Resurrecting my thread...
I'm sure the "just ignore the gaps" folks will come back and talk about how I suck. But for those who is actually interested in marveling at the tech alongside also being really happy with the build... here's what I did regarding the gap and flushness for the vehicle that was just dropped off in my driveway.
I used to work in automotive in Detroit (like in HQ, not at a plant). I know they all now use cutting edge laser tools today.
GapGun, leading hand-held laser measurement tool for quality control. Measure gap and flush, radius, edge break, countersink, scratch + more.
www.third.com
While a crooked painting in your office would certainly catch your notice, a car door askew by less than a millimeter probably wouldn’t. And yet for
www.visionspectra-digital.com
Unfortunately a hand held gapgun that can measure in 3D space is like... super expensive. However, Just a few decades ago, it was mostly eyeballs and cheap feeler gages. I hit up one of my old friends who sent me one of the old-school tools they used in the 90s to do batch tests on gaps and flushness. It's a "No Mar flushness and gap gage" that kind of looks like the following. I have no clue how a normal person is supposed to get this, but some of the old timers had these in their desks I guess. You can see how this tool works... and I'm 99% sure that Munro guy on Youtube uses this since he's old-school from Ford.
The symmetrical tapered end measures distance as you push it into a gap. The side that looks like a deck of mis-aligned playing cards measures flushness across two planes that are near each other. Yes, this tool is crude, and doesn't take into account curvature well. But you know what; it's the best I can get.
View attachment 696762
On the exterior:
I measured every stupid-gap around my car. It turns out, just like many have expressed on TMC ... my P3 was assembled pretty well. The exterior gaps and flushness were really good on my Model 3. There was only 1 gap that I found that 5.0 mm... the rest of the gaps were 3mm to 4mm. Cutlines for parts that don't move (eg fascias) were all less than 1mm. This all means the car's gaps and cutlines are superb.
The only somewhat exterior problem area was the headlight assembly. The Model 3 has a crazy swooping headlight assembly that I wager is really tough to align properly. On my car the headlights are off-flush by like 2mm. But I think trying to get this right would need a much slower line speed and a ton of trial and error since it doesn't appear there's any way a worker (or robot) could use spacers to get this right as a car flies down the line. Probably not worth submitting as an issue.
Aside from the headlights, the exterior flushness was also very good... each door was 0.5mm flush along the beltline, and brake lights and door handles were uniform throughout. Overall this car has some superb exterior fit and finish.
On the interior:
The cross-car gap between the IP and the front driver door and front passenger door is usually the main thing to check in any car. This P3 is off 3mm... with the driver side gap being around 5mm while the passenger side is 2mm. This is probably "within spec" for Tesla, but would be off spec for pretty much any other major automaker producing cars today. It's definitely not fixable without a major amount of work, and I'm not going to press Tesla for anything.
All I can say is... the cars are supposed to be built well. If yours isn't, I think it's worthwhile to make sure things that are way off spec are fixed. Personally, if I had a gap that was way off (or causing two moving parts to "kiss"), I'd ask Tesla to fix it. Luckily I didn't have that problem for gaps.
But, what I am going to submit is a ticket to them for marring in the paint that I couldn't remove with a claybar... I want to see if they'll take a shot at it before I go for it with a polisher. And the interior is so full of black fingerprints and smudges. Like wtf... Elon needs to let these folks get new gloves every once in a while...