Model 3 inoperable after rain storm

[Bizmarck]

Hello,

I wanted to share my current experience with my 2018 Tesla model 3 performance and the issue I’m dealing with right now. The car has been absolutely perfect for the last 75,000 miles with zero issues needing addressed in that time. We had a large storm here in Michigan yesterday as I was leaving for work. I got in the vehicle and pressed the brake pedal and the second I did that I heard a loud “electric” snap and everything died inside the car. Everything was unresponsive inside the vehicle and I was now trapped inside the car with no way out other than the manual release. Outside the vehicle now looking at my pride and joy I can hear a weird humming sound coming from the rear right of the vehicle by the wheel well area and my fog lights and tail lights are blinking in a weird strobe pattern like my car just killed itself and the headlights will not come on.

I left the car alone for an hour and decided to just not mess with it and maybe it’ll fix itself. When I came back the driver side front and rear door will not unlock and the frunk is inoperable as well. For whatever reason the passenger side of the car and the trunk are able to be opened, with this I was able to see the touch screen now and the many many issues I had. I jumped the center console to attempt to put the car in drive, neutral or park and I was promoted with even more errors and on top of that the gear selector icon is missing from the corner.

I’ll link pictures and videos of everything to show my unfortunate experience with this wonderful vehicle which I believe has fallen victim to water damage.

The Tesla service center has been silent and has not provided any updates yet. The purpose of this article is to see if anyone else has experienced this and to update why this happened in the first place and how to prevent it in the future if possible.

Link to videos:

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[Tam]

...large storm here in Michigan yesterday...

What has the storm got to do with the car? Are you thinking that the storm surge might have fried the electronics?

 

[Bizmarck]

What has the storm got to do with the car? Are you thinking that the storm surge might have fried the electronics?

No storm surge, just heavy rain that may have possibly found it’s way into the car somehow and fried the electronics. It’s the only thing I could come up with and the SC won’t tell me anything.

 

[Tam]

No storm surge, just heavy rain that may have possibly found it’s way into the car somehow and fried the electronics. It’s the only thing I could come up with and the SC won’t tell me anything.

If your car is left out in the rain, that should be fine.

Driving in the heavy rain without water puddles on the road is fine.

If it is flooded or you drive into water puddles, that might get to the electronics.

 

[Rmchrger]

Very unfortunate. Sorry man.

If your comfortable with doing it, I would open the frunk (the emergency jumper wires) and check the voltage of the 12v battery.
Good luck.

 

[Bizmarck]

Very unfortunate. Sorry man.

If your comfortable with doing it, I would open the frunk (the emergency jumper wires) and check the voltage of the 12v battery.
Good luck.

Ah, great idea wish I would have thought of this before I had it towed to the SC.

 

[KenC]

Yep, I'd check the 12v if you can access it at the SC. Very unfortunate. Have you ever replaced the 12v?

 

[Bizmarck]

Yep, I'd check the 12v if you can access it at the SC. Very unfortunate. Have you ever replaced the 12v?

Nope I figured the time was coming soon but I was just waiting for the inevitable prompt on the touchscreen. I have a hard time believe all of the issues I am having are coming from just a 12V battery. I mostly think this way because once I hit the brake pedal the first time to wake it up to get the car into drive I heard a loud pop and everything died like how I explained up above. But man fingers crossed my issues come back to a bad 12V and the rain storm prior was just a coincidence.

 

[SlimJim]

if you heard electric pop it was probably not the 12V battery unless tesla electrical engineers made it to short itself when the 12V battery is about to die, which is possible.

 

[Shelburne]

Was there any lightning associated with that storm? I know this is a bit far-fetched, but if there was lightning, maybe the car was struck or there was a very near miss from some lightning???

 

[rpiotro]

Nope I figured the time was coming soon but I was just waiting for the inevitable prompt on the touchscreen. I have a hard time believe all of the issues I am having are coming from just a 12V battery. I mostly think this way because once I hit the brake pedal the first time to wake it up to get the car into drive I heard a loud pop and everything died like how I explained up above. But man fingers crossed my issues come back to a bad 12V and the rain storm prior was just a coincidence.

I'm sorry to sound like a broken record. Four years is getting pretty close to the typical lifespan of a lead-acid battery. Especially if you are in a warm climate. I am seeing a lot of posts on this board relating to issues with the 12V battery on older cars.

Don't rely on getting a warning on the screen. These types of batteries often can and do fail suddenly. Modern autos (not just Teslas) require a robust electrical system. Any weird electrical glitches and the first suspect should always be the 12V battery

 

[alangold]

I'm sorry to sound like a broken record. Four years is getting pretty close to the typical lifespan of a lead-acid battery. Especially if you are in a warm climate. I am seeing a lot of posts on this board relating to issues with the 12V battery on older cars.

Don't rely on getting a warning on the screen. These types of batteries often can and do fail suddenly. Modern autos (not just Teslas) require a robust electrical system. Any weird electrical glitches and the first suspect should always be the 12V battery

This is good to know - in Florida the heat is tough on batteries

 

[ODWms]

Is there a consensus on where to purchase a battery, proactively? Maybe an online source?

 

[rpiotro]

Is there a consensus on where to purchase a battery, proactively? Maybe an online source?

Tesla will install an OEM battery at a very reasonable price. ~$150? Do a search here for someone that has had it done.

 

[ODWms]

Thanks. I was referring to just the part so I can have it on hand. I have had one replaced free of charge by Tesla, maybe 1 1/2 yrs ago, after I received the warning. But it’s a simple swap I can do myself for the next time.

 

[Occhis]

I’ve seen posted here on TMC that the battery cost $85 directly from Tesla

Thanks. I was referring to just the part so I can have it on hand. I have had one replaced free of charge by Tesla, maybe 1 1/2 yrs ago, after I received the warning. But it’s a simple swap I can do myself for the next time.

 

[Occhis]

Scan My Tesla says that my battery is at 13.3-13.4 volts while driving and 14.2 parked. Are these considered normal parameters?

 

[KenC]

Scan My Tesla says that my battery is at 13.3-13.4 volts while driving and 14.2 parked. Are these considered normal parameters?

Not a battery expert, but that sounds normal to me.

Thanks. I was referring to just the part so I can have it on hand. I have had one replaced free of charge by Tesla, maybe 1 1/2 yrs ago, after I received the warning. But it’s a simple swap I can do myself for the next time.

It's a 51R. I found my local SamsClub has one for $115, but $85 on sale. It's Duracell branded.

 

[Big Earl]

Add me to the camp that thinks your 12-volt battery failed (semi-spectacularly).

 

[rpiotro]

Scan My Tesla says that my battery is at 13.3-13.4 volts while driving and 14.2 parked. Are these considered normal parameters?

You really need to test that battery under a load. A static voltage doesn't mean much.