks, any problems with the paint from all the winter road salt?

I just picked up a set of Continental Vikingcontact 7s for my first winter in the 3. This is their first year selling them in the US, but the reviews put them at the top of any euro list I've been able to find. I got them for $200 each installed, which was $50 cheaper each than the R3. I live in lake effect snow country, and it shocks me every year how everyone around me complains about diving in the snow. Good snow tires, make life good.

 

[zannman]

Since there are probably a lot of people heading into their first winter with a Model 3 I thought I'd start a tip thread.

I have a LR RWD which I got July '18. I've driven it through one Minnesota winter. Here's a few things from my experience.
...
If you have any more tips, please add them to the thread.

I haven't done my first winter with the 3 yet. The only other things I'm concerned about that you didn't directly address are:

• Wipers - Should they be set to Manual when there is a threat of ice/snow? Heavy frost?
• Mirrors - Auto-Fold off based on the same conditions? I wonder whether this should just be temperature interlocked to begin with.
• Windows - Any issues with frozen window/door seals not allowing entry?
• Frunk - Is it still usable at all in snowy/icy conditions due to potential frozen seals, weight of snow/ice, etc?

Thank you for your thoughts on this.

 

[nicholb]

I haven't done my first winter with the 3 yet. The only other things I'm concerned about that you didn't directly address are:

• Wipers - Should they be set to Manual when there is a threat of ice/snow? Heavy frost?
• Mirrors - Auto-Fold off based on the same conditions? I wonder whether this should just be temperature interlocked to begin with.
• Windows - Any issues with frozen window/door seals not allowing entry?
• Frunk - Is it still usable at all in snowy/icy conditions due to potential frozen seals, weight of snow/ice, etc?

Thank you for your thoughts on this.

Last winter you definitely needed to use manual settings on the wipers in snow, but the auto programming is always changing. For the most part it is improving.

Never had any problem with the folding mirrors freezing and I have not seen any posts about that.

Personally I've not had the windows freeze to the door seals, but I've seen some posts from others who have. I would say if the seals are wet and it is going to freeze, dry them off. Or if you park in a garage I've seen post that some people put the windows down a few inches at night.

Never had any problems with the frunk, but you would have to brush off any snow before opening.

 

[minsup23]

My battery is I set it to 60% with charge time at 5am. I got up and noticed it was 57%. I decided to charge back up to 60% and an hour later, it was back down to 59%. It got in the 30s last night but the car is in the garage. I thought the car draws power from the house when plugged in. Is this normal? And this morning again, it’s back down to 57% after a few hours

 

[Beardley]

Thanks, any problems with the paint from all the winter road salt?

I guess we're going to find out! This will be my first winter with the Tesla.

 

[marshdub]

Welcome to Denver ! My first year with my model 3. I plan to use chains on my vehicle. As mentioned above I-70 is typically kept up with well. Although at times when it’s near white out conditions, Loveland pass is the first to close. Eisenhower tunnel is the only route. At the bottom metering takes place that cause a hold up with traffic. You should be fine with your tires on your vehicle. I would just recommend keeping the chains incase. New law went into affect in Aug. Worst scenarios a Passenger Traction Law ( Code 16 ) goes into effect before a complete shut off. Passenger Vehicle Traction & Chain Laws —. I would have the chains just to be in compliance. It happens more than often in the slopes. Although it has been issued in very extreme cases in the city as well. Good Luck and happy skiing !

thank you! this is really great to know. I think I will be picking up the chains just to play it safe, I don't want to be having a hard time getting up to the mountains

 

[Rehabman]

Since there are probably a lot of people heading into their first winter with a Model 3 I thought I'd start a tip thread.

I have a LR RWD which I got July '18. I've driven it through one Minnesota winter. Here's a few things from my experience.

• Preheat. In cold weather it helps to turn on climate control while you are getting ready in the morning. This allows the car to use wall power rather than battery power to heat up the interior. It also warms the battery pack some.
• Reduced Regen. When the car has sat overnight in any temps below about 60F you'll notice some regen limitation. This is shown by the dots in the upper left on the power bar. The colder it is the more dots you will have and less regenerative braking. As the battery warms up you'll get back some or all of the dots. In sub zero weather you'll probably not be able to get all of them back. Be prepared as it is sometime a bit of a shock when you let up on the pedal and the car does not slow down as expected.
• Winter Tires. You'll find many threads on winter tires and which are good. In short, winter tires are no more or less necessary then on any other car. If you don't usually need winter tires then you may not on the Model 3. If you do get them, you'll have much better stopping and turning ability in cold/icy conditions. AWD will help you get going, but only the tires will help with stopping and turning. Last winter I used the stock 18" aero tires and had no more or less problems then previous cars. I can say the car is very smart about recovering from any slips. This year I plan on getting winter tires for the added safety.
• Chill mode and low regen. Tesla recommends you put the car in chill mode and low regen for slippery conditions. I did try that last year and quickly went back to normal settings. For one, in cold weather you already have reduced regen so setting it to low did nothing much. As for chill mode, I find I can easily modulate my acceleration for the conditions and don't really need the car restricting me. If you are having trouble, you may want to give those a try for yourself.
• Handling. The car is very good at handling wheel slip. It will accelerate without spinning the wheels. (there is a mode to allow slip if you need it to get unstuck) It is also quite good at recovering from back end slide outs. I found the RWD has a tendency to slide out a bit when starting an acceleration on ice. The first time it does it you think you are going to spin out, but it pulls itself back to straight almost before you can react. I have not driven the an AWD so I'll let someone else post how that handles.
• Reduced Range. Depending on the temperature you will have some range reduction. I would say most of the winter it was in the order of 20-30%. We had a couple days around -30F and range reduction was closer to 50% at that extreme cold. One of the biggest hits to your range is the cabin heat. If possible preheat while you are still plugged in. If you really need the range, use the seat heaters rather than the cabin heat. They require less power. The other factors are cold batteries and reduced regen. Some people have found that timing your nightly charging so that it finishes right before you leave in the morning will allow you to start with a warmer battery pack and give you more of your normal range back. People tend to dwell on reduced winter range as a drawback to BEV, but ICE cars also have reduced range in the winter.
• Defrost. The front window defrost has two settings. On the first press the icon turn blue and it directs cabin temperature air to the front window. On the second press the icon turns red and it directs full heat to the front window. I wish there was something in between. During snow storms the first setting is not enough to keep the window clean and the second setting is like having a hair dryer pointed at your face. Turning up the cabin temp does help the first setting.
• Instant heat. One of the very nice things about electric heat is that you don't have to wait for an engine to warm up before you get nice warm air coming from the vents.
• Sticking Charger Plug. In damp freezing conditions it is possible for the charging plug to get stuck and not release from the car. Tesla did put out an update last winter to help with that. If it does happen to you there is a release pull inside the trunk directly behind the charging port.
• Frozen door handles. I only had this happen once. I washed the car on a warmer day and did not dry the handles well enough. It took some determined pushing to get them to open. If you do have a situation where the handles are wet and you know you'll have freezing temp overnight, make sure you dry the handles off.

If you have any more tips, please add them to the thread.

thank you SO much for all this info. really helpful for new owners
s

 

[brew99]

Since there are probably a lot of people heading into their first winter with a Model 3 I thought I'd start a tip thread.

I have a LR RWD which I got July '18. I've driven it through one Minnesota winter. Here's a few things from my experience.

• Preheat. In cold weather it helps to turn on climate control while you are getting ready in the morning. This allows the car to use wall power rather than battery power to heat up the interior. It also warms the battery pack some.
• Reduced Regen. When the car has sat overnight in any temps below about 60F you'll notice some regen limitation. This is shown by the dots in the upper left on the power bar. The colder it is the more dots you will have and less regenerative braking. As the battery warms up you'll get back some or all of the dots. In sub zero weather you'll probably not be able to get all of them back. Be prepared as it is sometime a bit of a shock when you let up on the pedal and the car does not slow down as expected.

Excellent info, thanks!!!

 

[newsletter]

Is it recommended to lift up the wiper blades during possible freezing rain to prevent it from getting stuck to the windshield? Or alternatively cover them in plastic bags?

Anyone have recommendations on snowbrushes that won't scratch the paint?

 

[eddy0090]

Having one northeast winter under my belt, a few things Iearned

• Range loss is a real, be sure to factor it in on longer trips 20%-30% for sure.
• Doors and handles can and will freeze shut after rain/moisture and freeze. I keep a slim pry tool in trunk that I use around window to break ice. I damaged my trim before I realized this was an issue.
• I tried using silicon lubricant on seals, may have helped a bit.
• As others have said, preheating while plugged in definitely helps mitigate some range loss.
• Handles very nicely in snow for rearwheel drive.

 

[clockwrkz]

Is it recommended to lift up the wiper blades during possible freezing rain to prevent it from getting stuck to the windshield? Or alternatively cover them in plastic bags?

Anyone have recommendations on snowbrushes that won't scratch the paint?

Wipers don't lift up like you normally can on (they only lift off the windshield a few inches but won't lock up in place). I'd just run the front the defrost long enough before getting in to melt any ice.

Check out "SnoBrum"... that's what was recommended to me to avoid scratches. The next level up would be wrapping the SnoBrum in a microfiber cloth if you really wanted to be careful.

 

[nicholb]

Just found this winter driving article on Tesla's support site.

Winter Driving Tips

 

[MidwestM3P]

For those with the Performance model, keep in mind that Michelin does not recommend driving on the Pilot Sport 4S's in weather conditions under 20 degrees F.

Pilot® Sport 4 S

https://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp?tireMake=Michelin&tireModel=Pilot+Sport+4S

Note: Tires exposed to temperatures of 20 degrees F (-7 degrees C) or lower must be permitted to gradually return to temperatures of at least 40 degrees F (5 degrees C) for at least 24 hours before they are flexed in any manner, such as by adjusting inflation pressures, mounting them on wheels or using them to support, roll or drive a vehicle.

Flexing of the specialized rubber compounds used in Max Performance Summer tires during cold-weather use can result in irreversible compound cracking. Compound cracking is not a warrantable condition because it occurs as the result of improper use or storage, tires exhibiting compound cracking must be replaced.


I highly recommend having a separate set of either dedicated winter tires or all-season tires on hand to switch to in fall/winter if you have the Pilot Sport 4S's. Not only to avoid exposing the tires to low temperatures, but I can tell you from experience they do not have much grip at all when they are cold or in frost/ice conditions. These are truly tires that are intended for summer use only.

 

[SageBrush]

Wipers don't lift up like you normally can

I'm not positive but the wiper blade replacement setting may do what you are after.

 

[clockwrkz]

I'm not positive but the wiper blade replacement setting may do what you are after.

Putting the wipers in service mode just moves them up the windshield and disengages the motor. You can’t pull them away from the glass and have them stay off the glass.

 

[Livex]

Wipers don't lift up like you normally can on (they only lift off the windshield a few inches but won't lock up in place). I'd just run the front the defrost long enough before getting in to melt any ice.

Check out "SnoBrum"... that's what was recommended to me to avoid scratches. The next level up would be wrapping the SnoBrum in a microfiber cloth if you really wanted to be careful.

1+ for the Snowbrum makes cleaning snow off a breeze !

 

[android04]

It's good to carry a HotHands hand warmer in the car. If you get moisture freeze in the charge port lock pin (the one that locks in the charging handle when it's charging), your charging speed will be reduced by a lot. If this happens, activate the hand warmer and jam it into the charge port and close the door. This will warm up the moisture and allow the lock pin to work so you can charge faster.

 

[Lobstahz]

Tesla made some nice changes for the first winter the Model 3 went through, I'm hoping they'll be doing the same for the second. So with the second winter for many Model 3 owners fast approaching I compiled a few things from last season that I think would be very beneficial, and seemingly quick/easy, updates to make to the Model 3 even better this winter. I attempted to email this to "[email protected]" but was informed by the bounce-back that they no longer monitor that email address. Does anyone know the new email address for generic support to use for this?

Winter Improvements
* Winter Wiper Mode - Replicate dedicated wiper defrost by having the wipers rest right where the internal defroster hits the windshield, very similar to the existing wiper maintenance mode. For use when parked, or when driving.

** When parked in snow, freezing rain, etc and preheated the cabin heat in defroster mode will melt the snow and ice on the wiper blades making it easier clean off/scrape your car before driving.
** When driving the heat will again help melt the ice and snow. The angle of the blades and the wind from driving will help to clear the blades of snow and slush. As they currently operate the wipers are tucked away when not in use or actively wiping the windshield which is fine for dry and rain, but sub-optimal for winter driving. I had issue last winter my wipers freezing up, which looks like it could be improved via a software update.
​

* Winter Single Pedal Driving - Utilize battery warming, like what is done to precondition for super charging, to make a more consistent driving experience (ie single pedal driving) between the warmer seasons and winter. Expend some extra battery energy, and effectively range, to be able to have a more consistent driving experience. Last winter it was always a bit different everyday I'd drive which was annoying if not a bit alarming at times when you lift off expecting regen braking but instead you get zero regen and keep coasting along at the same rate of speed towards something.

* "Snow Mode" Traction Control Setting - More conservative traction control to keep the back from stepping out. Also is effectively a shortcut to turn on chill mode and low regen, along with the super nanny-ish traction control setting. This setting is targeted to make driving in slippery conditions easier and less stressful.

* Enable side mirror defroster separate from the rear window defroster. Self explanatory, sometimes you need one without the other.


"Snow Mode" Disclaimer - Before people tell me to learn to drive or get better tires, I grew up driving in Maine, have done my fair share of track events and run Blizzaks all winter. So please spare us all those comments and remember it's an _option_ don't use it if you don't want it.

 

[jedi2b]

all good ideas.

this would be my first Tesla-equipped-winter, so i'm not sure I understand the idea behind "turn on chill mode and low regen, along with the super nanny-ish traction control setting." can you please elaborate?

how about using the rain detector to detect that the car is covered in snow, ice or similar? An app notification would be nice. It would be cool to know this in advance if the car is not visible, so I can precondition well in advance to melt the snow.

 

[Runt8]

all good ideas.

this would be my first Tesla-equipped-winter, so i'm not sure I understand the idea behind "turn on chill mode and low regen, along with the super nanny-ish traction control setting." can you please elaborate?

The instant torque makes it very easy to break the wheels loose (at least until the traction control kicks in) and full regen can cause slipping as it acts like you’ve stomped on the brakes. A lot of people prefer chill mode and low regen to help mitigate these issues in snow and ice, although you can get the same effect by careful application of the accelerator.