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Where do you get this info?The battery range is being limited by software, mine included. That's why we're all getting around 250 miles at 100% charge.
Tesla added the software limitation to ensure battery longevity, so that they don't have to replace too many batteries under warranty.
Why the MR and not the others?The battery range is being limited by software, mine included. That's why we're all getting around 250 miles at 100% charge.
Tesla added the software limitation to ensure battery longevity, so that they don't have to replace too many batteries under warranty.
The LR, AWD, P models are seeing much less degradation - only ~10 miles total according to this survey:
Battery degradation on Model 3 - only with long range battery pack
I would assume the SR+ degradation would also be small, since the battery pack was specifically designed for that car.
At the end of the day, we are getting nearly the same range as a SR+, which itself has 250 miles range brand new.
If the midrange battery degradation gets worse, or the SW limitation needs to increase, then our car's range may even fall below that of the SR+ !
I have a late 2018 model 3 mid range with 22,482 miles on it. I unplugged it today to leave for work and I flipped the display to show miles and not range and i saw well under 220 , i believe it was 212. I charge it to 90% every night. I moved it back to energy on the display. I am going to track it over the new week or so to get the SOC on my battery after charging to 90%. I had a ticket with Tesla opened a few months ago on the battery and tesla support recommend i take the charge down to 10% and back to full over 4-5 days. I have to say looking at 212-214 @ 90% today is a far cry away from the 264 i originally purchased. Doug
90% mostly, 80% sometimes. Sitting at 238/264 now after 22k mileswhat do you have your charge level set to?
Your charging habits are most likely contributing to cell imbalance since you rarely ever charge to 90%. It has been stated many times on this forum that the BMS doesn’t balance cells until you are at 90% or above. Now that the weather is warmer, set your charging level to 90% and leave it that way for a month or two to allow the BMS to do its job. You may see a lot of this range loss come back.I have Mod 3 Mid Range (December 2018) with 20K mile as of today. My range dropped dramatically within two months from 264 to 236 now. Tesla keeps telling me I'm within the range but loosing 11% in the first year is a lot in my opinion. I charge daily at work with L2 charger to 81% and never go below 30% of charge. I charged to 100% maybe 4 to 5 times for the entire year and occasionally used Superchargers. I don't speed or accelerate. Drive normally. (for those who want to see how much you will get without actually charging to 100% use your phone up and slide the battery limit to 100%. the maximum charge will show on the left side of the battery display)
My wife's 2015 Models S 85D still shows 262 miles when fully charged. She always use the Supercharges.
I'm suspecting that Tesla by eliminating Mid Range model used their software to keep only Standard and Long Range, unfortunate, downgrading Mid Range customers. Pretty similar thing happened with my Autopilot which I added for $2000 two months after I purchased my vehicle. The invoice for the Autopilot upgrade used to show in my account. Now it is gone and Autopilot appears as a standard option.
Perhaps I'm incorrect but can someone give me a better explanation?
I solved this problem with my Nov-18 build Mid-range by never worrying about how many miles the car estimates and leaving the the battery display in percentage.
Your charging habits are most likely contributing to cell imbalance since you rarely ever charge to 90%. It has been stated many times on this forum that the BMS doesn’t balance cells until you are at 90% or above. Now that the weather is warmer, set your charging level to 90% and leave it that way for a month or two to allow the BMS to do its job. You may see a lot of this range loss come back.
No problem. It's also recommended to let the battery get down to about 20% before charging, for balancing purposes. A lot of charging in the middle percentages makes it hard for the BMS to determine actual state of charge (SOC). Its theorized that Tesla is being conservative when there is uncertainty in BMS SOC values causing the display to show lower max range than it really is. This way it lessens the risk of having a shutdown prior to hitting "0" miles on the display. The car shuts down when the cell module with the lowest voltage hits the minimum allowed voltage. If you have a large imbalance, then you are artificially reducing your range because some cells/modules never get charged to their full potential since charging stops when any module hits 4.2 volts, regardless of the state of the other modules. This is why balancing is important.Thank you for the info. I will definitely do that and post my results.
The charge you see when you end up charging the car or in the app slider is NOT lifetime nor anything else consumptionwise dependent. It is a flat constant that Tesla uses depending on your model and battery pack that only changes if Tesla changes it via Firmware update (like they did on the RWD Models to "add" 15 miles - they just adjustet that constant lower)It's all BMS and I believe it's all lifetime wh/mi dependent... which is really dependent on seasons and driving behavior.
The charge you see when you end up charging the car or in the app slider is NOT lifetime nor anything else consumptionwise dependent.
This is incorrect for my M3MR at leastNOPE. When you first get your car, you can set the trip meter to track lifetime consumption. Someone posted this back in 2018 and I set my car when I picked it up.
Google Image Result for https://i.redd.it/a8ykdq3pmht21.jpg
If you take your odometer reading and total KWH use, it calculates wh/mi exactly. Lifetime wh/mi is totally dependent on driving habits, weather condition and car configuration.
Yeah sorry, @TJKR. This is incorrect. It's a constant. In your energy graph, that horizontal line labeled "rated" is the same on every car that's the same model and it never changes. Tesla takes the nominal pack remaining (which you can read with a CANBUS scanner) and multiplies by that number to get what it displays on the range. There are many many many examples of this if you don't have the tool to read the pack remaining yourself.NOPE. When you first get your car, you can set the trip meter to track lifetime consumption. Someone posted this back in 2018 and I set my car when I picked it up.
Google Image Result for https://i.redd.it/a8ykdq3pmht21.jpg
If you take your odometer reading and total KWH use, it calculates wh/mi exactly. Lifetime wh/mi is totally dependent on driving habits, weather condition and car configuration.
No problem. It's also recommended to let the battery get down to about 20% before charging, for balancing purposes. A lot of charging in the middle percentages makes it hard for the BMS to determine actual state of charge (SOC). Its theorized that Tesla is being conservative when there is uncertainty in BMS SOC values causing the display to show lower max range than it really is. This way it lessens the risk of having a shutdown prior to hitting "0" miles on the display. The car shuts down when the cell module with the lowest voltage hits the minimum allowed voltage. If you have a large imbalance, then you are artificially reducing your range because some cells/modules never get charged to their full potential since charging stops when any module hits 4.2 volts, regardless of the state of the other modules. This is why balancing is important.