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Mobile connector flashes 2x - “ground loss”
- Thread starter dohmahmigh
- Start date
where are you suggesting that i take that reading? in the subpanel? or at the 14-50 receptacle?
Thanks for clarifying. So sounds like the recommendation from this group is to run an insulated wire from the ground bus in the subpanel to the main/meter neutral junction?
That should be plenty. To make a good ground. NEC DOES require bonding bushing on concentric knockout though, if that pipe is metallic and is being used as the equipment ground.
Only on the utility side of the service disconnect, or if the voltage to ground exceeds 250V.
Taking a multimeter ohm reading between N and G at the 14-50 is a good way to start; if that's too high, then you can try chasing it upstream to see where the problem is.
But if the multimeter shows low milliohms, I'm unclear if that means the N-G bond is good, or if it can be a high impedance meter effect. Presumably the latter, since the EVSE is doing a low impedance N-G check, in effect, and it failed. Unless there's a problem with the EVSE.
Cheers, Wayne
Is there a 4 AWG size criteria also regarding bonding?
Also, does meter reading need to be done with power shut off? Seems like leakage currents could mess it up.
There are some rules on GECs run exposed that require more protection in sizes smaller than #4 AWG, but that wouldn't apply to EGCs (normal grounds).
This I don't know, but certainly doing it with the power shut off should give you a correct result.
Cheers, Wayne
just tested it. it has a continuous beep and fluctuates between 0 to 0.4 ohm, but eventually dips close to 0 ohm. is that right?
@wwhitney "Unless there's a problem with the EVSE." - i'm using the MC with the 5-15 to my car now and it's working fine. Can I rule out that the problem is with the MC? or could the MC be defective with higher 240V?
I wonder if you could plug it into your stove outlet and see if it still throws the error codes.
unfortunately don't have a 14-50 outlet for the stove. and i've asked a few neighbors and no one has one either 
stopcrazypp
Well-Known Member
Probably you would have more luck with a dryer outlet which is usually either 10-30 or 14-30. You would need to buy another adapter however to try those.unfortunately don't have a 14-50 outlet for the stove. and i've asked a few neighbors and no one has one either
actually someone down the street has a 14-50 outlet and i just tested it and the MC is working fine. So the problem is not w/ the MC or the adapter. It's with the outlet.
Given that, is the recommendation from this group still to run an insulated wire from the ground bus in the subpanel to the main/meter neutral junction?
Given that, is the recommendation from this group still to run an insulated wire from the ground bus in the subpanel to the main/meter neutral junction?
OxBrew
Active Member
You could test it by just hooking a temporary ground up real quick without going to the trouble of feeding it through any conduit.
Have you confirmed the outlet is wired correctly?
Have you confirmed the outlet is wired correctly?
Yea, it’s possible that the conduit isn’t continuous. You need to run #6. I would just run it temporary as suggested above. If it works you probably need to figure out what is going on with the conduit, eg, why isn’t it providing a good grounding path, because their may be other serious issues.
@OxBrew @qdeathstar so i connected the subpanel ground bar using some left over 6awg wires to reach the ground wire connected to the water pipe to the water heater. it was kind of hard to reach so i just "hooked" on to it but it didn't work. same "ground loss" error on the MC. (see pics)
Is the water pipe a good temporary place to test? should I have made the connection more secure?
Is the water pipe a good temporary place to test? should I have made the connection more secure?
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