Vendor Model 3 Öhlins DFV Coilovers - Engineered by Redwood Motorsports ™

[drpheta]

Good to know. I'll mess around with the stiffer settings to see how they fare on the roads up here. As I've gotten to know the car more I'm realizing I want to stiffen the coilovers.

Also, I feel like this middle setting would've been better for the rough roads. Running them softer was nice, but the responsiveness seems like it would've made the rough roads better. Silly me for avoiding this by intentionally opening up the dampers.

 

[Jigglypuff]

Hmm... waiting for my dampers.

 

[Occhis]

Redwood's instructions suggest 645mm rear free length by default for all listed ride heights (360mm-410mm center-to-fender), with 630mm as a "lowered clearance" alternative for cars at 360-380mm height (i.e. lowered cars). I'm around 390mm-395mm ride height. I did try to length the rear dampers to 645mm but as mentioned, couldn't get them to actually unscrew initially and didn't have time to mess around further, so my rears are still at 630mm length as assembled by Redwood.

Is it correct that if 630mm rear damper length avoids any arm-to-chassis or tire-to-chassis contact issues at lower ride heights, then those should also *not* happen even with my higher height? In other words, only the rear damper free length dictates how high up into the chassis the rear wheel can travel, right? The spring height adjuster / ride height is irrelevant there, right? (At least within a reasonable range of heights e.g. 360mm-410mm covered by Redwood's table in their instructions.)

If everything above is correct, then the reason Redwood only lists 630mm "reduced ground clearance" as an option for lowered cars, is because they feel the increased risk of HVB/chassis-to-ground contact is never worthwhile for cars at stock height, not because the risk at 630mm length is actually any different stock vs lowered. Does that seem right?

Yes I'll probably call Redwood about this too, just to make sure. I was already planning to try lengthening the rear damper to 645mm again at some point. I'm asking all these questions to evaluate if I should do that ASAP, or if it's probably okay to wait a while (e.g. wait until I think the car could use an alignment anyways).

My rear dampers were factory set at 635mm, and as you mentioned, the instructions state 645. So I contacted them and here is their reply:
“We realized we could get more stroke in the rear with a slightly shorter total shock length so you can leave the rear shock” (at 635)
So it appears that the shorter free length = more shock travel

 

[tm1v2]

(I found the right Model 3 thread for this finally, yay.)

This morning I drove a very familiar, nearly 50 mile stretch of twisties without any passengers, almost no traffic, and all cargo in the trunk (nothing loose in the cabin or super heavy). Performance Sport dampers set at 16 of 32 clicks from full stiff all around, which is the setting my wife has been liking.

"Smooth" barely begins the describe the experience of hauling a** over 50 miles of empty, very familiar twisties in this car now. The car friggin' flows. The balance, the reactions, the frontend grip, the steering response, the level of control...it's brilliant. And it is truly a smooth experience. I can't even think of how it could be better for such driving. (Well okay, one obvious way: this car deserves some real sport seats. Also one could go full racecar upgrading all the bushings and control arms. Both would be fun.)

I'll do my next such drive in a stiffer damper setting for comparison. For shorter very hard+fast drives through the twisties I've been liking 11 of 32 clicks from full stiff. Will see if I still do for longer stretches.

 

[dsgerbc]

For shorter very hard+fast drives through the twisties I've been liking 11 of 32 clicks from full stiff.

I run like 5-6/7-8 f/r at autox, and occasionally forget to change and start driving home on those. The front end gets too overdampened at highway speeds. It's somewhat tolerable, but if it's an hour-long+ drive - I usually stop and dial those out.

 

[Jigglypuff]

I run like 5-6/7-8 f/r at autox, and occasionally forget to change and start driving home on those. The front end gets too overdampened at highway speeds. It's somewhat tolerable, but if it's an hour-long+ drive - I usually stop and dial those out.

you need to drive harder and faster!

 

[21TM3P]

After a couple of months waiting for everything to come in and ship, these are ready to go on my M3P…

GT kit, sways, and UP camber arms… I’ll try to record the install and post something up after it’s all together.

 

[21TM3P]

After a couple of months waiting for everything to come in and ship, these are ready to go on my M3P…

GT kit, sways, and UP camber arms… I’ll try to record the install and post something up after it’s all together.

View attachment 853131

Quick update:

Installed everything this week. Couple things I noted…

Ride Quality for the new v3 GT kit:

Dialed in 10 clicks (front and rear) from full stiff and the car handles fantastic as a daily sports car that’s complaint on the streets. Is it track ready in my opinion? No. But I went with the GT kit and it’s perfect for my needs. I had the dampers at 6 to test it out and would say it’s noticeably tighter if that what you’re looking for. The spring rates in the new v3 kit are 70 in the rear and 50 in the front and could be a bit stiffer in my opinion, but you you’d likely need to dial back the dampers to tame it for normal street use. Maybe go with 90 rear and 70 in the front if you want a setup that would be a little more flat on the track? In any case, I’m 100% happy with it and pairing the sway bars with the suspension keeps cornering crisp while not delivering a punishing ride on uneven pavement.

Ride Height:

I ended up lowering the rear all the way down (20mm of preload) and then matched the fronts to even out the stance (52mm of preload in my case). The overall ride height is on par with the previous Eibach spring setup I had on my M3P. For reference - I’m at 360mm center hub to fender on both front and rear. You “could” get a tad lower by removing the lock ring from the rear perch. Which should give you about 15mm of preload in the rear… Then match the front accordingly. Again in my case, I’m 100% happy and wouldn’t want to run any lower as it could create clearance issues with bumps and dips.

Other notes:

I was going to record the whole affair and post something on YouTube, but after speaking with Heath at Redwood, he mentioned that they’re putting together a video / series along with updated instructions so I figured it would just be doubled info and likely not worth the comment barrage…

I will say this much - it’s a fantastic setup. Well worth the effort and money if you want to go all in and put the best street suspension money can buy on your car. Is it the craziest track setup? Again I’d say no. But that’s also why they make a track ready version . For a daily driven sports car that can eat corners and still feel comfortable on long hauls, this is about as good as it gets. Just my $0.02.

 

[blower]

Quick update:

Installed everything this week. Couple things I noted…

Good update, i'm interested in this kit - only concern is the noise from the dampers that others have mentioned when going over bumps/driveway.
Have you noticed this 'squelchy' noise others have referred to? - i'm hoping it's been fixed in the latest versions of the GT kit.

 

[21TM3P]

Good update, i'm interested in this kit - only concern is the noise from the dampers that others have mentioned when going over bumps/driveway.
Have you noticed this 'squelchy' noise others have referred to? - i'm hoping it's been fixed in the latest versions of the GT kit.

So with v3 GT kit, they removed the spring adapter plate and lower spring isolator. As a result the front springs now sit directly on the lower spring perch. You need to apply a fine coating of grease to the perch so that the spring can ease and settle, but otherwise no changes. The outcome - no noise from the spring twisting against the lower rubber isolator.

I actually called and spoke to Heath about this as I initially thought it might be missing from the kit. Turns out they listen to customer feedback and make enhancements to their product lines fairly quickly… pretty awesome

 

[blower]

So with v3 GT kit, they removed the spring adapter plate and lower spring isolator. As a result the front springs now sit directly on the lower spring perch. You need to apply a fine coating of grease to the perch so that the spring can ease and settle, but otherwise no changes. The outcome - no noise from the spring twisting against the lower rubber isolator.

I actually called and spoke to Heath about this as I initially thought it might be missing from the kit. Turns out they listen to customer feedback and make enhancements to their product lines fairly quickly… pretty awesome

Excellent! - didn't realise that was the source of the noise. I also notice there are no helper springs now on the rear, or are they only on the performance sport version?

 

[dsgerbc]

So with v3 GT kit, they removed the spring adapter plate and lower spring isolator. As a result the front springs now sit directly on the lower spring perch. You need to apply a fine coating of grease to the perch so that the spring can ease and settle, but otherwise no changes. The outcome - no noise from the spring twisting against the lower rubber isolator.

I actually called and spoke to Heath about this as I initially thought it might be missing from the kit. Turns out they listen to customer feedback and make enhancements to their product lines fairly quickly… pretty awesome

Was that the source of a creaking sound? And what happens now once the lubricant degrades?
I'm pulling mine apart soon to try the HPDE springs. I guess I'm hitting Heath up with questions about spring seat/isolator removal for older kits.

 

[Motion122]

Good update, i'm interested in this kit - only concern is the noise from the dampers that others have mentioned when going over bumps/driveway.
Have you noticed this 'squelchy' noise others have referred to? - i'm hoping it's been fixed in the latest versions of the GT kit.

You always have the option of the Ohlins factory Road & Track kit.

 

[21TM3P]

Excellent! - didn't realise that was the source of the noise. I also notice there are no helper springs now on the rear, or are they only on the performance sport version?

Yep. Another change with v3 of the GT kit is that the helper springs are gone in favor of a larger main spring. As far as I know, this is only for the GT kit.

 

[21TM3P]

Was that the source of a creaking sound? And what happens now once the lubricant degrades?
I'm pulling mine apart soon to try the HPDE springs. I guess I'm hitting Heath up with questions about spring seat/isolator removal for older kits.

Heath told me the creaking was a result of the front springs winding and unwinding against the lower rubber isolators. I actually noticed a similar issue with the stock performance dampers and the Eibach springs I used to run. It wasn’t all the time, but occasionally I would hear it coming from the front. The stock spring perches are angled and have spring stops to help eliminate this issue, but under some circumstances you’ll get a little noise.

I have no idea if the revisions made to the GT kit are going to carry over. Redwood would know. Just give them a call and see what they say.

As for what happens when the lubricant wears out completely? Not sure just yet, but I put a very light layer on. Just for purposes of letting the spring mate to the perch and settle. I think once that happens it’s not an issue, but again, I’d defer to Heath and the Redwood guys for clarity.

 

[21TM3P]

You always have the option of the Ohlins factory Road & Track kit.

I would probably look at different spring rates for the factory Ohlins R&T kit. It’s more in line with the Track version of the Redwood setup vs the GT kit…

 

[Motion122]

Heath told me the creaking was a result of the front springs winding and unwinding against the lower rubber isolators. I actually noticed a similar issue with the stock performance dampers and the Eibach springs I used to run. It wasn’t all the time, but occasionally I would hear it coming from the front. The stock spring perches are angled and have spring stops to help eliminate this issue, but under some circumstances you’ll get a little noise.

I have no idea if the revisions made to the GT kit are going to carry over. Redwood would know. Just give them a call and see what they say.

As for what happens when the lubricant wears out completely? Not sure just yet, but I put a very light layer on. Just for purposes of letting the spring mate to the perch and settle. I think once that happens it’s not an issue, but again, I’d defer to Heath and the Redwood guys for clarity.

The fix is thrust sheet or bearings. Swift thrust sheets come in 60, 65 or 75mm.

Coil spring twist and turn throughout its stroke you want to free up that movement.

 

[21TM3P]

The fix is thrust sheet or bearings. Swift thrust sheets come in 60, 65 or 75mm.

Coil spring twist and turn throughout its stroke you want to free up that movement.
View attachment 855892

Valid point and I expected to see something like that in my kit when I got it… But again, I’ll defer to Redwood for clarification. If I get any noise development, I’ll make sure to post an update.

 

[Motion122]

Valid point and I expected to see something like that in my kit when I got it… But again, I’ll defer to Redwood for clarification. If I get any noise development, I’ll make sure to post an update.

You rarely see thrust sheets or bearings included because it's an added cost to the kit. Some kits will have plastic spring seats to minimize metal to metal contact.

In addition, the rear spring gets unwanted loads as it goes through is stroke so. The spring gets extremely bowed at full compression and droop. What really needs to happen is a proper articulating rear perch/weight jack.

 

[Jigglypuff]

Yes, let's keep adding on to the cost of the kits that work perfectly fine already.