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Max Battery Power Missing - Firmware 2019.8.3

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I wasn’t going to update until it was fixed, but my GPS stopped working entirely and I knew the first thing the SC would do is blame it on not updating to the newest version. Luckily (unluckily?) that fixed my GPS issue.

Just prior to updating I observed that my car P85D converted to P90D only pulls 1500 amps and maxes out at 479kw if max battery isn’t enabled, otherwise I see about 1600amps and just north of 500kw. I don’t think I’m going to be able to get to 100% charge before I leave, but I’m going to do some logs on my way to work and see what sort of power difference or amperage difference I may be seeing with the new L+ button.
 
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Yeah Tesla should have done that long ago, given you break CV joints if you launch in high. Can't believe that change took 4+ years.

Not too mention that the P90DL tesla had a screen come up that would tell that is what good to put it in max battery to condition the battery. Fast forward to the P100DL in ludicrous plus saying that it would damage the battery etc in that same screen that would come up after selecting it. So they had no real argument against P90DL owners since it never said it was harmful to the drive unit or battery.
 
Not too mention that the P90DL tesla had a screen come up that would tell that is what good to put it in max battery to condition the battery. Fast forward to the P100DL in ludicrous plus saying that it would damage the battery etc in that same screen that would come up after selecting it. So they had no real argument against P90DL owners since it never said it was harmful to the drive unit or battery.
The P100DL is putting out significantly more power when its easter egg mode is enabled, which is why that warning is offered. The 85/90 car packs are not capable of putting out the power levels where Tesla deems it risky to the battery/drivetrain.
 
These are the vehicles on TeslaFi that have received 2019.16.1.1

Screenshot_20190515-160612.png
 
We should start something like a wiki post where we have multiple volunteers to take the firmware and the alert the rest of us that they are no good. Just a single place, so that you don't need to know the nature of the problem to google it i.e. max battery power missing, power severely limited, etc.
 
I wasn’t going to update until it was fixed, but my GPS stopped working entirely and I knew the first thing the SC would do is blame it on not updating to the newest version. Luckily (unluckily?) that fixed my GPS issue.

Just prior to updating I observed that my car P85D converted to P90D only pulls 1500 amps and maxes out at 479kw if max battery isn’t enabled, otherwise I see about 1600amps and just north of 500kw. I don’t think I’m going to be able to get to 100% charge before I leave, but I’m going to do some logs on my way to work and see what sort of power difference or amperage difference I may be seeing with the new L+ button.

PowerTools was only working intermittently. I did confirm between L and L+ my power output and amperage didn’t change. The max amps I saw were 1500(1524) and my max power was 476kw. Which is right in line with my previous output with an optimal temperature battery with max battery turned off. It does seem that my pack is limited to the 1500amps and not the full 1600amps after this update.
 
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Or more like 2 tenths a second. I think it has a harder time being accurate with 0-60mph times simply because the car is moving so fast and it effects the dragy and getting a good signal. There have been several times my car ran high kw and did terrible times due to bad signal reception I assume

Dragy is pretty accurate. There is a comparison to 1/4 times somewhere and it was more accurate than Vbox.

Not much to compare it to for 0-60 except vbox though.

Whatever its accuracy, it is good for comparison with itself before and after various changes.

I haven't noticed occasional inconsistency but I always make sure the signal is locked on and not weak.
 
Sorry to threadjack, but what is the best tool to measure battery output in amps? I'm an Android user but have access to an Apple device if I have to. Does PowerTools "calculate" it or is it actually measured?
TM-Spy is what I use for amps, PowerTools doesn’t show it. TM-Spy exists for Android as well, but it requires a logging cable.

I think people prefer scan my Tesla for Android, but it doesn’t exist for iOS so I’m not familiar with it.
 
its not fixed till we confirm its fixed service center reps don't know jack ... every update " might" fix it they do not know because the updates don't really say what changed.... as I said previously id bet it will be a while till this gets fixed. PLUS we haven't had anyone really come at tesla with data so they might add the button but not properly fix it...

Happy to be proven wrong.... but I've gone through this multiple times now with Tesla and buggy updates that break various parts of the car.

For example the update after mcu2 came out, it broke all the HIFI audio in all MCU 1 Cars making all bass go away and the audio sound crap like an am radio.... Every update after that was supposedly going to fix it according to the service center ... took a few months to get it resolved, hell at first tesla said there was no problem and tried to book me a service center visit to replace my speakers :rolleyes:
 
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its not fixed till we confirm its fixed service center reps don't know jack ... every update " might" fix it they do not know because the updates don't really say what changed.... as I said previously id bet it will be a while till this gets fixed. PLUS we haven't had anyone really come at tesla with data so they might add the button but not properly fix it

I believe a P85 owner stated the update fixed the max battery / launch control issue. I’m hopeful it does the same for the P90’s