MCU1 black after reboot, is it bricked?

[Naekuh]

Listen to TonyT and rooter.
As others said once that pack drains, you can add another list of nightmares on your list.
Its best at Tesla if it has to drain and you have no recourse.

 

[Akikiki]

Not likely emmc failure, since you can still access via app. You can try pulling the fuse or disconnect the 12V if your handy. You should try to drive in and see if they can service sooner.

Maps download to a separate card.

Maybe ask if service can re-push update to your car, and see if you can install it via app.

Likely to be different issue, since car cant charge, and heat is stuck on. However I have had a 2017 with failed emmc, so it's not totally ruled out.

TonyT is "the man". If he says not, its 99.44% not.

 

[Snowstorm]

He's connecting to the Mothership with the app (Tesla servers), but the car is not answering up.

The CID in the MCU has fallen and can't get up.

• First thing I'd try is a hard reset. (Hold brake and two-finger salute)
  
• If that doesn't do it then pull the MCU fuse for 30 seconds.
  
• If that doesn't do it disconnect the positive from the battery and the emerg responders' cut-loop for 30 seconds.

If that doesn't do it, shoot yourself in the head, er, resolve to fix the eMMC using either my methods for a permanent solution, or hire ce2078 or TonyT (who uses my solution). Or pay Tesla to replace the MCU with a like unit and expect this problem to recur.

But whatever you do, do NOT allow that pack to drain, especially in freezing weather. While the MCU is getting fixed disconnect the positive from the 12v battery and the emerg responders' cut-loop. Do both.

Congrats, you might be the first 100D to fail like this.

Thanks, going to try to pull fuse and see what happens. This didn’t respond to 2 button reset. Power drain is not an immediate concern right now as it is plugged in to AC and drawing power there (but not charging). Is there a high risk that pulling the fuse will make the car not drivable? I don’t want to get it in a state that can’t go to the SC under its own power.

 

[dekuramen]

I was having same issue except I can actually charge my car @ home. I can connect via app but no control at all.

I pulled the 'touchscreen' 20A fuse for 30 seconds and the heat finally turned off. (was stuck at 27C since the reboot and black screen). I then pulled the HV loop for a few minutes and the MCU still remained blank. My guess is corrupted firmware.. Will call SC at 8AM and see what they say. I can also try disconnecting 12V tomorrow.

There is no way I am paying thousands for the same MCU1 and eMMC chip that will fail eventually. I would rather get a 12V car heater/cooler to point at my windshield and send my eMMC to be copied to a new aftermarket chip. (Brrrr Canadian winters tho) Tesla should disable eMMC logging, replace everyone's chip with more flash storage/writes and offer discounted MCU2 retrofits. I am trying to remain calm but this *sugar* is getting ridiculous. Lots of people are having their cars brick, go limp mode or render their HVAC and basic controls useless. We need an immediate temporary fix such as local control for HVAC and basic car functions via Tesla app. (if possible)

Attachment is a picture of my car feeding the HVAC with grid power while the MCU is blank, and charge limit reached.

SO how it probably happened: I let my car deep sleep for a week during a snow storm and the first thing I did yesterday was clear my Trip A. I noticed lag and tried a touchscreen reboot.. and she never booted up... Welp I hope we get some answers and real solutions soon. If I had PIN-to-drive enabled then I would be seriously SOL.

 

[Snowstorm]

tesla phone support tells me to call service Center, but Tesla service Center won’t pick up the phone.

 

[KyleDay]

Dude. Pull the damn power and wait 5 minutes. Quit messing with the service center - it’s a waste of time at this point.

 

[SemiS3XYR]

I had this problem a couple months ago. Hvac on and all. And it held a charge while pulgged in at home. I was fortunate to have enough juice to get to SC and back if they turned me away and i have extended warranty. They treated my situation as an emergency and got my car fixed in a one week. When i got there they sent a tech to stop the hvac asap, pull 12v or fuse or however. I dont know.

If your car is still under warranty go to SC. Or if SC is close go take another car or uber there and speak to someone.

I’d rather put the risk on T if your car is still under warranty. If your car is not under warranty then pull 12v connect and/or fuse as others have suggested. Hopefully someone can advise how. @TonyT ??? He gave me some advice when i had my issue.

Yes this is a garbage situation but if i was out if warranty and my car emmc is a ticking time bomb i would look at upgrade it with some ppl that offer it on this forum. I love my T’s but I’m done and seeking better service. Hopefully my next car is not T.

 

[TonyT]

TonyT is "the man". If he says not, its 99.44% not.

It's hard to say doing a limited remote diagnosis. However corrupted eMMC's can be a can of worms. But the main reason I don't think it's totally corrupted is because there is still app access, which means the mcu is pretty booted up.

However OP mentioned not all functions work... so could be one of those rare instances some of the different files to manage some services are corrupted. I've just not seen one fail this way. (yet...)

But for sure, don't waste your time with robo answer... if your not far from SC, drive over, hopefully they take your car, give you a loaner, even if they cant fix right away.

And pull the fuse if you can, I believe 17 fuse is in the cabin, so it might be a pain to get into.. I have not worked on the newest cars much yet.... Battery cable should be easy to get to under frunk, newer cars had 12V moved to easily serviceable location.Pull it for a couple minutes. Also roll down your windows before you pull the fuse or battery negative cable, so you don't get locked out of your car, and damage any windows (in the event you have to open door without power.)

 

[TonyT]

You should try to move the car there - if they will accept it. Even if its going to be week+ before they can work on it. One never knows, they might have a cancellation and with it already there - work on it early.

Remember, its not going to charge. You don't want to be sitting in it with 20 miles or range at home on SC service day. If its at their SC parking lot, it becomes their responsibility to insure it does not brick.

No. You will get the same MCU that you have. Yes, we all hope like you, that we don't pay $2,000 and not get MCU2. We are hopeful that it will start soon. The rough estimate is there's 5,000+ across country that want to pay the estimated (at least) $2,000 to move up from MCU1 to MCU2. Someone posted story on Teslarati.com that he did it himself.

MCU2 free upgrade is not likely. It also involves a new IC and radio, and possibly other things. It can be done by SC, but I expect it will not be cheap. However Elon has shocked me before...

 

[TrevTremaine]

I've had the same "Unable to charge". Depending upon which version of software, there's a known bug that Tesla is looking at and was told this by my service rep. I'm currently on 2019.40.2.1. Scheduled charging is affected on mine, but I also get this message almost every single time I go to charge and occasionally the car shuts down. I've disabled Scheduled charging for now. Reboots are "somewhat" effective.

 

[EV-Fixme]

@Snowstorm

Thanks, going to try to pull fuse and see what happens. This didn’t respond to 2 button reset. Power drain is not an immediate concern right now as it is plugged in to AC and drawing power there (but not charging). Is there a high risk that pulling the fuse will make the car not drivable? I don’t want to get it in a state that can’t go to the SC under its own power.

There is not a high risk. but note my post.

And pull the fuse if you can, I believe 17 fuse is in the cabin, so it might be a pain to get into.. I have not worked on the newest cars much yet.... Battery cable should be easy to get to under frunk, newer cars had 12V moved to easily serviceable location.Pull it for a couple minutes. Also roll down your windows before you pull the fuse or battery negative cable, so you don't get locked out of your car, and damage any windows (in the event you have to open door without power.)

 

[rooter]

Welll, rewarding to post here, as always...

 

[Naekuh]

Also roll down your windows before you pull the fuse or battery negative cable, so you don't get locked out of your car,

+1 this..

if you watch richrebuilds, you'll see he made this error a few times, and had to jimmy the door open.

 

[David29]

One other suggestion, based upon my own roughly similar but not identical experience.
IF you have any USB sticks plugged into the USB ports, remove them. I had one for music and it was corrupted, and that caused a software update to stall, which caused my center screen to go black, etc.
Might help....

 

[Snowstorm]

No, I don't have a USB stick.

I drive it to the SC today and they agreed to look at it on Wednesday morning and see what's up.
Tesla should really do something proactive about these MCU1, they are a critical component of the car and shouldn't really just fail in 2.5 years. The laptop I am typing this on lasted longer than that and is still kicking. I asked whether I can upgrade to a MCU 2 and they said flat out no.

 

[TonyT]

No, I don't have a USB stick.

I drive it to the SC today and they agreed to look at it on Wednesday morning and see what's up.
Tesla should really do something proactive about these MCU1, they are a critical component of the car and shouldn't really just fail in 2.5 years. The laptop I am typing this on lasted longer than that and is still kicking. I asked whether I can upgrade to a MCU 2 and they said flat out no.

I did notice later in another post you said your out of warranty, so my friend in CA can help you.

 

[sorka]

What a let down. Expected by the time I got through the thread the OP would have disconnected the 12v battery at least once!!

 

[TonyT]

I think OP did do it and mentioned in one of the big eMMC threads and got the heat to turn off.

 

[aaron0k]

Has anyone seen this before? Is my flash chip dead and needs an MCU1 replacement? It feels really bad to pay thousands to replace it with an outdated computer which will likely fail again in 2 years...

If your eMMC is dying, the SC will probably tell you to do a full MCU replacement. However you can also request that they first try forcing an update/toolbox which has a good chance of buying you some time. I've had this done ($200 diag fee) which bought me some time to pull out my Tegra and have my eMMC replaced (helpful members here on TMC = hundreds vs. Tesla thousands.).

I definitely recommend not giving Telsa more of your money to fix something THEY destroyed.

 

[EV-Fixme]

For sure, however if SC does tell you if it needs replacement, you can skip the forced redeployment from them, and have the chip removed asap to ensure all the right files can be recovered. Also the upgrade is going to last much longer, so the value is really much higher than initially perceived.