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I’ve seen posted here on TMC that the battery cost $85 directly from Tesla
I can confirm that
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Big Earl

bnkwupt
Supporting Member
Jul 12, 2017
7,694
15,467
Springfield, VA
I would assume that a reading while driving IS under load. Not true?
The 12-volt battery is not under a load while driving. All 12-volt accessory loads are supported by the DC-to-DC converter while the high voltage contactors are closed.

The 12-volt battery is used for standby systems while the car is asleep and to run the computer and accessories when the car is awake but the high voltage contactors are open (isolated) due to a fault or not yet having closed.
 

AlanSubie4Life

Efficiency Obsessed Member
Oct 22, 2018
13,368
17,020
San Diego
The 12-volt battery is not under a load while driving. All 12-volt accessory loads are supported by the DC-to-DC converter while the high voltage contactors are closed.

The 12-volt battery is used for standby systems while the car is asleep and to run the computer and accessories when the car is awake but the high voltage contactors are open (isolated) due to a fault or not yet having closed.

Yes.

The battery is either being "floated," (a constant voltage on the battery is maintained, that doesn't substantially charge the battery or let the voltage go open circuit and decay) or being charged (there are apparently various charge and diagnostic charge profiles), while driving OR when the car is idle - any time the contactors are closed. As you said, it is only under substantial load for brief periods right after opening the door, when screen turns on, prior to the contactors closing (this can take a few seconds). The rest of the time when the contactors are open, it is under a very low load (less than 10W).

Capturing that brief period of high load is tough without actively measuring the battery voltage directly and logging it very rapidly. I don't know if my battery monitor has ever caught it. I suppose that is the most likely moment where the car can enter a difficult-to-recover state.
 
Hello,

I wanted to share my current experience with my 2018 Tesla model 3 performance and the issue I’m dealing with right now. The car has been absolutely perfect for the last 75,000 miles with zero issues needing addressed in that time. We had a large storm here in Michigan yesterday as I was leaving for work. I got in the vehicle and pressed the brake pedal and the second I did that I heard a loud “electric” snap and everything died inside the car. Everything was unresponsive inside the vehicle and I was now trapped inside the car with no way out other than the manual release. Outside the vehicle now looking at my pride and joy I can hear a weird humming sound coming from the rear right of the vehicle by the wheel well area and my fog lights and tail lights are blinking in a weird strobe pattern like my car just killed itself and the headlights will not come on.

I left the car alone for an hour and decided to just not mess with it and maybe it’ll fix itself. When I came back the driver side front and rear door will not unlock and the frunk is inoperable as well. For whatever reason the passenger side of the car and the trunk are able to be opened, with this I was able to see the touch screen now and the many many issues I had. I jumped the center console to attempt to put the car in drive, neutral or park and I was promoted with even more errors and on top of that the gear selector icon is missing from the corner.

I’ll link pictures and videos of everything to show my unfortunate experience with this wonderful vehicle which I believe has fallen victim to water damage.

The Tesla service center has been silent and has not provided any updates yet. The purpose of this article is to see if anyone else has experienced this and to update why this happened in the first place and how to prevent it in the future if possible.

Link to videos:

sorry for the off comment but red taillights look mean as hell haha. so angry.
 

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