Mobile charging for Australia

[lennier]

Wouldn't it be easier to get a Shuko or UK pigtail and cut the plug off and install an Australian 15A plug, I believe they are both restricted to 13A charging. At least that way its completely safe (dont have to remember to dial down to 15A) until Tesla can release a specific Australian 15A pigtail. It might even be wise for Tesla Australia to make these available to customers as a temporary solution. Any word on if they will actually release an Australian 3ph pigtail so the number of adapters to be carried can be slimmed down.

Adam.

Could do that, but means yet another pigtail (rather than a second adaptor for an existing pigtail) and at 13A it's debatable if it's worth it over 10A (some would argue even 15A is not worth it, but for me 50% faster charging in some situations is well worth it).

 

[raynewman]

Could do that, but means yet another pigtail (rather than a second adaptor for an existing pigtail) and at 13A it's debatable if it's worth it over 10A (some would argue even 15A is not worth it, but for me 50% faster charging in some situations is well worth it).

and there's this from Tesla "If you plan on attempting to modify, this is something I advise strongly against."

 

[eclectricdave]

Id like to build my own 3 ph adaptor for the UMC. Thanks to Ray we know the function of the pins. I have dabbled with solar power over the last 30 years and have found that MC solar connector pins or ferrules have a good fit in the sockets of the UMC with the 10A head removed. The wires that go to the 3 phase plug can be crimped into the ferrules. I can then build a base to accommodate the pins safely & incorporate a new resistor which can parallel with the built-in one to give the desired value. If anyone in Melbourne has 3 phase Id like to test my setup as I dont have it here. Spending more $400 doesnt appeal to me.

 

[eclectricdave]

4 pin plug
For those folk worried about finding a 4 pin outlet instead of 5 pin why not travel with 4 pin plugs. Dismantle the wiring from the 5 pin. keep the N wire free and taped and redo the wiring into the 4 pin. Cut into the insulation of the wiring and find the N wire and T off a section with insulation removed by winding a new length of wire around it and put the N wire into the N connection of a 10A plug for the nearest 10A outlet which will probably be nearby. The N wire is black. Suggest 6 mm2 be used. NB there should be virtually no neutral current in a balanced three phase load.but if it is single phase it will be the sum of the single phases.

 

[omniwolf]

just posed this 4 pin idea to our friendly budding electrical engineering student, lex, and he had this to say:

lex
It should work yes, but it is definitely non compliant. You don't know that the size of the N wire in the socket you use is up to carrying the difference if one of the chargers fails for some reason.The reason that it should work is that the chargers form a balanced 3 phase load. I would not advise you to do that though. If you caused some issues, to the installation you'd be totally responsible.


lex
a big reason not to do this, is that if the neutral is connected to a circuit with an RCD, then that circuit will trip, but the car EVSE will still pull current with an open neutral, which can cause hazardous voltages.

just some things to consider..

 

[eclectricdave]

Thanks for the comments omniwolf. Firstly I dont think the 3 ph charger will work without a Neutral. I take on board that a RCD may trip even with a balanced load, You can get around this with an artificial neutral. This is done with three identical transformers connected in "star". The neutral is obtained from the internal N connection. Around 500VA each should do. In can also be done with capacitors inductors or resistors. I havent got 3 ph power here but can make 3 ph power with a VSD (variable speed drive). If anyone in Melbourne has 3 ph power & would be willing to let me try my 4 wire portable charger pl let me know.

 

[RichardMcN]

Really interested in this Eclectricdave. Solving the 4 pin problem seems to be the missing link in charging. Let us know how you go.

 

[eclectricdave]

Really interested in this Eclectricdave. Solving the 4 pin problem seems to be the missing link in charging. Let us know how you go.

I have a country friend who also has a Tesla 85D. Next time I see him Ill test my ideas on his 200kVA 3 ph gen set. It seems to me that the 4 pin 3 ph outlet is more common than the 5 pin. The synthetic neutral is aimed at saving you time & inconvenience. Regards David..

 

[ColinA]

I have a country friend who also has a Tesla 85D. Next time I see him Ill test my ideas on his 200kVA 3 ph gen set. It seems to me that the 4 pin 3 ph outlet is more common than the 5 pin. The synthetic neutral is aimed at saving you time & inconvenience. Regards David..

Everywhere I've been to charge off three phase power it has been 5 pin 32A.

 

[eclectricdave]

Does anyone know the function of the 2nd pilot pin on the UMC ref'd earlier as not connected?

 

[raynewman]

Does anyone know the function of the 2nd pilot pin on the UMC ref'd earlier as not connected?

According to my data, it's never connected.

 

[eclectricdave]

I connected the setup with 20kOhm resistor and L1 L2 L3 to single phase but only L1 produced power. The display said 32A could be used. Has anyone managed to get this 32A from single phase? I dont have three phase so cant test it. I wondering if the 2nd pilot has to be connected. David

 

[eclectricdave]

I have done my test with three phase power and a synthetic neutral and it worked! See separate thread "Running UMC from a 4 pin outlet 3 phase"

 

[cashie]

See separate thread "Running UMC from a 4 pin outlet 3 phase"

Running the UMC from a 4 pin outlet 3 phase

 

[RichardMcN]

OCTOPUS IDEA >>>

I'm looking for a post which I think was by Electric Dave or possibly someone else on the idea of a multi-tail adaptor, so you can plug into 2 or more 10A outlets simultaneously to draw 20 or 30 amps and charge up overnight almost anywhere. Domestic double outlets would be particularly suitable, as they are on the same phase and on the same circuit breaker so no RCD balance issues.

I'm not an electrician but have designed and commissioned industrial automation projects over the years, so I am anticipating a few things are needed in the octopus box ...

• A 10 amp circuit breaker for each tail so you don't draw more than 10A from the oultet with the lowest supply impedance.
• A phase comparison relay to avoid accidentally mixing phases.
• Current sensing relays on all actives and an input contactor to avoid a dangerous live plug, perhaps with a hold-down start button to allow current at start up.
• Maybe NC captive contacts on all the above to self-check everything is cycling.

Is there a relevant post anywhere?

Also not sure on the compliance side if there is any mandated code that prohibits a multi supply system such as this. If so what is the specific code provision?

Does anybody have anything that might help here?

 

[eclectricdave]

Im building such myself. For the time being I used two outlets

 

[LGGD]

I have heard of them referred to as a 'hydra'. That may aid your search.

 

[Mark E]

I'd expect that the octopus idea would not only be illegal but is quite likely to be very dangerous as well. First off, how would you be sure that the separate power points are on separate circuits? Second, what happens if they are on different phases?

 

[RichardMcN]

I'd expect that the octopus idea would not only be illegal but is quite likely to be very dangerous as well. First off, how would you be sure that the separate power points are on separate circuits? Second, what happens if they are on different phases?

No shortcuts on safety I most definitely agree !

 

[Mark E]

Also, after thinking about this some more - the plug 'prongs' on the secondary and tertiary legs would be live the instant power was applied to the first one. Seeing as these are uncovered and extend from the plug it is lethally dangerous.