No, you should connect the wire from the sub panel to your main panel. Also that looks like 12awg to me.
-
Want to remove ads? Register an account and login to see fewer ads, and become a Supporting Member to remove almost all ads.
Mobile connector flashes 2x - “ground loss”
- Thread starter dohmahmigh
- Start date
No, you should connect the wire from the sub panel to your main panel. Also that looks like 12awg to me.
Cheap Leviton 14-50R is OK for testing, short term use. Replace the Leviton 14-50R with one of the recommended industrial grade 14-50R (Hubbell, Bryant, Cooper, Eaton) as soon as possible. I am not sure about the ground.
Last edited:
stopcrazypp
Well-Known Member
You are the second case I read where a Hubbell/Bryant didn't work and a cheap outlet did. That's why I suggested to check your outlet very early on for proper installation. I suspect you aren't torquing the connections correctly or your ground may be undersized for the clamp (in which case a thicker pigtail or doubling up would help). It may also be the case the grounding in the cheap outlet is going through the case too, in which case a ground screw on the box would help (presuming it is a metal box and metal conduit).
A torque wrench to the specified torque is the proper way, but another trick people use is to torque the connections, tug on them, then torque again.
As others mentioned, I wouldn't use the Leviton long term, it is the outlet that almost exclusively is the one reported to overheat and melt.
Last edited:
stopcrazypp
Well-Known Member
Gen 2 Mobile connector is limited to 32A.
You would need a wall connector or a gen 1 or permanent 14-50 mobile connector for 40A.
No, all the information you've presented is consist with the receptacle being the problem, and the feeder having a proper EGC via its conduit as expected. The #6 was for testing purposes only.
Cheers, Wayne
SageBrush
REJECT Fascism
Yah. The moral to this story should be to check continuity for each terminal of the receptacle before installation, or at least as part of troubleshooting. I'm also inclined to think that a run of bad receptacles is out there.
stopcrazypp
Well-Known Member
The problem is continuity checks out fine as the OP checked that too. It's something else wrong that is not as easy to figure out. I believe the first case they replaced the outlet and had the same problem. They had to clamp the wires in a way that it was not designed (using the other side of the clamp). In the end they switched to a Legrand.
Discussion thread I'm referring to:
Master Thread: Definitive 14-50 NEMA Outlet Guide
Master Thread: Definitive 14-50 NEMA Outlet Guide
As such, I'm not sure if the OP getting another Hubbell would necessarily not have the same issue occur.
Last edited:
Using the other side of the clamp as in inserting the ground wire into receptacle from the other side?
stopcrazypp
Well-Known Member
As in clamping it between 2 & 3 in picture above, instead of between 1 & 2 as you are supposed to.
I don't know what that changes, some guesses of possibilities:
1) makes for better connection (don't really see why though, unless perhaps wire is very undersized for the outlet, given the v-clamp should result in a very tight connection; Hubbell says it works with #12-#6 solid or stranded copper wire so theoretically it shouldn't have been an issue).
2) bonds to neutral on the outlet
3) bonds to the metal bracket on outlet, so there is another ground path to outlet box.
Last edited:
Thanks for the illustration. Will give that a try once i get the new hubbell in (already returned the "defective" one). Is it less safe to clamp it between 2 & 3, instead of 1 & 2?
As in clamping it between 2 & 3 in picture above, instead of between 1 & 2 as you are supposed to.
I don't know what that changes, some guesses of possibilities:
1) makes for better connection (don't really see why though, unless perhaps wire is very undersized for the outlet, given the v-clamp should result in a very tight connection; Hubbell says it works with #12-#6 solid or stranded copper wire so theoretically it shouldn't have been an issue).
2) bonds to neutral on the outlet
3) bonds to the metal bracket on outlet, so there is another ground path to outlet box.
In the 14-50 receptacle box, there's a screw in the metal box in which the ground wire is tied to it and then get clamped into the receptacle with both the hubbell and leviton installation.
stopcrazypp
Well-Known Member
You aren't supposed to clamp it between 2 & 3 at all. 1&2 is how you are supposed to do it and should be the one to result in a tight connection. For some reason for that person 2&3 works, but 1&2 doesn't.
Grounding to box should be ok then, just pointing out all the possibilities.
is there a specific part number for Legrand? They're also suspiciously cheap. Is this the right one? https://www.amazon.com/Legrand-Seym...ocphy=9031973&hvtargid=pla-304351396020&psc=1
stopcrazypp
Well-Known Member
Yes, Legrand is a cheap residential outlet like the Leviton, but the major difference is the pins inside are not half sized steel like the Leviton, so should be safer.
Differences mentioned here:
NEMA 14-50 outlet installed
If you want an industrial outlet that uses screw terminals, you can look at the Cooper/Eaton 5454N (also mentioned in that thread). It will have a larger front diameter like the Hubbell 9450A/Bryant 9450FR given it is also a industrial outlet. It is one of the two models Tesla officially recommends.
https://www.amazon.com/EATON-5754N-Receptacles-Size-Gray/dp/B07K2JD2KC/
Maybe you can try that next if the Hubbell fails.
Last edited:
Thank you! do you happen to know if the Hubbell SS701 faceplate fits the Bryant or Cooper/Eaton receptacles? Can they fit in the same metal box as the one used for Hubbell?
stopcrazypp
Well-Known Member
The Hubbell plate definitely fits the Bryant, they are almost identical (Bryant is made by Hubbell). I detail the face plate options here:
Master Thread: Definitive 14-50 NEMA Outlet Guide
Most people get the Bryant from Grainger given it's just $46 there (vs the Hubbell being over $100):
https://www.grainger.com/product/GRAINGER-APPROVED-Receptacle-Single-49YY93
The Cooper/Eaton/Arrow Hart 5754N appears to have an identical front diameter, so face plate should fit just the same:
Master Thread: Definitive 14-50 NEMA Outlet Guide
It actually is smaller than the Hubbell, so if a Hubbell fits in your box, it definitely will fit the 5754N.
From Eaton's webpage for 5754N:
https://www.eaton.com/us/en-us/skuPage.5754N.specifications.html
Links this guide, which on page 22 says the 5754N fits an Eaton 69 wall plate:
https://www.eaton.com/content/dam/e...ing-devices/nema-straightblade/ahbg-b-sec.pdf
The 69 is said to have a 2.47" hole, which is the same size as the Hubbell/Bryant.
https://www.eaton.com/us/en-us/skuPage.69-BOX.html
Similar threads
