Mobile Charger no longer included

[Rocky_H]

I realize I did not explain myself fully, with the reply and the disagree I got.

To @STS-134 's point, that's not what I was talking about. But yes, if someone is using extra extension cords and external third party dongle adapter things to switch between different outlet types that don't match and are at different amp levels, then that's hokey, but might require turning down the amps in the car to get it right. But that's not what I was responding to.

I was addressing @LVMY2022 's situation, where he or she has a standard J1772 charging station plugging directly into the car. There's no third party nonsense and external mismatched adapters there. The J1772 protocol is supposed to communicate all of this properly and should not ever require babysitting or micromanaging of the amps to make it work right. And if that setup is drawing too much current and tripping the breaker, it's just not configured correctly for the circuit. So I used the word "never", meaning when directly using a standard J1772 plug. And I really don't get why @FlatSix911 disagreed with my pointing that out.

 

[LVMY2022]

I realize I did not explain myself fully, with the reply and the disagree I got.

To @STS-134 's point, that's not what I was talking about. But yes, if someone is using extra extension cords and external third party dongle adapter things to switch between different outlet types that don't match and are at different amp levels, then that's hokey, but might require turning down the amps in the car to get it right. But that's not what I was responding to.

I was addressing @LVMY2022 's situation, where he or she has a standard J1772 charging station plugging directly into the car. There's no third party nonsense and external mismatched adapters there. The J1772 protocol is supposed to communicate all of this properly and should not ever require babysitting or micromanaging of the amps to make it work right. And if that setup is drawing too much current and tripping the breaker, it's just not configured correctly for the circuit. So I used the word "never", meaning when directly using a standard J1772 plug. And I really don't get why @FlatSix911 disagreed with my pointing that out.

The JuiceBox is rated at 40A, so if your breaker is 50A, then you have no issue, but if you have it at 40A, and has no ability to limit it to 32A (old version of JB40), then you can limit it using the Tesla App. But in my case, I limit it using the JB app. The original JB that I got can only charge up to 32A, so I had only 40A breaker, but they replaced it with the JB40 so my breaker can't handle 40A constant draw from JB40, and Tesla see what JB40 can draw. This is from my own experience just sharing to the user. But if you don't think it's correct, I am fine with it. I have a JB40, 40A breaker, and MY, and I know how it functions at my house, I limit my JB40 wifi to 32A (thru their app) then I don't need change it in MY, but if you don't have wifi version, then you need to perform it at Tesla App. My 2 cents... no disagreement here.

 

[Rocky_H]

The JuiceBox is rated at 40A, so if your breaker is 50A, then you have no issue, but if you have it at 40A, and has no ability to limit it to 32A (old version of JB40), then you can limit it using the Tesla App. But in my case, I limit it using the JB app. The original JB that I got can only charge up to 32A, so I had only 40A breaker, but they replaced it with the JB40 so my breaker can't handle 40A constant draw from JB40, and Tesla see what JB40 can draw. This is from my own experience just sharing to the user. But if you don't think it's correct, I am fine with it. I have a JB40, 40A breaker, and MY, and I know how it functions at my house, I limit my JB40 wifi to 32A (thru their app) then I don't need change it in MY, but if you don't have wifi version, then you need to perform it at Tesla App. My 2 cents... no disagreement here.

Ah, thanks for filling in the details. So you used to have a product that was made for a 40A circuit and were using it on a 40A circuit, so it was correct. But then that got replaced with a product that is supposed to be on a 50A circuit, but the circuit was never changed. That makes sense now as to why it's not configured properly.

 

[OliverM3]

Ah, thanks for filling in the details. So you used to have a product that was made for a 40A circuit and were using it on a 40A circuit, so it was correct. But then that got replaced with a product that is supposed to be on a 50A circuit, but the circuit was never changed. That makes sense now as to why it's not configured properly.

I'm surprised the JB doesn't have a setting. I can go in to my Chargepoint and select the breaker size which in turn reduces what it can give the car without having to do anything in the Tesla app.

 

[LVMY2022]

I'm surprised the JB doesn't have a setting. I can go in to my Chargepoint and select the breaker size which in turn reduces what it can give the car without having to do anything in the Tesla app.

For the very older model of JB which does not have wifi capability, you can't program it, but the new JB40 with wifi you can change to breaker size.

 

[SabrToothSqrl]

This gives me hope that the UMC will have to be included.

Brazil orders Apple to pay iPhone buyer $1,000 for not including charger | AppleInsider

A court in Brazil's Goiania city says Apple is in violation of consumer protection laws, and must compensate a customer who was sold an iPhone without a charger.

appleinsider.com

 

[rjack1282]

This gives me hope that the UMC will have to be included.

Brazil orders Apple to pay iPhone buyer $1,000 for not including charger | AppleInsider

A court in Brazil's Goiania city says Apple is in violation of consumer protection laws, and must compensate a customer who was sold an iPhone without a charger.

appleinsider.com

Oh yea Brazil the gold standard of anti-trust government.

 

[Sunvalleylaw]

Oh yea Brazil the gold standard of anti-trust government.

Well, if we act like third world countries in that regard . . .

I earned the high score in my Anti-Trust class in law school. "High Papered." One of the most useless things I ever did in a practical sense. Anti-trust enforcement in any meaningful way had ended a long time ago by then. (late 80's).

 

[Calliope]

You can squeeze and release the trigger button on the charging connector

I had no idea! That's easier than using the app or the in-car screen.

 

[sleepydoc]

Someone wants to sue over a $200 accessory?

Well, someone is pissed over a $200 (actually $300) accessory and sees an add from a law firm. There are law firms that specialize in class action suits and all they need is one plaintiff with standing to file the suit. They get it certified as a class action suit and then they get $$$$ while each person in the class that was 'harmed' gets a $20 credit on the Tesla store or something equally worthless. In the end Tesla loses money, the consumers get very little and the lawyers get the most.

 

[Bikeman]

For the very older model of JB which does not have wifi capability, you can't program it, but the new JB40 with wifi you can change to breaker size.

Wish I had the newer unit too, but I have one of those older JB40 non-wifi EVSE's on a 40A circuit. My SA and another member here, vanjwilson, have mentioned just placing the car at 32A and it should hold it there. But every time after you unlug, you have to reset the charging limitation in the car back to 32A, for example. I can live with that.

My house is on a 100A circuit. I'd love to bump up my JB40 to a 50A circuit for 40A charging, though I and probably also an electrician would have reservations allowing 50% of the house's capacity to go to one circuit? The wire run is less than 10 feet. Has anyone else here done something that smart (or reckless)?

 

[Rocky_H]

Wish I had the newer unit too, but I have one of those older JB40 non-wifi EVSE's on a 40A circuit. My SA and another member here, vanjwilson, have mentioned just placing the car at 32A and it should hold it there. But every time after you unplug, you have to reset the charging limitation in the car back to 32A, for example.

What you're seeing makes you think that, but that's not how that works in reality. You won't have to set it every time.

When you unplug, sure, the display will then default back to DISPLAYING the standard highest amps your car is capable of handling. That's what it always shows when you are not plugged in. But the car has already created a saved amp setting tagged to that GPS location when you changed it during charging. So if you were to plug back in again, it would drop back down to that reduced level you set before because it's using that saved setting.

The setting of scheduled or immediate charging is also set that way to create a saved entry at a location, because people may go back and forth with plugging in at home and at work, and it can have those settings of amps and schedule set per location.

But you do get the warnings from people here because that's how it is supposed to work, but has been seen to be not very reliable long term. Sometimes a software update in the car accidentally loses people's saved amp settings. Or the car's GPS detection is a little off, and it thinks the car is a few houses away and isn't using the location setting at your house. So it's not a good idea to leave your charging equipment configured wrong and try to rely on that adjusted setting in the car all the time.

 

[Sunvalleylaw]

What you're seeing makes you think that, but that's not how that works in reality. You won't have to set it every time.

When you unplug, sure, the display will then default back to DISPLAYING the standard highest amps your car is capable of handling. That's what it always shows when you are not plugged in. But the car has already created a saved amp setting tagged to that GPS location when you changed it during charging. So if you were to plug back in again, it would drop back down to that reduced level you set before because it's using that saved setting.

The setting of scheduled or immediate charging is also set that way to create a saved entry at a location, because people may go back and forth with plugging in at home and at work, and it can have those settings of amps and schedule set per location.

But you do get the warnings from people here because that's how it is supposed to work, but has been seen to be not very reliable long term. Sometimes a software update in the car accidentally loses people's saved amp settings. Or the car's GPS detection is a little off, and it thinks the car is a few houses away and isn't using the location setting at your house. So it's not a good idea to leave your charging equipment configured wrong and try to rely on that adjusted setting in the car all the time.

This not super technical, non-electrician guy will need to go over that in more detail after the car gets here.

Also, I am thinking about going ahead and getting a Wall Charger, as I said earlier somewhere, and saving my 14-50 for an ADU build out over my garage. Thinking I better find some sort of Electrical Service, Panels, Breakers and etc. For Dummies resource.

 

[Rocky_H]

This not super technical, non-electrician guy will need to go over that in more detail after the car gets here.

Also, I am thinking about going ahead and getting a Wall Charger, as I said earlier somewhere, and saving my 14-50 for an ADU build out over my garage. Thinking I better find some sort of Electrical Service, Panels, Breakers and etc. For Dummies resource.

The simple main point, though, is that people should do a real proper installation, and then all of the charging equipment will communicate with the car and manage all of this properly. You shouldn't have to know extra things and change configurations. It's only when people get into putting things on wrong sized circuits or using external adapters and extension cords that they need to know about how to cover those grey area cases.

 

[STS-134]

What you're seeing makes you think that, but that's not how that works in reality. You won't have to set it every time.

When you unplug, sure, the display will then default back to DISPLAYING the standard highest amps your car is capable of handling. That's what it always shows when you are not plugged in. But the car has already created a saved amp setting tagged to that GPS location when you changed it during charging. So if you were to plug back in again, it would drop back down to that reduced level you set before because it's using that saved setting.

The setting of scheduled or immediate charging is also set that way to create a saved entry at a location, because people may go back and forth with plugging in at home and at work, and it can have those settings of amps and schedule set per location.

Yeah but Tesla's UI for this is terrible. It reminds me of the UI on iOS for WiFi networks: iOS will remember networks you've connected to, but if said networks aren't in range, you can't forget them. If you set Scheduled Departure or Scheduled Charging or a limit on the number of amps at a given location, you can't clear it unless you go back to the same location or spoof GPS. And of course without the ability to see all of the settings you've configured on a map...

But you do get the warnings from people here because that's how it is supposed to work, but has been seen to be not very reliable long term. Sometimes a software update in the car accidentally loses people's saved amp settings. Or the car's GPS detection is a little off, and it thinks the car is a few houses away and isn't using the location setting at your house. So it's not a good idea to leave your charging equipment configured wrong and try to rely on that adjusted setting in the car all the time.

...you can't even verify them after a software update, when you are least likely to forget to check.

 

[SJC3]

Any recent deliveries not getting the charger?

 

[Sunvalleylaw]

The simple main point, though, is that people should do a real proper installation, and then all of the charging equipment will communicate with the car and manage all of this properly. You shouldn't have to know extra things and change configurations. It's only when people get into putting things on wrong sized circuits or using external adapters and extension cords that they need to know about how to cover those grey area cases.

Ok, so I just want to see a guide for what is needed to install the Wall Charger. Just so I get it through my thick skull. I want to verify that I have 220 and learn how to do that, and from there, it should be a really short run, at least on the one side of the garage where the panel is, to a proper charger. And I may be able to use what is already there for that 14-50, but I don't know. Will do some researching and figure it out.

 

[Rocky_H]

Ok, so I just want to see a guide for what is needed to install the Wall Charger. Just so I get it through my thick skull. I want to verify that I have 220 and learn how to do that

"220" is some century-old terminology that just won't die. Go ahead and start saying 240V.

and from there, it should be a really short run, at least on the one side of the garage where the panel is, to a proper charger. And I may be able to use what is already there for that 14-50, but I don't know. Will do some researching and figure it out.

People sometimes don't do themselves any favors by starting off saying, "Here's the thing I want." and then trying to get electricians to make that happen. It's a little backward. I think it's more helpful to start with, "Do a load calculation on my house's electrical service, and let me know how many amps I have available for a new circuit." That will be the more helpful starting information to then decide what you can install.

 

[Sunvalleylaw]

"220" is some century-old terminology that just won't die. Go ahead and start saying 240V.


People sometimes don't do themselves any favors by starting off saying, "Here's the thing I want." and then trying to get electricians to make that happen. It's a little backward. I think it's more helpful to start with, "Do a load calculation on my house's electrical service, and let me know how many amps I have available for a new circuit." That will be the more helpful starting information to then decide what you can install.

Ok, on the first part. Learning by error here.

Yeah, he (the guy who put in the 14-50 outlet) did that, and thought we would be fine even with a small apartment and a couple cars. And yeah, I should just call him and have him come back out after I order a wall charger. And I believe in letting pros do the jobs pros are trained to do. But I just would like to learn to understand more along the way.

 

[OliverM3]

Ok, on the first part. Learning by error here.

Yeah, he (the guy who put in the 14-50 outlet) did that, and thought we would be fine even with a small apartment and a couple cars. And yeah, I should just call him and have him come back out after I order a wall charger. And I believe in letting pros do the jobs pros are trained to do. But I just would like to learn to understand more along the way.

100% about educating yourself. I'm finding out that the pros don't always know EV charging. I'm still working with mine to get things fixed up.
It's not like I gave him the price I wanted to spend I told him I need a 50 amp 6-50 outlet and a 60amp wall charger hooked up. I showed him the manual for the chargpoint which said for 48 continuous load you need a 60 amp breaker. And still I have 55amp Romex for the install. And no GFCI on the outlet but that's another story.

Honestly I think the GFCI rule should be changed for wall connectors. Who am I? This is just in my opinion if you hook up a wall charger not a mobile charger. It's a fixed device and you're not plugging and unplugging it ever. And Chargepoint comes with a plug and specifically says it will trip if you use a gfci breaker because it has it's own built in one.