If the installation is outdoors the Wall Connector is the better option, fully weather rated. The Gen3 Wall Connector now comes with a 24 ft charging cord (Gen2 was 24 ft, Gen3 was originally shorter. The Tesla Gen2 Mobile Connector has an 18.5 ft charging cord.) The Gen3 Wall Connector supports load sharing (up to 4 WC on the same circuit.) The WC can be programmed to only recognize specific Tesla vehicles (no free loaders using your WC.)
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mobile vs wall charger?
- Thread starter dschultz
- Start date
Thanks for the info. Very helpful.
Cheapest: I'll be selling the Leaf when the Tesla arrives so won't have Leaf charger anymore.
Easy: I think this is where I'll start.
Another & Best: Once I have the car and figure out what we need in terms of physical placement of the charger, I'll probably enlist my son (an electrician) for a father/son project to install a new outlet properly (or rewire the existing one, if it happens to be in the right location, which is doubtful.)
This will also give you a 14-50 plug to carry on road-trips to enable use of RV parks for convenience or as a backup. The money will be well spent either way.
I like your idea and thought of doing the same but bought a Nema 14-50 Adapter and keeping it just in case
UncleCreepy
Member
This might be slightly off-topic, but I thought I'd provide another data point. This morning when I plugged in the kettle to make some tea (I routinely unplug it after I'm done) I heard a crackling sound coming from the outlet. Upon moving the plug a little bit it became clear that there is no sufficient contact between the socket and the plug anymore. It was worn out.
I keep reading you need to use a "quality outlet" for charging your car, but what does that actually mean to the majority of forum members? How do you tell a high quality from a low quality 120V outlet? Is it the price? Some stranger's advice based on anecdotal evidence?
My point is: if you draw 12 Amps or more over the course of several hours, it is a lot safer to use a hardwired connection. Let's be honest: even if we notice a potential problem, many people will say "it's okay, it worked yesterday". If that was a valid argument, nothing would ever break.
Just my $0.02. As always, do what's right for you.
I keep reading you need to use a "quality outlet" for charging your car, but what does that actually mean to the majority of forum members? How do you tell a high quality from a low quality 120V outlet? Is it the price? Some stranger's advice based on anecdotal evidence?
My point is: if you draw 12 Amps or more over the course of several hours, it is a lot safer to use a hardwired connection. Let's be honest: even if we notice a potential problem, many people will say "it's okay, it worked yesterday". If that was a valid argument, nothing would ever break.
Just my $0.02. As always, do what's right for you.
It usually matters less for a 120v outlet, but generally speaking it's going to be price and build quality. You'll want to look at how the contacts inside of the socket will grip the plug. Some cheap ones will only have a small area of contact between the plug and receptacle (because the connector inside is angled). Also take a look at how the receptacle connects to the wires in the wall. At the minimum, you'll want a screw-type connection. However, high quality receptacles have clamps to hold wires securely in place and maximize contact area.
For 240v outlets, if you look at a Hubbell 14-50 outlet, it's by far the highest quality (and most expensive) outlet that you can find.
For 240v outlets, if you look at a Hubbell 14-50 outlet, it's by far the highest quality (and most expensive) outlet that you can find.
We've fried more than one 120v outlet charging cars. These were original equipment outlets. 100% duty cycle at nearly the rated capacity can often be more than contractor or Home Depot grade outlets can handle.
I got the gen3 wall charger and love it, mounted outside and works great. I also installed a 14-50 outlet as a back-up inside my garage just in case there's any issue with the outside unit or if a buddy is visiting and needs a charge too. Just make sure you have it all wired properly and if you're not a big DIY type or have a good understanding of electrical, hire a licensed electrician. Well worth it.
Should always have these types of jobs installed by a licensed and certificated electrician. Pay for the $200-300 permit (obtain a copy of the inspection report).
Reason: If, by some small chance, there is a fire due to outlet and it wasn't installed with a permit/inspection by a professional your homeowners insurance will not cover the damages.
csrpenfab
Member
"Reason: If, by some small chance, there is a fire due to outlet and it wasn't installed with a permit/inspection by a professional your homeowners insurance will not cover the damages." - biggest myth in insurance industry! I've worked in commercial insurance for all of my adult life, and this simply is not true. Plenty of homes burn down from DIY repairs and losses are still covered. Do the job right and you'll be just fine.
You're stating if I install a 14/50 outlet myself and six months later my house catches fire due to an electrical fire from the 14/50 outlet, the homeowners insurance will cover the damages after they find out? Installing a 14/50 legally requires a permit to be pulled from the county, I find your statement interesting. It's not the same as installing a new ceiling light or replacing an outlet. 14/50 outlets require permits.
Example: If I decided to build my own deck and didn't installed it correctly, then had a gathering of 25 people standing on it and it collapsed...pretty sure insurance would not cover the liability.
PS: I have a property management company. Oversee 100+ properties (most commercial). We work with several insurance agents (10-15 years) and I'm surprised by your statement.
roblab
Active Member
Installing a 14-50 outlet by the homeowner does not require a permit in my county. It certainly is, in my opinion, the same as installing an outlet (it's an outlet) or a ceiling fan (it's easier). If it takes six months for the outlet to cause a fire, you've got some kind of magic going on, and I would first ask why it didn't cause a fire sooner, and, second, why didn't it kick the circuit breaker? Homeowners insurance should pay for the damages, and your rates should go up because you're a lousy electrician.
That said, one should check for heat once in a while, at the outlet, down the cord, and at the car. My car alone will pull almost ten times the amount of power that my home uses in a day. Most people have no idea the amount of power that sits under the car.
Please ask your insurance agents to reference a case where a DIY outlet install caused a denial of coverage. I see nothing in my policy referencing unpermitted work. Get the permit because you care about your life and lives of others, not because of some speculation on insurance coverage. And it's worth noting that if you put 10% down on your home, the insurance really isn't for you anyway, it's for the mortgage holder.
csrpenfab
Member
So true. Read your policy declarations and you won’t see any exclusions for lack of permitted work, being an idiot, etc. Your only requirement is to take steps to minimize loss once it occurs (e.g, shut off the water if it’s leaking). We pay plenty of total house losses from people grilling in the garage, using extension cords as permanent wiring, etc. Sure you’ll get cancelled, but your loss is covered.
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