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Vendor Model 3 Öhlins DFV Coilovers - Engineered by Redwood Motorsports ™

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Hi folks and redwood
I got AWD GT coils

Recently I got sound from rear. Recorded sound see attached.

First look show its somewhere on top hat or rear suspension (redwood unit)

We decided to change it from right to left, and sound moved as well.

So obviously its top hat (oem) or your unit.
Any help?

We planned try to replace both rear absorber/damper back to oem, so to determine is that top hat or rear absorber/damper.
Did you send that clip to RW? Their service response time must've improved by now...

If that's happening (or the most audible) at low speed/rough-ish road, then in sounds like the rear spherical bushing/bearing binding, where the shock mounts to the suspension arm. A few of us early adopters had it. If you have the metal rear bushing version then spray some lubricant in there to see if it quiets it down for a day or two.


If you have the rubber bushing version, it's possible that the tophat is loose.
 
Did you send that clip to RW? Their service response time must've improved by now...

If that's happening (or the most audible) at low speed/rough-ish road, then in sounds like the rear spherical bushing/bearing binding, where the shock mounts to the suspension arm. A few of us early adopters had it. If you have the metal rear bushing version then spray some lubricant in there to see if it quiets it down for a day or two.


If you have the rubber bushing version, it's possible that the tophat is loose.
Yeah clip sent to them.

Clip recorder on low under 20mph mostly, with child in trunk :)
Noise happens on any non ideal road, mostly all time, except totally newly made roads.
Sound present on any city legal speeds upto 100kph
Will disassemble and make a video.
 
Yeah clip sent to them.

Clip recorder on low under 20mph mostly, with child in trunk :)
Noise happens on any non ideal road, mostly all time, except totally newly made roads.
Sound present on any city legal speeds upto 100kph
Will disassemble and make a video.

Try spraying some lubricant in there before spending time/money on disassembly. It's cheap diagnostics. My rear metal bushings were binding like crazy and making the same noise, but everything looked good in visual inspections.

You can safely throw OEM dampers back on for diagnostics. You'll be somewhat underdamped in the rear, so don't drive it like you stole it.
 
Replaced right rear absorber to OEM (keep same tophat)
Knocking sound disappeared.
Here are photos and video mount on tophat

Now in trunk it looks like I got much less noise from right (OEM) absorber in general, then from left (Redwood).

Hope photos and video help it any way.

IMO way to much

Plan:
I will drive few days in this setup, than I guess will try to replace second read absorber to OEM
and after another few days
And then both back to Redwood to feel difference

Looks pretty "rusty" and its not even after 1year...and less 10k km
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@dsgerbc
What exactly to lub? rubber limiter between absorber and tophat? or tophat plastics?
 

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What exactly to lub? rubber limiter between absorber and tophat? or tophat plastics?

See the quote below:

the rear spherical bushing/bearing binding, where the shock mounts to the suspension arm. A few of us early adopters had it. If you have the metal rear bushing version then spray some lubricant in there to see if it quiets it down for a day or two.
Judging by metal sleeves in your pics, you have a spherical bearing lower mount, and I'd bet you have the same problem as I mentioned above - spherical bearing binding.
You spray lubricant onto the spherical bearing - the bolt hole at the bottom of the shock where it mounts to the suspension arm.

That is diagnostics. After that you can either wait for 5k miles to see if the spherical bearing wears in and the noise eventually goes away, request a replacement pre-broken-in rear set from RW, or pay to upgrade to rubber rear mounts.

Personally, I wouldn't drive with mismatched left/right rear shocks for too long...
 
Yeah clip sent to them.

Clip recorder on low under 20mph mostly, with child in trunk :)
Noise happens on any non ideal road, mostly all time, except totally newly made roads.
Sound present on any city legal speeds upto 100kph
Will disassemble and make a video.

Hey Zeuz,
I just sent over an email to you yesterday. Do you have the V1 or V2 lower damper mount (looks like spherical based on the spacers)? I'm surprised to see the rust you're exhibiting so soon... first we've seen with rust, but the v1 spherical spacers are Zinc plated. Our new V2 lower damper adjuster (that is the low NVH rubber-bushing version with the new adjuster mechanism) has a Nickel plated lower.

For anyone interested, the spherical are still available for track applications, but we have introduced the new V2 Rubber-Bushing version and new style adjuster. These can be upgraded from v1, but, we'd need you to send your rear shocks in to do the upgrade (or send to a local authorized Redwood service center). I can set you up with someone in Europe if you do not want to send them all the way back to the states. While a spherical performs best, as the bearings can get sticky over time (or when new and not broken in) a spherical can start to make noise over time - and while the performance is better the Tesla rear shock towers transfer a ton of noise to the cabin... so the sound is amplified - usually heard over broken pavement at slower speeds only - but can be annoying.

20210203-RedwoodOhlinsV2adjuster_1512x.jpg


We can help v1 customers upgrade to the new v2 design - if you're a v1 customer looking to upgrade please email [email protected] . We're happy to send new V1 lower spacers for free, but if you do decide to move to the v2, the new spacers have a tougher plating (Nickle) instead of the standard Zinc - which will do better in your harsh climate.

Getting your noises and any issues that our customers have resolved is a top priority for us - for the life of our products! Please feel free to reach out via email or phone (calls or text message) 510-402-6222 Thank you for your patience, we'll get you sorted.
 
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Just finished having mine installed and I have to say, Redwood has put together a high quality package, here (I went with Dual Motor/Performance Sport). The coilovers definitely delivered on what I was looking for, which was no loss in daily road manners, while being able to close the fender gap and stiffen things up a bit for when I want to push it a bit harder. I actually liked the OEM performance suspension, save for the fact that I had a bit more roll than desired and it rode high (for me). So this setup improved on the pros and resolved the cons.

My shop even went so far as to say they stood out from the other installs they had done, and really liked the ride, which says a lot given the vehicles they work on. No noise or drama, glad the 3 community has access to quality hardware like this.
I'm looking at Redwood's coils. Any update on how you feel about the kit ? Thanks!
 
Now available at Redwood Motorsports! Ohlins 'Road & Track' DFV coilovers for Model 3 / Model Y. Hop on our website Model 3 Öhlins - Standard 'Road & Track' Kit AND Model Y Öhlins - Standard 'Road & Track' Kit for more information!

Information about the official Ohlins release including specs, additional discussion and RWMS accesories/options in the following thread:


This is the more affordable entry level Ohlins kit manufactured by Ohlins Sweden... lower initial price point (though much higher spring rates, cheaper steel front forks, a more agressive Street/Track focus. We will be offering all of our Redwood Ohlins DFV upgrades along with the standard kits (billet front forks, bump stop limiters, billet remote adjusters, floating top hats etc.). We are still full swing on all custom Redwood Ohlins DFV kits, but this is a nice affordable option to be more price competitive with the KW and other offerings. Bang for buck a really great value!



TESMU00S1_Front_720x.jpg
 
[ reposting in a more appropriate / focused thread! ]

Yesterday I did a first quick twisty road run since installing Redwood Öhlins DFV Performance Sport coilovers with the optional Redwood billet aluminum pillowball top hats + MPP FLCA bearings + MPP compression rod inserts + getting the car aligned.

Other car setup: I had already replaced the Uberturbines+PZ4 with 245/45R18 Bridgestone Potenza Sport on 18x8.5" Titan7 T-S5 forged wheels. Ride height at all 4 corners is matched to this car's stock height at the rear. (Going low is not for me or my wife or the places we drive.) Dampers are set at 11 clicks from full stiff front+rear, which is about 2/3rds stiff (full adjustment range is 34 clicks if I recall correctly), I haven't tried other damper settings yet. (The DFV have one adjustment knob for compression + rebound.)

As background, around here most low-traffic twisty roads have lots of very tight turns and nasty ill-maintained pavement. They can be a challenge for suspension control beyond just cornering forces. Racecar stiff and low is not right for them. Nor is too soft though. The stock suspension was a mess if you got going real fast (still within limits of stock M3P grip), the car would get real floaty and bouncy and the weight would keep shifting all over the place out of sync with the actual road and driver inputs.

(There are smooth, well-paved twisty roads too of course, but most of them are either much higher traffic, or a bit of a detour from my regular driving, or they have homes / businesses / etc and are completely inappropriate for fast driving. I'll test the new suspension on smoother, higher speed twisties when I have a chance though.)

The best way I can sum up the new setup is...drama-free. It's firm and sporty yet not harsh, it smooths out rough stuff much better than stock suspension. It feels always stable and in control, like nothing can upset the car now (short of impacts where you stop and look for damage after). The wheels follow the road, the weight stays on the wheels, the reactions stay prompt, and everything just flows. The car moves with the road as needed but not more than needed. You feel the road but it's not beating you up about it. Even when I went fast over a big dip where the M3P ran out of rear suspension travel, it somehow oozed almost gently into the bump stops, and then rebounded promptly + accurately without any further effects. Felt in control and much smoother than stock. With the stock suspension going fast over a dip like that the car would slam really hard into the bump stops, and then struggle to regain composure afterwards.

Ride quality with the pillowballs and dampers at about 2/3rds stiff is comparable (not identical!) to stock on better roads, and better than stock on bad roads. The worse the pavement and the faster you drive over it, the bigger the ride quality improvement. The ride is a little different though, for sure you can tell the it's firmer, especially at low speeds over mildly messy neighborhood roads, but it's more controlled without the stock bounciness, so overall the ride feels at least as good to me, and often better. About the only time the stock suspension rode better was when going slow over rough bumps or roads. At a certain range of slow speeds this suspension just moves the whole car up and down to follow, whereas the stock suspension would smooth things out a bit more with its bounciness/springiness. Drive faster/harder and this suspension smooths out more without losing control.

[ My opinion of the ride does reflect my preference for firm control over any bounce or float. If you want your car to glide over the road and really filter it out like a good air suspension then the "Performance Sport" coilover kit + spherical bearing top hats aren't what you want. ;) Based on this setup I would guess Redwood's GT kit + stock top hats can ride real smooth, and still be a big handling upgrade thanks to vastly better damping than stock. (Heck probably a bottle of quality olive oil would dampen better than stock...) I've read the GT spring rates are significantly softer than Performance Sport, and the dampers are tuned to match of course. This Performance Sport kit is right on the money for how I want for my M3P to drive, but I'm pretty curious now how the GT kit feels and handles. ]

Everything above is just trying to compare the suspension mods vs stock suspension. If you include the upgraded wheel+tire setup my car easily rides better than 100% stock, but that's not a fair comparison. However I did make a conscious decision to pair taller sidewalls (245/45R18) with the firm "performance sport" coilover kit. I think the result is much more to my liking than rubberband tires + softer suspension. I also picked tires that were reported to have very sturdy sidewalls and sharp steering response, and that surely helped. These 300TW Potenza Sport feel more sturdy and responsive than anything else I've used in the "max performance" category, they really feel great in 245/45R18, and also grip way better than the OE Pirelli PZ4.

If there's any notable street handling limitation still remaining, I'd say it's the Model 3's lack of suspension travel, especially in the rear, and low ground clearance. That's not the fault of these coilovers, in fact it's less of an issue now with stiffer springs + better damping, but fundamentally the Model 3's limited travel and clearance is still there. Redwood does say this kit is good for a small lift though if you want...

I'll try turning down the damper stiffness soon and see how that affects ride + handling. And hopefully in the next week or two I'll end up on some longer twisty road runs. This was just a few miles for quick fun and to make sure everything feels good before my wife needs the car for a longer outing (involving a lot more twisty road miles).
 
A few more notes:

My suspension upgrade choices were focused on handling. I was always fine with stock M3P ride quality, especially after switching to the more practical 18" wheel+tire setup with taller sidewalls. It's the Model 3's handling in fast driving through twisty back roads that I found sorely lacking, even on my test drives - hence why I ordered all these suspension upgrades before picking up the car. :)

I was expecting some ride quality improvement on softer damper settings (not tested yet!), based on experience driving another car (not a Tesla) with Öhlins DFV, but that wasn't my focus. I wanted much better handling without messing up the ride.



Turn-in and steering responses are of course way way better. I'm sure the coilovers, pillowballs, and FLCA bearings all helped this in their own ways. I've still got lots of rubber bushings left so you wouldn't confuse my car for a literal race car, but it's much sharper now and I'm happy with it.



Let's talk lean in turns. First, keep in mind I have NOT pushed the car to its limits with the new suspension yet. My gonads aren't big enough to do that on a tight, twisty back road. I will re-explore its limits and handling balance when I have a chance, at an appropriate time and place, which is a lot more rare for me than twisty road driving.

Now lean isn't something I was directly focused on. I care a lot about how a car handles quick back-and-forth transitions, where too much lean is certainly bad, but beyond that I just don't want to corner on the bumpstops of course. Does the car now lean less under the same cornering forces? Yes. Does it feel completely flat like a stiff racecar? No. The lean feels perfectly fine and gets out of the way, it's not too much, it doesn't draw attention, and it doesn't seem to slow down any transitions. The lean is just there in the background, as part of feeling what the car is doing. Basically I think the lean reflects how this suspension is NOT too stiff for road use. If a suspension didn't lean under hard cornering, it probably wouldn't absorb/handle big bumps and dips well either.

Now if your preference is to really minimize lean, even if it means somewhat less compliance over one-side and mid-corner bumps, I think it would be totally reasonable to combine these Performance Sport coilovers with upgraded sway bars. Based on my initial driving so far, and my own preferences, I'm not planning to upgrade my sway bars, but I have done so on two different past cars, so I have some experience with the good and bad effects they can have. Based on that I think upgraded sways would be a reasonable choice depending on your goals/preferences for the suspension.



If I understand the Redwood coilovers instructions correctly, since I'm running stock height I could safely add 15mm more rear suspension travel than how they're currently setup. I'm totally new to coilovers and had trouble adjusting the free length though, I will revisit it at some point. That one big dip where I hit the rear bumps stops I would've hit them on the stock suspension too, and I didn't feel bump stops anywhere else, so I'm not feeling any lost suspension travel. But if there's more travel to be safely gained at stock height, without risking the battery too much, then of course I want it.



I've no plans to ever track this car, but I do have a bit of HPDE experience from many years ago, so I'll try to extrapolate what this setup might feel like. Basically, I think if you do primarily street driving with occasional track days (that was me with my last ICE car), this Performance Sport kit would be just right. Is it track rat / racecar firm? No. Redwood has a separate "Race/HPDE" version of their kit for that. If your car is more of a weekend warrior seeing a lot of track time, and especially if you're running track-focused wheels+tires+alignment, my guess is a stiffer setup like the Race/HPDE kit would be worthwhile. That's probably what I would get if I was planning a lot of track time but still wanting to keep the car streetable and keep my suspension setup simple (off-the-shelf and with the DFV's combined compression+rebound adjustment). Beyond that I'll just drool over custom suspension setups based around actual racecar level dampers... 🤤 Maybe Redwood could help build an Öhlins TTX based setup if you're building a straight up track/race car. 😉
 
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A final few impressions (final for now, until more "performance" driving)...


Tentatively frontend grip seems better. Now as mentioned I haven't pushed the car to its limits with the new suspension yet, but in very sharp, slow corners (the kind that are basically u-turns) I naturally like to throw the car into them as hard as I can, so long as there's room for me to slip and slide if needed. I felt like the front just held on without any hint of complaint at forces that before would have it at least hinting at slipping.

That said, the awful 2022.12.3.1 SW update steering weight change has really messed up steering feel in low-speed corners. It's not an issue with my suspension or car, it's a Tesla SW change that I got after installing the new suspension, before getting it aligned. I very briefly got to experience the steering weighting with the new suspension + old SW and it was gooood...but now it's not anymore, thank you Tesla. :( You can read about the issue here: Sports mode steering feels significantly lighter



With the confidence and composure from this new suspension, I'm feeling bits of one-wheel-spin from the opens diffs on this car more and really wanting some limited slip diffs now. :) As y'all probably know the front and rear diffs are both open, which surely is best for efficiency/range, but it's not best for traction on low-grip surfaces or coming out of corners. My last ICE car had limited slip diffs all around and it made a real difference in some situations. For example, powering out of a corner with dirt strewn across it. I'm not modifying my M3P's drivetrain at all for now, but once the warranty is up, if I'm still feeling like I'll keep the car for years to come I'll probably start looking at LSD options, especially for the rear.

Edit: What I really want in a sporty AWD EV is of course quad motors, not LSD's. Hopefully someday...
 
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A few more things:

I ended up installing front suspension only at first, then rear a week later, then alignment + some adjustments 1.5 weeks later still. So I had 2.5 weeks between experiencing the new ride vs original ride.

The new suspension really seemed to smooth out a lot after alignment + reassembly of a rear top hat that was a little clattery initially (clatter all gone now) + a final preload adjustment on front driver's side corner. Initially the suspension felt clearly stiffer in casual driving but now it really feels at least as smooth and maybe smoother overall than stock, again with the dampers set at 10-11 clicks this whole time. (I've been counting 11 including the first click so not sure if that's really 11 or 10.) Like I said before, you can tell it's firmer than stock springs, but there's really no hard edge to the suspension...just tight control without harshness. So if you install these and it feels firmer than you expect, don't fret, let things break in and get your preload + alignment dialed in and it'll probably smooth right out.

Because it's been weeks since I had full stock suspension on I can't give any more precise ride quality comparison. Hopefully I'll have a chance to drive a stock 2021 M3P back-to-back with mine sometime.
 
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Last night I softened up the front and rear dampers together, changing from 11 clicks to 22 clicks (counting the 1st click as 1, higher is softer). Note full range is 1 to 34 if I recall correctly, so this is not full soft at all, though I think you wouldn't want to go much softer on the normal Performance Sport springs.

With my passengers I couldn't push the car hard at all, this post just from normal, gentle highway and local road driving, nothing even slightly aggressive at all.



Ride and handling impressions:

The ride got smoother, especially with a bit of speed. The change was noticeable right away. The car felt proportionally softer overall, less responsive. It still turned in perfectly well for this gentle driving, quite likely better than stock (difficult to directly compare that weeks apart), but comparing 22 clicks vs 11 clicks the car was clearly softer in all its responses.

I'm pretty sure the ride was overall significantly better than stock suspension. The one caveat as before still applied, if you go very slow over large bumps then you can tell the Performance Sport springs are stiffer - they're just not going to compress as much as the softer stock springs that scenario, no matter how gentle the damping is. If you don't want stiffer springs get the GT kit of course.

Since I couldn't push the car hard at all I can't tell you anything about how 22 clicks feels for shredding up twisties or pushed to the car's limits around empty ramps. Maybe another time. =)

In the casual driving I did, including highway speeds up to about 75-78mph, 22 clicks never felt underdampened from a ride quality perspective. The car didn't feel floaty, and didn't get into any repeated oscillations. I didn't go fast over anything big enough to test hitting the bump stops though.

Softening the dampers seemed to bring out damper noise more. That was unexpected and was the only NVH negative. Not noticeable on the highway, but was at low speeds on bumpier local roads. I think the additional noise was mostly or entirely from the rear but not 100% sure. This is something I definitely want to address. I'm sure I'd hear less without the pillowball top hats, obviously they're going to transmit more NVH, but I don't think the dampers themselves should make extra noises just from softening to 22 clicks.



Verdict:

In terms of overall driving feel I much prefer 11 clicks over 22 clicks. At 11 clicks this suspension feels taught, sporty, super buttoned down, yet not harsh at all. That's how I want my M3P to feel. At 22 clicks there's a softness to the responses, even if it still handles well it's just not the feeling I want. I will use soft settings like that on occasion for sensitive passengers, but for daily driving it's too soft for me, makes the car less fun, and I don't particularly care for the extra smooth ride myself. I've already set it back to 11 clicks now, I'll revisit softer settings again some other time.



Recommendations based on this:

1) If you want this gentle a ride all the time, get the GT kit instead with its softer springs. It should be even smoother and will probably feel like a better pairing.

2) When taking particularly sensitive passengers for a longer ride, go ahead and soften the dampers temporarily, it really does make the ride smoother with no ride quality downsides that I could detect, and of course you can change right back to a sporty setting when you're done.

3) Adjusting the dampers is super fast and easy, personal mobility willing. No need for tools, nor for lifting the car, it barely takes a few minutes total, most of it spent just carefully counting the clicks. The rear clicks/detents are very apparent, the fronts can be subtle, especially through the remote adjuster extensions.

4) If you buy the Performance Sport kit and later want the gentle ride all the time, you'll be fine, it really does ride well at 22 clicks, and you could swap in softer springs too for maximum smoothness. The adjustment range feels plenty wide to support softer, stock-like spring rates without a revalve. (If considering this ask Redwood their advice of course, don't blindly follow mine.)
 
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I personally really enjoyed my RW Ohlins Performance sport springs at the 18-22 open range for the street and in the tight canyons behind my house. I setup the rear a couple clickers more open, so faster rebound in the rear to keep those tires planted. That canyon is not high speed imo and has horrible surface conditions so the fast rebound works amazingly well and keeps everything real confident. Not bouncing off the mountain was a huge bonus. lol. I upgraded to the HPDE springs to test it out and felt that the sport springs were best suited for those dampers and would have custom valved for the higher HPDE rates. It's quite possible that the new off the shelf Ohlins kit will take to those HPDE rates quite well and can't wait to see feedback from Redwood on that. The fact that they will be using a straight spring in the rear will make spring swaps a lot easier too. Will be cool to see some guys test out some 12kg/mm front and 14 or 15kg/mm in the rear to see how the dampers take to that for the more track dedicated guys.

AFAIK, Redwood does valve the GT dampers differently but like you said there is a pretty wide adjustment range towards open and the faster rebound. I think the dampers will take to softer rates really well also. I rode in their new kit they are releasing and that thing is super cushy for the ultimate "lexus" like ride.
 
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I personally really enjoyed my RW Ohlins Performance sport springs at the 18-22 open range for the street and in the tight canyons behind my house. I setup the rear a couple clickers more open, so faster rebound in the rear to keep those tires planted. That canyon is not high speed imo and has horrible surface conditions so the fast rebound works amazingly well and keeps everything real confident. Not bouncing off the mountain was a huge bonus. lol. I upgraded to the HPDE springs to test it out and felt that the sport springs were best suited for those dampers and would have custom valved for the higher HPDE rates. It's quite possible that the new off the shelf Ohlins kit will take to those HPDE rates quite well and can't wait to see feedback from Redwood on that. The fact that they will be using a straight spring in the rear will make spring swaps a lot easier too. Will be cool to see some guys test out some 12kg/mm front and 14 or 15kg/mm in the rear to see how the dampers take to that for the more track dedicated guys.

AFAIK, Redwood does valve the GT dampers differently but like you said there is a pretty wide adjustment range towards open and the faster rebound. I think the dampers will take to softer rates really well also. I rode in their new kit they are releasing and that thing is super cushy for the ultimate "lexus" like ride.
@P3D-R Thanks for writing up those experiences. I'll try 18 clicks next including in the twisties back-to-back with 11 clicks. So far 11 clicks hasn't felt too stiff for narrow nasty canyon pavement, it's firm and follows the road but the car still feels planted to me coming off bumps and out of dips. But it's quite possible it'll feel even better on such roads after softening it up!

Honestly I think the biggest thing holding me back now in such driving is the lack of suspension travel and ground clearance. I maintained stock M3P height as mentioned, but even then this car feels challenged for suspension travel, I'm pretty sure my STI had more and that was helpful in real-world driving on poorly maintained roads. A little softer might be better for roadholding in theory but not if it means hitting the bump stops more or harder, I think, but I'll try it and see how it feels! I can't help but think that lowering this car would be detrimental to its real-world handling, even if it looks cool and is beneficial on a race course. Maybe if my roads were smoother...



Your experience with the HPDE springs on the Sport dampers makes sense to me, based on my early impressions so far at 11 clicks and 22 clicks. I have the same feeling that the Sport valving has more adjustment room for softer springs than for stiffer springs, especially since if you're going any stiffer than these, you are presumably tracking/racing the car, and you'll want adjustment room for very firm damping on top of your very firm springs. (I think the adjustment range is good for very firm damping on top of the Sport springs, but that might not be very firm on top of much stiffer springs.)

I wonder if the softer end of the HPDE valving adjustment range could handle the Sport springs well, for someone who wants to start with the Sport springs for majority street use but has plans for more track time later. Then they could comfortably upgrade to HPDE springs later without a revalve. That would be a question to ask Redwood of course.

I've no plans to ever track my M3P, so for me this setup is perfect. If that ever changes it'll be years down the line, after the warranty is gone. At that point with 50k+ miles on the dampers I figure it'll make sense to have them rebuilt anyways before starting track duty, and I could get Redwood's HPDE valving then (I assume) + switch to HPDE springs. Though as mentioned I'd only go stiffer than this Sport setup if I was really focusing on track duty over street use. Personally I wouldn't want racecar stiff on a primarily street-driven car. Nor would I want to double-duty a car that sees a lot of track time...better and safer to build it into a real track rat at that point and daily drive something else. Those are just my own preferences based on past experiences in other cars.

There's also the possibility that as I become older and fatter I'll want softer springs eventually. Seems like the current valving is good for that!
 
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Finally got to take a nice 270° ramp with some quickness on the new suspension. Dampers all at 11 clicks again as mentioned.

Omg. This is what I f****** wanted.

Stock the car would feel floaty around ramps, never quite settling down. Steering responses would get very delayed, any steering corrections would quickly turn into me sawing at the wheel as I react to the car's delayed reactions and mushy steering feel.

Not anymore. That's all gone. The car feels locked down. Its weight feels stuck to the road. The steering feels solid and precisely in control. I change my steering input and the car reacts right away. It felt completely settled and locked in at all times, no matter what clumsy inputs I gave it.

I've never owned a car that felt this level of locked in around a ramp. All 4000 lbs feels pressed into the road. "Buttoned down" only begins to describe it. This is how a sporty car should handle.
 
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@P3D-R Thanks for writing up those experiences. I'll try 18 clicks next including in the twisties back-to-back with 11 clicks. So far 11 clicks hasn't felt too stiff for narrow nasty canyon pavement, it's firm and follows the road but the car still feels planted to me coming off bumps and out of dips. But it's quite possible it'll feel even better on such roads after softening it up!

Honestly I think the biggest thing holding me back now in such driving is the lack of suspension travel and ground clearance. I maintained stock M3P height as mentioned, but even then this car feels challenged for suspension travel, I'm pretty sure my STI had more and that was helpful in real-world driving on poorly maintained roads. A little softer might be better for roadholding in theory but not if it means hitting the bump stops more or harder, I think, but I'll try it and see how it feels! I can't help but think that lowering this car would be detrimental to its real-world handling, even if it looks cool and is beneficial on a race course. Maybe if my roads were smoother...



Your experience with the HPDE springs on the Sport dampers makes sense to me, based on my early impressions so far at 11 clicks and 22 clicks. I have the same feeling that the Sport valving has more adjustment room for softer springs than for stiffer springs, especially since if you're going any stiffer than these, you are presumably tracking/racing the car, and you'll want adjustment room for very firm damping on top of your very firm springs. (I think the adjustment range is good for very firm damping on top of the Sport springs, but that might not be very firm on top of much stiffer springs.)

I wonder if the softer end of the HPDE valving adjustment range could handle the Sport springs well, for someone who wants to start with the Sport springs for majority street use but has plans for more track time later. Then they could comfortably upgrade to HPDE springs later without a revalve. That would be a question to ask Redwood of course.

I've no plans to ever track my M3P, so for me this setup is perfect. If that ever changes it'll be years down the line, after the warranty is gone. At that point with 50k+ miles on the dampers I figure it'll make sense to have them rebuilt anyways before starting track duty, and I could get Redwood's HPDE valving then (I assume) + switch to HPDE springs. Though as mentioned I'd only go stiffer than this Sport setup if I was really focusing on track duty over street use. Personally I wouldn't want racecar stiff on a primarily street-driven car. Nor would I want to double-duty a car that sees a lot of track time...better and safer to build it into a real track rat at that point and daily drive something else. Those are just my own preferences based on past experiences in other cars.

There's also the possibility that as I become older and fatter I'll want softer springs eventually. Seems like the current valving is good for that!
The HPDE springs utilized the same dampers as the Performance Sports. I don't think there's enough demand for that to justify inventorying and valving a new set of dampers but that day might be very near. I hear that Redwood underwent official training at Ohlins USA for becoming authorized to valve the dampers in house. That will be pretty epic and an amazing option for the more serious track guy. Currently they have 2 different valving curves afaik. 1 for the GT's and the other for the Performance Sport/HPDE rates. The car has quite a bit of travel honestly but since you're setting it near factory ride height you might not be in the "optimal" bump versus droop part of the damper. Did you raise the car at the lower bracket to lengthen the shock body or did you continue adding preload to the spring? I believe it is ok to lengthen the shock for raising the car rather than adding more preload. Adversely, if you're lowering the car you can only do it by reducing preload on the spring. Running factory ride height is great for the roll center but then you make other compromises. I had my car set around 365 to 370mm front hub to fender and it worked very well. OEM P3D 2019 to 2020 is on average around the 390mm range. Subsequent to that it jumped around from 390 to 400mm. #withinspec. LOL