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Model 3 Drag Racing?

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Dragtimes is full of Model 3's running 7.2's in the 1/8: Fast Tesla Model-3s 1/4 Mile 0-60 Drag Racing - DragTimes.com

It's so consistent in the times and speeds, even with "modded vehicles" that you do have to wonder if that time is programmed in. The "stealth" and standard performances run really close too even though the stealth has lighter brakes and wheels (at the expense of theoretically less traction)
 
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About the only thing I can think of is to get the lightest weight wheel/tire combo you can find. If you could remove 5 lb per corner, it'd be the equivalent of removing 100 lb of sprung weight. That is, if memory serves: I think it's something like 5 to 1.

Mike
 
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I can sort of understand that, but your modifications probably have done "as much damage" to the car as the difference in price (in car value). I certainly am not saying you shouldnt have done it or anything, just that gutting the car has likely reduced its value to somewhere near the difference in price between the two cars.

Of course, I fall into the camp of "you only realize any car depreciation when you sell, before that, its just a number", so if you never intended to sell the current car, that difference doesnt matter.

I am just surprised at someone searching for speed, with a car that currently is not tunable (unlike most ICE vehicles), not buying the performance version. Your use case is one where the difference might actually be noticed.
Agreed, with ICE you can buy the base V8 model to save cost on all the extra content and use the savings to buy mods. However, with EVs it appears you are mostly paying for the software program for your trim. If car = M3P then go 0-60mph in 3.1 sec, else go 0-60 in 4.0 sec. ;) A good example is when we received the two 5% power bumps. The real question is will we ever get the code to program it yourself and maximize the hardware potential. We see some aftermarket companies selling party boxes and such to overcome the programming limits. It is a whole new world of tuning now.
 
Drag racing with an EV is interesting because it's pretty easy with an EV to program in acceleration instead of power. The computer could make a car run a specific 0-60 or 1/8th every time, independent of weight or conditions.

Some people have said the Model 3 does this. They say if you datalog the car on a flat road vs uphill, it draws more power uphill and delivers near the same performance. This is a good way for Tesla to create a pecking order in their cars based on price, given the drivetrain is almost always computer limited instead of design limited like an ICE engine, and it gives the owner the very specific performance they paid for. Tesla could easily release software that added 100kW to the power, and the car would do it and survive a 1/8 run no problem. But they don't because they want the Model S to be faster than a Model 3.

I'm interested- do you have data showing your runs getting faster as you have reduced weight?

So, in the stoplight wars, it’s better to challenge another car if the road is uphill? Interesting…
 
Agreed, with ICE you can buy the base V8 model to save cost on all the extra content and use the savings to buy mods. However, with EVs it appears you are mostly paying for the software program for your trim. If car = M3P then go 0-60mph in 3.1 sec, else go 0-60 in 4.0 sec. ;) A good example is when we received the two 5% power bumps. The real question is will we ever get the code to program it yourself and maximize the hardware potential. We see some aftermarket companies selling party boxes and such to overcome the programming limits. It is a whole new world of tuning now.
I think you're assuming there's some kind of significant power level left in the inverter or in the battery and motor that is not being already maxed out. Curious what your evidence is for that. The guys who make the ghost module say there is no extra power.
 
I ran my P3D- last night and couldn't get my 60ft times under 1.8. It was killing my 1/4 mile time. I beat a P3D, due to reaction time, but he was solid in the 1.7's every time. His quarter mile was consistently two hundredths of a second faster than mine. Which got him the win on the second pass. I did show up at the track with my P Zero's at 49psi and didn't bother taking any air out. I wasn't slipping though, not sure how much that would make a difference?
 
I ran pretty consistent times of 7.464 and 7.461 in the 1/8th.

I then had the bright idea to to navigate to a supercharger, so that the battery could pre-heat itself. Dropped .2 to 7.6xx. :(

I have the 1st and 3rd timeslips at home. I'll try to find and upload.
 
There are so many variables that are within the realm of 0.1 seconds in the 60 foot: wheel size, tire type, tire age, tire pressure, lane, how deep you stage, and many more. About all you can do is go back and tackle one variable at a time.

Mike
 
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About the only thing I can think of is to get the lightest weight wheel/tire combo you can find. If you could remove 5 lb per corner, it'd be the equivalent of removing 100 lb of sprung weight. That is, if memory serves: I think it's something like 5 to 1.

Mike
For drag racing purposes it makes no difference if the weight is sprung or not. However wheels rotate, and your memory is correct that it is often said rotating/wheel mass is 5x more detrimental, however it isn't true. It is about ~1.13x more detrimental for a model 3 in a 1/4 mile drag race.
 
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