OK, so I see Tesla officially says 129 foot-pounds for all of their wheel lug-nuts. And in all my years of working on cars, lug torque has been around 80 pounds. Mid-80's max. And a friend just took delivery of a Model 3, went to change the wheels and was not only shocked to see the Tesla spec so high, but also found that the nuts that came on the wheels from the factory were torqued *below* 80 foot-pounds. Has anybody else checked the torque of their wheel lug-nuts as delivered? Has anybody had any issues with going all the way to Tesla's spec (which frankly scares me)? What is magical about a Tesla that needs such high torque?
Instantaneous high torque from a Tesla requires tighter tolerances. Keep in mind that all other cars have torque converter or tranny that tempers the impact from the engine and absorbs so of the harsh drivetrain lash - not so on a Tesla - it is direct drive and you don't get that rubber band squishiness that you get in a CVT or torque converter in an ICE.
Tighter tolerance is different than actually tighter lug-nuts. But I understand the point you are making. (oh... and there are still cars to buy that don't have an automatic transmission!) Still wondering what actual lug-nut torque folks have found as-delivered?
Thinking I'll drag my torque wrench along with my normal trunk tool bag when picking up and check them right there, before I get on the road back home. Thanks for the heads up.
How did he measure? If he measured the torque required to break the nuts loose that will always be less than the torque used for fastening them. I checked the nuts on one of my wheels after taking delivery and they barely moved before my wrench clicked, so they are torqued close to spec. 129 ft-lbs isn't that unusual. E.g. check out the torque required for various Cadillac models in this table: https://www.discounttiredirect.com/learn/wheel-torque
I never measured my Model S or my Model 3 for "as-delivered" torque. But I have changed and rotated tires/wheels myself on both my S and 3, and routinely use the stated 129 ft-lbs torque value with no issues at all, including on aftermarket wheels. There are now hundreds of vehicles on the market that specify torque values well over 100 ft-lbs, that is no longer unusual at all. There are various models of certain cars that use torque values higher than Tesla does -- Aston-Martin, Cadillac, many Chevy / Dodge / Ford / Chrysler vehicles. The Lincoln MKX specifies 165 ft-lbs. A Porsche 911 Turbo S specifies 369 ft-lbs with their base 19" wheels and 443 ft-lbs for their racing wheels. The old notion that all torque values should be around 80 ft-lbs is dated and dangerous to follow. Always look up and use the manufacturer's specified torque value.
Wrench set to 80 ft-lbs and went to tighten. Wrench didn't click before the nut rotated. First noticed how easy they were to loosen, and then went the other direction to make sure. Hmmm. Interesting. Thanks for this. 140 seems *insane*.
Good info, thanks. I fully admit that I am dated... I am curious to learn how 129 ft-lbs is less dangerous than 80 ft-lbs. When was the last time that a wheel nut system has failed at 80 ft-lbs? And the bigger question... why has Tesla mounted the wheels at under 80?
Agreed, however, high-performance cars with torque values of several hundred ft-lbs usually use center-lock wheels, so that is not directly comparable. Special equipment (torque multipliers or ratchets with very long handles) is required for those.
I checked the torque on the lug nuts after about 4000 miles and they were pretty close to spec. I set my torque wrench to 125 ft-lbs and checked to see if they would move at all and they did, but only a very tiny amount.
Well, what I mean is that torqueing the lug nuts well under the manufacturer's spec is what can be dangerous. If the manufacturer specifies 80 ft-lbs, then 80 ft-lbs is perfectly safe. But if it's specified as 130, and you only torque to 80, then it's dangerous. You're the second person I've seen who has posted that their lug nuts weren't tightened to spec when the vehicle was delivered. I wonder if either there is something going on at the factory that is causing the low-out-of-spec values, or if something during transport is loosening them, or if the procedure for inspection at the service center prior to delivery is causing it.
Torque wrench I use: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C5ZL1NS/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Impact sockets I use with the torque wrench and my impact wrench: https://www.amazon.com/Performance-Tool-W32925-2-Inch-Impact/dp/B00H8A57PS/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1537072122&sr=8-3&keywords=performance%2Btool%2B1%2F2%2Binch%2Bimpact&th=1 Those are available individually or in a 5-piece set.
As another anecdote, I just got a Nov build P3D, and took it to the track this weekend and all 5 lugs on one wheel loosened up on me. Checked the other wheels at at least one lug was loose on each of those too. Car only had 300 miles on it, wheels never off before.
It has been my experience that lug nuts become harder to remove as time passes. I just can't believe the torque asked for is needed engineering wise. As sad as it seems its probably a matter of someone doubling the needed torque as a misguided safety effort. There being no one in the room with real-life experience. Best bet though is for everyone worried about it to keep the factory spec.
It's very important to check your lug nut torque before you track a car and after the first session! 129ft-lbs is perfectly reasonable for M14 bolts (look it up!). I think people are just used to lighter cars with M12 lugs.
Ok, I'm a little late to this conversation but when I was visited by a Tesla Ranger to fix sqeaky RR wheel , I had asked him about the Torque and he confirmed that it is 129 ft lbs