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MCU fails for the second time

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Less miles and low power mode definitely matter. Less uptime MCU has is better. It is not car age rather uptime.

Seems like we discovered new design flaw of earlier revisions of MCU. They run significantly hotter - about 20C hotter than late models. Both CPU and surrounding board get hot so flash memory operates in extreme conditions and hence degrades faster.
 
If someone makes a mcu failure poll, I will respond.

Model S 85 2013, almost 114k miles, MCU needs replacing due internal short according to Tesla.

Had my Model S since 03/2013, drove it exclusively until I bought an X in 12/2016 and let my brother inlaw and spouse drive the S.

The X car window got broken into 10/16/17, so started driving the S again.

On 10/17/17, I decided to read the Manual to look at what Passive Entry was. Touched the Manual and the touchscreen went blank and restarted itself. I tried about 2 times and both times screen just restarted. Decided to leave alone and try the next day.

10/18/17, I decided to search something on the browser. Nothing was working, no indication of response on the browser. Tried the Manual again and it still wasn't working and decided to do a scroll reset. After the scroll reset, AC turned back on, but the touchscreen never came on.

Eventually called Tesla and they couldn't help me with anything except to take the car in the next day.

AC stayed on at least 10.5 hours, and had turned off sometime in the middle of the night. Not sure if it was because the car had finished charging, or maybe some overheat protection turned it off.

10/19/17
Because my car was out of warranty, I specifically asked them how much it would cost worst case scenario. Person did a little searching on the computer and was quoted $200 deductible, otherwise $500. In hindsight, I should have asked them why I only needed to pay the deductible, my car was over 100k miles already. I figured $500 sounds fine even if out of warranty.


10/20/17 Friday at 8:34 am, I get a message:
Hi A, we diagnosed the problem with your Model S and are working on an estimate to repair it. The cars warranty expired at 100,000 miles. There is no warranty left on the car except for the drive unit and battery pack. We will be in touch later today. Hit reply or call (916) 652-7740
At 10:06 am, I texted requesting what the diagnosis was.
I never received an update.

On 10/25 around 2pm, I asked them for a status update because I could see that my car was sitting here and not charging. The car had around 70 miles.
Around 2:30, I receive a message that "Parts are on order. We will notify you when they come in. Thank you."
5 minutes later I responded, "What's the estimate to repair it, and what parts are on order?"
Then around 6pm I get, "Hi A, this is B with Tesla service Rocklin, we diagnosed the problem with your Model S and we just sent you an email with the estimate cost on repairs. Please review email and let us know if you have any questions. Thank you!"

I read the email and was pretty much in shock at the price I was quoted. I've just never had to pay that much of an amount on a car at one time. It was going to cost $2588 for the MCU. Labor was $175 plus tax. The email stated they would pay for labor if I paid for the part. Maybe it was a consolation because my warranty had expired.

10/26/17 called to talk to them.
10/27/17 emailed them to go ahead and fix the mcu.
10/31, get a text that my car is ready to be picked up.

I was just mainly upset that it cost so much just for AC function. If only I hadn't reset the car, the car likely would have continued operating as is. I just wouldn't have access to Manual and the web browser. I really believe the software updates messed up my car. I had a main charging unit(?) that needed replacement right after a software update. Car charged fine, but updated the car in the morning, and by night time during its scheduled charge time, my phone received so many messages of charging error that my phone battery was drained in the middle of the night. Thankfully I had enough charge to reach the service center. It was under warranty, so thankfully did not have to pay out of pocket.

Just annoying when things break and I suspect it's due to the software updates, but Tesla says they cannot confirm it, or does not want to disclose it. Maybe the mcu really did break not due to software upgrade, but 4 years old only and have to spend so much at one time....

I still choose EV over ICE cars though....:).
And still waiting for Tesla to have window in stock to fix the X window.
 
I feel bad saying this, cause you typed up a *sugar* load, but there's too much explaining to do and some hunches on why your MCU went bad.

If you hadn't reset the car, it woulda reset itself over night at some point. (just to dispel that reareview mirror feeling)

If you can, and you'll have to be pretty stern with them to get a reply of this manner, ask them specifically what went wrong with the MCU. Ask them to be technically specific, tell you exactly which part of the board went bad. Prompt them with things like "onboard memory", or "Tegra failure", or "corrupt flash". They looked at that MCU and had to determine the fault before they could replace, there's no way they just said "aw, $hit's bad, lets swap in a new one".

We as owners can't let Tesla continue to be vague with such costly repairs. If you're able to get a more specific answer from them, let us know and we can guide you further in the discussion... if you even want to have it. In my personal opinion, this will happen again and you'll be out another 2.5K in a few years...
 
Less miles and low power mode definitely matter. Less uptime MCU has is better. It is not car age rather uptime.

Seems like we discovered new design flaw of earlier revisions of MCU. They run significantly hotter - about 20C hotter than late models. Both CPU and surrounding board get hot so flash memory operates in extreme conditions and hence degrades faster.

The CID doesn't sleep even with energy saving mode.
 
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I feel bad saying this, cause you typed up a *sugar* load, but there's too much explaining to do and some hunches on why your MCU went bad.

If you hadn't reset the car, it woulda reset itself over night at some point. (just to dispel that reareview mirror feeling)

If you can, and you'll have to be pretty stern with them to get a reply of this manner, ask them specifically what went wrong with the MCU. Ask them to be technically specific, tell you exactly which part of the board went bad. Prompt them with things like "onboard memory", or "Tegra failure", or "corrupt flash". They looked at that MCU and had to determine the fault before they could replace, there's no way they just said "aw, $hit's bad, lets swap in a new one".

We as owners can't let Tesla continue to be vague with such costly repairs. If you're able to get a more specific answer from them, let us know and we can guide you further in the discussion... if you even want to have it. In my personal opinion, this will happen again and you'll be out another 2.5K in a few years...


Thanks for reading through. I think maybe the mcu would have failed eventually, but without doing the school reset, i probably could have kep driving the car a little longer. Prior to the scroll reset, only the Manual and Browser weren't working. Also, after getting the X, I hadn't been driving the S and prior to this, the S had battery contacts (or connectors) replaced a month or two before.
It's just been a busy October in regards to the X and S.

They should be able to diagnose what specific part of the mcu shorted?
This was what was in the paperwork.:
"inspected the vehicle and found the center display unit (MCU) has an internal short, and it will need to be replaced."
 
The CID doesn't sleep even with energy saving mode.
Actually I am not 100% sure of that. It's true when you have "always connected" checked, but if not it might be sleeping.

"inspected the vehicle and found the center display unit (MCU) has an internal short, and it will need to be replaced."
Right, internal short that only manifested itself after reboot...
 
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Thanks for reading through. I think maybe the mcu would have failed eventually, but without doing the school reset, i probably could have kep driving the car a little longer. Prior to the scroll reset, only the Manual and Browser weren't working. Also, after getting the X, I hadn't been driving the S and prior to this, the S had battery contacts (or connectors) replaced a month or two before.
It's just been a busy October in regards to the X and S.

They should be able to diagnose what specific part of the mcu shorted?
This was what was in the paperwork.:
"inspected the vehicle and found the center display unit (MCU) has an internal short, and it will need to be replaced."

I mean... that could mean ANYTHING to be honest. I won't be biased, but rather would await their response if you decide to pursue. I have a hunch but I don't want to pollute the issue.
 
Te
Did you ask to keep your old MCU? (You should be able to sell parts of it to recover a portion of the expense.)[/QUOTEOn the phone they said I could if I wanted it
Did you ask to keep your old MCU? (You should be able to sell parts of it to recover a portion of the expense.)
I asked if I could over the phone and they said that if there is no core fee, then yes I could keep.
 
My MCU keeps freezing and restarting every few days on its own. Do you think that is a sign of it going out? Tesla service claims that is normal and they can't do anything until they are able to replicate it at the center.
I would start dating the contacts with Tesla in case the screen goes bad after the warranty is over. They may do a courtesy replacement if your mileage is just a little over 100k. I've had issues a while back that said to contact Service because there was an issue with the screen. It went away every time I did a reset. After getting the X, I hadn't been driving or paying attention to issues the S has/had. Just focusing on the X now. Mostly minor issues.
 
I would start dating the contacts with Tesla in case the screen goes bad after the warranty is over. They may do a courtesy replacement if your mileage is just a little over 100k. I've had issues a while back that said to contact Service because there was an issue with the screen. It went away every time I did a reset. After getting the X, I hadn't been driving or paying attention to issues the S has/had. Just focusing on the X now. Mostly minor issues.

I am well under 40k more miles left on the warranty so should be fine. Just disappointing that they can't look up logs.
 
I'm curious what your hunch is:).

My hunch is, much like mine recently, your Tegra went bad, specifically the eMMC. nVidia/Tesla's design was to use embedded memory, like a cellphone. When it goes bad you're screwed, save for a few people on the forum who can do the repair. Symptoms are frequent reboots, and then looping reboots where the screen is black, then eventually completely off/wont start.
 
Actually I am not 100% sure of that. It's true when you have "always connected" checked, but if not it might be sleeping.


Right, internal short that only manifested itself after reboot...

CID consists of few separate processing units. Main computer which is responsible for graphics and many other things callled Tegra. This computer definitely sleeps. Everybody who has CID on a bench knows that. Gateway subunit is not sleeping. It is responsible for waking everything up if signal comes in. This unit has two flash storages and logs communication lines (can & eth) extensively. Log files stored on SD card that could be removed and replaced. We didn't hear about wearing and failing SD yet though. So far we've seen multiple cases of failing Tegra, particularly eMMC flash memory on it. It is main data storage for Tegra, soldered to the PCB.
I confirm what @verygreen says -"always connected" setting is evil since it makes Tegra to be always awake which increases vampire drain and much more increased wear of flash memory, accelerates failure. If you have classic MS - beware of using this setting.
 
Interesting stuff to read.
I have my S on Always Connected....
I tried Always Connected and Energy Saving before, but when I want to drive, I want to drive. When I wanted the AC turned on through the App, there was connection and waking issues, so just mainly kept car on Always and no Saving.
 
Interesting stuff to read.
I have my S on Always Connected....
I tried Always Connected and Energy Saving before, but when I want to drive, I want to drive. When I wanted the AC turned on through the App, there was connection and waking issues, so just mainly kept car on Always and no Saving.

At the cost of a lost MCU out of warranty, I'd take the extra 10 seconds to "wake" if it was me (well it is, and thats what I do haha)