With all the stressing I am shocked nobody considered that maybe it is new parts seating a little. You are supposed to double check wheel torque 50-100miles after having the wheels off as a general rule on all cars. I would be interested to hear if retorquing lugnuts is a standard pre-delivery practice across the industry. Seems like it should be given that we are told to check them any time after the wheels are off and the first assembly would be the time things would be most likely to loosen before everything get all mated together and seated. In practical terms I think this could be as simple as an anticorrosive film that is thick and time under pressure it is migrating out from between the rim and hub. Torque is about finding a little elasticity in the assembly be it stretch or compression of something that stops vibration and temp swings from loosening the fastener. Too low a setting can be dangerous if the fastener begins to vibrate loose. If the lugnut stays on and doesn't loosen further at 80lbs it is not a safety hazard, when it loosens and allows play that is a safety hazard. I am NOT saying only go to 80, use the factory spec, but if all were at 80 and none loosened more I am going to say don't sweat the small stuff.
Quick question... I have 15mm spacers on the front and back wheels. Just curious if that impacts the 129 ft-lbs torque. Should I still be torquing to 129 ft-lbs or should it be less? Thanks for any help on this.
People tend to loose sight of what the torque on a wheel nut or stud actually does... It's primary purpose is NOT to keep the wheel on. It is to apply clamping force between the wheel and the hub to prevent the wheel from shifting on the hub. Higher torque gives more clamping force. The studs are not what primarily prevents the wheel from rotating on the hub, it is the friction between the hub and wheel... That is why too low a toque value can be dangerous.
Anytime I get a state inspection on any car, the tech tends to spend a good 30 seconds with a rattle gun tightening the lugs to about 3000 lbf ft, sometimes more. Once the car is out in the wild, im not sure the spec matters that much.
bugs the heck out of me. Nothing says crap like changing a wheel on the side of the road with a cheap lug wrench and the force needed to lift spacex into orbit in order to free a nut.
On a related note. What’s the tread depth on the OEM 18” tires? I just rotated my tires today and they measured out 7mm left on front and 5mm left on rear. I don’t drive aggressively and have 9000 miles.
March 2019 build Model 3 long range, stock 18" rims had 88 lb ft torque. It's like this from the factory. Are we sure 129 lb ft is the proper specs?
Well, build date 07/19 new model 3 performance sleeper, pulled the aero covers and one lug nut on each back wheel was beyond loose, the passenger side was close to falling off. Weird. Car has about 1000 miles, I picked it up about 2 weeks ago and only pulled the aero covers to add the black lug nut caps.
Good grief! FYI, if those are metal valve stem caps, remove them and only use plastic ones (like the ones from Tesla). Yes, having fancy red metal ones is fun to look at, but metal on metal will seize over time from rain/moisture etc. Sometimes you have to break the stem to remove the caps (ask me how I discovered this).
I always check them after Tesla works on the wheels or I have a state inspection. They always need to be tightened a bit to 129. So, even the SC isn’t overtightening them. Tools: Socket (excellent with non-mar outside) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008XMDSJC Wrench https://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-Torque-10-150-Lb-13-6-203-5-24335/dp/B00C5ZL0RU Extension. If you don’t have a short extension, good for getting wrench away from wheel: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06W2HXBZ3
THIS x1000 I’m glad someone pointed this out. I was about to pull my hair out reading the other speculation
lol. When I sold my last car’s wheels to a friend, it was a nightmare to remove the metal valve stem caps I had put on there. Almost broke one. And on my last car there wasn’t TPMS sensors in the wheels. With the Tesla it’s even more expensive if you break one. For anyone interested, a quick google on this topic will provide you with all the evidence you need that metal caps are baaaaad idea.
Glad I found this post. I took off a wheel today on my week old P3D- and the lugs came off way too easy for 129ft-lb. Checked another wheel and it was about 79ftlb, which is common for many alloy wheels and 129 ft-lb seemed way to high because even in my gtr with 20" on track mode is recommended for only 104ftlb. Highly recommend that all new owners get their wheels re-torqued by Tesla svc before/at delivery, next svc appointment or at your local Costco and/or tire store. I can understand a 10 ftlb diff but 50 ftlb is way too far off. For DIY-er recommend no air tools, a calibrated torque wrench with 21mm deep socket, going in a star pattern, and I always do mine with the wheel in the air to get even pressure on the rotor.