So maybe you didn’t really get the car to sleep after changing the TeslaFi settings? Before assuming the car has excess vampire drain you need to delete TeslaFi or any other third party app communicating with the car, and change your Tesla password. Then see what happens over the next 24 hours.
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Since I really, really like the Teslafi data, I've left it for now to see how it changes with the new settings (so far, it's considerably better, although still about 10 miles per day). I might wait to see what V9 brings in the energy data to decide what to do.
BrandonLive
MS LR (refresh) Blue/Black/21s/FSD
How did you determine that last part? Just watching it go down one mile in the indicator after 1.5 hours doesn’t really help, since you don’t know how close it was to the boundary when you started. If you saw a second mile disappear after another 1.5 hours, that would be a stronger indication of a problem.
SageBrush
REJECT Fascism
I'm cautiously optimistic that my vampire drain is 1-2 miles a day. I'll wait for a 2-3 day break from use before declaring a definite improvement over the 2 - 4 miles range loss I am used to seeing.
Success will be at 10 watts average ( one EPA mile a day.)
Success will be at 10 watts average ( one EPA mile a day.)
BrandonLive
MS LR (refresh) Blue/Black/21s/FSD
I seem to get 1-2 (3 tops) of vampire drain on my 3. Obviously less would be better, but I can live with that.
When I connect via the app it often waits and says “waking up”. I assume that every time I do this (and it’s not plugged in) it causes a bit more drain.
I suspect they’re mostly using PC hardware there, versus mobile (e.g. ARM with very low power modes that still enable connectivity). Probably similar to an Xbox One in that it has a “standby” mode that acts more like a phone (or what Windows calls Connected Standby), but actually still draws non-trivial power.
When I connect via the app it often waits and says “waking up”. I assume that every time I do this (and it’s not plugged in) it causes a bit more drain.
I suspect they’re mostly using PC hardware there, versus mobile (e.g. ARM with very low power modes that still enable connectivity). Probably similar to an Xbox One in that it has a “standby” mode that acts more like a phone (or what Windows calls Connected Standby), but actually still draws non-trivial power.
9erDog
Member
israndy
Supercharger Hunter
I think for me the WORST thing, the thing that made me worry about my loss of range, was TezLab. Their display is REALLY difficult to understand. Why am I shown as losing 26% of my electricity on average? Why does it show me losing 17 miles of range in a day? What is really going on?
Why is it all over the map?
When I was trying to figure it out I had to remove everything from my car so I started using the Tesla app to snapshot the charge level twice a day. That made it obvious that I wasn't loosing all that power while the car just sat, it was going to turning on the heat or the AC before I get into the car. To sitting in the car listening to the radio and waiting for the wife to come out of the store. To sitting in the driveway and adjusting the radio or browser presets.
That's not phantom, perhaps instead of starting to watch for drain when we put the car in park, it should wait until the car is locked and the environmental systems are off. Add a category called Idle that tallies the loss when we are in the car and not driving.
I have since put almost all the apps I had back on the phone and not having an issue, but just to be sure I will wake the car at 8 am and 8 pm and take a snapshot of the range remaining. As long as it's 1-2 miles I am happy, getting the expected loss.
-Randy
Why is it all over the map?
When I was trying to figure it out I had to remove everything from my car so I started using the Tesla app to snapshot the charge level twice a day. That made it obvious that I wasn't loosing all that power while the car just sat, it was going to turning on the heat or the AC before I get into the car. To sitting in the car listening to the radio and waiting for the wife to come out of the store. To sitting in the driveway and adjusting the radio or browser presets.
That's not phantom, perhaps instead of starting to watch for drain when we put the car in park, it should wait until the car is locked and the environmental systems are off. Add a category called Idle that tallies the loss when we are in the car and not driving.
I have since put almost all the apps I had back on the phone and not having an issue, but just to be sure I will wake the car at 8 am and 8 pm and take a snapshot of the range remaining. As long as it's 1-2 miles I am happy, getting the expected loss.
-Randy
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TT97
Active Member
Perry
Active Member
TT97
Active Member
15 miles is crazy. I lose between 3-8 miles per day depending on how many drives I do throughout the day. When traveling, definitely under 3 miles lost per day.
Do you precondition or have overheat protection on?
KootsChewt
Member
I feel like I am losing an excessive amount of range with this car (I'm coming from a Leaf) - I've read through a good chunk of this thread and the manual, and expected I would see about 0.75 kWh per day (~1%). However, even before setting up TeslaFi, I was seeing more like >3%. I'm seeing about the same with TF, ranging from 2-4%. One outlier day I saw 4.5 kWh (~6%!) in 15 hours of straight "sleeping" by the car - 32 km (20 miles) of range!!
I was losing 23 miles of charge a day ( basically 1 mile an hour). It was 45° at night and around 59° in the day. I called Tesla and they said that can be completely normal in “cold weather”, “the battery likes to be kept at 60 degrees” they said. But then they told me to try a firmware update and I did. Now the car is losing like 3-4 miles of charge in like 17 hours in the same temps—much better!
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