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Model 3 delivered with 75 foot-pounds lug-nut torque [Update: 75 ft lbs to loosen, not tighten]

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It will bend if you attach a pipe to it in an attempt to remove the lug nuts that were torqued to 300+ ft-lbs.
What is this discussion even about? Teslas do not come with any wrench. Make sure your lug nuts are torqued correctly and carry the appropriate length wrench if you want to be able to remove them ($20 Harbor Freight 1/2" torque wrench is what I've got in my frunk).
Someone else brought it up, I'm just pointing out how the OEM wrenches are designed be used. And no, you will not be attaching a pipe to it, all you will be doing on the side of the road would be at best having your foot on the flat end, and at most hopping up and down on it (using body of vehicle to keep balance) until it loosens. The hopping motion will apply additional force.

They are not designed for you to rely on your arms, as they are too short for most people to apply enough torque that way (as the person mentioned).
 
With our first Tesla, I purchased a spare wheel/tire and a carried my ratchet and a 1" pipe as an extension.

3 years and two Teslas later, we live on the edge and road trip with a can of fix-a-flat, patch kit, and a hand-held air compressor. We made this transition last year after both our 3 and Y no longer had the factory tires with foam liners.

But yes, torque the wheels to 129 ft-lbs. It's the spec. I'm fortunate to still be able to do it myself.
 
Some of us bought this for road trips into areas where Tesla roadside assistance might be hours away.
The one that specifically mentions this, and is far from 10" wrench included with other cars but not included with a Tesla at all?

If you find a stubborn or overtightened lug nut, our Modern Spare telescoping lug wrench provides nearly two feet of leverage. You’ll be able to easily remove and retighten your lug nuts to quickly get back on the road.
 
And no, you will not be attaching a pipe to it, all you will be doing on the side of the road would be at best having your foot on the flat end, and at most hopping up and down on it (using body of vehicle to keep balance) until it loosens. The hopping motion will apply additional force.
Yep, definitely would not have worked with my Tesla Kearny Mesa-special lugs.
 
With our first Tesla, I purchased a spare wheel/tire and a carried my ratchet and a 1" pipe as an extension.

3 years and two Teslas later, we live on the edge and road trip with a can of fix-a-flat, patch kit, and a hand-held air compressor. We made this transition last year after both our 3 and Y no longer had the factory tires with foam liners.

But yes, torque the wheels to 129 ft-lbs. It's the spec. I'm fortunate to still be able to do it myself.
Hi. Where do you purchase the wrench for Model3? I want to DIY tire rotation. Thanks.
 
I want to DIY tire rotation.
Great decision; Tesla cannot rotate wheels properly, it turns out (plus they charge you for it!). Buy a 1/2” drive torque wrench from HF or similar. 21mm socket; you’ll need/want a low profile and non-marring socket. 129ft-lbs. And an impact extension of a couple inches - though might not be needed in a pinch (can’t remember); it limits possibility of bodywork catastrophe.

I assume you have the means to lift the car, but you’ll need at least a couple of the lift pucks and ideally a couple of jacks, though you can definitely do it with one jack. Or a lift! There are various other contraptions you can use to actually allow you to remove the jack after lifting the car if you want, but they are pricey (Jackpoint Jackstands is what Tesla mobile service uses). Not really needed for a tire rotation as long as you keep yourself in a safe spot and don’t mind the small risk of dropping your car onto a rotor if the jack fails. But be safe. I like two jacks since it makes me feel slightly safer if they are properly splitting the load.
 
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Great decision; Tesla cannot rotate wheels properly, it turns out (plus they charge you for it!). Buy a 1/2” drive torque wrench from HF or similar. 21mm socket; you’ll need/want a low profile and non-marring socket. 129ft-lbs. And an impact extension of a couple inches - though might not be needed in a pinch (can’t remember); it limits possibility of bodywork catastrophe.

I assume you have the means to lift the car, but you’ll need at least a couple of the lift pucks and ideally a couple of jacks, though you can definitely do it with one jack. Or a lift! There are various other contraptions you can use to actually allow you to remove the jack after lifting the car if you want, but they are pricey (Jackpoint Jackstands is what Tesla mobile service uses). Not really needed for a tire rotation as long as you keep yourself in a safe spot and don’t mind the small risk of dropping your car onto a rotor if the jack fails. But be safe. I like two jacks since it makes me feel slightly safer if they are properly splitting the load.
Thanks. I have these to help me lift one side. BTW. What is HF?
 

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If he measured the torque required to break Speed Test the nuts loose that will always be less than the torque used for fastening them. I checked the nuts on one of my wheels after taking delivery and they barely moved before my wrench clicked, so they are torqued close to spec.
 
The only time I’ve taken my Tesla to Tesla they rotated the tires and when I had to change wheels I darn near threw out my back taking them off. I would guess everything tightened to 200+ ft-lbs. Had to bring out the breaker bar for a couple of them. Never again! The worst part is they charged me for this insult.
I had Tesla Mobile service come out and do my tire rotation. The fellow had a torque wrench and used it.
 
Figured I'd add another data point. Because I saw this thread, I checked the torque on my new M3LR a couple days after delivery. Every lug nut required decent tightening to the spec'd 129 lb-ft. I didn't try any break free torques cuz that's pretty unreliable anyways, but having raced for years and done plenty of wheel swaps, these weren't close to the 129 they ask for. They weren't close to falling off either.